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Dave76

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Posts posted by Dave76

  1. 23 hours ago, Salish900 said:

    I'm not sure what you mean by this. I know wheel bearings, and we don't have shaft drive, so I'm confessing my ignorance of what the countershaft bearings are. 🙃

    Its the bearing that supports the shaft that your front sprocket bolts to. Generally a big old job to change too, fingers crossed its not the problem. 

    • Thumbsup 1
  2. I seem to remember my bike having a similar smell when new, I put it down to residue left in exhaust during manufacture and possibly oil/wax left on the engine burning off. in any case it went away after a few rides/washes. 

    I occasionally smell some burning still, usually at the beginning of a ride and when stopped at a red light, that's when some chain lube has made its way onto the exhaust. Smell goes away after a few miles. 

  3. Yep, watched the video and seems exactly the same as mine. I have noticed it before but i can't say it bothers me. Every bike ive had has done it to some extent, I'm sure my 2016 Triumph speed triple was worse. 

     

    Still id rather have it a little too loose than no movement and there being a chance some muck or whatever gets in there and causes it to bind. 

    • Thumbsup 2
  4. On 5/11/2020 at 6:00 PM, nhchris said:

    It seems logical to me that street bike chain tension should be relatively similar across bike models and brands.

    I mean why not?  A chain is a chain is a chain. Running between a primary cog and rear gear ring on a Yamaha, Duc, Kawai or Honda really makes no difference to the chain itself right?

    WRT FJs: An MC Garage video on the Motorcyclist Mag website dealt specifically with the 5-15 Yamaha chain spec. In it Ari Hemming said that was waaaay too tight for any chain and could potentially cause damage.  In his experience around 40 was what it should be regardless of what Yamaha specd.

    Set the tighter spec on the center stand there is no slack with compressed rear suspension. This can't be good.

    Remember, this is the same company that wants spark plugs checked or replaced every 4k mile and brake lines replaced at 8K.  Both of which seem like a Dealer's dream for make work.

    Not sure if your service schedule is different but my book says spark plugs every 8k (excessive) and brake lines every 4 years. 

  5. 10 hours ago, Hasher said:

    I saw it on a car forum here in the UK and have no idea why it may be. Thanks for the suggestion regarding the relay. I already have one as I thought it was a neater solution than the in line resistors

    I think you may run into problems when changing headlight bulbs to LED due to beam pattern issues. Don't think there's any issue changing indicator bulbs to LED.

    • Thanks 1
  6. 9 hours ago, kaia said:

    Last update.

    So, my predictions were right... I didn't get the bike back until early January.  Again, when I went to pick it up there were still issues. This time, it turned out that the top-case that they had ordered to replace the one that they had damaged was completely the wrong one (not even close, they put a $120 case on to replace my $300 one, the only thing that was the same was the brand name) and in frustration I took the bike anyways and asked them to order the right one and deliver it to me when they had it. It took them until the beginning of Feb to get it to me, per their normal inability to order parts, and finally - A year from the original accident... it's finally back to where it should be, and is listed for sale.

    I'll never go do that shop ever again. I'll never recommend it to anyone. Overall, the service was adequate - but they failed so many times along the way, delayed so many times... that it was honestly the worst experience I've ever had with any company, ever.

    You must have the patience of a saint if after all that you still feel the service was adequate. Sorry to hear your not able to ride anymore though.

     

  7. 11 minutes ago, DavidS said:

    Yep, not sure it actually helped, but made me feel better.

    Oil is cheap, engines are expensive, If the bike sits for ~3 months or more without turning on, I would change the oil and oil filter. That also forces me to look around the bike and potentially spot any other issues that I might have missed if I had just climbed on and started riding.

    I'm not suggesting everyone should follow my routine, just describing what I feel comfortable doing....

    Absolutely, each to their own, I'd have probably just changed the oil in the spring, in fact that's exactly what i'll be doing. In my case I only do around 4,000 miles a year too. 

  8. Ive had quite a few bikes where the oil is supposed to be checked with the bike being held upright and never really had a problem. I do agree though that its adding an element of risk that could be avoided. Least it has a sight glass. My Triumph Speed triple had a black dipstick that had to be checked upright too. 

     

    • Thumbsup 2
  9. On 1/18/2020 at 5:09 PM, DavidS said:

    Oil and filter change is a cheap thing to do at home, so I do mine every 3000 miles. Yes, it is probably overkill, but clean oil won't hurt your bike, and I always feel better running with fresh oil and a new filter.

    Before I started riding year round, I would always change the oil when I put the bike down for the winter, and change it again before I took the first ride in Spring. Now I just change it first weekend after I hit 3000 miles since my last change.

     

    So you'd change the oil in the spring after covering 0 miles?

  10. On 12/29/2019 at 5:17 AM, unspecific said:

    I have a 19 Tracer 900 and I installed the Yamaha OEM lowering “dog bones.” I found that despite only lowering the seat height by 9/16”, for me, the bike went from being a tipopotamus and too tall, to something I could manage. I do have a complaint however. I also lowered the front forks by the same amount and now my center stand is and to a smaller extent, the exhaust are being scraped because there is no longer enough ground clearance.

    I just don’t understand why the seat height, on the lowest setting, is so damn tall. This isn’t an adventure bike. The rear subframe geometry should/could have have been designed to accommodate a lowered seat height without compromising ground clearance. For me, it is nearly a fatal flaw of an otherwise perfect bike. I’ve  been riding 35 years and I understand under perfect conditions I can keep the bike on the rubber, but I don’t live in a perfect world and I want to have complete control at all times.

    Except for being way too tall, OEM mirrors that suck balls and a windscreen that blasts turbulent air directly at my helmet, I love my tracer but the excessive height is by far the most difficult/expensive/impossible problem to solve. I should have sprung for the Ninja 1000.

    The Ninja 1000 isn't without problems either. 2 fellas i know have had gearbox problems and reading the net they're not on their own. Just wondering how tall are you? Im thinking about getting the comfort seat to make my GT a little taller, I'm a little under 6ft 5 though. Because of that there's lots of bikes i will never own cause they feel too small. 

  11. 31 minutes ago, Mission360 said:

    I really wouldn't be paying a premium just for the name on the pipe! I have just put an SP Engineering full system on for much less than half the price of an Akra and I can say it sounds sublime, especially when quickshifting! I had one on my Suzuki GSX S750 and it was enough to make me put one on the Tracer. Take a look. https://www.spengineering.co.uk/yamaha-mt09-tracer-900-15-19-round-carbon-outlet-diabolus-xls-carbon-fibre-exhaust-full-system.html.

    I appreciate there will be those that say with the Akra it's not just the name on the pipe, however it certainly isn''t triple the exhaust over the SP!

     

     

    Have you got a pic of the exhaust fitted please? and does it fit ok with the centre stand?

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