RD52

Oil and filter, set of Dunlop Road Smart IV's mounted.

Used the Rabaconda tire tool for the first time, it worked really well.

4 hours ago, sandman900 said:

As long as I'm doing an oil change, I'd like peace of mind and safety wire the factory oil drain (along with new crush washer). I already safety wire my oil filter with a hose clamp around it's circumference. I don't like or trust aftermarket drilled alloy race bolts- anyone else do this?

There's no need, a properly tightened bolt isn't going anywhere. But no harm in doing it if you want to.

On 10/27/2023 at 7:37 AM, Mrtwisty said:

Preach. Single sided swingers are excellent. Make chains easier if you have to have one.

I've owned two SSA bikes (848 and a Multi) and didn't find anything about chain maintenance easier on them. 

On 10/27/2023 at 4:55 PM, arthur said:

Hi,

. Good day to you!

Well my seasonal job ended today, and I need something to do

I would just like to know if there are any threads that people would particularly recommend  regarding putting another- better rear shock in from another bike, or threads that discuss front suspension upgrades.

I don't mind reading through all the threads, but in the past I've found that one are two threads are outstanding.

Thank you

 

2015 FJ09  8000ish Kms

Finding a shock from another bike that will be an improvement is difficult.

A shock needs 3 things in order for it to be better.

It has to fit. Right type of mounts both top and bottom, and the reservoir and/or preload adjuster have to fit in the space available. 

The spring rate has to be in the ball park. The Tracer shock spring is very soft (at least on my 2020, and I'm only 165lbs) so I'm thinking about 30% stiffer, at a minumum.

The length has to be right. And "right" doesn't necessarily mean "the same as stock". This is what most people miss, shock length is a crucial parameter in chassis geometry. And because of the linkage ratio magnifying things, even small differences are important. 1mm can be felt on a race bike, 3mm the average street rider will notice, 6-7 is a big change. Most street bikes will handle better with a slighter longer rear shock, but there are exceptions. 

Good aftermarket shocks are expensive, but if you want a combination of comfort and handling they're likely your only option.

5 hours ago, arthur said:

Thank you to all,

 

I looked on progressive website - interesting stuff - they have a 25mm lower rear spring which presumably drops the back end down 15mm or so. 95 euros is affordable too (for the rear shock). Actually, although I have owned 15 motorbikes or so, I am least comfortable on this one partly because how high it is (I've dropped the front 7mm) so the idea of my bike sitting a little lower is very appealing..

 

 

when you say you put a progressive spring in - I'm guessing you are talking about the front..? Racetech states the stock is 0.70kg/mm, and that I should go with 0.93 = I have to choose between 0.90, and 0.95

I'm thinking of 0.90 because 95% of the time I am riding solo without luggage...

 

Thank you all

 

 

Luggage and passenger weight don't play into the fork spring rate very much, all that weight is over the rear axle.

Go with 0.95s

41 minutes ago, ItsTracerTime said:

I have a pair of Klim Kodiak on the way from eBay.. hopefully they fit over my boots

Please let us know how they work out.

Oh man, that truly sucks. Is the dealership going to do anything for you?? They made a profit on the sale to you, at a minimum they should refund you that piece.

11 hours ago, ItsTracerTime said:

Has anyone had success with something like an REI Xerodry GTX full zip or similar hiking gear?

Can't tell for sure, but it looks to me like the side zips don't go up far enough to make putting them on over boots very easy.

That's one of my key requirements for rain pants, they have to be quick and easy to get on road-side.

50 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

...I could have bought a Corvette convertible or a Porsche Boxster but the simple easy to maintain Miata is perfect for me.

Some years back I had an endurance racing teammate who's day job was as an auto test driver for Bridgestone/Firestone, at their big track in west Texas. He got to drive everything, from Ferraris/Lambos down to Geo Metros. He always said that a Miata was the most fun car to drive.

How about a Ninja 1000SX? I was torn between that and the Tracer, and if I had found good used Ninja available before the Tracer I might have gone that route.

2 hours ago, Xstoff said:

Well, I don't know if that would compare to the VFR... but, I'm thinking about a test drive of a Kawi H2 SX/SXSE...

That could be the fastest and most comfortable way to lose a driver's license...

That's a very cool bike, but the riding position is quite a bit sportier than any of the other bikes mentioned.

13 hours ago, Yaman said:

Yesterday i put on handguard extension , they work , put airflow over the hands , also put on tail tidy with euro pumpkins with red and amber led bulb so now i have 3 brakelights. 

What brand are those handguard extensions??

3 hours ago, Old Bob said:

I have a still new set of 2020 tracer bags with liners for sale. $500

Bob

Thanks, but my stock Tracer bags are fine.

Thanks guys, appreciate the info.

Wondering what years, if any, of the FJR1300 saddlebags are a direct fit on a 2020 Tracer GT?

Looking for some more capacity. I know about the cover swap, and may do that, but if the whole bag can be used I'll try to find a set of FJR bags on ebay first.

TIA

3 hours ago, kilo3 said:

I learned quickly I am no longer 16 years old, I'm about 1/4 speed through my old woods trails and I still have every inch/corner/rock memorized. 40's going to hurt next year...

HAA!! Wait 'til you hit 60!! 

32 minutes ago, Ride365 said:

Did you not have the handlebars locked where it was parked?

Don't know about this incident specifically, but a common way to steal bikes is 3-4 guys in a truck or van. Bike gets picked up, thrown in and driven off. 30 secs and it's gone.

Fork locks or disk locks do nothing.

2 hours ago, Ride365 said:

I still have no discernable noise on my 20 with almost 16k miles, maybe I'm in the clear?

Mine has 16k also, so not sure what the difference is. Manufacturing tolerances, riding style, phase of the moon when assembled... hard to know. 

Just want to say thanks to everyone in this thread, especially @bwringer 

My "new to me" 2020 definitely has the gronk. Figured it was the clutch, but nice to see the confirmation and all the p/n info, how-to discussions and results. 

Will be doing the replacement this winter.

On 9/18/2023 at 5:29 PM, The Pilot said:

I have noticed a pretty hefty MPG drop since getting the flash done… most likely rider induced because I can’t get enough of how much harder this thing pulls now!

That's unfortunate. The flash having that big of an effect, that is.

I've been thinking hard about having that done. It's not that I care about mileage per se, but I'd hate to take the range hit.

And Facebook marketplace. For bikes under $7000 or so it seems to be the biggest. 

57 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@RD52 - Is that a GS1000S I spy in your garage?   I like you already… 😀

Well, that'll last until you meet me in person... 😷

Got a couple of things done, highway pegs and a new tank bag.

For the pegs I went with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6BRJZM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Fit fine on the Givi bars, and they were ok on a short test ride. A little too close, but useable. I mostly use highway pegs on long interstate (or other straightish roads) runs to give my butt a different position on the seat. Makes a big difference.

Tank bag is an SW-Motech Ion 2. As always with tank ring style bags you have to do a bunch of test fitting to get the adapter plate in the right spot. So futzed with that for a while to be sure I had it right.

Some nitnoid stuff today, swingarm spools installed and chain adjusted.

Also forgot to mention, the other day removed the bar risers that had been installed.

Went for a decent ride today, 120 miles or so. With the shorty shield I like the riding position without the risers a little better. But I may put them back on when I go to the bigger shield for colder weather.

2 hours ago, betoney said:

If you find a screen that works well, don’t change it for winter just wear an extra base layer, unless you need the screen protection for heavy rain. 
 

A screen that works well on this bike is kind of like finding a unicorn.  I really like the smaller screen so I don’t change it anymore.  When fall arrives, my summer riding gear gets put away and the winter gear now gets full time use. 

I actually got lucky, the bike came with the stock windscreen with one of those clip-on visor thingys attached, and it works pretty well. Surprised me.

But I do like the extra airflow the shorty gives in hot weather.