Butrzrulz

On 5/26/2022 at 5:17 AM, vancuy said:

Hi Mate,
Why did you drop the front forks by 14mm? Does lowering kit comes with instructions to lower?
my bike has been lowered with yamaha oem lowering kit. but forks are not lowered.

Thanks

I know it's a late reply, but yes, you should lower your forks the same amount as your lowering links to maintain the intended geometry of the bike.  Lowering just one end (front or rear) affects the intended steering feel which is usually a "neutral" feel from the factory.

Lowering the front end is easy.  Place on center stand, loosen triple clamps, push forks, measure and then tighten everything up.

Would help to know what you mean by "early".  I think 2019 might be when the tail section changed.

Too think, I used to be a NO LUGGAGE on a bike guy, lol.  That was, of course, until I bought my first bike with side bags, then it was all over. 😁🤣😂  Then, I hesitated on top cases, lol.  Now it's strange to NOT have them.

49 minutes ago, piotrek said:

How would you have written it down?... from what reference point? The clicker has no min/max markings. You can setup your solo sag as reference and count from there, or you can count from the spring fully extended.

I agree though... that setup is not great. With a ring adjuster I can at least count the turns or exposed threads to know where I am.

Well, that's my entire point.  I've already adjusted it once, so I have no idea how many turns I have up or down until (according to Yamaha) I "risk damage".

Thus, my question on if there is any sort of tell (maybe less tension) when you go beyond the max/min adjsutment.

Well, this isn't really a setup question per se.  It popped into my head after adding my rear rack/top box.  Now my wife can come along once in a while, and when she does, I would need to make an adjustment to accoun for the extra weight.  I did make an adjustment when I first got it, but I didn't write it down, so know I have no real idea where I'm at.  Since Yamaha specifically states that it will continue clicking after the min/max adjustments I didn't know if there was an easy way to tell when you've gone over.  I can't use the measurement method since I no longer have a reliable point of reference.  This is really my only complaint about this bike.  Would it have killed them to engineer in a reference a visual reference for making adjustments?

2020 Tracer 900 GT

So, just curious, how do you know when you've reached the max adjustment (up or down)?  I haven't really fooled with it and the owner manual doesn't go into too much detail and in fact makes it more confusing.  It states that you will continue to hear clicks even when going beyond the max adjustment and that you could damage the shock by doing so.  That's kind of, well, dumb.  How do you even know how to get back to "0" or "MAX"???  I haven't found anything to clarify.  

I've seen plenty of threads on adjusting the suspension, but none cover my question.  If I missed on, please point me in the right direction.

I have no problem doing these types of things for myself, the issue is just getting a kit with the blades instead of pins.  I don't necessarily want to pay for another lock cylinder if I don't have to (which is how Yamaha sells their rekey kit).  Like I said earlier, I don't understand why Yamaha doesn't include the set of tumbler blades with the top case lock cylinder kit.

After months of searching around and hoping the random box or rack would make its way into us inventory, LOL, I was finally able to get a top rack courtesy of a fellow 4 member (fjrchuck) and a 39 L top case courtesy of RevZilla.  Both of these items in general on indefinite backorder, at least here in the US.

Installation of the top rack is crazy easy, remove four bolts to remove the stock passenger grab rails, reuse the front two bolts and use the two new bolts provided with the top rack and you're done.  While I could have pulled the trigger on aftermarket solutions, the Yamaha rack just simply looks the best as it doesn't have any extra hardware/supports to bolt on.  I like the really clean look (I'm what you would call a bit OCD when it comes to aesthetics).

The only installation portion of the top case is installing the lock cylinder. It comes bagged separately inside the top case with two keys. This is a rekeyable cylinder, but I had a lot of trouble finding a locksmith to do it. So what I ended up doing was removing two of the five blade style tumbler pins to make my key work with it.  

I wanted/went with the 39 L size because the larger one just looks too big on the bike, in my opinion. And this one will have plenty of room for what I want to use it for.  As you can see in the photo provided, it easily accepts my large size LS2 modular helmet.  

Now all I have left to do is track down the Yamaha backrest pad for this case.  While this style of bike is not my wife's favorite for being a passenger, I at least want her to be comfortable on the occasional ride.

Was finally able to add the Yamaha rack and 39l Top Box thanks to a fellow forum member (like new rack) and RevZilla (they finally got one top box in stock).

7 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

Not a bad idea to just move the tumblers around to get it to work.  You still need a key, it is easier to "pick the lock" but only you and us know that.  People who don;'t have a key will assume that you have a key that works like all the others and probably won't even test it.  LOL you could probably remove all the tumbers and be just as secure.  Stick the key in and turn - folks won't know it cold be any key.  

The lock cylinder that came with my top case has a different pattern and my ignition key word even go into it.  If you got your top case used it was probably re-keyed already.  

I was initially going to remove all the tumblers, but since only two were "off" I went that way.  It's strange that you can find pin style tumbler kits easily, but I've only seen the blade style come in kits with another cylinder.  Can't see myself paying $30-40 for two tiny pieces of metal.  And, like I mentioned earlier, I can probably file the other two down to make them work.

Well, instead of paying a locksmith or ordering one of the Yamaha kits (why the blade inserts aren't just included with the lock cylinder is beyond me) I ended up removing two of the blades to make my ignition key work.  I swapped them to see if they would seat properly, but they didn't.  I was a small enough difference that I could probably file them down so I could place all 5 blade inserts I may revisit that later on.

4 hours ago, betoney said:

It might be easier to bring the lock to the locksmith so he can see first hand exactly what is involved.

Well, I did take it to the only locksmith I could find with a physical location, and he said it couldn't be re-keyed (which left me a bit confused).

14 minutes ago, Heli ATP said:

Re-Keyable Lock part number…

2PP-F81C0-V0-00

Thanks, I actually called Yamaha to confirm that the lock could be re-keyed the confirmed it.  I wish I could just get the "pins" since my lock cylinder CAN be rekeyed.  Judging from the conversation with one of the locksmiths, I think they are under the impression that the lock cylinder is sealed.  

Ok, I have a 2020 Tracer 900 GT with factory side cases.  I was finally able to get a new Yamaha 39l top case, and it came with 2 new keys and the lock cylinder (not installed).  I've been having a whale of time getting someone to re-key it.  Has anyone else run into this issue?  I've called at least a dozen locksmiths, but most seem confused about what I want, lol.

1 hour ago, fjrchuck said:

And you don't want the literally brand new one I sent you pics of? 🤥

I sent you PM's but have not heard back from you!!!!  Check your PM's and we can arrange something!!!!!!

UPDATE:  Your text message got sent into spam, so I didn't "get" it.   I've marked it safe and have messaged you back.

Thanks, but I'm looking for the Yamaha factory rack (updated my post/topic to clarify).

Looking to buy a Yamaha FACTORY rear rack.  It's back ordered into Oblivion so no luck finding one on websites or brick and mortar stores.

PM if you've got one for sale.

7 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

If you are seeing everyone talk about a failure like that, there may be a very clear reason why…. An oil pan issue is a terminal failure, and potentially life threatening if you are leaned over with an oil soaked rear tire.  Heed everyone’s concern.

7 hours ago, lolocastsb said:

as everyone else has already said, oil pan is a big weak point of the bike. one of the lowest points of the bike is the oil drain screw.

I've seen the posts.  I've owned around 12 bikes over the years and covered a lot of ground, and have never had an issue with my oil pan or oil pan bolt being hit by anything or scraping anything(they are almost always the lowest point on the engine).  Even on my cruisers, which sit way lower than a Tracer.   I can see it being an issue for folks that have lowered it beyond the Yamaha 15mm, which I see a lot of as well. 

I'm curious as to why so many feel the need for a skid plate for a street bike???  I've never seen so may posts on these and on people damaging their lower engine casings.  I mean, this is not an adventure/dual sport bike by any stretch, so what the heck are ya'll doing??

On 9/18/2021 at 9:32 AM, foxtrot722 said:

eBay $440     Garmin Zumo XT 5.5" All-Terrain Motorcycle GPS Navigation Device 010-02296-00 753759256333 | eBay 

Still $200 more than my 396, I'm happy with mine.  That extra $200 will for towards my levers, lol

While I like this version of GPS mounting, I'm too OCD and would have to remove the adjuster and mill the space flat so the washer would lay down.  It would drive me bonkers having that washer not laying flat, lol.

What kind of movement are you talking about?  

I've found most aftermarket levers do have a little more play, but I assume that's a byproduct of the quick adjustment feature (slightly loose tolerances=easier/quicker adjustment).  Most of mine have been easily adjustable when riding, try that with the stock adjustable brake lever, lol. 

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

And the Reax / Oxford rings look like and appear could dig into your hand like a  wood auger bit...  No?

 

If you cut yourself on the tank ring, you're trying waaaaaay too hard!!  lol  🤣🤣🤣

16 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

That tank ring looks identical to the Oxford ring on my 900GT.

It is indeed.  I believe that's who makes these for Cycle Gear.  In fact, they are currently carrying Oxford branded rings since their Reax branded ones are in short supply (figure that one out).

I picked up a Reax Atlas tankbag for my 2020 Tracer 900 GT.   With the small metal area that is exposed on our tanks, bag size/shape is limited for magnetic bags and I am not a fan of strapping a bag to the tank.  On my previous bikes I have used SW Motech's quick release system with the Micro tank bag and loved it.  Came across the Reax system at Cycle Gear and it looked pretty good and was much cheaper to boot.

The mounting ring is a much more attractive piece of hardware when compared to the SW Motech mount.  Barely noticeable, IMO.

The bag itself is good for my purposes, which is a place for my phone, keys, wallet and maybe a bottle of water and a snack.  It does not expand.  Now, unlike the SW Motech bags, the mounting system does take up interior space.  Aside from the main compartment, there is a zippered pocket in the lid, which also features a space for your phone with a clear window.  So, if you need a lot of space, they do offer a larger bag, but I do not how how it would fit/look.

Installation and removal is a snap.  Just slide the lever on the right hand side to open up the receiver and let go once in place.  There is no locking mechanism.

One final note, my bars have a 3/4" rise/pullback and the bag does not interfere with full lock.  If you have something more aggressive than that, it may interfere.  Stock bars should have no issues.

Edited to add a pic of what I would typically carry:

Added the Reax Atlas Speedlock tank bag.  It's Cycle Gears version of a quick release gas tank filler attached bag.