Bernard

15 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 

A TPS isn't difficult to replace, if it doesn't need to be calibrated or installed under warranty, can't you do-it-yourself?

 I finally after 7 months did get some therapy this last Monday

 The longest I'd ever gone in almost 50 years

 And everything I did over the Winter to prep for Spring which passed to summer seemed to function as desired, a veritable magic carpet ride!

 

 

Yep, just need to wait on the part to ship from the backorder in a month. The big pain for me is going to be finding a suitable way to access the screws to replace. I'm hoping a small ratchet will be able to wiggle itself in the crevice but it will be a right fit. Looks like the frame is blocking the exterior access sadly.

Hi all, just sending a quick update since a bit has changed since my original post. I got a check engine light some time ago and checked the code thrown by the ECU was related to the TPS. I checked the TPS with a voltmeter to see the resistance readings were jumping around quite a bit when throttle bodies were being opened...

Ordered a replacement TPS but the estimated ship date continually is being pushed back (should have been shipped earlier this week). Contacted a number of places to learn there is a nationwide (USA) backorder on the part (B3L-85885-00-00). The one place who did provide a time estimate was August 21st... oof. It seems silly for me to trade the bike in without giving this a shot first but here come's that anticipated wait time a shop would have needed to provide all the same. Super bummed not having my two wheeled therapy for a while yet.

Hope everyone else has been well and enjoying some (hopefully) flaw-free rides! I will return eventually and keep you all posted with any updates.

3 hours ago, stevesweetz said:

I was on the 6th day of a 7 day solo touring trip from the PA to NC.  Travelling back north on the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia.  There was a line of 4 cars bunched up from a slow car in the lead.  There was a legal passing zone coming up, but also roads to turn off to the right and left. I made the stupid decision (driven by fatigue, annoyance, and a desire to get to the last night of hotel stay ASAP) to pass the whole line of traffic and I initiated the pass a few dozen feet before the passing zone actually began. One of the cars in the line of traffic ahead pulled out to make a left turn.  I tried to avoid, but they clipped the right rear of my bike.  That pushed the rear tire out to the left, causing the bike to go down on the right; I hit the road hard on my right side.

6 broken ribs, broken clavicle, fractured scapula, partially collapsed lung.  Could have been a lot worse if I wasn't wearing gear, but boy are broken ribs painful.  5 days in hospital including surgery to put a metal plate on my clavicle.

Bike took less damage that I did. Brand new 2022 Tracer 9 GT had 1000 miles on it when I started, had just shy of 2900 when I crashed.  I only saw pictures of it (it's still in VA pending insurance appraisal, family brought me straight back home to PA after being discharged from the hospital) and it's definitely repairable, but insurance appraiser said it's likely to be totaled anyway.  He said with parts availability and shop rates being what they are now, it usually ends up costing less for them to sell the bike at auction and pay out the market value to the owner, rather than repair it.  OK by me, I'm definitely done riding this year and don't want to have to deal with the bike along with everything else.

I don't know if I'm done riding entirely, but I might be done with touring.  It kills me that it was mostly my fault.  Stupid, stupid choice on my part driven by of multiple long days of riding and getting annoyed at slow traffic and I don't know if I can trust myself not to do it again once I get my confidence back.  In a year or two if I decided to keep riding, I think I'm going to get something small and just enjoy day rides around my area.  I'm far more chill when I'm out on a weekend ride.

Anyway, peace out for now brothers.

PS One useful thing to report - I did the seat slope mod before going on this trip and it made the stock seat completely tolerable for me for multiple ~300 mile days.

Rest up and get well soon brother. So long as we have tomorrow to look forward to, there will always be a way to enjoy what little we have left. It's easy to become complacent especially after so many miles and on longer trips. If/when you do get back on two wheels, PA still has plenty to offer and much enjoyment ahead. One day at a time.

11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I found one, he has not only a very well equipped shop but it also has HVAC.

And his rates are reasonable, when he feels like working. 

Biggest issue is the trip to get there is a bit of a hike.

From my house to his shop is almost 45 feet!

 

Thanks! I'll be there in 12 hours and will bring some refreshments of sorts. I can't stand to be out working in the heat anymore. Pretty sure I'm making careless mistakes and causing myself more issues as a result. Going to see if I can get a dealer to look at it soon and hold me while I cry, haha.

Thanks Kenny, I was received some info regarding the redline colorway... Mine is Vivid Red Solid K (VRSK). A touch-up kit can be purchased from the following link, woohoo! https://scratcheshappen.com/shop/uncategorized/yamaha-redline-1772-vrsk/

1 hour ago, Heli ATP said:

Don't seem to be much out there in the way of touch up paint for the Red 9GT. What is the color code? I have a tank pad that will cover your ding if it is in the center of the tank? It's probably the size of a CD case. Yours if you like.

 

Thanks! Unfortunately this is outside the center tank pad area and I already have a small grip in place too. Quick picture below... I know it's super minor but I'd hate for it to turn into something bigger. Will definitely check the paint code as it should be a much easier time to find the paint match. Clearly I'm not thinking well, lol.

As for the black trim around the ignition... it's a $15 part so I may experiment a bit to see what I can do... then later replace if it really bothers me.

Rather quick update since I think I MAY have found the source of my issue. I read a thread on the forum when researching the throttle body sync and as a result I chose to leave the hoses connected afterwards for future checkups without a ton of disassembly. Was starting to inspect for any obvious leaks and spraying some WD-40 when I saw the hose was disconnected off the far left nipple. Reconnected and idled in my driveway without any stuttering so far. Added a ziptie to see if it'll hold but may be in for another disassembly to put on clamps (not sure why I neglected this in the first place).

I also removed a bit of oil despite knowing I put in the appropriate amount. Same ordeal, I've read some folks leave their oil to drip overnight whereas I tend to wait till it slows down to a slow drip. Sight glass I recall always seeing completely over the top and reading here points to it being normal.

Going to cool off for a bit then test ride again. Fingers are crossed!

4 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

Wow! Your highway pegs are almost dragging! Work gear is tough to pack. At my old job, my 14" laptop fit inside the OE side case. My new job's 15" laptop barely fits at a weird angle and nothing will fit with it. 

Ha, I barely scraped feeler pegs on my second run at the dragon. I realized part of my disdain for the factory BattleAx tires was due to squaring them off a bit which caused much of my angst with handling. Mounted a spare set of PR5's I had recently and needed to remind myself just how 'squirrely' feeling a proper tire profile can be. Very confidence inspiring having a decent set of shoes!

And I'd be lucky to get a laptop into a sidecase but can imagine trying to cram one in and being worried about what else goes in with it. Since I'm a 'one-man IT shop' and handle a bunch of folks who have dual 4K screens, I tend to bring a 4K 17" laptop around to ensure easy access. I'm amidst creating a proper setup with a pull-up mount in the topcase (similar to what police may use). The goal is to be able to travel a ton more and still have readily available access to my gear. Definitely posting some pictures once the setup is complete.

Thanks all. All connections appear secure and properly connected.

I chose to work on this a bit upfront as the dealership near me is backlogged for a few weeks. Other 'reputable' dealers in the area are close to an hour away and this is my primary mode of transportation at the moment. It is still under warranty and will likely be brought in... I just have a hard time letting others work on things at times as I thoroughly enjoy learning as much as I can about how to repair these issues on my own accord. I had two phenomenal mechanics who were my go-to over the years but they sadly closed up shop which is when I found the need to start doing a ton more of my own work on motos. Inspired me over time to do everything from tire changes to fork oil replacement. I won't do a complete rebuild (yet) or valve clearances since I have no proper work area but still think I can get this sorted out somehow. Totally understand the notion behind bringing it to the pros while it's under warranty, just very difficult with timing and my needs at this moment.

The recalls were announced just before I put my deposit down in March. They held the bike ~2-3 weeks till they could get the part in to replace on the throttle. All recall work was supposedly complete and this problem cropped up after 8k miles.

As someone who is much newer to 'going the distance' without having a true home/basecamp... take a good look at everyone's kits here. Be smart, pack less. And then still pack even less. And one more round now!

Here's a picture of my overweight bike at the tail of the dragon. Now I did have a bit of camera gear and bunch of my equipment for work taking up the topcase but still, way too much.

This is the Unplug 155L duffel. I've since purchased the 110L and now seeing everyone's setup I am tempted to get the 65L. I have a bag problem, I know. Secured with some 8ft Kanulock straps for a bit of added security if I had to get off the bike and run into a store.

Would love to see the kit you land on and your travels soon!

Sadly my attempts to eliminate this odd idle speed issue have failed thus far. Last week (prior to fresh spark plugs), the bike was surging pretty drastically and felt rather unsafe at times.

The engine seems to surge, buck, or sputter at times. In idle you can see the RPM's drop momentarily and then resume. In motion it occasionally happened but my last ride felt a bit more 'violent' with surging feeling unsafe-- felt like a cowboy at a rodeo. After today's TBS and fresh spark plugs it felt a bit smoother till I went for a ride and the idle issue was readily apparent. Things I've tried: throttle body sync, clean throttle bodies without removal, fresh spark plugs, oil change, fuel has been changed a number of times from different petrol stations. I think next is to look for any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Then fuel filter, O2 sensor, or clutch might be after that unless anyone has any further tips. Taking it to a dealership for a warranty repair may be needed with a list of what has been checked. I wonder if the Yamaha diagnostic tool would more readily show the issue despite no messages on-screen. Or they could at least further check the TPS.

Hi all, I hope you've been well. Reaching out to see if anyone has a color match or thoughts on a close enough touch-up pen they think will work on their faster red MTT9GT's. No idea how it happened but there' s a small nick on my tank the size of a q-tip. May just suffer and put a bandage on it or sticker (or sticker of a bandage). It's a deep hole, or so that's what she said... Really looks awful.

Also curious if anyone else is experiencing a ton of scuffs near the ignition cylinder and any tips to buff those scratches out? I have my key on a variation of a key-bar which lets me get some easier access to the deep well of abyss. Moreso when using a tank bag. I'm thinking when it gets bad enough I'll just prime and repaint it but always look for a quick wax-on, wax-off repair. I usually don't care about the cosmetics since I tend to ride too often to care and have no garage. I end up rarely washing my balls bike but this being my first 'new' motorcycle I've been trying to take better care of it.

Will try to grab some pictures later today. For now, I mounted new tires last week (Pilot Road 5), throttle body sync'ed, new spark plugs, and a fresh air filter. Buttoned up the hatch earlier today and going for a test ride shortly... I am hopeful to not experience any more bucking/surging as my last ride was horrific. Bike is at 8,500 miles and gas is fueled at multiple locations so I'm crossing my fingers it was just the throttle body sync and spark plugs needed. Haven't slept much lately so bear with me on some of my nonsense and jumping around topics!

I'd hold off till you next lift your tank for service but if you want an easier solution, you just need to remove the left hand cowling up front on the lower end to wire into the spare auxiliary port. The spare aux wiring is there with a factory connector which can be used. As others said, be mindful of how much power you're trying to pull through the charger. I ended up using this USB/Voltmeter in place which was plug and play with an extra inline fuse (shouldn't blow since the fuse at the panel is rated for lower amps).

Ran the line up to my handlebars where I ziptied around the cylinder and then a ziptie to hold it to the bars. Works like a charm for those moments where you're in a bind.

For those of you encountering trouble with the factory 12v port and items coming lose, you can shim the connection with a thick piece of plastic. I had a some around which worked great, happy to measure the thickness if it helps anyone or add pictures of the shim + ziptied usb charger.

6 minutes ago, Craig in Alabama said:

Sorry, I didn't know how different the SW Motech and Tanklock systems were. 

I would say I'm surprised SW or Givi haven't come up with a solution for the T9GT, but I'm really more surprised that Yamaha designed the bike with that plastic piece in the way in the first place.

Probably the same guy who designed the seat...

Cheers!

Craig

They do have one for the T9GT:

GIVI Tanklock Tank Ring for Street BF23 80-6034 3502-0284 270-6048

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334145363315

I've got it on mine and it works great.. the weird triangle sticker it came with to protect the black plastic near the key don't do much though.

On 7/1/2022 at 2:14 AM, Bimbim18 said:

@BernardI kinda like the idea of the highway foot pegs. Are this just universal bolt ons? Is there any downsides? 

I've bought a handful of cheap ones from Amazon a while back and really didn't like most. Biggest issue you'll likely encounter is finding a balance between cranking down on them to secure it in place vs the pegs being able to be pushed around with your feet which at a certain point they become more of a liability than practical. Some folks have used various tapes, foam, rubber, etc. to ensure it doesn't happen. I think I cranked down on mine to deform the crash bar a tiny bit and they're in a decent enough spot for now. No more movement and I've been content. 

This set I pulled off my FZ6 and it was from from ADV Designs for ~$200. They're constantly machining more so a preorder to get into the next batch. The original black anodization has faded to a deep reddish purple as you may see in the pictures. The 'secret compartment' is meh but perhaps stashing a spare $20 might get you out of a pinch. I may just put M&M's in mine, lol.

And I agree with OldBikers mention of the chance they get caught in a slide but having a set that is flexible should help alleviate some of those concerns. Personally made my last long distance trip incredibly tolerable. The final day, after being badly sunburned, I rode ~1,100 miles in 18 hours. I did not physically get off the bike till I got home.

5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Now that I try to think about it I think I used the double sided tape to hold it in place and then drill, it piece of cake without removing the fender

Instructions unclear, earth drill auger stuck in front tire and rim.

Yep, all hardware is included with the RAM mount itself. Can't recall but I may have dremeled the screws to be shorter than what was supplied. I don't think the hole spacing is appropriate to use the handlebar mount as I tried a box full of different mounts and realized the clutch/brake mount was the only solution I had which worked out of the box. You might be able to use it by making an additional bracket between the windscreen position adjusters but likely not worth the hassle.

23 minutes ago, pokey074 said:

Anyone got a good source for a way to mount a Garmin Zumo XT to a MadStad?

Finally got my MadStad. (What an ordeal.) Order showed up and  it was for a Triumph Tiger. 😠 They sent me another and some of the hardware was wrong. 😡 Luckily I was able to find what I needed locally. Took it out for my first ride of the year today to test it out along with a new Corbin seat. 🥳 The MadStad definitely makes a difference. Get some “fluttering” but no buffeting thankfully. Think maybe I should have ordered a shorter shield instead of going with MadStad’s recommendation. 

At any rate, is there a decent way to do a GPS mount above the instrument cluster with the MadStad?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TT8BK

I believe this is the RAM Mount I used to attach to the MadStad. Originally just had the GPS mounted but decided to split the ball to two adapters so I could add my RiderScan mirror just above it. Consider a 'locking' type of RAM mount for a bit of added security.

9 minutes ago, pokey074 said:

W

What mount are you using?

It's currently mounted with the factory Garmin Zumo mount (included with the GPS). My big concern was it flying off but zero issues so far on tons of rough roads. I added a safety tether with some cyanoacrylate glue attached to one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096KTWFQW

Then the tether loops around the RAM mount (attached to my MadStad bracket). I'm fairly satisfied with the setup for now but the Touratech may be in my future longterm if I were to do longer distance touring. Heading off soon for a ~4,800mile trip to the Dragon + Florida Keys and then back up the coast so eager to see how it all holds up!

3 hours ago, Eventhorizon said:

That was a bit more than just a rough patch.. that was a gouge in the road I think. I puckered up for that because I have done that before with another bike.
Quick diversion of conversation, how do you like that 180 deg mirror? I was thinking of getting one

The Riderscan mirror works pretty well for what it is and really helps keep me aware of surroundings a tad more since things seem to pop up out of nowhere. I like to think it has 'saved' me from vehicles abruptly coming into my lane a few occasions but it has been a few years since I was last actively using it. Decided to finish up an old project to mount it on a ram mount and onto the Tracer it went. Takes a bit of getting accustomed to the angles but you could 'almost' feel comfortable not doing a head check with every lane change. I guarantee many will not be happy with it but sticking with it and learning how to use it can really make a commute a bit easier and somewhat safer feeling. I think I bought mine some ~10 years ago because of watching the dozens of Roadcraft Nottingham videos.

And agree on it being a bit more than a rough patch but these abnormalities seem to be the norm near Philly, PA. Between the potholes and random debris (e.g. midsize couch) in the road, there just always seems to be something to be on the lookout for... I still like to blame the tires because I don't like to admit my vision is getting worse, 🤪.

58 minutes ago, Eventhorizon said:

So I have ridden my bikes (DL650 and SV650) with Road 5s, S21, ContiTrailAttack 3, various bridgestone battlax tires and honestly I'm trying to hate these T32's that came with my Tracer 9 gt but I just cant. I had a thing against Bridgestone for motorcycle tires for a while.

These T32's are surprisingly good overall tires. Unless your one of those nuts flying down the road at 100 MPH in the rain there is no reason not to give them a serious look. Take this from a nut that rides 85 in the rain on the highway.

Compared to the road 5s I feel that they are right there with grip in the rain and dry, maybe road 5 a little better. I feel that tracking in corners is a little better with the T32s than the road 5's especially after some highway use where a little squaring off on the road 5's cause a little bit of wandering in the corners. I get a little bit of a "rumble" from the road 5s large water channels when cornering that I dont get with the T32's. Wear is about the same for both, but it seems that the road 5 is squaring off a little more with highway riding.

I dont know how the improvements with the road 6 are now.

When these die out I might just plop another set of T32s on the bike, or go with maybe Dunlop SportMax RoadSmart 4s.

I am honestly pleasantly surprised that I can throw the bike around with these T32 tires, the tires that I'm still trying to hate but I cant.

 

While I don't 'hate' these tires I've just never been fond of of BattleAx's.. It wasn't until I got PR3's that I felt a certain sense of confidence regardless of the road conditions.

Earlier tonight I had a 'speed wobble' from traction loss after going over some rough patch in the rain. This was on the stock T32's and TCS kicked in for a few milliseconds but it sure made my butthole pucker. Gopro naturally doesn't do it the full justice:

Settings were Drive Mode 1, SCS and TCS at 2, LIF 1, A-1 suspension.

Again, not the end of the world but I don't think I would have experienced this rapid oscillation on my FZ6 with PR5's attached and no safety aids. I have a spare set of PR5's from my FZ6 I will likely mount up after a trip to the Dragon+Florida coastal ride soon. Curious to see if they end up inspiring more confidence or end up even worse, will keep you all posted.

On 5/9/2022 at 11:56 PM, Smokamoto said:

You solved your issue congrats, I thought I’d share my experience with a Soupy’s lowering link.

 I also got a failed “SUS CAL” result when I tried the calibration after installing the link as delivered at 150 mm eye-to-eye length (stock is 146 mm). Bike was waay too low, great for flat-footing my 30” inseam however the big boom box exhaust underneath would bottom out, even going up my driveway gutter along with my Handy bike lift. And the side & centerstands were almost useless (no surprise, not my first rodeo with lowering bikes).

In the progress of adjusting the Soupy’s link a bit shorter (for higher ride-height) I thought I’d dig into this failed calibration crap. I discovered with the service manual’s help that when I installed the link I FAILED to notice the correct orientation of the angular position sensor arm, I had it 180 degrees out. Corrected that and SUSCAL is a success!

It took a couple of adjustments with the link to get the compromise correct between ride height, stand usage, comfy foot touching, & ground clearance. Ended up with 147 mm, amazing how much ride height changes with just 1 mm of link length. Unfortunately the link needs to come off the bike to adjust & measure it properly. Not easy like the Soupy’s I put on my FJR1300!

I have yet to tinker with mine from the factory setting but was surprised to hear you had to remove it to adjust. I was really hopeful we can get in the tight space with a set of decent wrenches to change the settings. Strange enough I've not installed the lower kickstand/puck because it still sat fairly well on my factory kickstand + center stand. Thought for sure I'd want to lower the bike more but it has been fairly quick to get used to the taller height.

5 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

Looks like you have a nice setup.  I would only change if it added some value.  For example is the structure strong enough to support the weight long term.  

My Zumo XT has seen way over 20,000 miles and has done well on a handlebar RAM mount.  Like you I take it and my GoPro off at every stop unless Im going to be next to the bike.  Not a fan of the mount latch on the Zumo XT, I added a tether on the back of it with a lanyard that loops around the bar using a carabiner for quick release.  Last fall it kept the Zumo from hitting the pavement when it fell off the mount as I was pulling out of the campground!  Don't run a lanyard on the GoPro but may add one.  Hassle taking the stuff off at every stop and on a long trip may have up to 5 stops for gas and food in a day.  As a trip progresses the memory card in the GoPro becomes more valuable, I'll usually swap out every few days. 

Thanks and I tend to agree... The mount is nice but likely not worth the price for my needs. I think the current setup will hold up but curious if you can share some pics of your tether addition? I recall someone using epoxy on the back of the device to adhere a tether and do feel like it would add some peace of mind. The factory mount is decent but not the most confidence inspiring. Also will need to add some shims to the power outlet or likely hardwire it to accessory power.

Hoping for some longer multi-day trips this year and the GoPro memory swap may be needed. I've got an external HD with an SD card reader built in so I can transfer to the drive without a computer. Pretty wild using a 1TB microSD in the GoPro I can expect almost 20 hours of 4k footage. I run a power cable up from a spare battery in a backpack.

Also just found this ZumoLock which seems more reasonable in cost and would help 'lock' the device in further beyond the small plastic retaining piece:https://www.zumolock.com/index.php/en/

Anyone using a Touratech GPS mount and care to share their experience? I can't decide if it's worth the investment or not. I just mounted the Zumo on a ram mount attached to the Madstad bracket (picture attached). I tend to store it in a tank bag (brought with me) whenever I walk away from the bike. Think the Touratech mount would be worth it or be more of annoyance with an additional key to deal with?

Thanks and hope you all had a great weekend!

4 hours ago, stevesweetz said:

@Bernard

Hopefully this helps.  Forgive the production quality, I am not a professional videoist

 

Just adding the factory installation manual on the locks to this post in case others do find themselves in a similar situation. They claim it should take only 12 minutes to install oddly.

Your video is super helpful and may have me getting mine fixed soon-- too much to work on lately!