redfjniner

Look at my deer strike at 64mph.  250 ft slide, 50 ft tumble.  No engine damage and just a little scratching, that is hardly noticeable.  Higdonian cage with skid plate.  I also had bar ends that stuck out as far as the OEM brush guards do.  They are made of SS and a good 1/2" was removed.  Sliders would not have faired as well in my opinion.  Sliders work good for drops and minor falls at parking lot speeds.

Scary.  Was the pic with you wrapped around a pole/post staged or did you end up like that?  May I ask how much it cost to repair the bike after that?

Not staged.  I wrote it up 8 days later here.  The bike settlement was $7300, including $1000 for accessories, like the FJR saddlebags.  My neighbor just picked up a 2015 red just like mine for $7200 with 900 miles, and a Yamaha top box on a givi tail rack, lights and a few other things.  The bike work just fine and will be getting new shocks soon (paid for from the settlement).

Look at my deer strike at 74mph.  250 ft slide, 50 ft tumble.  No engine damage and just a little scratching, that is hardly noticeable.  Higdonian cage with skid plate.  I also had bar ends that stuck out as far as the OEM brush guards do.  They are made of SS and a good 1/2" was removed.  Sliders would not have faired as well in my opinion.  Sliders work good for drops and minor falls at parking lot speeds.

Why do you want to do this to your bike?
 
Understanding this can help me give you good advice.

Are you sure that the front fender won't bump the horn?
 
 

Changing my first rear tire. I got 3671 miles on that first Dunlap D222. The first 1755 miles were put on by the previous owner. I got a free set of Dunlap tires by way of entering a contest on the podcast, "Talking Motorcycles with Barry Boone". I got Roadsmart II's.
The original front looks great. These tires may be a 2 rears tires to 1 front tire. I'll find out.

Friends don't let friends ride on Dunlops! 

Why would you say that?  If you don't mean it, use the winking smily face:

Last summer I put on a new set of Angel GT's and went out for a ride to scrub them in.  I stopped to get gas and noticed a large nail in the new rear tire, after only 30 miles.  I used my Dynaplug to plug the hole and continued on with my 300 mile ride.  I usually ride fairly aggressively, but took it easy on the plugged tire.  When I'm leaned over ripping through some flowing sweepers at 80-90+ mph, I have to have 100% confidence in my tires.
Some will say they have a few thousand miles on a plugged tire, I personally don't want to chance it.
I ordered a new tire when I got home that afternoon.

betoney:  Please inform me, what is going to go wrong on that plugged tire at full throttle in the corner?  Meaning riding at the pace you  ride at.

Ordered spark plugs, new drive chain,( mine has a slight kink in it @16k), and a new clutch cable. Replacing cable because I want to be ahead of the curve. Question; What's the consensus on replacing just the chain or replacing sprockets as well? Rear sprocket looks fine to me.

I didn't replace the sprockets until the second chain. Fist chain went 14,500 miles, second went 17,550 miles and I streached that for 2K. I changed to EK chains with the second one meant for 150 hp bikes. We will see how long it lasts. 
 
 

This has been discussed before. Going from OEM 16/45 to 15/45 = 6.6% change "lowering" gearing (higher numerically). Going to 16/47 is a bit less at 4.36% change "lowering" gearing (not as high numerically). 16/49 = 8.88% change "lower". A 15 tooth CS sprocket stresses the chain due to the smaller radius it must follow more than a 16T and of course stepping up in the rear has no negative effect on the chain but it would need to be determined if a larger rear sprocket is available (and keep the OWM 16T front with its damper but I've never heard a whine going to an AM CS sprocket as mentioned on other motorbikes in the last 40 years but I guess it's possible) and at what size larger tooth sprocket a longer chain would be required. I doubt a 47T would be an issue. On the other hand, a smaller front may run the chain out of adjustment (at least with the OEM adjusters and has anyone tried one of the AM adjuster assemblies?) when it wears (there's no such thing as chain stretch) down the road (pun intended).

I got a whine when I replaced the OEM sprockets, along with install of my third chain.

I picked up the seat from another poster on this site.  It wasn't even broken in, Lucky I was first.  I have only used it around town and haven't put any real miles on it.  It seams fine, don't know if it is an improvement or not, as you may have noted, I found the stock seat fine and used it for 38K without issue.  You sit slightly lower with the Sargent and it is wider, like it was made for a guy with a big butt, I have a small butt and getting smaller as I get older.  There is also a recess under the tailbone so that  may help in long distance riding especially if you lean back like on a cruiser.  I don't lean back so it may not do much of anything for me.  It seams that Sargent does this on their cruiser saddles, and it works so they do it on all their saddles, but isn't necessary on a sport or sport touring bike unless you mount forward pegs and lean back.  I haven't experienced sliding forward like I could do on the stock seat.  It will be next summer before I put  some real miles on the seat to break it in, so I will post up my impressions then.

Update:  Just in case you wanted to know what happened to these wonderful saddlebags after the deer strike  They didn't handle the crash very well.  They still held the inner bags, and the inner bags didn't get trashed.  The right side wore a hole in the cover and the left side received both the back and the cover breakage and are not repairable.  

So I looked on Ebay for two months for other FJR bags.  At one point I tried to negotiate the purchase of a 2014 FJR 1300ES so that I could use the saddlebags on either bike, as they are the same color.  When the deal fell through, I was lucky two days later to catch a post on Ebay for a pair of 2008 FJR saddlebags.  They looked good in the pictures with a note that one had some scratches due to a drop.  $450 including shipping.  I jumped on it and was first to respond.  Note:  Shipping was $84.  I feel this is a very good deal, even with the scratches.  They came and one is in perfect condition, no scratches at all, and the other only shows if you are looking down towards the underside.  I buffed them up and you can't even notice.  The color is very close to the matt color on the fender and side panels only the bags are gloss.  You can't tell they are a different color unless you clear coat the matt, at which time the fender is warmer and more bronze or browish, but if left matt, hard to tell.  (I clear coated the damaged front fender, but didn't like the color as a gloss).  I'm very happy with these and would recommend the 08 FJR or 09's as an alternative to the red FJR 14's on the red FJ's and as a very close use on the Gray FJ's.
 
 

Picked up two 2008 FJR saddlebags last week and put on the FJ.  Color doesn't match but is close and almost un-noticable when looking at the color of the side panels and front fender.  Matt vs. Gloss.  I will not be painting these (and you know how much I like designing and painting my bags).  
 
 

 
 

Higdonian Cages:
 
After deer strike where I went down and slid for 250 feet then bike tumbled after hitting the shoulder, and the right side cage was damaged due to wear on the tubes, almost through the tube wall, Kris Higdon offered to replace that unit for me on his dime.  He said he couldn't get better real life testing.  Besides the fact the cages totally protected the engine and other parts, thereby keeping the cost below being TOTALED, the product does the job and looks good to.
 
 

 
 

Post your experience with a supplier, manufacturer or dealer that went out of their way to service you.  Let us know what they did and how that became exceptional.  Your subject should be the name of the product.

I doubt anyone has done this, since it would leave the radiator exposed to debris.

The front brake lines and ABS wires are using the back of the fender for mounting locations to secure em in place...

Ah ok. Both those make sense. I think it would look good though. Maybe combined with a dirt bike style front brake line mount and a rad guard? idk just curious.

And, you still need a fender.  I don't think the beak provides any protection of water spray coming up through the fork tube opening.  Would be pretty messy in the rain. 
 

Does anyone have experience with completely stripping the old paint off the FJR bag lids? What paint stripped did you use to not melt the plastic lids?

Usually bags run around $250-400 to have prep'd & painted.  I have painted saddlebags and top boxes with great success.  Usually in the summer when it is hot and sunny outside. 
I recommend that you try painting them yourself.  Paint will run you $45-80 and you can get in shaker cans.  Get extra nozzels.  You do not need to remove the old paint from the bags.  Sand the covers with a 200-220 grit to provide a good rough surface.  Spray with a automotive primer filler, 2 times.  Sand with 300-400 grit.  Paint the boxes the color you want.  Here is the trick, do not try to cover in one coat, do light coats and do three coats.  Remember, you will cover in three coats.  Wait 10 minutes between coats.  Follow that within  2-3 coats of clear coat immediately allowing 10-15 minutes between each of those.  Let dry in warm room or in the sun.  Don't worry about imperfections because nobody else will even notice.  If you use a matt finish clear coat.  Test it first.  You might want to have a gloss clear handy or to use on the first and second coat of clear.   Apply a light coat of matt for the final.  Do some testing on this.  Do some research and it won't be that hard.  Use a grease, wax remover after sanding.  Just remember, never start the spray aimed at the bag cover, aim away and bring the spay across the bag and stop after you pass the bag.  Only direct the spray on spots with quick press/release, repeats or you will get runs.  I would walk around the bag applying paint at the edges first, then spray the top, followed by doing the edges again lightly thereby completing one coat.  You want to get as much paint on without runs.  By applying coats in 10 min intervals the paint will not be totally dry but will be dry to touch and when the next coat is applied, it will soften and meld together.  Good luck with what ever you do.
 

 
  
 
 
 
Back together, minus new windshield, saddlebags, topbox.  Yahoo

The new FZ 10 has the same lights but but maybe the connector is the same as ours. I get why an off-road capable bike would have the sealed connectors so maybe the FZ 10's would be the same as the FJ 09's.

For what it's worth - I looked into this and, at least based on parts diagrams, the FZ-10s connectors are not the same as the FJ-09. 
They're also obscenely expensive, at $125 per light
 
http://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light
 
The Tenere lights, despite looking to be almost the same exact thing are apparently only around $55 per light - at least for fronts.  The rears are $80 - not sure what the difference is that makes them more expensive.
 
I'd like to replace my pumpkins and have been struggling with what to get - really like the look of these.

Save $50 by buying here:  http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light

38,000 and no unusual noise. ...  Not all FJs have this problem.

Mine also has no unusual noise at 12K miles. I hear a rattle for about 2 seconds after a cold start and then it quiets down. I figure it takes a few seconds to distribute the oil and that stops the rattle. 
I have been wondering if my FJ has already had some tensioner service because it has a white dot painted on it as shown in the photo. Does anyone know what the painted dot indicates?
 

Mine is a very early production unit and it has a white dot.  Means nothing.

The FJ will be out of comish into the middle of Oct. Its down due to a deer strike.  I won't get the parts for a week or so and will be leaving on a 17 day ride to VA next Thurs.  Easier to photograph now with out all the stuff on the bike.

38,000 and no unusual noise. Took it to the dealer before my trip at 35K and they listened and it was okay. It sounded better there then what I hear most of the time. So I am good for now. Not all FJs have this problem.

I ordered $2000 worth of parts to correct the deer damage. There's a half dozen other items that I am going to live with. Since I plan on putting at least 105K on this bike, a perfect this or a perfect that isn't going to make much difference, so the paint chips on the tank will be touched up with paint, and the minor crack in the rear black panel, behind the side bag bracket will be left or glued, and the scratches on the front forks between the triple trees will be left, as you can't see them. Those will save me enough to get a new rear Ohlin shock and cartridges for the fronts and a few other things.  

Installed Rox Speed  Antivibration Risers.  I could live without these, as my hands rarely buzz to sleep, but I have noticed that 5-5.5K vibration and it can be bothersome.  Someone else had a problem with the buzz and installed these 2" risers on the OEM mounts and noted no vibration at all.  I had to try them, right?  If I don't like them, as they are making the handlebar post have a rubber link, so they may make the handling vague, I will sell them.  I will give it a go and let you all know what I think.  I also used a 2" high mount left over from when I bought the GPR4 for my FZ 09.  It worked perfect to keep the handlebars in the same location as stock, which I like.  I went ahead and bought these from Rox Speed as they were only $3 more than Revzilla and Cycle Gear, and with free shipping (cut out the middle man).
 
 

 
 
 
 

Hey everyone- Well this is sort of embarrassing ...................................................the axle starting eating into the softer material of the chain adjuster. 
 

 
 
I do believe it is a partially bad design or metallurgy, but also the blame lays with me.

BTW:  I'm going with that this is a bad design, even though I haven't had any failures, the Alum. chain adjuster washer will be indented with proper torquing.   Mine looks Similar.  I'm looking for an after market unit now.

I might add, that if you grease the axle and don't clean the axle threads with a solution to remove the grease, or don't clean the threads inside the nut, that you should assume that the threads have grease on them and you need to reduce the torque 20-35%.  If Yamaha says 108 ft lbs, I would use no more than 85 ft lbs.
 
Reference: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

Dropped mine off last night for the 4K Service and CCT recall. Should be done by this afternoon. Estimate only about 1500 miles left on rear tire. Enough for a few long day rides.  
redfjniner, how did you find the time to put 34K on your bike? Envious.

I do like to tour, so doing 3 and 4K rides is often and then I throw in a 5K to top it off.  That 34K was done in 19 months, so not really that great.  Oh ya, being retired helps.