FJ29ER

Sometimes the pistons can travel too far and bind when no rotor/pads are present, but is usually remedied by pushing piston back in and sometimes back and forth, to re-coat the walls with fluid.

Brake cylinders( in rear drums) suffer this fate but rarely seal up correctly after pushing piston back in, but end up obviously leaking.

When foot lever is pressed down..does the piston travel inward at all? IE squeeze the pads.

So if it is squeezing the pads, but not releasing. double check the slide pin at the top. Not sure if ours have rubber bushings on them but if cleaned or lubed with the wrong stuff they will swell and bind. But either way remove them and make sure they come out easily and slide in easily.

Make sure #9 is installed and slides freely as well. It is the lower "slide pin"

https://shop.ncy-motorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2995089&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2016&fveh=1687768

I would think it would take some pretty crazy hard force to bend anything related to the brake caliper, rear wheel etc.

It is there. Just smooshed. Have fun getting it off. Always a pain.

Usually i take a small screwdriver and pry it up a bit then take some small wire cutters and cut it off.

On 11/19/2019 at 2:48 AM, TracerAU said:

Thanks to both of you for suggesting the fuel tank breather.  I think this may be the issue.   Today it was just as hot as yesterday.  But before I tried to start the bike, I did as johnmark101 suggested and opened the fuel cap to equalize pressure.  The bike started straight away.  I'll investigate the fuel tank breather hose.

Not sure if you are still having this issue and if you have a charcoal canister on your bike but I am in california and had to delete the canister to get it to start when in direct sunlight. It was giving it a super rich condition and would take awhile to kick over. deleted it and it almost completely went away.

On 10/12/2019 at 5:01 PM, piotrek said:

Good quality fuel, well tuned engine, and some basic regular maintenance is all you need to keep the motor healthy. Not surprised that the guy who sells the stuff would endorse it. Snake oil... shelves are full of this stuff.

AMEN! I will just keep doing what I do. Pretty religious on taking care of it. But all in all...an extra $2 every fill up in the grand scheme of things wont hurt if I continue to use it.

1 hour ago, Cruizin said:

Also, I want to add that no cleaner is going to remove the sludge and carbon build up on old clogged up valves in one application. Such test are worthless because when some carbon is removed, it is because the tester was trying 3-4 different brands, and each one of those were actually starting to soften the carbon. When the final test comes and some carbon comes off after adding "brand x" , it isnt because brand x was any better than brand A before it, it was because Brand A, Brand B, Brand m all did their job and softened the carbon and the final test of "brand X' was just when the carbon broke off.

It takes multiple applications to remove carbon deposits. And, what do you think happens to that carbon when it comes off the valves? It goes into the engine, scars up the cylinder walls and rings and everything else. Carbon doesn't just dissipate. So keep that in mind if you have a high mileage engine. There are also instances where carbon is actually doing an old engine a favor by filling in worn out gaps and keeping compression high on a worn out engine. 

The best course of action is to use any brand of fuel additive from day one on new engines so that carbon never does build up in the first place. Any brand of PEA nitrogen fuel additive works fine. 

Was thinking of a injector cleaner machine which can hold up to 8 injectors so you could in theory test 8 different cleaners. 

But anyways I agree with the "from day one". And even using it now/little later/here and there you could in theory keep it from building up to an amount that might effect something.

1 hour ago, skipperT said:

. 

I would love to do a back-to-back comparison of additives to see which rebranded stuff is the same. 

-S

Someone needs to set up a injector cleaning machine and point them at a dirty carbonned up valve with different cleaners and see which valve starts to clean up first. That would be interesting.

I Picked up 4 of them for like $8. They are convenient because the size of them mixes with 5 gallons. So just carry one when I go to fill up and throw it away but I am sure if you got some chemical breakdown of them it would be similar .

I will probably start investigating better fuel anyways.

Anybody use it? Made by yamalube. Was at the dealer the other day returning the CCT i got since I put the MCCT in. Saw a FJ out front and i liked the windscreen so found out who's it was and it was an advisers. Talked to him for a few minutes..he has 25k on his FJ and has had no issues. It is a later 2016 it looks like. Original CCT, Just about to do the valve adjust though.

So he did the sales pitch etc and showed me valves out of another FZ. The intake valve was caked with carbon and the exhaust valve was burnt looking but clean. His pitch was "something too much carbon, lean condition, hot valve=tight" etc idk..tend to kinda tune salesmen out, He says he uses this stuff every time he fuels up and has for the last 20k....

Did say something about fowling the plugs though.

I ended up buying a few bottles lol but think it would hurt to try?

On 10/3/2019 at 7:10 AM, skipperT said:

It’s just the way your engine is wearing. All are different  

I wouldn’t worry about shimming any valves that are still in spec - you can try but may not get the results you are looking for. Depending on the “drag” of the feeler gauge, changing the shim size by one step (from 195 to a 190) may now make those clearances too loose. 

You'll see when you put it back together and recheck the clearances if you’ve made the right choice. 

Normally if they’re in the middle of the spec, leaving them alone is best. There’s an acceptable range for a reason.

-Skip

After thinking for a few I took your advise and left the the intakes alone. Just tightened up the one and brought them all to a snug .152. I will re check in 10k and maybe intakes might need an adjust. I was surprised that I am only at 18,758k miles and some exhaust were in the high teens and some low 20's. Glad I did not wait until the recommended time . Got the Ape tensioner and she purs like a kitten. Runs/pulls way smoother as well.  Except when idling in neutral. Clutch makes such a racket.

57 minutes ago, koth442 said:

Thermal warpage is anything but linear and intuitive. 1 valve being largely out of spec while others are decent isn't terribly uncommon. If you're pulling the cam, go ahead and adjust anything that's close. 

Thanks. Almost was putting valve cover back on before I started thinking I should adjust em. Just I needed 5 x  1.90 and kit only has 3..But found out my dad has the same kit so I am going to steal some from him. Thanks for the reassurance

Doing my valve adjustment at 20k and it has been kind of a PITA. But all the intakes measured at .152. So a little snug. Except 1.. the closest one to the cam measured a snug .102.

Question..Any theories as to why that one was tighter? Maybe just a fluke from the factory. I put a 185 in it and it is a loose .203 so I might put a 190 in. And.... Would you adjust the other ones? My math measured to do 190 but the kit only came 3 so that will be a pain finding 2 singles.

I ran into this when I first got my bike. Putting in the exact amount the manual suggested resulted in over filling and a lot of blow by into the air box. I now fill it to the top of the sight glass. Run it. Then fill it to 75% and I still see a little residue in the air box but no puddles.

 
About the engine sliders. Was there any problems during installation, supplied screw lengths were OK? Any oil leaks while installing?
 
 
- Good question, I had to struggle with it a bit because if you looked at the reviews on Amazon for the engine sliders - they don't ship it with instructions. You just receive the parts and you're on your own to figure it out. Some comments did provide information about how to go about installing it and that's what I followed. 
 
So, the oil pump side is fairly straight forward; the bolts are all the same size and you just need to remove the 3 OEM ones and install the new bolts with the slider (You can look up the owner's manual for the torque specs if you own or rent a tool that you can do that with, but with a hex key, use your best judgement when you tighten it). If you're having leaks, chances are you're probably not tight enough or used the wrong combination if bolts i.e. different lengths.
 
On the stator cover side, the bolts are all different sizes lengthwise, but you only have to worry about removing the ones on the edges, where the longest one installs in the rear hole with the short spacer. The shorter long bolt goes in the front hole with the longer spacer. The two equal sized ones just install over the OME bolts, hope this helps.
 
 
 
 

Next time you guys see the GT try to inspect the windscreen mount system and determine (to the best of your ability) if we can retrofit older models.... one day maybe I will come across a GT to inspect myself.

I could have sworn it said it needed the heavy duty rivet tool, but now that I look at it again, it does not mention it.  It must have been for another chain I was looking at and I got confused (getting old).  My bad.  I was also looking at the Motion Pro chain tool.  Let me know if yours works; I am waiting on a back tire and an OEM front sprocket so I have some time.  Also, if you don't already have one get one of these (well worth the money):  https://fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool 

Im tempted to order the Regina Chain riveter tool. I already have a chain breaker and this is almost half the price of the motion pro PBR tool.
 
+1 on the chain alignment tool.
 
https://fortnine.ca/en/regina-chain-assembly-and-rivet-tool-805199?gclid=CjwKCAjw9e3YBRBcEiwAzjCJumKMe5_fpBCZ1MLLY5ouQwsNVhJt9lxK21OYFqwOh4wSuosqTfbYQxoCabYQAvD_BwE

How did you get the rear sprocket black? I only found silver...

I was told over the phone that they had two left in black, so I got one of them.

OE chain was shot @ 12k miles, so I installed an EK 525 MVXZ2 Quadra-X Ring chain, Superlite front (w/o dampener), and JT rear sprocket in OE ratios (I originally ordered the Superlite RS7 rear, but replacement stock was 2-3 weeks out ). I also picked up the Motion Pro PBR tool to help make things go smoothly as this was my first ever chain replacement. Very nice tool! 
 

 

 
I am very happy with the looks and performance.

Went through Joshua tree last week and caught this video clip of the unusual scenery...neato and mars-like 
 
 

BOOM!!!!!! 
http://fj-09.org/thread/4415/sharing-failure
 
My bike had issues starting when warm etc. It was really weird but when my bike sat outside the other day uncovered when I was in school and it was 90 ish degrees outside it took me three times and some throttle to get it to stay idling. Going to remove the airbox again and see what it looks like in there. Maybe there is still some residual.

My bike is difficult to start when it sits in the hot sun for many hours, the oil levels are filled to exactly the top line on the sight glass so I know it is not overfilled, and I never use a full 3 quarts of oil. I had discussed this with the dealer a few times and after they contacted Yamaha about it, their proclamation was that this was normal. I forget the exact explanation but the heat was causing something to happen with the fuel line, probably forcing the fuel back out of the line into the tank.  
 
 
 
Sorry for late reply but if you have a CA bike you need to delete the charcoal cannister. That fixed my hot start issue. Gas vapors from cannister was causign a vapor lock/rich situation
 

 
 

 
 
 
My issue with the OEM adjusting assembly was it was a PITA to adjust the chain. I looked at the Gilles and Lightspeed and thought they were way over-priced despite there apparent quality (Lightspeed had a recall on theirs). I looked at the Chinese options and of the 2 primary designs available I thought what I bought was superior. Next time I adjust the chain I'll insert a shim on both sides of the axle head flats because the the adjuster axle head "slot" is a bit too wide. It has not cause any issues though and adjusting the chain is a breeze with clicker detents and a fine veneer scale to compare both sides. Very happy with them overall.

Is it factory authorized?

Is it factory authorized?