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FJ29ER last won the day on June 4

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About FJ29ER

  • Birthday 01/14/1988

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  1. If you have the white wire from the skene controller tapped into the yellow or yell/black wire from the led controller it will not work. That is creating a "ground/negative" signal, so thats why it dims(basically is backwards from how it should be acting). You need a "power/positive" signal. So you have to have a negative switching signal in between that connection. It is a pain. I am currently getting all parts required to do this. Hoping to have it done in a month or less. Commute will be doubling though dark mountain roads so I need all the light I can get!
  2. "I used the blk/yl wire out of the LED controller under the headlights to tap into for my relay trigger. There are two coming out, pick the one on the HB side. 15 model." THIS WAS HIS ANSWER IN THIS THREAD
  3. Have you been running it like that for awhile? I will see if my lights are dimmable
  4. Has anybody had any issues tapping into the high beam signal? Why cant it be tapped into at the handlebar switch itself? Maybe it is only a temp signal sent to the computer, not a constant signal..? Only heard of one person having issues... I would rather not have a switch on the handle bar.
  5. Yes OEM exhaust. Yea maybe a little spot weld popped loose or something. Maybe I can convince the wife I need a new exhaust..... Me neither Has done it since new pretty much. Nothing has changed it really, valve adjustment,air filter change,throttle sync. It was worse before I removed charcoal cannister but yea. Starts like it is super rich for a second. like a leaky injector. But never really gets a "running fat" kinda smell.
  6. YES!!!!! Exactly the same!!!!!!!! I wish my bike started that nicely. Since new It would barely hot start until I removed the charcoal cannister but it still stumbles on cold start not matter what position switches are in or if I wait for fuel pump to prime or not. Dealer blamed overfilling on oil. But even under filling it does the same.
  7. So i think im going to leave it at no freaking clue what it really is and being as everything functions properly etc....it is whatever. It is not getting louder and I cant feel it when I lay my hands on any part of the bike. headers,starter,clutch housing etc. Could be inside exhaust and just echoing louder then it really is.
  8. No. It is a very minimal amount of oil on the filter. You can barely tell it is there. My bike still has about a cap full of oil in the air box no matter my oil level. I just relate it to high revving and the occasional higher elevation of my front wheel....😇
  9. If both wheel speeds do not match the ABS will "butt" in. That is why if you try to skid it wont allow you too because the rear wheel is trying to rotate slower then the front. If you were in the dirt and just grabbed the front brake then it will "butt" in. If you tried to do a nose wheelie at 10+MPH it would not let you. By saying "stoppie" I assume you were almost to a complete stop when the rear tire lifted. It wont "butt" in at a near stop. I have been able to skid a few feet when going below 5 mph just enough to look cool lol
  10. So that I am confused on. I just called the dealer and they said it is a 2015 and I have a month left in my warranty. But the vin, my insurance etc says 2016. I will have to walk to the bike and look at the build date here in a minute. EDIT 01/15. So yes it is a 15 then
  11. HAHA That is usually my fix. louder or exhaust or turn the volume up on the radio. That was the first thing I suspected so I held my hand on the starter and felt nothing. Crappy phone audio and clutch noise makes it quieter then it is. Yea my clutch is getting pretty loud. when released in neutral. Def sounds ducati like. But nothing is constant yet. Man, I will put in a call to the dealer and see what warranty I got. I think i only got a three year..which I am past. But thanks for the tip
  12. I am almost there to just let it ride. But it may become my main mode of transportation in the coming months so I figured id exhaust my shirlock skills.
  13. Def not an electrical click. Unless these have some 80s ford starter solenoid on em that I have yet to find. After 3 starts with clutch in...it is significantly quieter but the knock/clunk still happens but you can hear it more pronounced. I thought this morning I heard a rising valve tapping noise followed by the clunk and it went away.... I had my helmet on already so I will try to get a video again to see if the audio is better with clutch in. I feel like it is acting like some autodecomp mechanisms out of dirtbikes
  14. Still does it. Even on center stand. It is about 11 seconds in. I think I am going to try holding clutch lever in and see if there is a change.
  15. Yes they do! So far after two cold starts on the center stand it has not made a peep....so we will see.