FJ29ER

I have had mine over a year now and agree with all your points. Most $$ I have ever spent, since I got the bluetooth system as well, but it is the most comfortable helmet i have ever owned. And yea...in 90+ degree weather it gets a little stuffy and the vents don't do much...but when it is cold....i open the top vent for a second and my scalp is frozen lol. I do wish the visor had one notch between the lowest notch and the first notch. Just to crack it. It always slams closed if i go over 50 mph. And if I have it open with the dark shield closed....it directs anything on the road directly to my eyes...It is weird. I got the matte blue. And promptly made sure i dropped it the first time handling it . RIGHT IN THE ROCKS!!

Warranty is only 1 year. Bikes are not made to be left outside. Especially in your climate. Washing it 2-3 times a week to keep the salt from sitting on it too long would be an answer. And repainting and some kind of protective coating.

Well let this be proof that it is not overkill. I never ride in any moisture and I live in san diego county. This should have been my third time i think. Dryness would be my culprit, not water etc. I am confused though, the bearings are sealed mostly so very little grease would actually get in the rollers. But I guess some is better the none. I still think the bearings could be wider for more support but im no engineer. PS. I love olympia, Sister moved there but after a few years moved to rainier for some more property. So beautiful up there. I always go driving the first or second day just to soak it all in. Little wet for me though haha

Nope. So when you put the "sleeve" through the bearing, it can rock in the bearing. So when it compresses it compresses crooked, so it scooted over and was rubbing. It has only been 2-3 weeks since I looked at it last, so 300 ish miles for it to do this. I do have the spring perch on the 2nd to last notch being 250 lbs with gear/luggage so maybe that is at play.

Here is some pix. Took them with greasy hands so sorry they are blurry. So i agree. Seems this should have been my second time servicing these. Bearings are slightly dry but still smooth rolling. Except the one on the swingarm which i feel is too narrow versus how much wider the mount is. Bearing is 15mm..the seals are both 3mm. and the mount is about 30mm. so 9mm of space? Bearing could be wider for more support i feel.

Thread revival!!!! About 23k. On the clock. Gave my bike a really good wash down and since ive been commuting daily for the last 2 mths decided to give it a little once over. I have always noticed the slight amount of play int he swing arm bushings and wanted to see if it is got worse or not, it did. I peaked inside the right side and noticed the relay arm has a huge gouge in it. The small link arm was digging into the side of the arm. Looking for a used one..it seems they all have rubbing marks from the links. How is this a normal thing????

If you have the white wire from the skene controller tapped into the yellow or yell/black wire from the led controller it will not work. That is creating a "ground/negative" signal, so thats why it dims(basically is backwards from how it should be acting). You need a "power/positive" signal. So you have to have a negative switching signal in between that connection. It is a pain. I am currently getting all parts required to do this. Hoping to have it done in a month or less. Commute will be doubling though dark mountain roads so I need all the light I can get!

"I used the blk/yl wire out of the LED controller under the headlights to tap into for my relay trigger. There are two coming out, pick the one on the HB side. 15 model." THIS WAS HIS ANSWER IN THIS THREAD

Have you been running it like that for awhile? I will see if my lights are dimmable

Has anybody had any issues tapping into the high beam signal? Why cant it be tapped into at the handlebar switch itself? Maybe it is only a temp signal sent to the computer, not a constant signal..? Only heard of one person having issues... I would rather not have a switch on the handle bar.

Yes OEM exhaust. Yea maybe a little spot weld popped loose or something. Maybe I can convince the wife I need a new exhaust..... Me neither Has done it since new pretty much. Nothing has changed it really, valve adjustment,air filter change,throttle sync. It was worse before I removed charcoal cannister but yea. Starts like it is super rich for a second. like a leaky injector. But never really gets a "running fat" kinda smell.

YES!!!!! Exactly the same!!!!!!!! I wish my bike started that nicely. Since new It would barely hot start until I removed the charcoal cannister but it still stumbles on cold start not matter what position switches are in or if I wait for fuel pump to prime or not. Dealer blamed overfilling on oil. But even under filling it does the same.

So i think im going to leave it at no freaking clue what it really is and being as everything functions properly etc....it is whatever. It is not getting louder and I cant feel it when I lay my hands on any part of the bike. headers,starter,clutch housing etc. Could be inside exhaust and just echoing louder then it really is.

No. It is a very minimal amount of oil on the filter. You can barely tell it is there. My bike still has about a cap full of oil in the air box no matter my oil level. I just relate it to high revving and the occasional higher elevation of my front wheel....😇

If both wheel speeds do not match the ABS will "butt" in. That is why if you try to skid it wont allow you too because the rear wheel is trying to rotate slower then the front. If you were in the dirt and just grabbed the front brake then it will "butt" in. If you tried to do a nose wheelie at 10+MPH it would not let you. By saying "stoppie" I assume you were almost to a complete stop when the rear tire lifted. It wont "butt" in at a near stop. I have been able to skid a few feet when going below 5 mph just enough to look cool lol