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keithu last won the day on October 17

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About keithu

  • Birthday 01/25/1970

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  1. Update: I have about 3500 miles on my Road 5 rear (front is at about 7000) and I'm super impressed with the wet performance. I got caught in a very heavy deluge of rain and hail a couple of weeks ago in the Oregon coastal range, and traction was great. It was a mountain highway with sweepers, and cars were slowing down to 50-55 mph due to the heavy rainfall. Despite standing water on the road, I had no problem passing them at ~55-60 mph when a passing lane opened up. Road feel remained good and the TC light never lit up. I'm probably not a fast enough rider to properly evaluate the Road 5 dry performance, except to say that I have no complaints. But as a year-round rider in Oregon I've spent plenty of time on cool, wet roads, and the Road 5s are easily the best rain tire I've ever run.
  2. I see, thank you. Has anyone tried using the yellow wire for HB triggering? According to the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual it triggers the high beam indicator light, so I would expect it has positive voltage.
  3. He did not mention it, but it sounds like the new hardware enables (or simplifies) updating. So I assume the older units can't be easily updated with new firmware.
  4. So I thought the Skene controller was getting power via the red wire, and white is just a switching signal from the HB. Now I'm confused.
  5. Following. I have similar issues with the large National Cycle V-Stream shield. I suspect that a lot of air is coming around the sides of the headlight assembly to the rider. I wonder if some strategically placed side deflectors like these Super Tenere units would help:
  6. So when you say, "the bike HB wire from the LED controller under the headlight," do you mean the yellow or yellow/black wire? What you describe makes sense for a standard light circuit. You wouldn't want to power the aux lights through the OEM light circuit or switch, those would simply energize a relay for aux light power. But I thought with the Skene controller that the white wire just needs a signal (any voltage) to trigger its own built-in SS relay. Weird.
  7. Did you ever finish this project? I'm curious whether you tapped into the yellow/black or yellow wire for the high beam trigger. I'm in the middle of six straight weeks of work travel so I haven't had time to chase voltages myself.
  8. Were these measurements taken at idle? I wonder if the values are dependent on RPM, alternator output, or some other variable. I ask because I have my Low value set to 2 and there is obviously some heat in the grips at this setting. This would be impossible with a PWM value of 0%, right? I've also noticed that sometimes 10 feels hotter than 6, and sometimes it doesn't. Usually 10 feels the same as 6 when I also have my heated jacket cranked to max, so it could again be related to something in the charging system (or a flawed perception on my part).
  9. Update in case anyone is interested or has recently ordered MCCruise: I placed an order for the MCCruise unit last week. The owner Tony Guymer emailed me and said they are hoping to fill about 30 backorders this week. They have a new hardware rev that he says offers improved performance, full CANbus compatibility, and Bluetooth v5. Tony says he tested the new hardware on his own Tracer and was "blown away" with the improved performance. Bluetooth v5 should offer more reliable phone connectivity for field upgrades and customization. They are working on some revised software that will take some months to develop, but among other things they are experimenting with an active cruise system that can adjust speed automatically based on BING or Here Technology speed limit data. I'm not sure this is something I would want to use, but it's an intriguing concept. NOTE - I haven't received my MCCruise yet, so I can't yet offer my own opinion on these upgrades. But it's good to see that MCCruise support and development for the FJ/Tracer is ongoing.
  10. Full fairings don't necessarily mean difficult to work on. My Triumph TT600 - a fully Tupperwared sportbike - was easier to work on than the FJ-09. There was only one type of fastener, and the panels came off quickly. The radiator was on a hinge so I could check valves or change sparkplugs without draining the coolant. Triumph even put a little cutout in the belly pan for the oil drain plug, so I could change the oil and filter with the fairings in place. It was a really nicely engineered machine. The FJ-09 fairing is... as you say, a puzzle.
  11. Great write-up. I won't rehash what everyone else has said, but I chuckled at your comments about maintenance and the S1000RR fairings using all the same fasteners. WTH is Yamaha's problem? I dread doing any maintenance in my FJ-09 because removing the fairings was such a pain. Six different kinds of fairing fasteners on the FJ that I can think of off the top of my head. Come on, Yamaha.
  12. Thanks for the feedback everyone. I do wear glasses. I've been using one of those Clearview stick-on anti-fog shields so I guess I'm accustomed to minor ghosting.
  13. Shouldn't be used at night?! Cross Pinlock off my list.
  14. The teflon inner line may not be as prone to chemical degradation, but they are well known to fail due to abrasion. Dirt gets through the steel braided sheath and becomes an abrasive as the line flexes with suspension movement. If the stainless line has a plastic outer sheath that also seals the hose at rigid joints, then yes I suppose it has an indefinite lifespan. But if your SS lines are unsheathed, they need to be replaced periodically.
  15. I do have a nose cup. My helmet also came with a chin curtain, but it made fogging worse so I had to rip it out. So you spray the RainX stuff on the Pinlock insert? Maybe I'll just try that on what I already have.