carey

Unless the copper washer is physically damaged, it can be reused.  After a few uses, I anneal my copper washers.  I heat them with a propane torch to bright red/orange and drop in water.  They are now soft again.

Arrow full system works with the centestand.

Quote

 I will call BT to see whether this is an issue to use the larger fuse for charging. I guess I could always split the difference and use a 10A.

I'd be curious what BT will say, but I've been doing this on multiple bikes, with both "regular" and LiPo batteries for years.  I've never had a problem.

Quote

 Had not really thought about a SAE to Powerlet adapter so I could dual purpose my BT cable to use as the heated gear cable as well and only have one wire set connected to the battery.

You should go the other way.  Use your Tourmaster cable and get a Powerlet to SAE adapter.  The Tourmaster cable is probably a larger wire gage for heat vs smaller gage for Battery Tender.  At least with Gerbing cables, they are larger gage than Battery Tender.

I've always run the cable between the seat and gas tank.  I use a Gerbing coax cable, but install an SAE adapter for my BatterTender.  When not in use, I clip the cable end to the grab handle of my tank bag.  If no grab handle, clip to a zipper pull.

I use a clip like this;

https://www.staples.com/GBC-3747210-ID-Badge-Clip-With-Strap-Clear-10-Pack/product_511097?ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=511097&KPID=511097&cid=PS:H2H:GS:SBD:PLA:FAC&gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFK8oYJmlPK502urTMj5uW9hO9gzfiP5RZ-TjKtnquSzZ0oxnseEDDBoC8pAQAvD_BwE

 

1 hour ago, whisperquiet said:

I use endangered sperm whale oil when available.......otherwise and most of the time I use generic HondaPro chain lube.  I wipe the chain down every 1000 miles or so with a kerosene rag, dry, and carefully apply chain lube to all 118 chain links.........I don't try to overthink this basic maintenance procedure.

I use unicorn tears, but otherwise the same as you

2 hours ago, Michiel900GT said:

Did you experience any trouble with the side stand after you installed the vario pegs? Was your heel / foot not touching the side stand?

To be honest, I don't remember.  It was probably over 10 years ago that I tried the vario pegs.  I do remember them placing my legs out further, that I removed them after a short period of time.

I tried the vario pegs on my FZ1.  They lowered the pegs nicely, but I didn't like how they spread my legs wider.  

Look for a set of pegs from a Buell, they drop about an inch.  They were a popular mod on the FZ1 and my Tiger.

I tried one of those small spoilers on another bike.  It made some improvement, but I eventually took it off and gave to a friend because it was in my line of site.

On both my V Strom and FJ09, I found the best thing was spacing out the windshield from the fairing.  For my VStrom, I used a Madstad.  For my FJ09, I used a Palmer bracket. I like the Palmer bracket for ease of adjustment, uses OEM screens, and has a crossbar to mount my GPS.

My experience is when you space the screen away from your fairing, the shape of the screen isn't as important. 

 

I forgot to mention, I spaced out my screen on my Tiger 1050, with similar good results.

Quote

Good point and something that I did not mention in my original post.  With the new seat from Terry Adcox, shifting your hips from side to side for spirited cornering is not difficult, but it was a bit easier with the more narrow stock seat.  At first I thought I might look for a deal on a used stock seat for local rides with my hooligan friends, but after the second time out on the seat I adjusted to the added width when hanging my one butt cheek off the side, so no problem.  

When Terry did my seat, I had concerns about the edges digging into the underside of my leg/hips.  Most seats I tried were a problem in that area.  Terry suggested in "rolling" the edges.  It worked for me, and as an added benefit, I'm able to transition easily side to side.  

This might not work for everyone, but my problem was bone spurs around my hip socket.  I need a narrower seat.  I have no problem riding on a skinny dirt bike seat or even a bicycle seat, but anything that is wide, splays my hips out causes a problem. 

Last November I had my right hip replaced and no more bone spurs on that side.  I still find Terry's seat, with the edges rolled, comfortable.

Just to be clear, my bike is a 2015 FJ09, and not a 900GT, so the seats may be different.

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Nice!  Put one in the basket.  Did you add rubber caps?  Thx

No,  I don't have the rubber caps.

5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks Betoney, I know, and can yank the fairing, tank cowl, side panels and tank in my sleep (though the release button on the fuel line is often problematic), it's just a PITA.  I'll have to do it I guess if I can walk out to my shop...

The last 3 or 4 bikes I've owned had the PITA fuel line connector.  I bought one of these to make life easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Boeray-Petrol-Disconnect-Release-Removal/dp/B07RRH7HHP

It's been a few years since I changed my lines, but I believe I only needed a small bottle of brake fluid and had some left.  I bled the system as if there was no ABS and got firm levers.  I drove around the block, a low speed, and activated the ABS.  There was no changes.  I bled some more for good measure and called it done.

5 hours ago, chitown said:

The service manual does call for performing the tests after any bleed. Thus, it's with the new fluid in the system, not for the purpose of flushing. 

Fwiw have replaced all lines, three fluid replacements, and all bleeds without using those tests nor any issues of old fluid retained in the pump. The system is self-tested each time the bike is turned on and you can put slight pressure on the levers and usually feel vibration. I usually cycle the ignition before putting everything back together after bleeding and make sure levels are unchanged and no codes thrown. And another check of levels after a short shake down ride.

I did the same when I replaced my brake lines.  Just a normal bleed, and no issues.

On 1/29/2018 at 11:30 AM, bikebone said:

I put the KTM hand guards on my 2015 FJ-09 along with some bar end weights off of a ZG1000 Kawasaki Concours. The hand guards are a lot more effective than the original units at blocking the wind, plus they look like they belong. Easy install, too.

I used KTM handguards, but used a set of Yamaha bar ends from either a FJ1200 or a FZ1.  I can't remember which bike they came from, but Yamaha used the same bar ends since the mid-80's.

Do you feel all the "edges" in the seat? Looks nicely made!

I had that concern because my hips are sensitive to edges.  When I spoke with Terry Adcox about this, he said he could "roll" the edges.  There was no difference in cost.  If there is a down side to rolled edges, it might be less area to plant your backside.

Have you had time to put some miles on your new Terry Adcox seat? If so what are your thoughts. 

I got my seat at the beginning of the year and have not put as many miles as I would like, maybe 1500, but it is the best seat I've tried (Corbin, Sargent, Sargent with nose job, and Seat Concepts Touring). 
Back in May, I had 5 days of riding, back to back, with 6-8 hours per day and no pain. 

I promised these pictures to another forum member weeks ago, and finally remembered to take them. An FJ with Givi E21 bags.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
For those that have E21 bags, do you feel the space in the lids is not very useful? I did, but over the winter, I took care of this issue. I made a door to close of the lid and store my rainsuit in the lid. I took a piece of cardboard and made a pattern. I cut the pattern out of a piece of luan paneling. Painted it and attached it with some plastic conduit clamps. The "springyness of the clamps holds the lid in place. I also mounted some snaps to hold a small bag with a microfiber towel.
 
 

 
The clamp used to hold the lid closed
 

 
 
The clamp used as a hinge
 

I've had this tool holder for several years and never mounted it on my last 3 bikes. Today, I saw a picture on ADV Rider that gave me an idea on how to mount it on my FJ 0 with Givi Rack. I had the tool holder, and spent less than $10 to mount it. 5/8 rubber lined clamps, 6mm bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts, and a pice of plastic mudflap I had laying around the garage. 
This is what I ended up with;
 
 

 
This is how I mounted it;
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
This is the hardware I used;
 
 
 

 
 
 

An update for anyone considering this mod.  My riding buddies said my tool holder blocked my turn signal, but not my brake light. 
I plan to mount it lower so my turn signal are visible.

I finally got around to removing the stock handguard assemblies, and personally much prefer the naked look and feel.   
 

 
Now I need new bar ends.  I’ve heard the OEM FZ09 bar end weights are a direct bolt on... can anyone confirm?  

I forget the thread pitch, but Yamaha used the same pitch in the 1984-1993 FJ1100/1200, 2001-2013 FZ1, and I'm sure any other Yamaha that had thread bar ends.

I've had this tool holder for several years and never mounted it on my last 3 bikes. Today, I saw a picture on ADV Rider that gave me an idea on how to mount it on my FJ 0 with Givi Rack. I had the tool holder, and spent less than $10 to mount it. 5/8 rubber lined clamps, 6mm bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts, and a pice of plastic mudflap I had laying around the garage.
 
This is what I ended up with;
 
 

 
This is how I mounted it;
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
This is the hardware I used;
 
 
 

 
 
 

 

I spent 7 hours in the seat today, with the first 3+ hours/150 miles non-stop. This seat delivers real comfort, and I was pain free. Usually at the end of a long ride, I need a few adult beverages to numb the pain, not needed with Terry's seat.
 
I was able to move forward/back easily when the conditions called for me closer to the tank in the turns, and slide back to cruise the long boring sections.

What do the locks look like? Givi locks are cheap and easy to get.

As a means of recording commuting close calls here in crazy Southern California, I mounted a Mobius camera to the front of my bike. Right now I have it plugged into the 12V Utility socket but one of these days I will rewire it to one of the open connectors in front of the odometer. 
 
It is considered a permanent installation.  The Mobius has loop recording so it just keeps recording new files over old files.  Camera powers up when bike powers up and shuts down when bike powers down.
 
I wanted it to be small so as not to draw attention to itself. It is virtually impossible to notice it without it being pointed out and having to bend down to have a looks see. I put a lexan cover on the front to protect the real lens.   Small sheet of lexan can be purchased at Home Depot,  I wipe off the lexan whenever I think about it.   The camera and the case were both purchased on ebay.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If the nylon cloth doesn't work for reducing vibration, I've read of some good results in reducing vibration in mirrors using Sorbothane foam. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042U78H2/ref=asc_df_B0042U78H25416103/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0042U78H2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193154321880&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12800397080349298856&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006822&hvtargid=aud-441392016954:pla-309744481826
 
 
 

I just got back from my first ride on one of Terry's seats, and I give it two thumbs up. I asked Terry to roll or smooth the front edge of the bucket, compared to his standard bucket shape because of my arthritic hips and he nailed it.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
Terry and Debi were super to work with, communicated clearly, and delivered as promised. I've had custom seats made for other bikes, and Terry's price was very reasonable compared other seat makers, including Russell, Mayer, Laam, and A Sweet Seat.
 
On my FJ 09, I've tried a Corbin. It seemed too narrow, and the front edges of the bucket dug into the back of my leg.
 
I tried a Sargent original. It sloped too far forward, and I was always pushing myself back with my arms. I sent the Sargent back for their "nose job". It didn't slope anymore, but the front edges of the bucket dug into the back of my legs.
 
I also tried a Seat Concepts thicker touring foam. It was OK, but it wasn't any more comfortable to me, than the OEM.
 
I used the Seat Concepts foam as a starting point and made my own custom seat. I added different layers of varying density foam. I would add foam, shave a little here, remove foam, maybe shave a little more, until I got right. This seat was good for no pain, but it wasn't 100% perfect. It was a little taller than I wanted. I was going to try some more modifications this spring, until I heard about Terry's seats. Now I'm done searching for a seat.