denveryzf

On 1/19/2023 at 8:30 AM, Northern900 said:

I didn’t do the mod as described by the OP, but I did replace my clutch basket with a new, updated one. I did not replace the plates or any other parts except for the nut that holds the clutch basket in place. Completely solved the ‘vibration’ issue. 

Hey Northern.. I have a '19 GT... could you share the part number of the updated part you got? Is it the one for the '21 and up models that 2and3 posted?

Thanks!

Yup, its normal. I rode to work yesterday morning, it was 26 degrees, and the coolant never went above 132. It has done that since it was new, and had 24k miles on it now, with no issues.

On 11/13/2022 at 3:57 PM, Warchild said:

I convinced myself early on that I would just leave the stock exhaust alone - but you know how that goes... 😆

I was bummed to learn that many (but not all) aftermarket exhaust systems only work without a center-stand. Others had a high upswept canister angle that is not friendly to the factory hard cases.  But then I learned that Yamaha had licensed Yoshimura to manufacture a full exhaust system specific to my model-year GT, that allows full use of center-stand and factory bags. The 'Y-Series" part number for it is:

Unfortunately, Yoshimura has long ago ceased production of this specific model exhaust, since the bike itself changed drastically in the 2021 model year. Happily, my awesome Parts Manager at my dealer has strong ties with the Yamaha Supply system in Georgia, where there were still eight (8) of these full exhaust systems sitting on a shelf, still NIB. 

Now there are only 7, 'cuz I scored one of these NIB Yosh full exhaust systems, now sitting in my garage - it's one of several winter projects:
 

 

It may be a while I get to the installation - I am still riding as long as snow stays away.

I put one of these on my '19 GT about 2.5 years ago and absolutely love it. The installation isn't hard, but it is a bit fiddly, and requires some patience.  I have ridden it many miles with the DB killer in & out, and it sounds great both ways, but it can get a bit tiresome on long highway runs due to drone/resonance without the DB killer.

No matter which way you choose, I think you will love it. It is a bit quiet at first with the DB killer in, but will get louder so give it some time to break in. It is perfect for me with the DB killer in now, but every now and then I take it out when I know I will just be around town or backroads for a while, the CP3 does sound awesome.

I'm still in the process of doing my valves, and I can say the HotCams shims I used (so far) measure out pretty accurately. If I could have  a "do over" I'd buy the Pro-X kit... All of my exhaust valves were too tight, and while the 1.75 & 1.80 shims put them back "in spec", I think one will be right at the edge of being to loose, so I ordered some Pro-X refills from Amazon this morning.

I wont really know the truth until I reassemble enough that I can rotate the engine by hand and re-measure. TBH this really isn't a hard process, but it is time consuming, so I'm hoping I don't have to disassemble and redo anything. Since I'm taking my time and being careful, its been rather enjoyable anyway.

A few weeks later, and I finally got all the parts/supplies I needed, and started on the valve check/adjest today. What worked for me  was too remove the very front bolt on the Givi bars, loosen the rear one enough to rotate up a little, and that is all the clearance I needed.

I just finished checking clearances, and all of the exhaust valves are tight  on my GT at 21,500 miles. 2 are at .20mm, 3 at .22, and 1 at .23. The intake valves are all in spec, but both intake valves are in the .12-.13 range on cylinder 3.....cylinder 1 & 2 are in the .13-.15 range. As expected I'll have to remove the CC tensioner, pull the cams aside and do some shim swapping.

I'm also changing the plug ( they look ok ), changing air filter, removing AIS and installing block off plates, swapping coolant, oil & filter, and doing a TB sync. I did at TB sync around 12k miles and it was significantly out of adjustment, will see how it is this time.

Thanks for the suggestions, and many thanks to those who have posted pics & how to's in the past regarding doing the valve check...it is really helping me figure out the points that the service manual is a bit vague about.

2and3.. I believe you, and I have the same tools, but I can say with 100% certainty that will not work on  mine. The bar is just to close to the case plug, and right over the center of it, cant even get close to getting the hex key into the plug, let alone seated enough unscrew it without stripping it. I'll either loosen the bar, or use the countershaft nut to rotate the engine, just no way around it.

I was wondering if that might work… thanks!

36 minutes ago, ilanr1 said:

Hi , this is the same with the GIVI engine guard for the 2015 early tracer 900 models.

You can remove the 2 front bolts and just loose the 3rd one near the central stand.

This will give you room to do whatever is needed , this way i did it.

Thanks

7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I've successfully adjusted the valves with my Givi case guards (If that's what you have as well) in place 4 times using these tools.

You need to grind the end of the 14 mm hex bit flat for proper engagement of the large plug.

From the placement of my crash bar vs that plug, I’m not seeing how that is possible, the bar is dead center over the plug and less than 1” away from it. The placement of the bar could not be any worse in this case. 

My other idea/option is too rotate using the countershaft sprocket nut, that might be a little more precise….
 

Hey guys,

I want to know if any of you have tried to do a valve inspect/adjust with these bars in place? I really wish this bar wasn’t in the way, but I’m thinking it may not matter too much? I can get to the screw that so I can verify crank position, so maybe I can rotate the crank by using the rear wheel once the plugs are out? 
 And yes the right thing to do would be to remove the crash bar, but if you have ever installed these, you already know what a pain in the a$$ it is, so I’d really rather not. Have any of you guys successfully worked around this little issue, or have any tips? This is  ‘19 GT by the way…

Thanks!

On 2/14/2022 at 11:56 AM, pokey074 said:

How about GPS mounting?

I bought one of those windscreen adjuster mounts off eBay. Changing out to a Madstad eliminates the OEM adjuster. I have a handlebar RAM mount but I like the GPS above the instrument cluster. When I contacted Madstad, they said the mount no longer comes with a provision for GPS mounting.

I used some of my Ram Mount hardware I had in my tool box plus a  Quad Lock attachment. I had vibration problems with my iPhone when I was using the bar mount, no issues with it mounted above the dash so far.

I'm about your size and running a 22" Madstad on my GT.. I love it.  Dont forget you can change the angle as well as up/down... that can make a quite a difference in airflow, especially at highway/Interstate speeds.

2 hours ago, betoney said:

Race Tech Gold Valves are just one option, other companies sell fork piston kits as well.

https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/p-21465-k-tech-suspension-20ssk-fork-piston-kit.aspx

https://traxxion.com/product/axxion-valve-upgrade/

https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/ohlins-fork-piston-kit-universal-20mm/

A suspension specialist will also be able to 're-valve' the forks with their own parts.

Thanks for this, I'm eyeing the k-tech stuff right now.

You will get a fault light doing that, it happened to me. Im not sure if turning TCS off will help, but since the I purchased and OBD2 adaptor cable to I can read & clear codes like this myself. At the time I had to pay my local dealership to clear it since that affects Quickshifer, and some other things as I recall. 

One thing to note, My wheel was spinning much faster than idle speed, so this might have been a factor. I putt the bike in 2nd and gave it a quick spin to dry the chain after washing it... and BOOM the light came on.

I received my MX+ and adaptor cable yesterday....worked immediately on my '19 GT and F-150. Maybe the older bikes require a cable with a different pinout, or just don't do this at all?  I really like tinkering with stuff, and love the modern conveniences like heated grips and cruise control....... but on the other hand I stillmiss the simplicity of my 2005 FZ1 sometimes.

My wife and I both use the Cardo PackTalk Bold, she usually rides her own bike though. We had Sena SMH-10's up until last year, and they were fine....the Cardo's sound much better for both music and intercom so far. The voice control feature of the Cardo is nice as well....  between the Cardo voice commands, and Siri,  you can pretty much do anything via voice commands. There are a bunch of reviews on the Sena's and Cardo's on YouTube, you might watch several of those before deciding.

The SE is replacing the the standard Roadtec 01...The Roadtec 01 HWM  (Heavy Weight Motorcycle) is for the bigger bikes, and is not shown in the new SE lineup yet,.There are some good reviews out there (All from Europe & Australia)...not sure why the US Market ignores Metzler so often. Sounds like they a bit of an improvement from the previous generation Roadtec 01's

ROADTEC™ 01 SE: The best solution for Sport Touring tires | Metzeler

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Choose the Metzeler ROADTEC™ 01 SE tires and discover the...

Metzeler Roadtec 01 SE review

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Visordown went to try out the new Metzeler Roadtec 01 SE rubber...

I ceramic coat our cars, bikes, and helmets.  I tend to use "middle of the road", easy to use coatings that are a little less expensive.  Surface prep is key, I wash the vehicle with dawn (degreases, strips wax, etc),  rinse well, clay bar paint to remove embedded contaminants,  polish/correct any scratches/swirls, then wash with dawn again to remove any residue then dry thoroughly.

With the now clean, cool, dry paint I spray light mist of water & isopropyl alcohol as a final cleaning, and wipe off right before applying the coating. You need to have a cool, shady, clean place to apply the coating, and work in sections that are manageable. Wipe on in a crosshatch pattern to get good coverage, then wipe off in 2-5 mins depending on the product. For best result make sure to use lint-free microfibers cloths.

The paint will  look very good immediately,  but  will look & feel much better after 8-24 hrs. Makes removing bugs, tar, dirt much easier. Are a ton of you tube channels that show you how to use these the right way. 

You can also apply a layer of your fav wax or sealant on top of these coatings once they have cured... the extra shine/slickness is noticeable.

Have an Ivan's flash on my GT ECU, and really like it

On 8/24/2020 at 5:07 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

I got a check but I think I got about the same out of my RS3 but they really needed it sooner and I don't know if you saw it when I posted up I was seeing chords on the rear hahaha

The T31 ones are nice any new tires nice I just hope I get the mileage I'm looking for out of them with my new 520 chain and sprockets (2nd set of 520 in 41k) that I put on at the same time I lubed the swing arm and linkage cleaned up the bike rerouted the chain oiler

got to stiffen up the front though in this hot weather, it is like Florida here

 

I did this a couple of times on my '05 FZ1 and it wasn't too bad. Did you run into any snags with the FJ? Mine is a GT, but I assume they are pretty much the same, aside from swing arm length and minor difference in shock design?

I love mine. Grip puppies, MadStad windscreen, and FJR foot pegs made a noticeable difference. Recently I sent my ECU to Ivan's, and that made a huge difference in low speed throttle sensitivity, fans come on much soon in traffic, etc... I really liked this bike when I bought it, now I LOVE it.

My GT behaves the same way...rain, and cool/cold weather really keep the engine temps pretty low. In 20F degree F weather mine barely makes it too 135F-140F. In rainy 70F weather I see about 155F - 165F.  

I have gotten 55mpg at times when cruising 2 lane roads in the 45-55mph range... drops to 42-45mpg at interstate speeds

25 minutes ago, nhchris said:

Hi all,

Can someone recommend a source for protective engine- and clutch-side covers for my FJ 09?

I know R&G is a popular supplier, but they get terrible reviews on Revzilla for cheap hardware bolts that strip before torque values are reached.

Anyone using non-R&G covers that they want to recommend???

T-Rex Racing 2013 - 2019 Yamaha FZ-09 / MT-09 / FJ-09 / Tracer 900 / XSR900 Engine Case Covers

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T-Rex Racing 2013 - 2019 Yamaha FZ-09 / MT-09 / FJ-09 / Tracer 900 /...

Ive had good luck with these on my other bikes, and will probably get these again for my 900GT. They arent pretty, but they are tough...

I have about 7k miles on my RS3's, and they have been great so far.. I run them at 32psi front and 36 rear since I almost never have passenger and not much in the hard cases. From the looks of them, I think I may get another 5k miles out of them before they need to be replaced.