denveryzf

Hey Northern.. I have a '19 GT... could you share the part number of the updated part you got? Is it the one for the '21 and up models that 2and3 posted? Thanks!

Yup, its normal. I rode to work yesterday morning, it was 26 degrees, and the coolant never went above 132. It has done that since it was new, and had 24k miles on it now, with no issues.

I put one of these on my '19 GT about 2.5 years ago and absolutely love it. The installation isn't hard, but it is a bit fiddly, and requires some patience. I have ridden it many miles with the DB killer in & out, and it sounds great both ways, but it can get a bit tiresome on long highway runs due to drone/resonance without the DB killer. No matter which way you choose, I think you will love it. It is a bit quiet at first with the DB killer in, but will get louder so give it some time to break in. It is perfect for me with the DB killer in now, but every now and then I take it out when I know I will just be around town or backroads for a while, the CP3 does sound awesome.

I'm still in the process of doing my valves, and I can say the HotCams shims I used (so far) measure out pretty accurately. If I could have a "do over" I'd buy the Pro-X kit... All of my exhaust valves were too tight, and while the 1.75 & 1.80 shims put them back "in spec", I think one will be right at the edge of being to loose, so I ordered some Pro-X refills from Amazon this morning. I wont really know the truth until I reassemble enough that I can rotate the engine by hand and re-measure. TBH this really isn't a hard process, but it is time consuming, so I'm hoping I don't have to disassemble and redo anything. Since I'm taking my time and being careful, its been rather enjoyable anyway.

A few weeks later, and I finally got all the parts/supplies I needed, and started on the valve check/adjest today. What worked for me was too remove the very front bolt on the Givi bars, loosen the rear one enough to rotate up a little, and that is all the clearance I needed. I just finished checking clearances, and all of the exhaust valves are tight on my GT at 21,500 miles. 2 are at .20mm, 3 at .22, and 1 at .23. The intake valves are all in spec, but both intake valves are in the .12-.13 range on cylinder 3.....cylinder 1 & 2 are in the .13-.15 range. As expected I'll have to remove the CC tensioner, pull the cams aside and do some shim swapping. I'm also changing the plug ( they look ok ), changing air filter, removing AIS and installing block off plates, swapping coolant, oil & filter, and doing a TB sync. I did at TB sync around 12k miles and it was significantly out of adjustment, will see how it is this time. Thanks for the suggestions, and many thanks to those who have posted pics & how to's in the past regarding doing the valve check...it is really helping me figure out the points that the service manual is a bit vague about.

2and3.. I believe you, and I have the same tools, but I can say with 100% certainty that will not work on mine. The bar is just to close to the case plug, and right over the center of it, cant even get close to getting the hex key into the plug, let alone seated enough unscrew it without stripping it. I'll either loosen the bar, or use the countershaft nut to rotate the engine, just no way around it.

I was wondering if that might work… thanks!

From the placement of my crash bar vs that plug, I’m not seeing how that is possible, the bar is dead center over the plug and less than 1” away from it. The placement of the bar could not be any worse in this case.

My other idea/option is too rotate using the countershaft sprocket nut, that might be a little more precise….

Hey guys, I want to know if any of you have tried to do a valve inspect/adjust with these bars in place? I really wish this bar wasn’t in the way, but I’m thinking it may not matter too much? I can get to the screw that so I can verify crank position, so maybe I can rotate the crank by using the rear wheel once the plugs are out? And yes the right thing to do would be to remove the crash bar, but if you have ever installed these, you already know what a pain in the a$$ it is, so I’d really rather not. Have any of you guys successfully worked around this little issue, or have any tips? This is ‘19 GT by the way… Thanks!

I used some of my Ram Mount hardware I had in my tool box plus a Quad Lock attachment. I had vibration problems with my iPhone when I was using the bar mount, no issues with it mounted above the dash so far.

I'm about your size and running a 22" Madstad on my GT.. I love it. Dont forget you can change the angle as well as up/down... that can make a quite a difference in airflow, especially at highway/Interstate speeds.

Thanks for this, I'm eyeing the k-tech stuff right now.

You will get a fault light doing that, it happened to me. Im not sure if turning TCS off will help, but since the I purchased and OBD2 adaptor cable to I can read & clear codes like this myself. At the time I had to pay my local dealership to clear it since that affects Quickshifer, and some other things as I recall. One thing to note, My wheel was spinning much faster than idle speed, so this might have been a factor. I putt the bike in 2nd and gave it a quick spin to dry the chain after washing it... and BOOM the light came on.

I received my MX+ and adaptor cable yesterday....worked immediately on my '19 GT and F-150. Maybe the older bikes require a cable with a different pinout, or just don't do this at all? I really like tinkering with stuff, and love the modern conveniences like heated grips and cruise control....... but on the other hand I stillmiss the simplicity of my 2005 FZ1 sometimes.