Wintersdark

Dat red doe. Mmm. Damn that's a nice looking bike. I never noticed the bellypan before; looks fantastic.

I've never heard of anyone having a catastrophic failure issue with the CP2 or CP3 in any bikes - FZ, FJ, or MT. The worst things I've seen tend to be user error. Most frequently, chain failure trashing the case (maintain your chain!) - there's several very graphic examples of that here.

$17.29. Shipping took 2 days. Ended up being pretty expensive all together, but I'm really happy with it.

6cm above the high point, and 2cm below the low. That's pretty impressive, and makes it more competitive vs. buying a huge barn-door windscreen. I imagine still pretty spendy though.

What's funny is I do have a pile of rags that I use - and even used during the installation once I was playing with the banjo bolt (dripping brake fluid is bad) and setting the bars down on the bike (scratches are bad) - but didn't think to put on when I was taking off the RAM mount. And yeah, my normal MO is a short test ride after work - but that was kind of the problem here, I cut short the work (and thus did a shitty job; all on me there) in my eagerness to get into that ride. It's a road I don't often get down as it's pretty far away, but really love riding, and it was a great group of people too.

Yeah, and one that was entirely due to my own idiocy. Not really my proudest moment.

Smaller tank, but much better gas mileage. You end up with a shorter range, but not much shorter. But, my question here - and clearly a feature I wasn't aware the FJR had - what is an electric screen?

I make a point of avoiding those boring highways. Turns out, you can get pretty much anywhere completely or at least nearly so avoiding such highways, and it makes trips *way* better. Just gotta spend a bit more time plotting out routes, and talking to people as you go to find the best roads.

Got mine installed yesterday, and a good ride in with them. They're expensive, but clearly a quality product and they work fantastically well. Very, very happy with them.

Got my Helibar risers yesterday, installed, and got out on a nice group ride through a twisty old 2-lane highway up to Canmore, AB and back - a perfect chance to test em out! To be honest, I didn't really expect to find them make a big difference, but wow, they're awesome. That 1-1/8th rise and 1-1/8th pullback are *significantly* more comfortable for me, while not feeling in the way in the slightest at crouch and lean. Really helps with the "roll forward" feeling of the seat for me, as I can sit a lot more upright. It's a pretty impressive product, too, for what amounts to a chunk of metal. Well machined, perfect fit, powdercoat isn't an exact match but is very close. Installation was a breeze. Well. Therein lay a problem. See, while installing the riser, I needed to take off two things attached to my handlebars - my heated gear temp controller and my RAM mount. But I dropped one of the RAM mount's nuts, which bounced (of course it did) through the tiny opening and directly into the frame of the bike. I could see it, but with like a 1/2" opening only accessible angled through the bars, it was *extremely* difficult to reach the nut. I got the notification for the upcoming group ride in one hour, but the meetup point was an hour away, so I slapped everything back together and took off. Riding out, mid corner at speed, I saw both rear handlebar clamp bolts, just bouncing in their sockets. I'd adjusted the bar position, snugged down the front two, then gotten distracted by fishing for the RAM mount nut until I got the notification. Never even tightened the back ones other than a few threads in by finger. Fortunately, I always carry a toolkit, so tightening them up was trivial, but... It's a little stressful to see that while right into a high speed corner.

Oh, man. Needed my toolkit last night! So, as per my (upcoming) post in the daily do thread, I got my Helibar riser yesterday, and was in the middle of installing it when I found out about a group ride happening out an old highway (1A) to Canmore. It's just a couple hours, but one of the few genuinely windy roads around here, and I'm not missing out on that opportunity to test the risers with both a decent length ride (for comfort) and twisties (for performance). Slapped things together quick, and headed out. Except... I'd been distracted by fishing out a nut from my old RAM mount that had fallen literally into the frame. I'd only snugged the front two handlebar clamp bolts, and not even that with the rear two, but forgot to finish that in my haste to meet up with the group. Crouched over, 120kph in a curve on the bumpy, windy mountain road, when I catch out of the corner of my eye both rearward handlebar clamp bolts literally bouncing, completely loose in their sockets. I'm amazed that the handlebars didn't just flop about like that, but I'll take it. Pull over, out comes the toolkit, bolts all get tightened up, and I'm back on my way. I'm damn glad I have that toolkit in there.

That's awesome, man! Fantastic pic, too, looks like that was a ton of fun.

Yeah, but my understanding from chatting with other oiler users is the (newer?) scottoilers have a direct "drips per minute" setting that accounts for viscosity and actually gets the actual number of drops per minute. Dunno if they're a constant volume, though, as I don't actually know how the mechanism works at all. They've also got the advantage of being able to be hidden, which is difficult with the Tutoro as it needs to be upright as it's gravity fed.

Not sold off shelves basically anywhere as far as I can tell, need to order them in. Anyone who sells offroad Anlas tires (Capra-X for example) can get them in, but they probably don't know it. Just need a parts guy who's willing to do a bit of investigation to get them.

This is something that matters a lot for me, as I live at a fairly high elevation and am up and down a lot. The Tutoro is vented and works at atmospheric pressure, so it's entirely unaffected by pressure. It IS affected by temperature, though - as it warmed up, I had to turn down the flow rate dial as (as you'd expect) the oil flow rate increased dramatically from -20C through +20C.