Givi 2139 crash bar vs Valve Inspect Adjust

[denveryzf]

Hey guys,

I want to know if any of you have tried to do a valve inspect/adjust with these bars in place? I really wish this bar wasn’t in the way, but I’m thinking it may not matter too much? I can get to the screw that so I can verify crank position, so maybe I can rotate the crank by using the rear wheel once the plugs are out? 
 And yes the right thing to do would be to remove the crash bar, but if you have ever installed these, you already know what a pain in the a$$ it is, so I’d really rather not. Have any of you guys successfully worked around this little issue, or have any tips? This is  ‘19 GT by the way…

Thanks!

 

Edited February 22, 2022 by denveryzf
Typo

[skipperT]

You could check them with the bars installed, but I wouldn’t recommend working around them if (more like when) camshaft removal is required to adjust the exhaust valves.
 

Timing the engine by spinning the wheel will be difficult to perform precisely, which is required when timing the cams. You’re probably thinking “it’ll be fine as long as the engine doesn’t rotate” and I’d agree. But this engine DOES have a tendency to jump out of time when your are tightening everything down.

Just a heads up and my 0.02 FWIW…

-Skip

[2and3cylinders]

I've successfully adjusted the valves with my Givi case guards (If that's what you have as well) in place 4 times using these tools.

You need to grind the end of the 14 mm hex bit flat for proper engagement of the large plug.  The socket for the crank bolt is a 19 mm 6 point.

[denveryzf]

My other idea/option is too rotate using the countershaft sprocket nut, that might be a little more precise….
 

[denveryzf]

7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I've successfully adjusted the valves with my Givi case guards (If that's what you have as well) in place 4 times using these tools.

You need to grind the end of the 14 mm hex bit flat for proper engagement of the large plug.

From the placement of my crash bar vs that plug, I’m not seeing how that is possible, the bar is dead center over the plug and less than 1” away from it. The placement of the bar could not be any worse in this case. 

Edited February 22, 2022 by denveryzf
Typo

[piotrek]

You might have luck by grinding the tool to make the shank part as thin as possible. I could probably go much thinner than the photo and still be plenty strong for the purpose. The cover is very soft... and needlessly tight from factory, and so you see some minor damage on mine. For the 19mm crank socket use a 1/4" extension with a wobble end if possible. This is all on the FJ-09. Good luck.

[ilanr1]

Hi , this is the same with the GIVI engine guard for the 2015 early tracer 900 models.

You can remove the 2 front bolts and just loose the 3rd one near the central stand.

This will give you room to do whatever is needed , this way i did it.

Thanks

[denveryzf]

I was wondering if that might work… thanks!

36 minutes ago, ilanr1 said:

Hi , this is the same with the GIVI engine guard for the 2015 early tracer 900 models.

You can remove the 2 front bolts and just loose the 3rd one near the central stand.

This will give you room to do whatever is needed , this way i did it.

Thanks

 

[2and3cylinders]

As I said, I have a 15 with the Givi case guards and the tools I showed work without touching the case guard fasteners.

Now loosening the left case guard to move it a bit may only work if when the guards were installed the OEM though bolt that clamps the lower rear left guard bracket was reversed so it's nut is now on the left side.  I reversed the bolt during original installation to greatly ease guard removal because OEM this bolt was inserted left to right.

[denveryzf]

2and3.. I believe you, and I have the same tools, but I can say with 100% certainty that will not work on  mine. The bar is just to close to the case plug, and right over the center of it, cant even get close to getting the hex key into the plug, let alone seated enough unscrew it without stripping it. I'll either loosen the bar, or use the countershaft nut to rotate the engine, just no way around it.

[2and3cylinders]

The only thing I can figure is Givi made a dimensional change or their QA/QC sucks and you got a flier...as our frames should be identical.

[bwringer]

Why all this faffing around to save maybe three minutes? You'll spend far more time working around the guard than just getting it out of your way from the start.

It's much MUCH easier and faster to remove the two front bolts from the guard and loosen the rear bolt a bit and swing it out of the way. The guard remains attached to the bike, and you get plenty of room to work and see what you're doing.

The hardest part for me was getting enough light and a line of sight sufficient to see those damn super-faint timing marks. Whoever was stamping those at the factory must have been feeling a little off that day.

[2and3cylinders]

It takes me no extra time to remove the crank bolt plug.  Reinstalling the plug is a bit of a pain but still only a matter of an extra minute.

Why bother removing something if it is unnecessary, and for me would add a lot of time, aggregation and fastener wear?

Try these...I've had 3 that, knock on plastic, are still ticking and work great after 3+ years, and the battery is readily replaceable. You can't toss them around or hold them by the light bar Alf but they hold a charge well and charge fast on a 2 amp charger.

https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2022/02/179043-56329/

Have not tried these

 https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-360°Rotate-Inspection-Flashlight-Household/dp/B082KGY3S6/ref=asc_df_B082KGY3S6?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333160028616&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932709076297&psc=1

[peteinpa]

I'll add if all you are doing is checking...You can just pull the valve cover, turn engine with rear wheel, trans in top gear, and check valves when their lobes are pointing away.  Done that on many bikes in the past.

Now if you know the cams are coming out, lose the cage. 

[2and3cylinders]

Case guards and radiator main houses untouched to swap shims, etc...