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2and3cylinders last won the day on May 12

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About 2and3cylinders

  • Birthday 11/19/1944

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    Skokie, IL


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  1. It depends on your Mechanical Aptitude setup tools jigs I tore down my Forks polish the tubes flushed the internals with cheap ATF reassembled everything Blended my own fluid as mentioned and set it up to my liking and I truly think it is exceptional bang for the buck I think I may have posted how I did it in another thread but do your due diligence and look at some videos and get the tools you need and you shouldn't have a problem
  2. A huge ๐Ÿ‘for Matt and his fork cartridges and new shock sales. Chose for my 2015 FJ his advanced fork cartridge set that included compression (I installed the adjustable screw in the bottom of the left leg so it can be accessed after partially unthreading the axle, the right cartridge compression is fixed) and rebound (with provision of right OEM fork cap and rod for the left tube) in both legs. Matt also provided .95 Sonic springs and I blended my own 16 cst synthetic fluid. I also bought Matt's K-Tech Razor R shock with his custom spacer for a Torrington bearing he also installs to ease setting spring preload. So far with only about 500 miles to allow for wear-in, the results are VERY encouraging! Whereas shock length was verified to be the OEM 330 mm (if I recall correctly), rear ride height seems a bit high which may be due to the stiffer spring which sags less (even with my standard Shad SH46 top case loaded). This sense of an elevated rear could be heightened (pun intended) by the fact I had previously raised the fork stansions about 4 mm to quicken turn-in, which I will lower to stock fork height when I soon change tires (front and rear; the Dunlop RS3 have been great, again). I thought the stock geometry due to the OEM suspension needed quicker response with less effort, which the new suspension offers without raised tubes, even with less dive under braking (320 mm R1 rotors and Brembo 2014 R1 master cylinder, and Vesrah RJL pads). I dont get the longer GT swing arm but I come from sport bikes and think the FJ09 is a Barca Lounger for my retirement age damaged and arthritic joints. Again, hats off to Matt even though his communication response may be slow his customer service is great and he seems to care.
  3. In the last 30 days we've had over double our normal rainfall and temps have been 20 degrees below average High yesterday was 48 and I didn't wear my heated jacket liner or sock warmers but still did 300 miles to test new suspension (see my new post) It was a bit chilly!
  4. Highly likely, as other than the longer swing arm (not relevant here) and quick-shifter rod in the linkage, nothing should have changed.
  5. i was going to suggest the MFW Vario system Vario Footpeg System WWW.MFW-WOLF.DE I seen the Ebay Chinese knock offs but am unsure of their quality and structural integrity with a couple of different indexing designs noted. The MFW's on my VTR1000F have withstood my considerable girth for probably 70k miles... How did they work with the brake pedal (mods needed)? I'd think the shift lever could be adjusted to suit. Only issue I see is I really like my fleabay rubber covered pegs that are significantly longer than OEM. MFW does have 2 different styles of rubber covered pegs for their Vario system, and link plate lengths.
  6. these were great and cheap 1. Outlaw Racing TH-08 โ€œLowโ€ Black 1-1/8โ€ Handlebars (shortened 18 mm w-ends drilled & tapped M16 x 1.5 x 30 for OEM M8 threaded bar end inserts). Packed full & solid with BBs
  7. That's why I dropped a tooth in front but afterward I did notice as much as 2 mpg drop. That's the reason I went back to stock, fuel range is critical when touring often...
  8. I tried 1 down in the front at about 15k miles and went back to stock when I replaced the chain and both sprockets at about 22k miles. I don't find the FJ to be buzzy (Grip Puppies, bar packed ed with BBs and rubber covered pegs may explain some of that) but I like the snappy and revy nature of the CP3 engine (albeit after having the ECU flashed) and often ride in A mode. In fact, I sometimes catch myself cruising on the freeway in 4th gear and only notice because of the higher gas mileage read-out. I have my 15 set up as a sport-tourer (Shad SH46 top case and SH36 side cases, and a Givi touring screen with adjustable spoiler) but like a good romp Sunday in Cheeseheadland as much as I do on my VTR1000F; which I also moded to the touring side because of my aging bod...
  9. Does this issue only apply to the new GT? As I've had Givi case guards on my 15 FJ-09 and don't recall this problem but now I need to look ๐Ÿ˜ž I also flip-flopped the bolt for the lower left bar...
  10. 87 and 89 octane fuel does not necessarily equate to poor quality , as crappy 91 octane can also be found. Impurities and water from the gas station's tanks are what contaminate most fuels. I also understand how compression and timing (both valve and ignition) determine fuel octane requirements, and that the CP3 needs revs. But I thought someone, maybe on the FZ-09 side, had made dyno runs with a knock sensor or modified spark plug that permits viewing combustion, and determined 91 is not necessarily required under 80 F and standard loads. I have used Chevron Techron for a very long time and according to Chevron it is safe for cats and does NOT contain lead as Her Miller implied but it can elevate oil lead levels due to how it reacts in the engine.
  11. I carry both a 14 mm combo open / box end wrench and 14 mm socket but a 14 mm hex key (Allen) is not necessary (though I have one it provides poor leverage unless a spark plug socket or pipe is slipped over it for comfort) to remove the front axle. Instead or in addition to I include in my on-bike tool kit a 3/8" - 16 TPI x 1-1/8" Coupling Nut (whose outer dimension/shape is a snug 14 mm hexagon), which nicely fits in the front axle to loosen it with a box wrench or socket; and is much more compact and easier to use than a 14 mm hex key. Available at your local Home Depot or equivalent...
  12. Has anybody come up with a way of defeating only the rear ABS yet inquiring minds want to know
  13. While this thread has been moribund for quite a while, I have a couple related questions: Does not lead damage the catalytic converter, or was the amount and duration you used the "octane booster" below those thresholds? Have you tried running lower octane gas than 91, and if so what were your observations? I've tried 91/93 E0 and E10, and 89 & 87 E10, and while I never did so in temps over 80F or hammered it hard, I never could discern any differences or heard pre-ignition or detention (although I always wear ear plugs and a full face or flip front helmet). Others have stated the run mid grade and regular with no apparent I'll effects. Obviously, Yamaha tuned the CP3 engine for 91 but given reasonable throttle control and lower temps without heavy loads,what is your opinion in this regard?