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2and3cylinders

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About 2and3cylinders

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  • Location
    Skokie, IL
  • Bike
    2015 FJ-09FR

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  1. that come with the AIR system block-off plates (see diag 2C & pg 2 pic 6) I bought on eBay that are NOT from Graves (whose instructions I've referred to above & below)? I presume the larger cap goes over the outlet spigot the protrudes down from the left side of the air box where hose 2 to the AIR system slips over (see diag 1C & pg 2 pic 7). Graves only shows the one big cap but the set I received has a smaller cap, so where, if anywhere, does the other smaller cap go? I'd think you'd NOT want to cap off the crankcase breather outlet from the valve cover that connects via hose 25 to the inlet spigot at the bottom of the airbox (see diag 3C & p1 pic 4)? Thanks
  2. I had a set of hippo hands and they were huge if I recall. Which model do you have and just for yucks, how much would you part with them for? I'm seriously considering the other ones poste, even though I have the KTM Adventurer handguards and the oem heated grips; as well as the warm n safe heavy armored heated gloves that connect to the heated jacket liner powered by their dual heattroller. I also have an old heated heated vest that I wear in less challenging weather, though it's a little tight on me. LOL 😂
  3. The MRW screen spoiler adjustable mounting system is substantially different and beefier than their Xcreen Tour spoiler mount design, which is much more streamlined, smaller and less obtrusive but the MRW combination screen and spoiler certainly looks bulletproof! Where did you buy it from and for how much, and I presume they make a clear version? Thx
  4. OK, I should have known this but didn't. They're website sucks though, on my cell at least, can't scroll down when searching for Yamaha, the whole screen slides up. On a PC it still isn't good. Has anyone found a platinum or iridium plug that has the same reach etc as our OEM spec plug?
  5. So I once turned onto a back country road at speed which had no warning signage suddenly became freshly graded almost 3" deep uncompacted 3/4" average diameter river-washed gravel. To say slowing down was a sphincter puckering experience is an understatement. When I did safely get stopped and turned around enough to go back hence I came, every time I tried to take off no matter how gently with smooth clutch slippage no forward progress was possible. I finally realized I needed to turn off the TC; my FJ being the first bike I've owned with TC, ABS and FI. As soon as the TC was defeated, I was able to safely get back to tarmac, which I'm much more comfortable on...
  6. Just push it centered after cleaning and greasing. Last service I bought a low mile used link / dog bone assembly for like $35 (I still lubed it), so next service I'll just swap them out. I don't know why they don't have shouldered thrust washers and tighter tolerance to keep the dog bones centered. My Razor R shock doesn't seemingly care though...
  7. So if you use copper anti seize on the plugs you can leave them in for 40000 lol I did an experiment with the iridium plugs and they ran fine and wore minimally but since they were the wrong reach, I took him out and put the oem spec plugs in. I did use spark plug indexing washers to orient the open side of the ground electrode facing the intake valves not that it probably matters much. I too have an ancient, I believe, motion pro mercury filled plastic tube on sheet metal 1 CM calibrated scale mounting board manometer, and a 2 channel electronic unit, the latter obviously not suitable for a CP3. I will pre check each tube on the same TB to verify they read the same and notated any variations (each tube hose has a "jet" in it to dampen pulsing and reduce mercury overall range). At the first valve lash check at 20k miles all were very tight. 2nd check 15k later none had changed. So at 50k now and recuperating do I check them again along with the air filter, plugs and TB sync over the winter?
  8. Good to know, thanks. Did it also bend the pivot bracket and spread the stand clevis, and do you think internal corrosion contributed? When my body permits, I'm going to take a close up and personal look at my side stand below the clevis!
  9. I could not tell if you were wearing the pack or fixing it on your bike because in 4 of your photos it was off your pillion. A pack not specifically designed to be fixed to the bike can be tricky to attach. A sudden shift or popped strap getting into the rear wheel can be not a good thing. Wearing such a large pack can significantly increase fatigue and thus loss of concentration, especially in hot weather; and is not good for your neck, arm, shoulder and back muscles in the long term. Aerodynamics come into play as well, good and bad during cross winds, In my "yute" I remember riding the same roads albeit MUCH slower on my 1959 BSA B33 500 single; it did have telescopic forks and plunger rear suspension, with an alternator and coil ignition rather than a Lucas Prince of Darkness magneto! I did bungee my army back pack & sleeping bag to the pillion too. Later I upgraded to a 61 BSA Gold Star Catalina 500 in a Rickman-Matisse frame. What a super singe that was! I still easily recall the visual beauty and especially the woodsy aromas of the area, and camping out one time near Polly Dome on the 4th of July. Coincidentally that night I was within sight and earshot of a group of Hell's Angels; who nicely left me alone because I was on British iron. They then and are still not fans of Asian bikes to say the least! But my fav 500 single was my also similar color fastest red cafe'd-out 61 Matchless G80CS to which I adapted a Mikuni carb! In the mountains a year later in San Diego county tearing up to Mt. Palomar it was a magic carpet ride (see my profile pic). BTW, Do you have the aluminum 85 degree valve stems? If not, they're recommended, as they are more durable and greatly ease checking pressure.
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