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About 2and3cylinders


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  1. I did that many years ago and then made a little enclosure for it but it is definitely not the same as the dynaplug pump which is smaller has the screw on hose the LED light and the airport to check pressure well it's still connected it also doesn't run is hot or vibrate and is relatively quiet so not all pumps are created equal just my opinion
  2. I bought this a couple of years ago for about 45 bucks, they still sell it at cycle gear but without all the attachments very light and compact relatively smooth and quiet I'm actually pretty impressed with it and it's relatively light weight, and has an LED light and a port to check air pressure while you're filling it. the gauge that comes with it isn't that accurate though but I use a slime digital that was pretty cheap
  3. The short Shield thread was sent for the photos I'm very tolerant to a point and I was trying to help out
  4. They can be had as covered in a couple of other threads on eBay for less than $10 for example anything that fits in FZ6 we'll fit at least up through the 17 FJ 09 I believe Do a search them and side stand foot expanders ra dime a dozen
  5. The topic of mounts what I referred to as heads-up displays in my related posts and others have been extensively covered I thought as well as power recently in a parallel thread
  6. Where you feed the VM from depends on what you want to read, battery voltage or system voltage at some point far from the battery. Technically, larger gauge wire provides the less amperage drop and truer voltage reading. I feed a volt meter from both the battery using 16 ga wire AND instrument voltage using a SPST switch. I also have an amp meter that measures battery voltage during starting. Plus I have a combo VM - dual 2.1a USB power port unit in the right hole. Don't expect any inexpensive digital VM to be particularly accurate but you can "calibrate" relative to a known quality multi-meter. I also carry a lithium micro jump starter unit which I have never needed myself thankfully but did start a Suburu 4-cyl, a 88 HD Evo big twin and an 97 Valkyrie Tour with it no problem...
  7. 20% weight reduction with slightly faster spin up. With the relatively high redline, rev happy and grunty CP3 engine, I felt a 15T front was over-kill, increased vibes and reduced already disappointing gas mileage. I also cruise at higher speeds to get to the abysmal country roads we call twisties, so lower revs reduce rpm = less buzz and more mpg. Even though I installed a 2016 XSR900 slip-assist clutch, dropping down 2 gears and dumping the clutch if needed is less stressful on the drivetrain with a 16T
  8. Am I the only one who went with a 520 DID ZVMX with Superlite F&R sprockets?! Tried a 15T front but went back to OEM F&R...
  9. I have a long 14 mm ball end too that I tried but it interfered and didn't think of grinding its circumference let alone flattening the end of the ball I'll have to try that thanks for the suggestion
  10. If you jack up the rear of the engine slightly remove the bolt, clean and Lube it, and then install it reversed so the threads are on the left side, it is much easier to remove the left case guard when it's time to adjust the valves because the left case guard blocks access to the crank bolt and timing mark port If you look at my photos I already have some great driving lights and highway pegs that work very well
  11. Uh, yes, that's one more result but physics and geometry are a multifaceted science often clouded in black magic...and I'm also an engineer who has been playing with bikes (and raced) and ultralights since the early 70s, so I've learned a thing or two. I love a short swing arm, steep geometry and my as in the air, makes stoppies SO easy! Wag that tail!
  12. OK Speedy. I'm old, anal retentive with OCD, and clean everything before, during and after disassembly with a tooth brush. At least the torque wrench in my right wrist speeds things up.
  13. "because you can't go out and ride it because it's -20 degrees Celsius outside" Also chuckled ! I wish it was only -20C (-4F)! LOL My shop though is heated, air conditioned (when it's 36C / 97F with 90% humidity), carpeted, has a frig, mega lighting and outlets every 3 feet plus the ceiling, a sink, urinal, HandyLift, front and rear Pit Bull stands, 20 feet of work bench and 5 feet of tool boxes, a NoMar tire machine, compd air, a window, tunes, WiFi and laptop, a couch and easy chair. Oh, and has room for my 3 bikes. It's rough to work in there...but at least it's detached from the house so I can't hear the wife...
  14. I agree that first removing the swing would make shock service easier but in "a few minutes"? Please detail the steps you follow to remove the swing arm without including having to pull the wheel , rear brake, chain guard, caliper and pads, ABS sensor, and brake hose attachments, which themselves take more than a "few minutes". LOL