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2and3cylinders

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2and3cylinders last won the day on October 9

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About 2and3cylinders

  • Birthday 09/11/1954

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  • Location
    Skokie, IL
  • Bike
    2015 FJ-09FR

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  • location
    Skokie

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  1. What did I start! Yes, I'm afraid it may me an early and harsh winter. We're due 😞 Jeesh, Wintersdark, what did you do to deserve that? It was cold yesterday but easily bareable, didn't need the heated gloves or compression layer over the heated jacket liner. But my riding bud had charging issues so we got started late and consequently later again got delayed. What's worse to me this time of year, besides the cold and wet, is that it's still dark at even 0700, and pitch black by 1830 (and will get worse). Now I have decent driving lights, auxiliary side marker and brake lights, and my old eyes aren't too bad at night, and I like nature's smells you only get after dusk (and catching wiffs of people BBQing, dinner cooking and real log fireplaces) but deer are in rut now, the tarmac has condensation, and the drunks and cellphonaholics seem to venture out at night with the vampires...
  2. The OEM R1 lever does have reach adjustment though the nearest notch is JUST close enough for my preference, and I have size 11 hands with only size 9.5 fingers (hammocks). Apparently, there are 2 types of OEM levers, the 09~14 one I chose has a little knob on the front edge that is awkward to adjust and is unmarked. The other 15 & on mechanism has a horizontal thumb wheel that may be better but may not fit 09~14 which have the Brembo MC.
  3. Whose lever are you using? I ran a Chinese reach/length adjustable and folding lever like I've used on my VTR and for a long time had the same issue as you. I finally bought the matching R1 OEM lever and boom! Problem solved! Short travel with easy, accurate modulation and great bite. I have the Spiegler lines front & rear, and EBC HH+ pads in fron (and may go with Hh i the rear when its time, as the OEM GG just don't have the feel or power I'd like). I prefer the Veteran RJL but not the version Kurvey Girl sells. My first set were ruined when Matt's adjustable compression set screw O-ring leaked fork fluid on my left rotor a second time (I was pissed and just installed his fixed comp valve). Vesrahs just weren't worth the added cost again.
  4. Girding for a ride, high of 45F today, rising a bit mid week up to 56 in a week. Slowly! Getting out the toe warmer pads, heavy weight bicycle tights, heated jacket liner and gloves, even with the headed grips, and Aerostich Transit 2 suit.
  5. Oh, and WD40 was not the ideal ticket, it only worked because it has Kerosene in it (along with oil and that patented perfume smell). A flat plastic probe is real important as it can be used taking it off and slipping it on; you just didn't use enough FinalNet... Acetone squirted in will resoluableize the hair spray if it kicks-off too soon. Ever tune a Mikuni pumper for a 500cc single? If you look there is an aluminum adapter between the Mik and head, I made a few of different lengths and diameters before I found one that worked low and high with my pipe and can, which was like 1450 ~ 6,700 RPM. Nothing the the smell of burning Caster R in the morning and a big single in the canyons!! I think it had a 4 speed, certainly on the right...
  6. Nice! Whose MC, bracket, reservoir and discs? If you look I've got a 14 R1 Brembo MC I grafted an Ebay reservoir to with the bracket I crafted from a DC-10 longeron clip; it's a zinc chromate coated high yield aluminum I coated black after shaping & drilling it, I can't remember what alloy and condition, after all I took it circa 1975. I don't remember anything from the 60s!!! I still have aerospace bits I regularly incorporate all these years later. After 6 years at GD Convair in the late 70s, I went from the 757/757 to designing and fabing advanced composite Funny Car bodies, ultralight Cuyuna 500 engine and landing wheel nascels, and had always been buying, restoring / moding and selling Matchless and AJS basket cases. SoCal was the epicenter of Matchless and AJS in the US. The red beauty (ALL my bikes have been and are red LOL), the lighting makes it look Indian Red, was my personal ride on one of my fave putts, ENE out of SD up to Mt. Palomar and Julian. Those were the days. 🙂
  7. I've changed bars three times, first to a low bar, back to OEM and then to the Street Naked, and used the same procedure I have for eons as I would for any grip I want to save; it's just a bit more difficult due to heated grips stiffness and delicacy. 1. Remove the hand guard bolt and bar end adapter. Duh! 2. Insert a PE plastic flat screwdriver shaped "stick" or "probe" (I use an ancient Tupperware thingy or smooth wood) lubed with clear dielectric grease or similar grease between the bar and grip inward as far as possible without damaging the grip, and move the probe as a "spreader" around the circumference of the bar. 3. Insert the spray "straw" of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner (NO. 05103, iTEM #1003719 but any plastic and rubber safe spray (CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner) next to the probe, and spray between grip and bar working it deeper and deeper and circumferentially, then pull the grip off. Be sure to have the bar slid to the right in loosened or out of the bar clamps, and have enough slack in the heated grip wire. Duh again! 4. Clean I.D. of grips with the CRC QD Electric Cleaner or even Isopropyl Alcohol . I use unscented "Aqua Net Professional Hold" hair spray as my grip cement... Good Luck!
  8. Oy Veh! So much to do about nothing LOL If you have a rear pit stand you may be able to get it high enough to get some type of tub or even take a cardboard box and put a plastic bag in it in duct tape it around the box and fill it with water once it's under the wheel. 50 lb minimum you can take the valve stem cap off 2 don't worry about damaging the Schrader valve cuz you're going to be changing it anyway. Easy peasy can of corn as they say on the farm!
  9. I said isn't 91 considered premium whatever works for you
  10. Of course I agree but isn't 91 considered "Premium"
  11. Raising your rear ride height is the proper way to go rather than changing your rear sag again I don't know what shock you have I can't remember If you don't have adjustable ride height your only option is to increase preload in the rear and possibly reduce preload in the front. You can also play with tire pressure as you have. I would not suggest raising the fork tubes 5 mm, I think the 24 degrees of rake and 3.9 in of Trail provides quick enough quick turn-in that you don't need raise the forks. Balancing tires sometimes can be tricky I found that my front wheel on my FJ is very difficult to balance and takes a lot of weight for some reason. I'm running the Bridgestone t31 which are also very good. I haven't tried a Michelin on the FJ, the bridgestone's were just too good of a deal. I do run michelins on my other bikes but the latest version I have is maybe a 4.
  12. Huh? Rag? Sometimes around here premium could be a buck more and prices are usually higher but you go to a different town across the highway and maybe $0.10 less it's not till you get in God's country that you can find a cheaper and even then it's hit-and-miss but whenever I find a county that allows e0 91 I use it because it's better than this will I get locally
  13. Maybe mid grade 89 with an octane booster work be ok and cheaper... TESTED: Royal Purple Max Boost Octane Booster - MotoIQ TESTED: Royal Purple Max Boost Octane Booster by Mike Kojima To be...
  14. Running 87 in cooler temperatures without traffic may not cause knocking but during elevated temperatures and in traffic and under high loads 87 may cause detonation The question is is it worth the risk for a couple of bucks a tankful I'm on that side, there have been cases where I have run a lower octane because I knew I was going to be filling up sooner with the proper octane at a better price without doing Dyno runs with a CO and air fuel ratio reading in comparing readings with 87 vs 91 would be the only way to verify this and I don't have the motivation to do so
  15. pure-gas.org Search by state then town, even provides coordinates! 91+ resists detonation / preignition / knock better than lower obtain but offers no power advantage, actually 87 burns better. E0, as stated doesn't have ethanol which absorbs H20 and is corrosive and bad for plastic / rubber. Ethanol is a private interest boondoggle... such BS I do not recommend running lower octane than stated but minimum 89 mid grade to save a few shekels but now days 11.5:1 CR is not that high, Aprilia, BMW, KTM have mills up at 13.5:1!
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