Givi 2139 crash bar vs Valve Inspect Adjust

[skipperT]

4 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Case guards and radiator main houses untouched to swap shims, etc...

@2and3cylinders

Hang on a second…

Didn’t you just post above about “why take the time to remove unnecessary items and to just work around them?” (Paraphrased )

so why did you remove the RH crankcase cover to access the cam chain? When there’s no need to inspect the cam chain, guides, etc

I never take that cover off when pulling cams for valve clearance adjustment….

🤣

-Skip

[2and3cylinders]

5 hours ago, skipperT said:

@2and3cylinders

Hang on a second…

Didn’t you just post above about “why take the time to remove unnecessary items and to just work around them?” (Paraphrased )

so why did you remove the RH crankcase cover to access the cam chain? When there’s no need to inspect the cam chain, guides, etc

I never take that cover off when pulling cams for valve clearance adjustment….

🤣

-Skip

Instead of removing the cams completely and having to worry about retiming them, which, for my cross-wired grey matter is a fair amount of work and introduces, for me anyway, even more stress and worry in my life, I index mark and ziptie the chain to the cams (and wedge the chain to the bottom drive cog after removing the right side timing chain cover, chain tensioning slider and its pivot dowel; which takes 5 minutes) to provide ample chain slack to simply move the cams aside (with enough slack to lift and hang the cams out of the way with more zip ties) to readily access the valve lifters and swap shims.  I cleaned and bonded the gasket to the right cover and, knock on plastic, have been able to reuse this  gasket twice now; though I keep a spare gasket in stock.  I also reuse the valve cover and MCCT gaskets.

Again, simply removing the 2 upper radiator bolts and maneuvering the rad to the left and off its lower support peg (after disconnecting, as would also otherwise be required, the overflow hose and fan power lead) and tipping it forward also saves time by obviating the need to disconnect the main hoses, which precludes risking damaging the rubber at the hose clamps.  Eliminating the AIS components post ECU flash also saves time associated with removing and reinstalling those components and affords more open accessibility.

I've developed several little time and part saving "tricks", like applying silicone grease to the ignition coil rubber seals greatly eases and minimizes damage to the coils when removing them from the valve cover.  To save more time, damage and stress, I've bought or made myself special tools, fastener organizing templates, pre-labeled bottles, organizer trays, cleaning solutions and methods, etc.

I learned the methodology of developing such techniques in university and while working in the aerospace industry, where during WW2 the manufacturing and industrial engineering disciplines meticulously honed and fine tuned them with continuous time and motion studies to ensure and improve manufacturing and maintenance efficiencies and QA/QC.  Unlike land bound vehicles, fixed wing, helicopters and rocket powered launch vehicles don't have the luxury of coasting to the side of the road if there is a systems failure.  As an alumni of Convair, I learned there and I still recall almost daily their company moto, "Only Right Is Right!".  Which I immediately took to heart and still apply to most aspects of my life.  It fits very well into a Type A, ADD, Dyslexic and anal retentive personality.  😞

This time, my fourth valve check and second shim swap round, my Handy Lift was not available due to my selfish VTR1000F hogging it, so my old bod suffered badly unfortunately leaning down and over my also fastest red 15 FJ09.  My 76 RD400 is also red, as are my Mazda cage (Zoom Zoom) and boxer briefs.

Sorry for the lengthy discourse but to a certain extent, Skip, you asked for it... 🙂

[skipperT]

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

*Snip*

Sorry for the lengthy discourse but to a certain extent, Skip, you asked for it... 🙂

… and I expected nothing less. 🤣

yeah, that’s too much work for me (pulling the RH cover). What I do is remove the tensioner, zip tie the cams after marking everything and move the exhaust cam out of the way toward the intake cam (if I have enough room, can’t recall if the CP3 allows for that) and remove the buckets and shims. If the cam is in an awkward place, I’ll roll it back over onto the head while I select shims.

Everyone’s method is different, but I like mine better than yours. 🤣

wink. 
-Skip

Edited March 2, 2022 by skipperT

[denveryzf]

A few weeks later, and I finally got all the parts/supplies I needed, and started on the valve check/adjest today. What worked for me  was too remove the very front bolt on the Givi bars, loosen the rear one enough to rotate up a little, and that is all the clearance I needed.

I just finished checking clearances, and all of the exhaust valves are tight  on my GT at 21,500 miles. 2 are at .20mm, 3 at .22, and 1 at .23. The intake valves are all in spec, but both intake valves are in the .12-.13 range on cylinder 3.....cylinder 1 & 2 are in the .13-.15 range. As expected I'll have to remove the CC tensioner, pull the cams aside and do some shim swapping.

I'm also changing the plug ( they look ok ), changing air filter, removing AIS and installing block off plates, swapping coolant, oil & filter, and doing a TB sync. I did at TB sync around 12k miles and it was significantly out of adjustment, will see how it is this time.

Thanks for the suggestions, and many thanks to those who have posted pics & how to's in the past regarding doing the valve check...it is really helping me figure out the points that the service manual is a bit vague about.