TTR Ignition

Interesting is one word for it ...

Yeah - I'm everywhere! 😀

I still remember the nifty sound my RZ350 made as it spat the left-outboard YPVS segment out the side; the PO had installed them *upside-down*, and riding it around was pounding the halves apart.

Fortunately,  the left side has the drive cable, so it was sitting there dangling as I pulled off to the side of the road ...

If it's going to be a track bike, may I suggest a Quick Shifter kit? (Unless it already has one - I keep losing track of which models do and don't come with one!)

Try dropping the front pressure back down to 33psi.

I like the idea of the lights all turning red when you hit the brakes!

@vcyclenut

On 6/23/2020 at 1:58 AM, KillEmAll4u said:

4) Yamaha OEM quick shifter (not a must have until you have it!)

I sell the things, and even I have to concede that for street use they're a toy - but what a wonderful toy! 🤩

I can't beat Partzilla's US$135 price, but I can match it, and I can sure beat their 22-27 days lead time! Order today, it ships out tomorrow!

10mm is a big first step. It will improve turn-in, but it also reduces steering stability. As with any suspension adjustment, make small changes, test, and take lots of notes!

You likely had air trapped in the system that quickly worked its way out. Standard practice for a lot of old riders was to leave the rad cap off while starting the bike after the coolant change, topping up as the air bubbles burped and belched out the filler neck.

36 minutes ago, jdavis said:

If your bike is 15 model, ecu wont take the factory quickshifter, but aftermarket will cover it.

He mentioned finding a "new" non-GT.

The quickshifter is indeed bolt-on and plug'n'play; US$150 plus $15 for the postman, in stock.

*scratching head* I can sell a quick shifter (up only) that won't interfere with the CC, but I can't help you with the auto-blipper.

You plan your tour from gas station to gas station ...

Canyon carving with a passenger wears down the rear tire quite quickly! 🤪

On 4/2/2020 at 12:07 PM, texscottyd said:

100% concur.   I was shocked to find that the nut was barely finger tight on mine, and had moved about 20 degrees from the factory staked location.  I didn’t even need a wrench, and just spun the nut off by hand...  yikes!  

This was a common occurrence with the old FZR line, when someone would forget / neglect to bend the lock washer to hold the sprocket nut in position. It occasionally happened that the nut would go missing altogether, with the sprocket basiclally being held on by the chain!

On 3/26/2020 at 8:03 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

I presume the GYTR shifter doesn't work on a 15...

I've looked at others and up only can be had for under $200 USD but I up shift frequently without touching the clutch lever anyway but auto blip up down units are well north of $500.  Am I wrong?

You're quite correct on all points. The '14-16 models don't have the QS function in the ECU, so you need an add-on controller or a flash. I can provide QS sensor & rod plus a plug-in controller for US$225.

Auto-blip is *much* more complicated and requires more involved programming, so it demands much more money.

17 hours ago, Death Sprockett said:

1. Where are you storing things like registration?

I always just tucked the little folder with license, registration, and insurance in my inside jacket pocket.

Hi, Maximo.

The QS and controller have nothing to do with the flash or APS, so no - it makes no difference if the ECU is flashed or APS adjusted. I don't know how the cruise control bolts up, but the QS controller plugs in via the sidestand switch and rear brake switch.

And yes, the OTD is US$250 + $15 shipping to anywhere in the Continental US.

If you decide you want a quick shifter after all, I can offer a bolt-on plug'n'play shifter kit (2017+), US$150 + $15 for the postman. The '15-16 models need to add a controller, +$100 for a plug'n'play unit.

On 2/15/2020 at 11:31 AM, betoney said:

Its been on my mind for awhile now but much more expensive to fit on the '15-'16 models.😢

US$250 for a plug'n'play shifter kit and controller. Not hugely expensive, but I understand that priorities are priorities!

+1 on cleaning the switch. Strip it very carefully, there are one or more teeny little balls and springs to give you that 'click' feeling. You could have anything from missing contacts to 6lb of caterpillar cocoons.

3 minutes ago, ruenjou said:

Shunt R/R has been on motorcycles for >30 years and it works because the stator coil is oil cooled.

Unless it's not. Yamaha used dry stators for the longest time (FZRs and YZFs at the very least). The early VRRs were weak by design (ground through the casing, no ground wire), but a failed stator was far more uncommon.

Opening a charged coil in close proximity to two other coils can do bad things to those other coils, as well as to other components connected to them. cf 'ignition coil'

3 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

A diode rectifier can't output more voltage, but a transistor certainly can

Only if it's connected to a higher-voltage source. A transistor (or mosfet) connected to 14v (other than at the base) cannot have an output higher than 14v.

I think the 'charging system' data is poorly written, and refers to the nominal DC output, not the AC output.

On 2/11/2020 at 11:18 AM, kilo3 said:

Service manual says stator outputs 14.0VAC, 29.6 A @ 5k rpm.
The rectifier outputs 14.3-14.7 VDC with a capacity of 50A, but that's it's capacity rating, not actual output.
I would guess then based on the stator, you have a total of 38amps at 12 VDC to play around with minus the OEM draw whatever that is.

Not to be rude, but I think you misread the manual (or the manual has a typo). I seriously doubt that the stator output is 14Vac; bike alternators are traditionally in the 30-60Vac range. Not to mention, the RegRec is NOT going to output a HIGHER voltage than the stator! 😉