supersport

I just put Clegg78's kit on my Tracer GT (with a Seat Concepts seat). Thanks a bunch for designing a clean and functional solution to a nagging problem! Installation took 20 minutes. Instructions were great. And no more washers and wheel weights! The Seat Concepts purchase made the seat more comfortable but didn't do much to fix the forward lean. Clegg78's kit has me sitting pretty.

You have a good attitude! Terrible about the accident, though. Best wishes. Glad you had 18 years without a serious wreck before this happened to you. That's pretty good I'd say.

I don't think I'll stay with the Plastidip. It's OK, but it makes me feel like a poor teenager. I'm gonna paint it, or peel it off and go back to original. 

Seat is Seat Concepts.

Sliders from T-Rex Racing, Bestem and GB Racing.

Tank grip from TechSpec.

I just Plasti-dipped the four red body panels on my 2020 GT. Easy to do and easy to undo.

I'll probably paint it black when the Plasti-dip doesn't look as good.

Stopped by the dealer the other day and there I saw a 2020 red Tracer GT, just like the one I bought there last June. Made me think about wrapping or painting my red panels. So I did a mock-up on Photoshop with black panels and I liked it. Took the four panels off and brought them to two wrap shops, but both thought it looked pretty difficult. Huh, what do I know. One guy suggested Plasti-dipping it. I'm not too much into the Plasti-dip thing, but I thought I'd try it since the panels were already off and prepped. Sprayed on five coats yesterday. Now that it's dry and back together, I'm happy with it. If it doesn't hold up,  I think I'll pull it off and paint the panels black.

7 hours ago, betoney said:

If you are having issues with pedal height adjustment and brake light engagement, you could try a hydraulic brake light switch instead.  It completely replaces your existing mechanical brake light switch.  No moving parts so it doesn't get gunked up with road grime and oils and NEVER requires cleaning.

Spiegler Brake Light Switch

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Out of all the hydraulic brake light switches on the market, there's only one...

 

Wow- for only 21 bucks, I'll add one to my next order. Thanks for the info! First I'll see how the brake pedal height is after I install the SCR Adventure foot pegs that are on the way. 

FIXED!

For me anyway. Felt compelled to go back in the garage, turn the lights on and take another look. Cleaned and lubed front brake controls. No change- brake light still on. Checked cable slack because I had installed risers and rotated bars- seems fine. Only other thing I did in the last two days was lower the shifter pedal and brake pedal to help keep my feet on the pegs. Bingo! I had adjusted the rear brake pedal all the way down, which is past where the rear brake light switch engages. Raised it a bit and my brake light was off. I expect the cruise will work on tomorrow's ride, which hopefully won't be to the dealer.

This info is good timing for me. My cruise wasn't working on a long ride I took yesterday. Went out today and still not working. Fuse checked-out fine. Bike still has stock levers. Did a search on this forum and found this thread. Turned the key on and see my brake lights are on all the time. Must be the switch, eh?  I bought the bike new last June and have 3500 miles on it. Guess I'll call the Yamaha dealer tomorrow.

No extra noise that I have noticed. Worth a try.

That sucks. I'll bet you're one to have axle wrenches with. Hope you're back on the road and enjoying the best part of hwy 2.

I've been reading your thread with interest because I was thinking of riding from Pocatello to Duluth and back. I'm from Duluth and have family and friends there. I was gonna take highway 200 east a more southerly back-roads route back. Now you've got me interested in hwy 2. What's with the road closures east of Glacier? Rock-slides not cleaned up yet?

45 minutes ago, betoney said:

Is that rubber or plastic?  Does it compress when the swingarm pivots upward?

It's plastic- about like a bleach bottle. I have 1" of the rounded tip inserted through the slot in the stock fender. It looks like it will slide and bend enough to work. We'll see.

I made a poor man's shock guard for my Tracer GT. Was looking at the Pyramid guard and it reminded me of the $8 front wheel mud guards that I have on my mountain bikes. Took one off a bike, cut it to be 6" long, drilled four holes using the bracket as a template. Helps to have an 18" extension on a 13mm socket to reach beyond the bodywork and get those four bolts out.

12 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

Hi all,

I currently have a Madstad screen and want to use a RAM Mount so I can use my phone GPS on the bike.

I believe the Madstad mounting bracket is designed to facilitate the Ram Mount.

Do I just get the standard ball base or is there a special base that I'm supposed to get?

This clutch/brake mount is a little less obtrusive and aligns perfectly with the Madstad holes.

Where do you live, RW? I'm in Idaho now, but I grew up in Duluth and get back there often.

Being an older rider. I started out with Triumph's from the 60''s, when they were as good (or bad) as anything else out there. My prettiest Triumph had to be this 1973 TR5T.

Yes, sort of in the high country. I moved here from Madison WI after retiring last year. I'm at 5600 feet and it's a 25 minute ride to town (Pocatello) on the twistiest road ever. I hope to spend the rest of my time exploring around here. I also have a DR650 that gets me camping to some out-of-the-way places.

My friends are all in the Midwest and they sure get lots of snow up here (we used a plow truck and front-end loader for the 300" we got last winter) and it snowed three times in June, but the view from the house never gets old. Non-Chicago Illinois visitors are always welcome.

And that's why I joined the forum. Thanks, 2/3.

More curious than anything. I heard it was a common thing to do on these bikes, but I wanted to ask in the forum. I know some bike models get more positive results from doing this than other models do. 5mm made a night-and-day difference to a 2002 Honda RC51 I once had.

Just got the bike and haven't even set the sag yet, but have been paying attention to how the suspension feels. I stiffened the rear preload a bit. You're right- I need a baseline. I think I'm gonna drop the yokes 5mm, put preload back to stock setting, set the sag and go from there.

Thank you. I'll start with 5mm to see how it feels.

Howdy- Just bought a 2020 Tracer GT here in SE Idaho and am ready for the 600 mile oil change. Decided to change a few things after 600 miles of riding and from reading this forum, so ordered a Madstad screen and  Seat Concepts seat kit and installed a fender extender, radiator guard and bar risers.

I got the risers from MotoPumps and in the instructions he discusses allowing for cable slack and says it's common to drop the forks 10mm on these bikes and that it improves turn-in. Anyone here done that on their Tracer? I've done it with some of my other road bikes with positive results.