vespadaddy
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Posts posted by vespadaddy
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Yes, that's the link he posted, but if you scroll up a few posts and hit the link I posted from Kouba, you'll get free shipping. I just ordered a set yesterday.
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Here you go:
http://www.koubalink.com/mirror.html
If you order directly from Koubalink, shipping is free.
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If you replace your OEM drain plug with a plug that uses a different sealing device (o-ring vs crush washer), I hope you have the background fastener knowledge to ensure that this new plug won't be more likely to back out from vibration and simultaneously oil your rear tire AND cook your motor.I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?) Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads. $3.62.
Personally, I do not, so I would be reluctant to install such a different fastener than OEM, especially on such a crucial, oil sealing application. Maybe a machinist will weigh in?
Personally, I like to safety wire my oil drain plugs. It's probably overkill for a streetbike, but it is easy to do, and there must be SOME reason that roadracing clubs require it...
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The above statement doesn't square with my personal experience. I bought a new R6 in 2003, and by 2006, the brake performance had deteriorated noticeably. This bike never saw the track. New braided steel lines had the bike stopping better than new.Just a quick FYI. All high pressure lines these days have braiding material built in-it just may not be metal. Nylon typically isn't used in high temp applications, but other stronger materials can & are used. Otherwise the lines will balloon a bit, which is not ideal. The last time this was ever an issue was in the 1960's.
Inside the FJ muffler
in FJ-09 Exhaust
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