Cornersruns

The ones on AliExpress seem to be a copy of Steve Downers,  Buy them from Steve they work really well.  Mines been mounted for 3 years on my 900GT still working perfectly.

10 hours ago, forcooler said:

 

In Europe, the maintenance interval is 12 months or 10000km(6000miles).

Which ever comes first.  When you have done 1000Km but less than 12 months since last service, it's time for a service.  If you get to 12 months since last service, it's time for a service.

I assume the Zumo has a cradle.

Much better solution is to hard wire it. The connectors for the spare aux power are easily available and the removal of the screen and cowl are really easy.  1 hour job even if your really slow.

After oil filler cap came off mid ride 😰 I need to replace the rear pads as they are contaminated with oil.

Are there any other parts required with the pads, pins, shims etc that should be replaced at the same time?

Plan is remove old pads, good clean of disc and calliper with brake cleaner, fit new pads.  Sound reasonable.

Any advantage of using genuine yamaha pads or what make of replacement recommended>

Cheers

2 hours ago, Bill H said:

sounds like cheap chains with Yamaha 

I heard that it was a faulty batch from DID, but no proof of that.

The 6000 miles was all pleasure riding 🙂 I no longer commute on the bike.

6 hours ago, KrustyKush said:

2021 here six weeks old with 2100 miles on it.  Chain is perfect.  What do you use for lube?

Yamaha approved a warranty replacement for me @ 6000 Miles.

Check if it needs front brake switch recall.

If you haven't already set up the suspension properly, or pay someone to do it, it makes a big difference to handling.

2 hours ago, Pupsi said:

The sat-nav mount is a nice setup, with a much better line of sight of the GPS. The price is also great.

What I'm worried about, however, is the force exerted on the plastic windscreen mount. My Garmin Zumo is quite heavy and with the arm that attaches to the ball mount there will be additional leverage on the windscreen mount.

Another thing - there is discussion on this forum that a GPS mounted directly above the instrument panel would be affected by interference from the panel. Has this been experienced by anyone?

All I can say is with the tomtom rider, not sure how the weight compares to the Garmin but it is a heavy unit, on a ram ball arm there are no signs of fatigue on any of the bike or mount components.

I've never had any interference issues with the TomTom, from what I remember reading it was only Garmins that suffered from interference.

I've had mine for a 1 year and it's still going strong.  Thread lock applied to ram ball mount, as recommended in the instructions.  I probably added thread lock to the side screws as well but I can't remember if I did, I just normally use thread lock on stuff like this.  It's been mounted for 6000 miles and no problems at all, I also have an MRA vario screen, I'm just about to change it for a Puig sports screen so will see what that is like.

Mine has a TomTom Rider 400 mounted and the view of the satnav is fantastic, the high mount position means it is easy to view.  I've not had any problems with glare on the screen in this position (I assume you added the glare shield as I don't believe this is included with the mount, unless Steven has changed the design?) This is the best satnav mount I have ever used, Steven has done a fantastic job on this.  Mounting on the handle bars, as I have done on previous bikes always meant looking down a long way but this high position is much better.

I can't recommend this mount highly enough it is the dogs nadgers 🙂  Steven lists it as shipping worldwide so no excuse not to buy one.

17 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I've heard the "water and sediment" argument lots of times over the years, but I've honestly never once encountered it as a real issue.  I'd be totally unsurprised to see it on older bikes (that story has to come from somewhere, right?)

 

Maybe it was due to lower quality fuel or poorly maintained tanks at fuel stations.  This is going back a few years now as it seems these stories mostly come from the days of carburettors, many years ago.  In these days of extreme litigation I would not be surprised if fuel station owners are very careful about the storage of fuel, even then there a a few cases contaminated fuel in the recent past and the reputation on the culprits was severely damaged.  Fuel stations seem to be regularly updated, to the extent that the storage tanks are removed and replaced, much more frequently than I wold expect.  There must be a reason for the companies to go to such a high cost so frequently.  Not only the cost of the upgrade but also the lost revenue as the stations need to be shut for many weeks.

I've never ridden a carbed bike, not that I am young just that I only started riding about 12 years ago.  I've never had crap or water in the tank on any of my bikes.

17 hours ago, Skidood said:

Did you run out of fuel?

No, no signs of fuel shortage, bike was running fine.  Just checked when I filled up I put 17.62L in :-0

38 miles on F-trip after fuel low warning light came on is my record 😰

Vibrations are the only thing that, slightly, concerns me.  Over time they can do considerable damage.  But your experience has reduced those concerns 🙂

Just got round to fitting the sound bomb mini, I took off my old bike.  Fitted it to the existing bracket and had to bend the bracket a bit to avoid hitting the radiator on full lock.

From what I've seen most people who fit the sound bomb mini do this.  The only, minor, concern is that the horn now touches the top of the fork leg, I've put some protective tape on the horn body so hopefully there won't be any wear.  Also the brake hoses are close to the horn now.  The hoses have a protective sleeve over then where they are near the horn so wear hopefully won't be an issue.

I shall keep an eye on things in case of abrasion but has anyone noticed any abnormal wear to the horn, brake hose or shock tube?

Always pops on overrun as you go down past 4000 revs.

But it's not Easter!

Bloody ugly, the red parts of the plastics make me think of bikes like this:

9 hours ago, piotrek said:

@Cornersruns... this did not do the trick. It's a rod with a threaded end. The jam nut secures it against the lower assembly (extension in my case). Appears that the joint is a factory fit. Am I completely missing something here?

Did you try rotating the rod in both directions.  Yours is on the brake side? Sorry can't help further.  That's what worked on mine, only the clutch side mirror worked loose.  After this ball joint has been perfect.

2 hours ago, piotrek said:

Anyone know if this knuckle joint (photo) can be tightened? My RH side is a pretty sloppy fit, and I need to adjust every time I ride over a nasty rail crossing or such. The socket piece has some movement, but only about 1/8 turn at best (with dead stop resistance), and doesn't seem to make any difference. Will buy new mirror(s) if needed, but if there is another way...

See my post above about tightening this joint.

20 hours ago, kilo3 said:

This has got to be a troll account, or it's working up to it at this point.

The fact that simon1963 gave a thumbs up to this speaks for itself.  Please do not feed the Trolls, their self inflated egos are all the sustenance they need.

I would urge nobody to follow the advice of simon1963.  His riding sounds dangerous.

On 6/28/2019 at 12:08 AM, Coop said:

LOL!!  I have my mirrors stems tight and they won't move, except......now the mirrors them selves are moving.  Riding a calm 70 mph with a little head wind they are soon pointed at my chest.  It has been  that kind of week.  LOL!   Will Rizoma mirrors stay adjusted?

My clutch side mirror started dropping yesterday, just the mirror housing the stem is tight and doesn't move, it was vibration from bumps dropping the mirror and housing downwards, at the ball joint, so all I could see was my boot and gear shifter :-{

 So the fix is:

Under the rubber boot, at the base of the stem, is a lock nut, loosen the locknut and rotate the stem anticlockwise, i.e. towards the front of the bike, about 30 - 45 degrees.  Tighten up the locknet.  Then you have to rotate the mirror down to get a good rear view.  This tightened the ball joint and my mirror now stays put :-)

1 hour ago, thewrenchbender said:

had two unique keys, you could program the car to accept new ones without needing any external assistance/“red” key...

Honda have the same system, you get 2 keys and can program a new key using either of them.

I suppose that having a seperate programming key has a small advantage that if the bike is stolen with one key you can't program new ones.  Whereas with the Honda, and similar systems, with one key you can add more.  From memory the Honda HISS system allows 4 keys in total to be programed.

WOW, I am surprised.  I thought that immobilisers were fitted as standard worldwide.  Is it a USA legislation thing?