RollIt

14 hours ago, betoney said:

The 2016 FJ09 does not have compression adjustability on the fork, so the big difference between a re-valve and complete cartridge replacement would be that the cartridges would have one leg that has compression adjustability and the other with rebound adjustability.  
 

so, do you suggest i go for complete cartridge replacement myself? I can handle most repairs if i have the tools but i don't have any fork tools.  I believe complete cartridge replacement would not need entire set of tools, is that right?

I threw in the towel. Instead of getting a new or different bike, i'm going for suspension upgrade on my 2016 FJ09. I'm given USD 2100 estimate including labor to do springs and piston swap (all k-tech)+ shock (k-tech RR). 

I was wondering if i should save on labor and use the savings to do a cartridge kit drop instead. Does it make any sense?

On 12/30/2022 at 11:38 AM, Lone Wolf said:

I put a Scottoiler on one of my bikes last year. Adjusted to 1 drop a minute, the chain looks slightly wet and stays clean because it is designed to fling off some oil with any grit and dirt.

I had put a very expensive DID chain on, wanted it to last longer than the one I took off. I do get speckles of oil on the rim, but none where the "rubber meets the road". For me it is workable.  Whenever it is time to replace that chain, I doubt there will be any "stiff links" and it will simply be worn along with the sprocket.

My 1973 royal enfield had something inbuilt for self lubrication ( i think breather pipe routed to chain). Was always a mess lol. I'm sure these new systems should be a lot better.

i've been away for a while but just wanted to update on this issue. It was the most unusual root cause. under lubricated chain. I noticed couple of times that the sound would reduce or completely go away after chain cleaning, tightening and lubricating before returning after few hard rides. So i started lubricating the chain more than i did earlier and life is all ok now. lol

2016 FJ09 - 40k miles

Something seems to be catching something in lower gears (1-4) Weird periodic unusual sounds (sounds metal to metal touch) from clutch side.

Even with engine off, bike in gear, clutch pulled in, it doesn't roll freely for entire rotation.  Something blocks the movement and makes a lound metal to metal touch sound at a particular point engine rotation. Something similar as if clutch was not pulled in. With little force i does move but make that sound.

I got valves adjusted, did couple of calm rides and it was OK. Then 3rd ride was very spirited with  high speeds at lower gears, and then this sound started.

Any idea what it could be? Did i break something in gear box/clutch or something was not tight enough while putting back the valves/cam-shaft/etc?

The engine revs perfectly without any sounds when not in gears. It doesn't make that sound when rolling at 8mph in 1st gear (with throttle at idle)

TIA!

On 4/21/2021 at 2:32 PM, HGP61 said:

I don't have a front axle stand but the center stand for the back wheel then a car jack and block of wood under the front of the engine lifted up a little for the front wheel removal front axle then put back in to support front of bike on a car axle stand while I took the wheels to the tyre fitter worked a treat.

now i'm wondering why i bought front paddock stand 

2 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Could have reinstalled rear axle, then car jack would be centered and 100% safe.

Thanks for the tip! I'll do that!

ok, looks like its feasible. I used a car jack at rear swing arm/frame slider for some support at rear, sorry don't have rear paddock yet

Thanks for your replies!

I ride a 2016, and usually get  on/off shudder on cold engine (1st 2-3 miles) if chain slack is on extreme end of spec on either side. Fix chain slack and/or warm up engine enough and life is good.

Has anyone used just front paddock stand and centre stand to lift front for wheel removal?

Currently my bike is on centre stand with rear wheel already removed. 

Could i lift the front with paddock stand only (+ centre stand) with rear wheel already removed?

On 3/14/2021 at 8:26 AM, Ride365 said:

Total overkill IMHO and is true racing oil and formulated that way, however I run Motul 7100 10W40 ester synthetic and won't be using anything else going forward.

based upon your "won't be using anything else going forward." comment and backed up by cyclegear guy at the shop (though his 1st recommendation was 300v), i changed to motul 7100 yesterday. Oh boy!! what a difference! The motor just came alive. Feels like a different beast all together (for reference, 4000 miles earlier i used Mobil 1 4T racing). I was not checking engine temperature lately so don't know if running cooler, but its definitely less noisy (i can actually enjoy the exhaust note now). 

I picked up 2016 model (24k miles on it) 6 months ago (my first Yamaha) but was never impressed by it untill yesterday. Had a big smile all day today on a full day ride along twisties and freeways!

On 2/23/2021 at 3:53 PM, fddriver2 said:

Ok. Ya got me thinking. Not an easy feat. 

A 20 minute ride home from lunch at a highway speed limit of 65mph. Not that I was anywhere near that speed. A 15 minute ride in traffic to the house. In the garage on the center stand running in neutral. No wheel spin, at all.

In gear about 7mph wheel spin, with the clutch in. My boot against the tire stopped the spin after about 6 or 7 revolutions. For the record. That's more than I thought it would take.🤷‍♂️

Shift to neutral. No wheel spin, clutch position made no difference. Bike has 53,000 miles. Has run flawlessly the whole time.

IMO. All is fine. YMMV. 

Quit worrying go ride.

As long as someone else also got 7mph in gear (clutch pulled in) and took 6-7 revs to stop with foot (didn't i tell you it was weird? ) , i can stop worrying 🧘‍♂️and go for a ride 🏇

And thanks a lot for going through the pain to do all this just to bring a fellow rider to peace 

5 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

In gear with the clutch pulled in? Or in neutral.?  My question is. After you rode it around did you try both ways? Also can you slow or stop the wheel spinning with a little friction? ie. Putting your foot against the side of the tire.... 

Enquiring minds want to know. 😀

 

Enquiring and curious minds indeed 

In gear with clutch pulled in, both before and after ride it spins at same speed 8mph. It stops putting foot against tire but it takes an effort (of course 'takes an effort' is relative)

On 2/18/2021 at 6:03 PM, fddriver2 said:

This might help explain it. FTR I didn't know you were talking about "in gear clutch pulled in" (Engaged or dis-engaged depending on who you talk to. )

"Its not that they are engaged in neutral, its that they are all next to each other, with oil between them, and they aren't far apart, they are sort of sitting against each other dragging.

And as is often the case they are Constant mesh designs as well meaning the gears are in engagement, and they have to be "linked" to the output by the means of sliding collars.

So your clutch drags a bit even when pulled in, your gears drag a bit even in neutral, and your wheel will turn a bit, even in neutral with the clutch in.

BUT you will find you can stop the wheel fairly easily.

I would even suggest that if your wheel doesn't turn a bit you probably have something too tight, chain tension, wheel bearing preload, or the bearings aren't very smooth. Something to check.

Rear wheel turns even with Clutch depressed | Adventure Rider (advrider.com)

Thanks for the reference.

However if its just oil drag then it should slow down after engine/oil heats up. In my case it spins equally fast (8mph) whether engine is cold or hot.

On 2/17/2021 at 1:05 PM, peteinpa said:

It's still nothing to worry about, but, what oil are you using? Clutch need less cable slack?

When mine is cold it will spin in neutral, not fully at engine speed but slightly.

Mobil-1 10W40 oil

Clutch slack is OK. It starts to engage only after i've released slightly less than half way.

Cold in neutral spins just a bit, but 8mph in 1st gear with clutch pulled in is baffling!

On 2/11/2021 at 5:58 PM, fddriver2 said:

Normal. When the oil warms up. It will stop 

ok, here's the update. It didn't stop after warming up (after 1 hour riding)!

Even with hot engine it spins at same 8mph. 

Something to worry/fix now?

Thank you everyone, i think i should stop fretting about it!

7 hours ago, duhg said:

Mine is very similar.  The wheel spins more as you described than any of the 9 previous bikes I've owned.  Pushing it around in the garage requires the transmission be shifted to neutral.  On the road, at stop signs, in parking lots, etc... I don't notice any problem.

yeah it feels a bit of work to roll backwards, that's why i was worried if something is wrong. Thanks for sharing your experience!

4 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

It is a good speed to lube the chain.

haha i found it during lubing the chain itself

2016 FJ09, Bike on centre stand, when i put 1st gear (clutch pulled in) the rear wheel spins at 8mph at idle throttle. Release the clutch completely and it still spins at 8mph. This is with cold engine at around 65F ambient temperature. I didn't check with warm/hot engine yet.

Is this normal clutch drag? 

Hello fellow riders,

After doing a day trip on rented 2002 FZ1 i was sure i have to start riding again  What a bike it is!!!! 

Picked up a 2016 FJ09 couple of months ago and have clocked 2000 miles on it already  Got to see San Francisco Bay Area like never did in last two years!!

Completed oil change, chain adjustment/cleaning/lubing, cables lubing, etc and ready to roll again before rain gods descend down here in bay area.

See ya around......