Windster

For ECU to sence a wheelie there is no need any more than abs sensors, if front is poping up it means rear wheel turns faster than front, so TC kicks in and cuts power, simple. Other is wheelie control, it needs much more sensors.

Two TC modes are only from '17 model. To do wheely hold TC button for few seconds, it will turn off TC, until you restart engine.

I have exactly same problem on my 16' Tracer. I think it could be many thinks. In a month or so I will be doing some tweeks with the bike ( new brakes 320mm and lines, Ape cam chain tensioner, new clucth basket dampers) and I will try to sort this problem. Wil start with:

TB cleaning and synching.

Check for vacuum leak.

Check AIS system

Check for gas tank ventilation.

Check fuel pressure especially at starts.

Will additionly check spark plugs and valve clearances as I recenty had a problem with chain tensioner at low rpms.

2 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Thanks @Windster!   That’s the post I was looking for…  I see that I even responded to it when you posted last year.   Is that support brace bolt method still holding up for you?  

Yeas, it is still like I did it . This year had about 5k km. trip and another 2k km. in short trips . No issues with this mod.

usually in cars temperature sensor is mounter in such place, so numbers wont vary mucth, but in some car models (older Alfa Romeo for eg.) it is mounted in sucth place, that numbers at gauge is going up and down a lot.Same is in motorcycles.Also Yamaha 3CP engineis normally running at about 70 deg.cel.annd goes up only when hot or going very slow speed.It is normal.

Had the same problem during my last year trip in Alps. Managed to make holes under these plastic pads. Then lifted up fallen plastic to place and  srewed in some M6 bolts through these holes. Done about 4000 km's after that mod. No problems.

2 hours ago, OZVFR said:

Installed the Healtech Quick Shifter. 
now need to go ride to set it up properly 

I have installed same QS few years ago. I was riding with thin sports boots and it was perfect, until I chanded to more bulky boots. Had to do adjustmets . Now still sometimes getting false neutral, especialy from 5 to 6 gears. I have removed one of the washers, because it was not sensitive enaugh. My settings: 

Cut-off times now is at auto, before it was different.

Yeas, just cut some peace of plastic fastening strap, and put it in side of outlet while inserting your usb adapter. Just leave a little bit of strap hanging outside, to be able to eject your adapter.

All motorcycle front street tires has different tread direction from back tire, mainly for better braking performance. Read this to understant more > http://sgbikerboy.com/2016/12/26/why-do-motorcycle-front-and-rear-tires-have-opposite-tread-patterns/

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/1RC-26132-00-00?ref=179fc8ba157afb14fe139bb5c98ee595e80beb9c

It should be radiator mounting bolt nut, those loops hold the clutch cable on the left side, don’t remember what it holds on the right side

4 hours ago, Instinct28 said:

Just got my 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 in July. The rear was worn out already. 1st replacement was Shinko Raven now need to replace it after about 4000mi. I got a Pirelli Angel ST. We'll see how it goes. I wanted a Michelin Road 5 but I saved $100.

My tracer had Pirelli Angel ST in front when I bought it, and it was horrible at hard braking, but looked almost as new. ABS was kicking in every time I brake harder on tarmac, changed it to Michelin road 5 as soon as I could.  I have used before many different models of Michelins, Metzelers and Dunlops and loved it. With bridgestone I had problems with front cupping. Last few tires was only michelin road. Currently back tire is road 5 and front will be changed to road 6 in a moth after this year season will start.

8 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Answering myself -  Looks like it can be used for both up and down but sensor should be installed on shift arm bolt (recommended) and not the shift rod.

Yeah, but for downshifts, you need to blip throttle, and as it dosn't have an auto blipper, you will have to do it manually. And there is a question would a QSE let you blip throttle if it would cut of ignition on downshift.
I acctualy bought a Healtech iQSE for my 16' Tracer, but did not installed it yet. But I do not expect to use it for donwshift.

I have done the same test, with the same gauge 😉 . One disc is almost perfect, and other disc is on the limit to spec shown in service manual. Also done that test to wheel rim itself, found little bit bent in one place, but no vibration's wihle riding.

On my wheel rim those unpainted surfaces is in the same hight level with wheel rim side surface or if you look at mid between unpainted surfaces, where disk rim side plate has some left edge's ( from mashining I guess ) it is even at higher level than unpainted surfaces.

Maybe it was bent somehow, and then mashined and repainted. Could not know that now , but fact is , brake discs is way to close to wheel rim center, and looks like sometimes even touching inner side of calipers . Other way is to leave those washers which I have instaled, and hope there won't be any problem on agressive braking. So far I have done about 2000 km. with washers installed, had no problem. But safety first, so dont want to leave like that.

7 hours ago, Denideul said:

Here is a pic of my 2019 GT :

Do you see the same thing on the reverse disc ?

Yeah, both discs are installed deeper in to wheel rim. On my foto's there is installed 1,5 mm thick stainless steel washers between rim and discs, to get them more in center of the calipers.

Thanks 👍,

now I see, brake disk is clearly out farther . I guess , I will go for a new wheel rim.

Hello,

A bit of history...

I have 2016 mt09 tracer (Europe), bought it 1,5 years ago, with 24k. kilometers on clock and done 16k. km,s on it.

Few months ago, just before my last 3 day 1500 km trip I was checking brake pads, all fluids and so on. And.. spotted interesting think, front brake disks was not  exactly at the center of brake caliper,s , discs was allmost touching the inner side ( closer to wheel center ) of brake calipers ( don,t know how I didn,t see that before.. ). At that time, I ended up with taking off brake discs and putting about 1,5 mm stainlles steel washers between discs an wheel rim, to get discs almost in center of calipers.

Now, I was doing big maintenance 40000 km, valves, filters, fluids, and other. And as it is winter time, I want to solve problem with front brakes. Started to inspect all and  I spotted some strange edges on wheel rim. Looks like the former owner of the bike, for some reason, had trimmed a surface on a wheel rim, where brake discs is mounted. The paint looks like original, but on the wheel rim side plates, between brake disk bolts,  I can see some left edges from trimming.

Question is, can some one make a foto or measure the distance of the front wheel plate where brake disc bolts are, to see how deep brake disc is sitting on a wheel rim.  And if someone could measure the distance between front brake dics, would be a lot help .

Looked like bike didnt had any accidents, but now might need a new front wheel...

Sorry for my english