Northern900

I dunno. The stock one looks great and is nice and quiet!  

On 1/3/2023 at 5:07 PM, liverpool1 said:

Hi guys, I know 'I'm a little late to the party. Going to do the clutch mod over the next few weeks and just wondering if you guys replaced the clutch friction plates and if you did any suggestions on a brand that works well or just OEM parts.

 

Thanks

I didn’t do the mod as described by the OP, but I did replace my clutch basket with a new, updated one. I did not replace the plates or any other parts except for the nut that holds the clutch basket in place. Completely solved the ‘vibration’ issue. 

On 8/31/2022 at 11:39 AM, duckie said:

Yall must sit alot idling…….I never hear the rattling while idling. I got 21k on mine and the rattle aint no big deal…..but then again I had a duc with a dry clutch and the rattle was normal. 
 

Me thinks some people are just too picky. If ya havent picked up on it…..replacing the rubbers or basket, the rattle still come back. 
 

And if ya are in 6th at 3500 trying to accelerate, you are lugging the engine and its not gonna like it. 

Also…..the engine does smooths out somewhat as more miles are on it. Full synthetic really helps. 

The tire I have on the front smoothed out the feel in the bars also. Treaded tires will wiggle more than tires that have very little thread pattern. 

This was a definite feeling only present at around 3200 rpm when cruising at a steady speed in any gear. There is also some vibration through the pegs, but that’s just the bike. Also a noise when at idle with the clutch engaged. Also just the bike. But the 3200rpm thing was definitely different and has been cured with the basket change. 

On 8/31/2022 at 7:39 AM, Yamajank said:

I suggested to one shop that they replace the basket under my YES and they him-hawwed around like well, if that’s what it is I guess, but we’ll have to check it out, etc.  I don’t want to be unscrupulous about it but at the same time, I want this sort of thing covered like betoney has mentioned. 

Given that Yamaha has a new part number for the basket suggests that they did a redesign because they were aware of a problem. 

Also search “gronk”. 

On 8/11/2022 at 6:01 PM, Grumpy Goat said:

Both cost $313 at Partzilla. Looks like the new one is for 2021 and up. How did you know that this was the solution? Was there a thread that discussed this?

3 minutes ago, Northern900 said:

There was another thread that talks about this. Many people have fixed the issue by drilling out rivets that hold the steel drive gear to the aluminum clutch basket (it comes as one assembly), replacing the rubber shock mounts in there, then booting them back together. It’s a good fix, but I elected to just replace the basket. I think that the other thread used the word ‘gronk’ to describe the issue. I’ll try to find it. 

Search “Roughness and noise at low throttle openings”

On 8/11/2022 at 9:40 PM, betoney said:

FWIW, before my 4+1 YES warranty expired, my Yamaha shop replaced mine twice, (original plus 2 replacements). 
they seem to last about 20k miles before getting noisy again - at least in my case. 
I just turned over 70k miles this morning, so according to my trend I have about 10k more miles before clutch basket #4, except next time it comes out of MY pocket. 

Time will tell!  I’ll report back in 20,000 miles or so 😀

On 8/11/2022 at 6:01 PM, Grumpy Goat said:

Both cost $313 at Partzilla. Looks like the new one is for 2021 and up. How did you know that this was the solution? Was there a thread that discussed this?

There was another thread that talks about this. Many people have fixed the issue by drilling out rivets that hold the steel drive gear to the aluminum clutch basket (it comes as one assembly), replacing the rubber shock mounts in there, then booting them back together. It’s a good fix, but I elected to just replace the basket. I think that the other thread used the word ‘gronk’ to describe the issue. I’ll try to find it. 

So, I finally got around to a fix.  I changed out the clutch basket with the updated part number (the old part number is 1RC-16150-00-00 and the new one is B7N-16150-00-00).  I did not go through the clutch basket repair procedure that I have seen on this forum.  Didn't really have access to the tooling needed to drill out the old rivets etc.  The good news is that the replacement of the clutch basket (which was an easy job) solved the issue.  The bike is now smooth as silk.  As long as it doesn't blow up now, I think we're all set.  

If you don’t properly heat up and liquify that red loctite before you attack it with an impact, the hard loctite will ‘ball’ up an damage the threads on the shaft as the nut is turned off. Using an impact on such a job is not dangerous as long as you’re careful. 

Yamaha Canada does have them apparently. More $, but I have one coming now. 

On 11/11/2021 at 5:53 PM, Northern900 said:

I found some in stock at Babbitts Online. Fits the 2019 tho, may not fit the 2021. Price was right!

I take it back. I ordered it, but now am told that it’s delayed indefinitely 🤔

I found some in stock at Babbitts Online. Fits the 2019 tho, may not fit the 2021. Price was right!

Me too. I’m pissed. Cause I waited for the top case to be in stock at Revzilla, thinking I’d order both at the same time. Only to find that when the case became available, the racks were out of stock!!  I have t been able to find one either. But, I do hav e a case 😀

On 11/5/2021 at 1:11 PM, bwringer said:

Congrats on your GRONK-free experience!

I don't think this is a safety issue, and it's not really causing any undue wear. It's just annoying as hell. So it wouldn't become a recall.

I don't know how frequent this is, but maybe it's not enough bikes to warrant an official TSB. It's also very hard to describe or define, and constantly gets confused with normal clutch-out-neutral-rattle as we see over and over in this thread.

We need Yamaha to make and sell lots more bikes with this engine so that everyone has a chance to see and hear at least a few others and better understand what's normal. I think isolation causes a lot of undue anxiety for this and many other motorcycles.

 

 

 

Got it; sounds like you're a GRONK-er AND a rattler.

Changing the outer clutch basket CAN make a difference in the rattle when the clutch is out in neutral. But it may or may not, depending on how bad your rattle was, how good your ears are, and general tolerance stack-up.

It honestly didn't make much difference in mine, and to my widely experienced ear, I've never once felt the rattle was a concern. I also suspect that the rattle varies quite a bit due to the way tolerances might stack up, and of course tolerance for the rattle depends on the rider and his or her ears.

Over on the V-Strom forum, there are a lot of refugees from dry clutch BMWs, and every last one of them seems to panic when their clutch rattles and the rear wheel spins when running on the centerstand.

More than once I've solved an "OMFG MAH BIKE IZ DED" complaint by placing one finger on a clutch lever that's rattling and dancing around...

 

Anyway, to determine parts compatibility, visit one of the many online parts sellers and do a little sleuthing.

Here's the clutch fiche for a local online parts shoppe near me (VERY handy!):

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/546a26ccf87002164cb2801f/clutch

You'll notice that #1 shows two part numbers. The first is crossed out, and the part number has been superceded to a new part number. This indicates that it's a direct replacement.

Primary Driven Gear Comp
1RC-16150-00-00 (old)
B7N-16150-00-00 (new)

To cross-reference a part number, back out to the Yamaha Motorcycle Parts page, and paste it in on the right:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts

Thusly:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/yamaha_motorcycle?partsearch=b7n-16150-00-00

Then, you can click "where used" on the right to see a listing of which models use this part number.

The first listing is for all models (it includes older models where the part was superceded), and the second is for models where it was original (2021 only, in this case).

Click the first "where used" and you'll see that this clutch basket part number appears on the clutch fiches for and is compatible with all CP3 engine models 2014-2021; FZ, FJ, XSR, MT, Niken, and Tracer.

So yes, B7N-16150-00-00 will work with your bike. Since it's a different part number, I'm hoping that it represents an upgrade. However, I have no idea whether this is true. The parts are externally identical down to the casting marks, and the updated bits would be on the inside anyway. And of course Yamaha shares no information.

Rinse and repeat this process for other parts...

 

In my case, there are a couple of large dealers near Indy (Partshark and Online Cycle Parts) that sell parts at a discount online, and allow me to go pick up the parts in person and save shipping. OCP is a little cheaper and closer, so I used them for the basket.

But when I did the slipper upgrade, I used Partshark because they had done the research and put together a kit with a nice discount.

Both order their parts from the same Yamaha warehouses; dealers generally do not stock any parts.

 

Unless your clutch plates are damaged by abuse, it's extremely unlikely that you would actually need new clutch plates, springs, or other parts.

If your bike has a slipper clutch stock, then there are three rubber cushions in the hub that I would replace any time it's apart.

And of course, you will need a clutch cover gasket and a new nut. The nut is 90179-20010-00 and is in the clutch fiche, and the clutch cover gasket is on the "Crankcase cover 1" fiche, 1RC-15461-00-00 . These appear to be common to all CP3 engines.

FWIW, I always order an extra nut and extra gasket. If I screw up, I'm covered, if not, I've got a spare for later. YMMV. They're cheap, and I've found a little paranoia really saves the day sometimes.

So, I took mine all apart. A fairly simple operation as I do have an impact. I can’t tell though, if the clutch basket rubbers are worn though, at least not by hand. I shall try putting it in a vice and gently applying force to see if I have any play there. But, my issue with the bike sounds exactly like what you experienced. So, am pretty sure that an updated basket will solve the issue. I, like yourself, would not trust bolts in that situation, so would rather just replace rather than risk catastrophic failure. It would be nice though, if I could find play in the gear/basket. 

That’s good info. Kinda what I figured. I don’t have access to a clutch holder tool. I may try to fabricate something. I do have my old impact, but no compressor big enough to handle it. 
also, I noticed that the oil pump drive chain is quite loose. Is that normal?

Has anyone seen a video on removing and installing the clutch basket?  I am doing this job in the near future, it’s nice to have a video to review beforehand. Especially about removing and replacing the nut. 

I owned a 2007 R1200RT for 11 years before I sold it and got my 2019 Tracer. I like the Yamaha a lot, but that Beemer was an amazing bike. Surprisingly agile for a big bike, even loaded and 2-up. Amazing weather protection and the best stock seat and windscreen I’ve ever had. The only mod I ever did on it was a GPS mount. Never had any mechanical issues with it. My wife and I travelled far and wide for many years on that fantastic bike. Life changed tho, and it was time for a bike change too. Will always miss that Beemer tho. Good purchase, I’d say!  Enjoy. 

11 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

 

Mine does that too, the wierd kind of low frequency vibration around 3500rpm under very minimal throttle.  It's been bothering me more lately, and I've been contemplating taking it into a shop to have them diagnose it - though I fear they'll just do the "I don't see what the problem is" thing.  It's always been there, but gotten very gradually worse over the miles.

I've heard about the clutch rubber dampers, and am sure mine are shot, so if that's related it'd make sense. You can feel it in my Tracer, particularly when cold, when you move from engine braking to throttle there's a noticable clunk unless you're really gentle.  And no, not chain slack.  It seems it just clunks slower when the bike is cold making it more noticable and things move slicker once it's warmed up so it gets mixed in with normal driveline slack.

 

Edit: I should note, mine is a 2019 Tracer GT, so it has a slipper clutch stock but still does this.

I have exactly the same thing happening with my 2019 Tracer GT. I intend to dive in to the clutch once winter arrives. 

On 9/2/2021 at 4:56 PM, Basket said:

I have a Canadian market 2020 gt and I clean with kerosene and then lube liberally with an o ring safe chain lube. I have had many bikes over 30 plus years and have often got over 30,000 plus kms from chains and sprockets. My 2020 has 14000 kms on it and I have a few o rings that are damaged and coming out of their seats.  I find this both surprising and very disappointing.  

I think that what happens to my bike is a foreshadowing of what’s likely to happen to yours 😀

I had the same issue at 12,000km. Replaced chain and sprockets, although the sprockets weren’t all that bad. 

I’ve run the Pilot Roads on my BMW R1200RT for 12 years. Great mileage running mostly 2 up with luggage. Great feel on all road surfaces, wet and dry. I will stick with those.  

On 3/10/2017 at 12:17 AM, brizat said:

New member. Live in Cross Plains. West of Middleton just outside of Madison. Peace.

Love that area. If the damn borders would open, I’d be there in a shot. Hopefully for Slimey Crud!!

I did the same for my Ontario plate, but I didn’t bother putting the reflectors back on. 

I just bought a 2019 Tracer 900GT with 12,000 km (7500 miles). The bike is in great shape and was well cared for. But, I am noticing a ‘roughness’ to it. Not a noise, or necessarily a vibration, although I can feel it in the bars and pegs. It’s most noticeable when cruising along at about 3500 rpm in 6th, but is present throughout most of the range. If I pull in the clutch, the feeling instantly goes away. I have a friend with a 2020 Tracer and there is a noticeable difference in feel between the 2 bikes. He has ridden mine and doesn’t feel that it pulls as hard. I’ve ruled out chain, wheel bearings, brakes. Wondering if a re-synch of the throttle bodies would help. Anyone else notice this?