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Where you at? I'd gladly swap my stock exhaust for your SC exhaust.

Update, had the local dealer do a "by the book" ABS pump air purge. It made zero change to the lever feel but did purge $150 from my wallet. I was able to get my hands on an official Yamaha branded rebuilt kit for the regular Tracer 900 (non GT) and popped that into my GT master cylinder. If I was at 80% brake feel/confidence before, it went to maybe 84%. Not much improvement. Talking with some old time wrench benders, they suggest eliminating braking components and checking feel as I work my way. Either starting at the master and working to calipers or calipers to master. Example; remove the master cylinder bajo bolt and replace it with a regular M10x125 bolt and and check lever feel to see if it's the master? If not the master, then remove the first section of line at the ABS pump and plug it, check lever feel, and see if it's that section of line causing the issue, etc. continuing down the line. Seems like that's my only option at this point. FYI, I'm still riding the bike, and often at a spirited pace. Most times I work enough distance into my stops to figure out how the brakes are going to react in that instance to not be a problem. Just waiting for that true emergency braking scenario where you'll end up reading about me in the papers.

Yup, already talking with a local dealer to have them extract some money from my wallet along with the some air likely stuck in the ABS pump. Stay tuned.

Thanks Tom. I have also tried this trick multiple times without any improvement. To clarify, I pulled fluid from the right hand caliper first and then from the left hand caliper. Per the service manual, they say to start at the caliper furthest from the mast cylinder at the end of the brake line(s). Since the brake line hits the left caliper first then over to the right, I started my bleed with the right caliper. This looks very interesting. Any idea what size the master banjo bolt is? Thanks for sharing.

Problem: Spongy and unpredictable front brake lever. Can pull the lever quickly (emergency braking) and get almost instant pressure (feel) without much lever movement. Pull lightly (trail braking or slow-stop braking) and lever can almost touch the handgrip before gaining enough pressure. Background: I installed the Siegler braided brake line kit on my 2019 900 GT along with EBC-HH pads. I did the initial flush using Brembo DOT 4 fluid (ordered from Amazon). I connected a vacuum pump to the furthest caliper from the master and pulled a ton of fluid until I had built enough feel in the lever to take a ride. Found a gravel parking lot and did several runs to activate the ABS pump. Came home and pulled more fluid through the system. Still not happy with the lever feel. I disconnected the calipers, pushed the pistons back and elevated them above the master cylinder overnight hoping to get any last air from the system. This made no improvement. Thought it was possibly bad brake fluid, so I pulled almost a whole quart of fresh Valvoline fluid through the system. Still have the same issue. Ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit from the local Yamaha dealer, they ordered me an All Balls Racing rebuild kit. Turned out they ordered a kit for the regular Tracer 900, not the GT. Didn’t know there was a difference. Called the dealer and the 900 GT kit is unobtanium. I was able to use a few pieces from the 900 kit (one seal, spring, retaining clips) but it did not have the piston with new seal installed. I guess they press fit the piston together with that seal in place? I’m in a real pickle here and don’t know if a dealer will help other than to activate the ABS using their computer and do yet another flush. At this point I’ve pulled almost two full quarts of fluid through this bike. Do you think there is still air in the ABS pump?

Thanks all for the great feedback. Consensus seems to be; change them at valve adjustment.

Apologies if this has already been discussed, feel free to direct me to the threads. I have around 10k miles on my 2019 900 GT and was thinking about replacing the spark plugs ahead of my upcoming 1,000 mile trip. The owners manual states to replace the spark plugs every 8k miles. Looking at the specs for the recommended NGK 2308 CPR9EA-9 Nickel Spark Plug directly on the NGK website (link below), it states the "longevity" on this particular plug is 30k miles. My two questions are 1) why only 8k miles recommended by Yamaha? 2) what are folks seeing for real-life longevity out of these plugs and is there even any noticeable difference with a new set of sparkys? https://www.ngk.com/ngk-2308-cpr9ea-9-nickel-spark-plug

Hey there, just a guess, but they probably just want you to knock the torque off the axle nut while both wheels are on the ground. Once you raise the bike onto the center stand it raises the rear wheel off the ground and wrenching on the axle nut could destabilize the bike making it go boom.