KrustyKush

Curious, are you still riding the Corbin?  Or, have you gotten another saddle already, and if so, what did you get?  How do you like it?

FWIW I've got the identical Corbin on my 21 Tracer GT.  I'm a Corbin lover from way back.  I also put on a bar riser and kept the controls where they are pegged.  I like the way I can so easily slide back against the seat's "wall" during acceleration, and then slide forward while slowing and in stop and go.  The leather lets the sliding happen so easily, and I often wonder why the oem saddles grip with such painful friction.  I believe a lot of the pain from stock saddles is the high friction fabric gripping the jeans which in turn grabs and pulls on the butt hairs.  

Wow, after all these years.  Until this thread, I never thought about those "bobbins" on the rotors.  Learn something new almost every day.  Thanks.

I’ve got a Corbin on my 21GT. It moves back and down, about an inch. I needed a handlebar riser to accommodate my preferred slightly-forward-lean ride position. I am very happy with the Corbin. 

I read over on a Goldwing forum, someone had their rear tire go flat overnight whilst on side stand. Wing fell over to the right side. Bummer. 

I’ve never ridden one of those or seen one up close for that matter. 200 miles. You ride on roads, or off road?

How’s the weather there?

On my 21 T9GT I’m past 15k miles on the original chain. It still is in great shape. I don’t fuss over the chain much. It has needed a bit of tightening maybe 3 times since I bought the bike new. I set tension as the book sez, 40-45mm slack at midpoint between sprockets, a point specified in the book as a certain distance from the end of the guide on the swingarm. Once the chain is broken in it should hardly ever need any further adjustment before it dies. I check tension once in awhile during chain lube sessions. I push on the chain at the midpoint, bike on center stand, and if it just touches the rubber guide, it is good to go. The fact that I am now closing in on 20k with this chain proves to me that this method is good. 

My 21 T9GT is so tall, I’m happy for it to lean a little harder to let me on. However I don’t feel like mine leans too far at all. It sits at a very “normal” lean angle. Has OP bike been in a crash of any kind?

Riding a bike is hard. Riding requires a toughness in the rider unheard of in the cage-driving majority.

it gets worse as the years pile up. 

It does on mine.  Clutch out, rattle.  Pull clutch in, rattle dies in about a second of two.

As mentioned, there is also a sort of vibration felt when going slow in first or second gear on neutral throttle.  Mine is felt only when the motor is cold.  My hot motor is pretty silky at going on 16k miles. 

Also, no two bikes are the same.  Some make noises that others don't. Just a reminder, in case yours is noisier than another you've heard. Doesn't mean anything is wrong with yours, but just the variance of individual and wear levels.

They do hop around a bit on my 21 9GT, but not enough to fret over.  Other bikes do the same.  Nothing was worse than my 92 Concours.  Make sure your lower mounts are tight, and that the bag is properly engaged there.

Mine at 15k miles is much louder at cold startup than it is once the motor is good and hot.  When cold, it really grinds.  Hot, I don't notice it at all.  Even without earplugs, it isn't annoying on the hot motor.  It appeared over time, so I expect it to get worse as it gets older.  

I love this thread

5mm to 15mm sounds way tight. My 2021 T9GT book says 40-45mm. Bike on center stand, in neutral. Different bike, longer swingarm probably explains the diff.

As to the “lurch” during decel.

My 2021 T9GT same same. First bike I’ve ever had that does this. Apparently it is a “thing” because it is now universal, but it’s purpose remains a mystery to me.

Last August, 2022, I bought a new 22 Goldwing. It acts exactly like my Tracer in that manner of “lurch.”  This trait of engine management must be a requirement of emissions, sure can’t be safety. It doesn’t help a bit with riding the bike, and is actually irritating to me. I wish the new bikes weren’t like this. But they are. 

Are you in dirty air when wobbles happen?  Like, are you running in heavy traffic?

my Tracer is rock solid at high speeds but in dirty trafficky air it will wiggle a little. Normal. 

Lately my left hand is working at only maybe 20% capability due to flaring rheumatoid arthritis. It is really nice to be able to take some of that repetitive work away from the hand.

Otherwise, I mainly QS when pulling hard onto the highway. Clutch shifting at 9krpm for me is awkward. The QS makes it easy and groovy. 

Same Same here.  21 T9GT.  14,700 miles.  Original DID chain and sprockets still in terrific shape.  I just put new tires on it and got up close to the chain, measured the 15 link stretch, and it is still good.  Runs quiet.  I have a new DID chain and oem sprockets sitting on the shelf, and I really expected to need to install them at the same time I did the tires.  But I see no reason.  Started out new using gear oil, and switched over to DuPont Chain Saver at 8k miles.  Wonder if I can make 20k?

I do the same with my 2021 Tracer... pull directly into the garage, and typically spend a little while disrobing from the ride, and then fiddling with this or that before going into the house.  I have never smelled strong odors from this bike after a run.  But I have smelled it on other bikes I've owned.  As I recall, these were carbureted motors that had been "re-jetted" to richen the mixture away from the factory lean setting.  Mainly because of word-of-mouth theories about how the manufacturers set the carbs way lean to meet emissions standards, which caused various operational problems, such as hot engine temps, etc.  

BTW my shop manual says torque spec on the two  fasteners that hold the larger bracket onto the subframe tube is 28 N-m

Same both sides.

One Yamaha I had, an 07 Venture, was a not-CA bike and had no canister. A vent hose dumped right out onto the ground under the bike.  On a warm day after the bike sat for a couple of hours in sunshine on a full tank, fuel would drip out onto the pavement, make a good sized puddle that looked for all the world like a major leak.  Stink, too.  Once the tank burned off a gallon or two, the drainage would go away.  

I understand way overfilling the fuel tank, followed perhaps by the bike sitting in sunshine and heating up the fuel which may expand and leach thru the vent tube into the charcoal canister.  That's what I've heard.  Never seen it.  I've got a CA Tracer, with the canister, not a trace of fumes, but I don't really force the fuel to the top of the tank.

The left side bracket is 4mm thick.  The right side bracket, the one that holds the rear brake master cylinder, is 2mm thick.

I suppose you could find a couple of 4mm thick metal, suggest aluminum, washers to use on the left side in place of the missing shock adjuster bracket.

Your English is nearly perfect.  I'm not a mechanic, either.  I just putter in the garage.  Mostly I make a lot of mistakes that need to be fixed.  Yesterday while changing my rear tire, I dropped my wheel onto the top plate of the tire changer and put some nasty scratches into it.  I'm over it.

So, a "bracket" is a general term.  On a motorcycle, it is anything that has as its main purpose to hold something else.  Look at the right side, see the 2mm thick "bracket" that is sandwiched between the subframe tube, and the larger pax footpeg "bracket".  That is my crude understanding of the word "bracket"

Hold on, let me measure the thickness of the bracket...

Ok I might have it at least partially figured out.  The bike in the video is "missing" a bracket on the left side, upon which is mounted the rear shock adjuster.  Apparently the bike in the video does not have the KYB suspension.  The bracket that mounts this suspension adjuster also apparently serves as "washer" for the larger pannier/pax footrest bracket.  Since there is no such bracket on the left side, for this particular bike, I'm guessing there is a need for a couple of washers to take its place.  One of the washers in the video appears to be a plastic, and the smaller one appears to be metal.  

In fact, in the video, the guy points to the right side bracket and wags his finger, apparently saying (I can't hear his voice, only the music) since the right side has the bracket holding the rear brake master cylinder, no washers are needed there.  

If the video bike had a support bracket for the rear suspension adjuster, on the left side, then no washers would be needed there, either.

I also looked into the shop manual for this bike.  No washers are indicated on either left or right side.  I suppose this is because of the small thin sandwiched brackets that hold the aforementioned devices: rear brake master cylinder on right side, and rear shock adjuster device on the left side.  Again, the bike in the video has no rear shock adjuster on the left side.  Hence the need for washers there to take up the space left by there being no sandwiched bracket in there.