pattonme

A bit harsher ride is the only drawback. but I may be able to adjust it out. I have not played with any setting yet.

You know where to find me.

the ones I have bought the 'nut' is pressed into the metal as a shape, not riveted on after the fact. but I come back to my earlier point. If you can't get it off with a solid grip with one hand or two it's on TOO TIGHT. Period. Never use mechanical advantage during install.

I had a sudden and very brief surge then flame out while doing close-quarters battle during rush-hour at 70mph. Nothing seemingly wrong after the fact. But it might have been due to a loose ground wire. Revisit the major junctions and remove and inspect the battery connections and as a test, disconnect and manually short the side-stand switch and ride the bike that way for several days/weeks.
 
It appears that with recent bikes, if the bike is in gear and you put the side stand down the ECU has been programmed to kill the engine. My older bikes did no such thing. It might be a Euro regulation that mandates this.

if it's so tight you need to use the nut, it's on too tight.

ride it cross-country? (kidding)
https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2015-Yamaha-FJ-09-5003810192
 

So i deside to byu and use a 10 or 7 grade not 15 i all ready have. 

DO NOT USE that oil!!! 
Indicated CST is at 100C, not 40c. see chart.
https://sites.google.com/site/forksbymatt/resources/oil-list
 
You generally want a high HVI oil in the 11-13cSt@40 for rear shocks use.

One other note regarding Metzler and ‎Pirelli tires: These are the only makes that I have wore the rubber off to the cords (5X)

What pressures are you running? I think you need some Shinkos. You should be able to hot-glue a 3" wide piece of car tire onto the middle and get a couple more miles.
/JK

At the end of the day, $25 for a set of levers, ya get what ya pay for.

Simple, put them in your vise and run a reamer into the hole. Or go oversize, press in an oil-lite and then ream to size.
 
What, you guys don't all have a machine shop in your garden shed?
 

I've got a set of 0-mile Dunlop GPR-300 if interested. I put Q3+ on the Z900RS not realizing it didn't come with the crappy D214 the sister Z900 comes with.
https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/tire-line/sportmax-gpr-300/

Since the plate is on a T-bar and spacers I imagine canting it a little shouldn't be a problem. Sorry I can't answer in the definitive.

So I noticed this puppy sticks out quite a bit and should I go down on the right side, the muffler is going to meet the road. Anybody bother with some sort of guard or protection for the muffler? Is there anything that protects the muffler without looking really odd?

Your leg? 
Some people have rings of Delrin that purport to protect against minor scrapes. Assuming it's not destroyed just ride the bike with it's newfound character. Or resign yourself to having to pony up for a new can (200-300) and put the money in the piggy bank ahead of time.
 
Looking at it again, the end-cone is going to take the brunt of it. Yosh can probably sell you the end cap and you can have someone chisel off the old rivets and install the new.

spray the current studs/nuts with penetrating oil and leave overnight. It's not uncommon for them to corrode and end up coming out of teh engine block instead of the nuts coming off.

Should I use new gaskets?

always. They are crush washers and by definition are single-use only. You don't replace them because of mileage (or lack) but because when you install it indents the mating surface and you're not going to exactly match up the new exhaust to the previous indentations. 
It's a trifling amount ($13?) so having shelled out $6-800 for an exhaust it's just beyond silly not to do the job completely and correctly. If you want to save money, skip the next 3 Starbucks coffees and you're back to break-even.
 

Instead of clamping to the fork tube, it might be easier and simpler to make a thin flat-stock bracket that is secured by one (or both) of the lower triple clamp bolts. Another common tactic is to place them on one of the fender mounting holes so you get a sizable triangle of light instead of all point being centralized. They human eye need distance between light sources to detect distance and thus approach speed. That's the reason behind why locomotives have displaced lights. If you see a single point WATCH OUT! But if it's 3 points, the train is a ways away (1 mile?)
 
BTW you need at least 130mm between the highest point on the fender and the lowest of your light/bracket.
 

red is rebound. there is no adjuster at the clevis end. as to adjustment, maybe it's accessible from above, otherwise long fingers are involved I guess.

i'm waiting for someone to mount the cop-car window light onto their rig... Complete with pistol grip for aiming.

What do you think of this aux light setup? I could bring them in narrower and/or up or down a little.

 
Not planning on hitting any bumps then?
 

I just thought that the lower bolt compression adjuster was the ONLY method available.

It's the only USEFUL and EFFECTIVE method at this time.

So he offers compression adjustment on one of the fork caps now?

I've always "offered" it (nee Advanced) but recommend is a different matter.

I have to do the cartridge/spring swap myself and a few friends... kinda impossible to find an open suspension shop at 10pm( 3rd shift hours)to drop off forks and pickup in a few hours...

f I'm wrong, but Matt's intermediate setup has the compression adjustment on the bottom of the fork. The axle would need to be removed to adjust. Rebound adjustment on top. I believe you can go with his "advanced" setup and get adjustment on top for compression on the left fork. 
Also, Forks by Matt has good prices on "name brand" cartridges too..

My problem right now is crap turn-around on the Intermediate kits. I spent several hours over the weekend making more adjustable bolts since I had run out. Unfortunately I can't outsource the work because the commercial machine shop I've been using can't be relied on not to totally screw it up. They botched another $1000 order recently... 
Yes I have several Ohlins NIX-30 in stock and Andreani too.
 
The comp adjustment is a small needle *inside* the cartridge bolt in the bottom of the fork. You'll need to pull the axle out a couple inches to use a thin (#1?) blade screw driver to turn it.

Finally installed a 08 zx10r rear shock. As far as I can tell its a little better at low speeds and is way more confident at high way speeds. I have done at least half of my riding 2 up, so Im really interested to see how it is riding with a passenger on this new shock

 
you'll want to dial-in preload to "negate" your passenger. The '08 spring is only a 90N/mm so it's too light for single-up unless you're <150lbs geared up. The ZX shocks use a standard size spring so go to Summit-Racing (or you favorite EIBACH) supplier and for $70 get the right spring. Depending on how high you go the rebound circuit may be hard-pressed to keep up though... If you want a different color spring (not dark red) you can get suitable items from Ohlins and Hyperpro and Penske.

The cross-hatch goes UP. Yes it's opposite what you'd intuitively assume when looking at the part. It's a universal adapter - goes "upside down" on FZ/FJ and right side up on SV650/FZ07 etc.
 

June 1-3 then @Trambo?

What make/model damper is this? Easy to install?

Looks like a chinese knockoff of the GPR.

replaced the shock aswel , with all black wilbers unit

 
As you can see no ability to change spring preload at the rear end of the shock so you'll definitely want the RPA (remote preload adjuster) which adds a chunk of change to the price. That second picture sure looks like a YSS to me and not a Wilbers. Clarify?