pattonme
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Posts posted by pattonme
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> QS and auto-blipper
well sheet, that's cheating! The FZ07 shifts great, once you change it over to GP.
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Try ~450ml. In-place is only doable for partial fluid exchange. To fully replace (flush and/or clean) and then be able to properly bleed the cartridge, off-bike is a must. And you'll need to compress the spring to get the cap off and then back on again.I assume 220 -250 cc's is all the oil.
You will need something like this: http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Spring-Compressor-Kit-4017/
Or if you really want to get fancy: http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Service-Tool-Kit/
Otherwise you need to come up with a similar solution.
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Get a MightyVac, some 1/4 or 3/8" hose (whatever fits the vac), 24mm socket or flat wrench, and appropriate fluids. A front pin stand and a ratchet cinch strap is handy here but an alternate is to use (optional a traditional fork stand - under leg) and an automotive jack to reduce the weight on the front. Or you can accomplish the same thing with an engine hoist and suitable straps tied to the frame or in a pinch handlebars.
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Heavy update to top post. Added StoltecMoto's coverage of Penske, and newcomer Cogent Dynamics.
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Your kidding right?!?! Come on... I'd love to find any tire manufacturer that recommends this! Now admittedly I've only been riding for 50 years but this sound like bs to me.
Help me understand what you're objecting to. 30/30 pressures for street use? On a 450lb bike? In 20F to 40F temperatures?
I think I know a little about tires - 250K miles on 7 different bikes, and upteen tires...
the pat answer of 36F/42R are max pressures at >70F at STP. During temperate weather I run 33F/34-36R on this class of bike depending on load-out and mood of the day.
Ok, so maybe 30/33 is more to your liking? I'm not aware that any of the tire companies have published, official recommendations on PSI for all temperature ranges.
If you want to feel out what works for you, do a steady 30 minute ride loaded however you normally run and see what the pressure difference is between "hot" and "cold". If it's more than 10% add a psi or two and retest.
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Take 3 PSI out of the tires and you'll be fine. I run 30F/30R during the winter. Admittedly all sport-touring rubber from Bridgestone, Michelin, Pirelli and so forth. The Shinko 003 which is nominally a 'sport' tire does just fine below freezing. Shinko 008 which are "track slicks" are death however at 50F let alone lower.
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> between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil ... Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil.
Here's a handy chart of oil viscosity options. I would pick from the 8-11cSt@40 range. Yes the 3W shock oil works fine.
Playing with oil is only a band-aid though so don't expect miracles. But if it's good enough for your needs...
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/180639/Forks-by-Matt/Fork%20oil%20weights.html
The left leg does absolutely nothing so unless you're changing out the spring I'd leave it alone and not worry about adding more fluid either. And yes you can fish a hose down the fork and use something like a MightyVac brake bleeder to suck fluid out of the fork and then pour the balance back in.
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The 'clunk' is an artifact of motorcycle transmissions in general. I doubt the revised clutch will make any difference.
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I wouldn't go any higher than 0.95kg/mm == 9.3N/mm and think it would be better to go .925kg/mm = 9.0N/mm which is achieved by using one each of the 8.8 and 9.3s. So their recommendation is pretty much spot on.
If you are in USA, please consider buying from the official source (FastBike Industries) or if you want a nice discount, yours truly.
I don't know what happened to your PM @smifff, but it's not in my mailbox.
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Subject to Ohlins and spring availability, mind you. And paying UPS for overnight delivery.he seems to be able to get rear shocks in 24 hours.
That said, I can get them faster if I keep stock on hand which I might do to a limited degree - a couple of Ohlins 335 and 535s for instance and a handful of springs.
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on that 'other' site there is a link to download the XSR manual.
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since one can't post URLs to that "other fz09" site, go look over there for the parts breakdown.
Damn, Google Translate did an impressive job with that!
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same outfit has flanged bolts but not sure if the flange will fit. It'll be close I reckon.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless/stainless-steel-bolts-flanged-hex/stainless-steel-flanged-hex-m10-x-1-25mm-x-80mm-pack-x-5.html
Should get you 8 turns which is about the minimum.
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so, these bolts then?
http://www.amazon.com/1-25-Socket-Screw-Grade-Plated/dp/B00SQFTV2Y
these are a bit spendy but long enough? How many turns of engagement did you get with the 88mm long variety?
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Socket-1-25mm-85mm/dp/B00AQMFOSU
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Mirrors? Surely you jest. "The first rule of Italian (Yamaha) driving, whatsa behind me is not important."
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I don't believe there is that much difference dimension-wise between the two. But if you do this at least get it serviced and sprung/modded for the correct rate.
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oh and Hyperpro and Wilbers are in EU and you might get decent pricing from them. Go for the 641-series. But seeing as how Nitron is UK-based it should be price competitive for lack of import duties and what not.
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Are you referring to the Ohlins NIX-30, @johan? From a superficial stance they are the 'same' in that they are both 2-piston designs. I haven't yet held the Ohlins in my hands but I would expect the quality of the components and the end results are noticeably better than the Andreani. They better be or Ohlins has really lost the plot.
Ohlins USED TO BE a quality product. It's gone down hill and especially so on their not top-line stuff.
I don't know what the pricing looks like over there but I would give a hard look at the Matris F12Y124S. It's priced here between the Andreani and Ohlins and I've dealt with their FZ07 product which aside from a silly mistake was very well done and a clear step above Andreani in materials and craftsmanship.
I have 2 sets of forks for my use so I plan on doing some back to back comparo. Question is do I want to shell out the grand to do my own evaluation. (OT: anyone have a media contact just itching for a suspension comparo for the FZ/FJ09 and would bank roll the effort?)
The Ohlins YA335 isn't worth bothering with, IMO. Get the Nitron or Matris MY117.1KF. Once/when Ohlins releases their remote-reservoir shock with all the farkles then sure give it a look but I expect it'll be a lot more money. I thought Penske was available over there. I don't think JRi has a presence and it might make sense to have one shipped from US to a channel island?
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> Pulling hard through the gears, by the time you hit 5th, your moving at a good clip..
Indeed. Any chance you could find 15 min and measure sag?
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i'm curious what your pre/post sag numbers are.I adjusted the spring compression on my fork tubes, no more front end wobble.. Quick and easy fix.. -
> less harsh/crash through bumps and potholes
If your reworked suspension didn't result in a noticeable (dramatic?) improvement, demand your money back.
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the "sweet" solution is the 16mm piston (not the 19) from like the R6. I personally went for the Brembo RCS17.
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suspension damping frequency and loading bias is more likely to be a contributing factor than tires. Not to say that cupping doesn't also contribute to the front's wandering. I've had some BT and Avons do some very odd things...
Any proper tourer has by definition a relaxed rake and longish trail. Yamaha is WAY off the reservation with the FJ09. I don't know why they thought it was a good idea.
Front End Choices ?
in FJ-09 Suspension
Posted
re-read http://fj-09.org/post/50831
Frankly you should, but it's impossible to do that and keep things on the bike. IMO just buy the proper stand and the hand tools and take the frontend apart. It's not hard.
Oil volume is not an accurate way to set oil height. The most correct way is to add oil, bleed the cartridge, and then measure height with a ruler or graduated stick. add/subtract till you get to the number you want. I recommend starting with 160-165mm (stock is ~175) and going as low as 150 (track) but 130 works for more resist to bottoming.
If you're not sprung right (check rider and static sag), changing oil height to keep from crashing into the bottom is just a crutch. Do your best stop from ~30mph with a zip tie on the leg. If you can get close to 10mm from the bottom you're ok, maybe add 5ml the next time. If you're much under 10mm I would add 10cc.
Fluid level is not critical for normal street riding as long as you're in the ball-park. A *rough* rule of thumb for a starting point is 25mm+max travel. On sportier bikes somewhere around 18+max.