miweber929

Welcome!!! The Tracer is a great choice 

10 hours ago, betoney said:

You could always resize your photos.

Very true. However in something like 20 years of various forums usage I haven’t seen one that didn’t have a way to resize pics through the forum itself in like 15 of them. 
 

Not a huge thing, but a thing to know and get used to. 

On 8/14/2023 at 7:31 PM, DT675 said:

I was going to post a pic of that but this furum limits me to 1000kb??  I don't think I can get any pics to that... 

I get the why they do it but I’m bummed about that as well. I have plenty of good pics but no place hosting them to link. Oh well!!!

Welcome!!! 
 

There’s a couple of us from MN on here.

Welcome!!!

FINALLY got around to installing the Y series Yoshimura pipe I bought back in November yesterday afternoon. Not an awful install, I’ve had worse on much smaller items, but I’ll add a couple notes that may have been covered already:

- It’s a big, one piece stock pipe so getting it off is a tick tricky. I tried it on the centerstand, then off, then back on and successfully got it off with it off the centerstand. It would be easiest to remove the pipe with it completely off, but it will come out with it still on. 
- The hardest thing was getting the muffler clamp attached to the bracket with the pipe on the bike like the directions stated. I did it by removing one of the mounting bolts on the black bracket and leaving it very loose, then putting it all together, also loosely and tightening everything back up. Fiddly, but now that I’ve done it would be easier. 
- I normally replace the exhaust gaskets on a new pipe but the directions said to reuse the old ones and they were not the typical crushed and deformed shape I see on bikes so I didn’t swap. If I need to, I have 3 in the toolbox but so far so good. 
- Fit was great, sounds good and looks to have a removable baffle but it sounds good as is.
 

I highly recommend the Y series pipe if you can find one. 

Welcome!!!!
 

So you bought a Tracer, then? Good choice (I have the same username on the Supersport forum  )!!! I just spent a couple hours yesterday installing the Yamaha accessory Yoshimura exhaust I bought over the winter; a pipe is a nice upgrade to give this bike some edge!!!!

Welcome!!!

Impact driver, not powered impact wrench:

https://www.northerntool.com/products/performance-tool-3-8in-impact-driver-with-4-bits-model-w2500p-9094203?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Screwdrivers&utm_campaign=Performance Tool&utm_content=9094203&ogmap=SHP|LIA|GOOG|STND|c|SITEWIDE|||||857741010|42214670543&gclid=Cj0KCQjw756lBhDMARIsAEI0AgmdAYZ7g78oJrpIeIra56I_GSqRLGjTk5gqL4MuyEYLsBhQV5sb03IaAsWjEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Best $20 tool you’ll ever have. 

Very glad to be part of a forum that tells it like it is, even if the truth is a “harsh” one. So many I’ve been a part of tell takes of 10% plus power increases, the bike cured their infertility, never had to ride in the rain again and the sun shines just a little brighter after a pipe change, lol!!! 
 

OP, you’ll see pretty much no power increases from the pipe alone, as stated the weight loss will be your change. And even that is minor. 

Welcome!!!

4 hours ago, robzilla said:

Right, not available in '23 for US but supposedly coming in '24 from other thread & link

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/yamaha-tracer-9-gt-finally-coming-to-us-for-2024/ar-AA19zd6h?ocid=msedgdhp&pc=U531&cvid=6350dc5ca0e34d12c6a7fbf332d547dc&ei=84

I’m hoping it’s in that black and grey with the gold stripe I’ve been seeing in the press. I’m thinking about one……

7 hours ago, betoney said:

 

I'm curious, to those that ride with a GPS and cell phone, what do you use a paper map for?  I have traveled with both paper maps and a GPS and have never used the paper map, not even once, so I stopped carrying them years ago.

A smart phone navigation app or GPS is infinitely easier, more accurate, always up to date, can create a route in an instant, immediately tell you the distance and ETA down to the minute, show you gas stops along your route with real time prices all without touching the device, you just use your voice. 

I have ridden in deep, dense forests and at high elevations in the Rocky Mountains and have never lost satellite connection on my GPS. 

It depends on what you want to see and the route you want to take as well as the paper maps you have:
 

If I’m planning a trip from point A to point B and want to take the time to plan waypoints and program my route into the GPS or phone, they can work great. If I’m trying to get there the fastest way, they are also great. 

But if I’m doing what I do when I take my trips down south, and have no idea how long I want to wander, or where I may want to go that day and want to know the fun routes around there, and maybe make mid ride changes based on weather, how I’m feeling, whatever, nothing beats a high resolution paper map. A typical GPS/phone screen is what 3”x5”, 4”x6” something like that? The map on top of my tank bag is 7x10, shows where I was, where I want to go and cool shit around the area I may not have seen. I’ve yet to get to a point using a (relatively) recent map where it’s steered me way off at least to a point the GPS was the only way out. 
 

I’ve tried several times to use a GPS for meandering routes and all I see and hear is re-routing, or recalculating on the screen and in my headset. Or I try to see with a resolution so bad I can’t tell where I need to turn next, or I see the route for the next half mile, not the road ahead and that’s not helpful. 
 

GPS has its place, but so does a paper map. 

12 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

Way oversimplification and doesn't consider other safety factors.  The new helmet is ECE22.05 compliant which is the same standard that my main 4 year old Klim TK1200 helmet meets.  And any helmet that doesn't have a peak creates a safety issue commuting east every morning and west every afternoon.

This 100%. It drives me crazy when people say the dangerous crap as below:

On 4/28/2023 at 11:19 PM, OZVFR said:

You know the old saying, if you’ve got a $150 head, but a $150 helmet. 

By that logic if I give the shop a couple hundred bucks additional than they were asking I am better protected? Or if I buy the Rossi Winter test AGV over the plain black or white because it's 2x the cost I am better off in a crash? How about if I buy a last years graphic on closeout I am somehow less protected than those who didn't get it on sale?

Two like rated helmets will protect the same in the same wrecks, be it one at $150, $450 or $950. One will last longer, probably be more comfortable, vent better, have more accessories and comfort parts to make it fit your head better but it won't protect any more than the cheaper one.

This has been proved MULTIPLE times over the years

I normally recommend to people to spend in the $250-$450 range because they will still get great comfort, lots of adaptability, usually good vents, good optics, but it's cheap enough if it's dropped or crashed in you'll replace it and not try to use it again because of how much it cost. I have worn $100 helmets and $1,000 helmets; price is only one factor that should be considered when buying and you shouldn't skimp on other protective gear because someone stupidly told you to buy a ridiculously expensive helmet. 

Also very sorry for the loss but definitely a great way to celebrate the memories. 

Welcome!!!!

5 hours ago, Rick123 said:

Maybe if you put 5000km a year it makes not much difference but if you ride 50 000 it counts.

If you're putting on 50,000km (so like 31,000 miles) a year on a bike you are most likely also either not driving a car or have other means with which to travel a lot more than the average person so probably don't have a huge money issue. 

Rough math on your 50,000km/yr: Averaging 45 mpg means $3,450 in fuel at $5 a gallon, $2,760 in fuel at $4/gal, $690 different. If you get only 2 miles more per gallon on premium, subtract $200 off that, if it's only $.50 difference between regular and premium subtract another $345 off. Reduce your speed by 4 mph and you can get better mpg, makes it even less. And yet some of those same people bitching about the fuel costs have no issue spending $1,000 on an exhaust, $400 on an ECU flash all in the name of performance but think that higher octane fuel isn't worth it.

My point is the amount of work people do to save $200 a year, $5 on a fill up or even under $20 on an oil change by going aftermarket and cheap oil vs. OEM stuff is crazy to me. To sit for a half hour or more at Costco or Sam's Club to get a bit of savings on fuel means my free time isn't worth anything. Mine is. 

Welcome!!!

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Here premium is a buck more!

So less than $5 more per fill up, it’s like $.75 here so $3. 
 

I’ve never understood the penny pinching that happens with things like oil and fuel, and especially with fuel the lengths people will go to save $2 or $3 on a fill up, but that’s me……..

18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

That's why I went with adjustable pilot footpegs and lowered them. About 3/4 of an inch and moved them forward about half an inch or more.

For me at least I’m already dragging pegs and the center stand on this bike as it sits, I can’t imagine dropping the pegs even lower and farther forward.
 

Reminds me of when I did my first track day at Road America on my old CBR929RR in like ‘03 or ‘04 and kept dragging my footpeg around the Carousel because I didn’t know proper body positioning yet. By the 4th session I literally had just over a half a peg left……..

18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Would the road 5GT Not necessarily triangulate versus the standard five even though it's just a 2CT?

 

I have no experience with the GT on the Tracer, however I ran the 4GT and 5GT on my Triumph Sprint GT and my dad ran the non-GT on his old ‘14 FZ1 and both triangulated the same. The GT took a bit longer, but both wore the same. 
 

FWIW, last year I bought the non GT Road 6 for the Tracer and the GT for the Sprint. Both are wearing the same and both feel the same on the road, with the GT maybe being a tick harsher on bumps. 

8 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

The rear is about the same (6 vs 5) imho, but the front is substantially improved vs the 5.  I find you get much better feedback thanks to the much stiffer sidewalls, particularly on the side of the tire. Also, better wear characteristics.  The 4 and 5 fronts tended to wear in a /-\ sort of pattern(think the top of an octagon); flat angled sides, flat top, with a weird pointy transition where the harder center compound meets the softer sides, resulting in fronts that you'd swap out with rears where normally you'd run 2 rears to a front.  Of course, it wasn't that bad, because you'd get around 10k out of a set, but still.

The Road 6 front is dramatically better.  It's a very different tire, and solves what was IMHO the biggest weakness of the Road tire line, at least over the last decade or so - as far as my experience goes. 

I gave the T32's a run between my Road 5's and 6's, and while I felt the T32 was a good value tire, it wore down WAY faster, and was nowhere near as good in the wet and cold as the 5's, let alone the 6's which get purportedly 10% more wet/cold grip than the 5's.  I took mine for a ride in -15C a couple weeks ago, and was genuinely impressed at how much I had to work on it to trigger traction control. 

And that's my Road 6 fanboying for the day. 

Had the same experience with the Road 4s and 5s and am also finding the Road 6s to be the best yet of the bunch. Hard to fault this tire except for the price. 

14 hours ago, ItsTracerTime said:

I ride in full race boots (SMX Plus V2 Vented, it's a mouthful) and plan on getting a new set for colder months or rain, probably the SMX 6 Goretex or Toucans.

With the stock passenger pegs on the 2019 Tracer, my heels touch them when I have the ball of my foot on MY peg, pushing my toes forward and into a less than ideal spot. Could I buy a set from an FJ/MT/XSR to swap over? The only passenger I anticipate on having is under 5'6", so even pegs that are an inch higher or farther back would suffice. I could also fabricate some out of steel round stock or tubing if needed - I do know how to weld.

Please keep us updated and what you do and what you find. I’ve been kicking around this very thing, my passenger is 5’5” and struggles to get onto the bike with the top box on it because the pegs are so low and far forward she can’t kick her leg over the seat and I thought about an XSR set as a possible solution but haven’t pursued it yet. 
 

I’d be interested in your findings. 

5 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

I have been leaving my batteries on a maintainer all winter long for decades and have never had a single battery related issue on any of my bikes.  Perfectly safe to do this with a quality battery maintainer which uses dedicated software.

There are a lot of people that say this and while a good quality battery tender is fine to leave on all year, my experience has been even though they have software that keeps them from overcharging my batteries have failed closer to every 3 to 4 years rather than 4 to 5 years when I put them on a tender every few weeks then pull it off.

YMMV, just giving my experience over the past 10 years or so since I stopped pulling batteries for storage. 

Welcome!!