miweber929

Trading in my '20 Tracer GT on Friday and have the following parts for sale. All either new or in GREAT Shape, however the passenger comfort seat has a few marks on it from my wife not fully swinging her leg over and scraping the seat with her boot. You can see it, but nothing through the fabric. I will try to get the pictures I have reduced in size enough to post, otherwise PM me and I can send them. Located in Minneapolis, all prices do not include shipping but I get good prices through work.

- Yamaha Comfort Seat set $150 (SOLD)

- National Cycle Mid-Level V-Stream windscreen (shorter than a standard screen, but still provides decent wind protection without buffeting) $SOLD

- Puig sport windscreen (very short, no buffeting) $SOLD

- Black CRG Adjustable levers $80 (SOLD)

- Brand new OEM oil filter, 2 new OEM air filters, brand new OEM clutch cable. $40 for all (SOLD)

All sold, thanks!!!
 

On 12/24/2023 at 4:32 PM, OldBikers said:

I'm in the group that says to let the service pros go over the bike for the first service.  They are experienced to see things the average backyard mechanic misses.  I have worked on bikes for years but today they are so complicated electronically that I feel better to let the professionals do the work and I am still able to afford it.

I agree with this. I can also tell you from experience that as someone who used to always do every service themselves and would in the past never have let a shop touch my bike unless it’s absolutely necessary that having a shop doing the first service, and in the case of Ducati, the annual services, Ducati has “extended” my warranty well past the actual 2 years and worked on a couple things at no cost in year 3 and 4 or I had to pay for the parts only and they covered labor. That was a big plus to me and why I kept going back to them for service. 

2 hours ago, Ride365 said:

What are we looking at?

Looks like a Dymag rear wheel so probably a new set of hoops

5 hours ago, Ride365 said:

I suggest the MT-10.  

I appreciate the thought but not my aesthetic and that much power is kind of a waste on the street in my opinion. My dad had a couple 2nd gen FZ-1’s and I just never gelled with them nor did I find that motor particularly appealing. I know it’s the newer crossplane but it’s the same idea. Way too easy to get into territory with speed where they don’t just ticket you but you end up having it impounded. 
 

Been there, done that, with liter 4cylinder bikes. 
 

To me 100-125hp is the perfect amount: fast enough for fun, enough punch to excite but you have to want to go real fast to go real fast. The Yamaha 900 triple is a perfect fun/controllable/don’t have to think about it ratio. 

I am close to selling my Tracer GT for something different and am thinking an MT-09SP or XSR900 may be the ticket. I have a deposit at my local dealer in hopes the XSR900 GP comes stateside but I fear that is not going to happen so I may just "settle" for the non-faired version.

Thanks for the review!!!

2 hours ago, duckie said:

It disproves the bullshit about a FI needs to come up to operating temp and the ECU dumping extra gas into the engine….

And a battery needs to be fully charged

And that lots of people really dont know what they are talking about.

 

 

As @betoneysaid it only proves it didn't happen to you, doesn't mean it can't happen.

You are jumping to a LOT of conclusions on things that were not said or even implied. Except by you. 

19 minutes ago, duckie said:

So, got a 19 GT…its 46 degrees….been sitting awhile…

I just went out, started it up, let it idle for 20 sec, didnt give any throttle input…..turned it off…

Waited about 10-15 sec…..tried to start it up……guess what…..it started right up….

Did this same routine two more times……started right up….it never got warm.

The only thing happen was the TCS light flicked until I applied rear brake.

Just food for thought……

Great, what does that prove? I completely submerged an XR250R many years back, pulled it out, started it up and ran it another 10 years without doing anything. Doesn't mean that submerging a bike is good for it or that it can't, at times, cause an issue.

My point was/is simply this: fouling plugs, or having your bike be hard to start after running a short time is not uncommon nor is it that unusual. Common thought would be it's a fuel injected modern ECU controlled bike, it should next to impossible to do. It's not. I personally have experienced it on 2 different bikes, one cleared up after using the flooded bike procedure, one needed fresh plugs. And on several forums I visit and some I am a mod, others have had the issue as well; replacing plugs or flooded procedure got the bike to start again. 

Literally the title of the OP's post is "Bike won't start- fouled plugs?" and is arguing it can't possibly happen. So.............

12 hours ago, theog said:

You're free to check the fueling, timing, and enrichment maps for yourself, but can assure you that they there is no "literal dumping of gas".  This is a good bit of urban legend that stems from days of manual chokes and carbs...which still aren't as sensitive as we're discussing here.  Properly fueled with proper heat range plugs (as most bikes are delivered), they don't foul plugs if the bike is turned off within the first 15 seconds.

If you want proof, go to any dealer, moto mechanic, or auto shop...not every bike is fully warmed up when the engine is started.  That's just not feasible for many maintenance operations.

In either case, I agree that it's always preferable to let an engine warm up to temp after starting for a plethora of reasons.  On that we won't disagree.  

I can tell you from personal experience, talking to mechanics at various brand dealerships and repair shops, and being a mod on several forums, that fouling plugs on modern FI bikes after being started and shut off for short durations can, and will, happen on modern bikes. And is easy, and common, to do.
 

I may have oversimplified my explanation by saying “literal dumping of gas” but by that I mean the FI systems will send a larger than “normal” amount fuel for the first cranks and first few seconds of running to aid in the start and initial revolutions of a cold motor. This allows the ECU to read parameters and decide the correct map with the fuel it needs to stay running. This process is used in lieu of a choke of carbureted and “high idle” knob on early FI systems and why it’s not abnormal to foul plugs.
 

If it wasn’t possible, there wouldn’t need to be a procedure in the manual on how to do start a bike with fuel soaked plugs, right?

There’s a strong chance your original battery that was marginally charged and didn’t spin the motor enough to combat the fuel soaked plugs. Once the fresh battery was installed, it did crank fast enough, then it burned off the excess fuel and made it able to start back on the old battery. Or not. But it is easy to still foul plugs whether you choose to believe it or not. 

2 hours ago, theog said:

Although you're correct that the ECU enriches the A/F at start up, stock bikes designed in this century seldom, if ever, run rich enough to foul plugs if the bike isn't fully warmed up.  If these are fouled, they'll be the first on my watch!

Gotta disagree with your statement. It’s VERY common to flood a modern FI bike by only running it 15-30 seconds and shutting it off. Search, you’ll see, as @RaYzerman said they literally dump gas into the motor to get it to fire straight up, unless it’s burnt off it will foul plugs. 
 

I’d be pulling the plugs and drying them off, or simply replacing them, if it were my bike. 

7 minutes ago, RaYzerman said:

Meanwhile over on the FJR forum, a gent with an FJR 2022 with 27k miles.  Just returned from a 7000 mile trip and bike would not start, compression low, dealer removed the cylinder head and said there is carbon  holding the valves open.  They say caused by bad fuel and Yamaha is not covering the repair.  The story is not yet complete, bike is being fixed and owner is protesting with Yamaha.  None of us are buying the bad fuel story......

In your case, I'd like to know what they did to repair your engine.

Interesting......

54 minutes ago, fr8dog said:

Another option is Norwest Suspension in Idaho.  https://www.norwestsuspension.com/

A while back I was going to send my forks up to Terry, but I received an email or text stating he was no longer in the business. Maybe somebody took over the shop.

Website is still up though. He did good work. Sent my Nitron shock up to him for servicing.

Dan

Terry did/does great work but I just messaged the other day to see if he’d want to do my Sprint and got no response. They may be done and over, hope not. 

1 hour ago, johnmark101 said:

Just curious........how many miles on your suspension.  They can usually go a long way before needing a refresh.

Ohlins recommended schedule is pretty tight, 10K between services I believe. 

27 minutes ago, betoney said:

FWIW, the Penske and K-Tech shocks offer ride height adjustment but no remote preload adjuster while the Ohlins and Hyperpro shocks offer remote preload adjustment but no ride height adjustment.  Nitron shocks are available with BOTH.

Interesting because @Ddog gt said his did have the remote preload adjuster. 

6 hours ago, RaYzerman said:

Seems they're all competing by adding features we don't really need and of course, we're paying extra for it.  

That is a slippery slope. Do we really "need" ABS, cruise control, Ohlins, Brembo, water cooling, radial tires.............? I think most people do ask for tech because it's obvious when a bike gets out of date tech wise as it stagnates on the sales floor. Not everyone is asking for everything but most are not buying stripped down new bikes.

Lots of tech in the new version. Looks like they may have a winner on their hands because every forum I follow is talking about it 

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

No CC and amazingly NO IMU, at least from what I could glom from Suzuki's own website.  So no corning ABS, TC and all the other things an IMU can help transform safety features! 

And for the same money as the latest T9+.

Crazy stupid 

I don’t think that’s accurate. Specs show “Smart CC” and also discuss a Suzuki thing called SIRS and TLR control which definitely has to use an IMU to function. Here’s a link to their site, look under features:

https://suzukicycles.com/crossover/2024/gsx-s1000gx-plus

I’d take a Tracer 9 GT+ over this bit it’s full tech spec’ed out. 

8 hours ago, duckie said:

Something to remember is this is a fuel injected engine. And they run pretty lean in stock form.  I just dont think riding style was the main reason for the build up. 
 

 

 

^This.
 

I believe that may be why Yamaha is picking up the tab. 

4 hours ago, alpina said:

😃

It seems that I have found the problem...acting as I said before...I have been touching the switch next to the clutch with my finger several times and the rpm returns to its normal rate...so I will see if Cleaning contacts solves the problem in principle... damn electronics.

Glad you’ve found the source. That’s what I thought it might be if it turned out there was an issue; there is a lot of weird little things riding on a tiny switch that’s easily corroded, bumped or broken. A lot of people damage them when replacing levers, not even realizing it’s there or important. 

20 hours ago, alpina said:

My conclusion is that the start-up assist system is activated prematurely.

Not sure I can be much help then. Good luck in the fix!!!

I would say it's working correctly then. My bike is put away for the winter so I can't test it out but that seems correct operation. 

Are you saying this is a new thing or you've just never noticed it? 

@alpina the clutch switch does a number of things, for such a small, cheap and easily damaged device it’s important because it tells the ECU if the clutch is disengaged or not. That could mean several things as far as ECU programming goes: allows the bike to try to start if it’s in gear is one (so effectively a kill like the side stand switch. 
 

Another big thing it does is tell the ECU the bike is ready to move and if in first gear it raises the revs slightly as an “anti-stall” feature. As @NikenLeesaid that’s normal operation for this model so if that switch is not functioning because the lever isn’t hitting it or it’s been pushed out of the way it will affect your idle at all times and not just at a start.
 

If you’re saying your idle is fine, you pull the clutch and it raises then yeah, it’s working correctly. If it’s always raised, and never drops, then there is something amiss. So let’s start at the beginning if that is the case: when did it start doing this? What happened immediately preceding, was there a tip over, a service, did you change levers, did you lift up the tank and replace the air filter, did you replace tires? What happened, even if it seems insignificant, to possibly cause this change? 

Is your clutch switch connected and working correctly? That can cause an issue if it's not.

10 hours ago, Smokamoto said:

Ok new answer…this bike😄!

That bike better come to the US because I yesterday I put down a deposit with the hope it comes here. Dealer said it’s not confirmed but Yamaha US is slated to announce three new models in November, and this one is at the top of the list. Not the R9 I was pining for but close enough.  

Damn, man. Sorry this happened. 

Man, I am intrigued by this bike. I love the Tracer but it’s not really fulfilling the role I actually bought it for. Might be time to shake things up a bit……

1 hour ago, Heli ATP said:

I strictly use non-ethanol gas. On the rare occasion that I do, I make sure to run a couple of tanks of non-ethanol again before winter hibernation. Works for me.

 

Why does gas go bad in the winter?

 

 

Gasoline can form gummy deposits and layers of varnish that gunk up any part of the fuel system they can reach. Most gas contains some amount of ethanol, and that spells more trouble; ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water from the atmosphere. Cycling temperatures from warm to cold also increases the amount of condensation. Finally, ethanol cannot absorb as much water at low temperatures as it can when it's warmer, so the gasoline will phase separate sooner in colder temperatures. Once phase separation occurs, there is no way to reverse it.

Thank god you’re not on the Ducati forum I frequent or you’d get called out for such blasphemy by someone who live in the same state (Minnesota) as I do. When the topic of winter storage comes up, I’ve mentioned I use non-oxy fuel all year long because of ethanols water properties during idle times because my bikes sit for so long and have been told numerous times there is no “issue” and he keeps 40 gallons at his house all year long and uses it with no additives, without issue.
 

What you quoted is what I’ve seen, and personally experienced, but have been told several times I’m wrong, lol!!!