ItsTracerTime

9 hours ago, jthayer09 said:

Klim gloves don't have the double-cuff you're looking for, but many of them have a cinch-down at the end of the gauntlet that might work for you. Take a look through their catalogue.

 

Klim Togwotee gloves may be a good shot, just a Gore-Tex shell with a removable liner.

Klim makes a few with a neoprene cuff inside the glove at the wrist but it isn't as secure as the Frosto would be.. I do have Barkbusters Storm fitted which block a lot of wind from my hands so I may need to just put the gloves inside of the sleeves

17 hours ago, betoney said:

Just a thought but have you tried tucking the gauntlet of the glove on the inside of your jacket sleeve?  Riding jackets have velcro sleeves to tighten as well as loosen the cuff opening.

I actually thought about doing one glove that way and having the other opposite yesterday but forgot.

I usually do trailing edge over leading edge, so the water would in theory roll off the glove and up the jacket under wind instead of being able to blow up the sleeve. I have Barkbuster Storm guards fitted though and I think they give enough protection I may be able to try sleeve over glove.

After some rain riding, I finally got tired of having to be mindful of keeping my wrists above my elbows. If I reach down, the water on my jacket shell runs into my gloves (waterproof) and soaks the liner making my hands cold. Upon looking and looking, the only product that even comes close to what I'm looking for is the Frostos glove by RUKKA, but it's insulated.

Does any glove similar to this, with a storm/double cuff exist without insulation?

On 4/7/2024 at 8:32 PM, kilo3 said:

Those foam or rubber?

Rubber, maybe silicone? I bought 10 pairs from Northern Safety that took FOREVER to ship, but they're still $1.25 a pair or so. https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/p/94449/40770/tasco-tri-grip-reusable-earplugs

They do start out a little stiff, even with the cord out, but they quickly soften up after wearing them on a ride. I can tell the difference in a new pair but it's not an issue at all. I get more discomfort from the bottom of my ear being pressed against my head from my cheek pad.

Edit: be sure you do wash them occasionally, or you'll end up being unable to grab and pull them out of your ear unassisted. Not that I figured that out on my own. A paper napkin helps add friction while you grab if you're sweaty though, or so I've heard.

Tasco Tri-Grip.

Pull the cord out of them, trim about 1/8" off the stem with a knife so it fits in the helmet better and enjoy a nice 27NRR that you can barely feel

Home Depot/Lowe's sells small pieces of heat shrink for 8/2 wire, which happens to be a snug 7/8" inner diameter but maybe too thick compared to tape.

I'm still torn on OEM or Oxford, OEM would seemingly have to come from Europe and Oxford would require aftermarket terminals or wiring work to connect

For those who installed OEM...

Did you have to ship them from Europe? I google the part number for the kit and all I see is a few dealers in Italy and the UK selling them with no less than $30 shipping

So thanks to another thread on this forum, I learned that my '19 non-GT apparently has factory wiring for heated grips, much like it has the wiring for a quickshifter (which is an easy and worthwhile install).

Do the OEM part number grips work any better or worse than an aftermarket set? I know Yamaha wants like $200-something for theirs, and Oxford is about half - is there a solid brand where the grips themselves can be changed but keep the heating elements on the bar?

So the OEM part number (2PP829A00100) should be plug and play on the non-GT models right? The ECU will detect it, similar to the quickshifter?

6 minutes ago, betoney said:

Most of the popular aftermarket risers are 1" up and 1" back and the cables will fit fine but if you are expecting to add an additional 3" of height you might be pushing your luck with the stock cables.

I guess depending on how you mount them, these would accomplish close to a 1" square of movement.

Is there a decent company for new cables? Even if I do ProTaper bars, I would need longer so I may as well start figuring them out

I am looking at putting some different form of bar setup on my '19. I have 3 options in my head:

1. Add 2" ROX anti-vibration risers to it, to bring the bars up a bit and smooth them out a little
2. Mount taller risers to begin with, adding ROX to them and then running a flatter bar so I can mount stuff to the bars easier.
3. Switching to ProTaper ADV bars on stock risers and keeping the rest stock.

I need to know if the stock cables (clutch, throttle, electrical) are long enough for an extra 2-3" of bar height or if I need to order longer for them as well?

27 minutes ago, larolco said:

The new Tracer is going to be more than the budget will handle, but another 900GT is a possibility. There are a few kicking around in my market. The Tuareg and AT aren't really what I'm going for. Whatever I buy won't see anything rougher than gravel except through lack of planning. (One of the reasons I loved my old V-Strom was you could just head out and go wherever you wanted.) I've ridden an AT before but not the Tuareg. I liked the AT and, if I was a one-bike guy, it would be on the list, but I don't plan to sell the DRZ. I've got it set up to suit my needs and quite like it. It handles all my off-pavement riding nicely and I don't need anything for those purposes. 

I traded in my old beater Tacoma this summer on a new Tacoma. Probably I'll end up with another Tracer to replace the buggered Tracer. 

I did, however, come across this bike, which has me drooling:

Oh yeah the MV triples are incredibly gorgeous. If there's a dealer around and you want the Italian bike life, I don't think you could go wrong

On 11/3/2023 at 9:56 AM, thanks4thefish said:

Has anyone purchased aftermarket stainless brake lines for a 2017 FJ-09? Is there a ready make kit or best to bring my lines to a local shop?

If I totally remove all the lines will I have to do anything with the ABS system to restore it to normal?

TIA

I don't believe so, other than EXCESSIVELY purging the system once it's finished. That involves bleeding the system like normal, then going for a ride and making the ABS engage a little, bleed again, ride and make ABS trip again, bleed and you're done.

Either a new Tracer with cruise control and all of the tech, or an Africa Twin probably? I'd consider a Tuareg as well because they're designed to be worked on easily in the middle of nowhere

On 10/28/2023 at 3:24 PM, RD52 said:

Please let us know how they work out.

They are unfortunately too slim in the waist, much to my chagrin, as every review mentioned regarding the size chart. They do fit my Toucans, but not my twoass(cheeks) very well.

However, I now have a size 50EU pair of Klim Kodiaks for sale that I need to post here... Or trade for a 52 if someone has a pair

On 10/23/2023 at 9:15 AM, RD52 said:

Can't tell for sure, but it looks to me like the side zips don't go up far enough to make putting them on over boots very easy.

That's one of my key requirements for rain pants, they have to be quick and easy to get on road-side.

I have a pair of Klim Kodiak on the way from eBay.. hopefully they fit over my boots

Has anyone had success with something like an REI Xerodry GTX full zip or similar hiking gear?

I have a 2019 so the mounting may be different, I run a CalSci Large screen (with the mount in the lowest position on the bike), with 1" chopped off of each side (clears my mirrors) and a deflector on the very top.

It puts air right at my forehead vent, so if I stand up I get perfect air at the chest vent on my jacket and minimal buffeting unless I'm behind a vehicle making a lot of turbulence.

24k Valve check, all of them were within spec so I didn't bother making any adjustments. She's purring like a kitten again, and I swapped the dry and cracked vacuum caps (for throttle body syncs) so hopefully that fixes the random hot-weather engine dying I get on VERY rare occasions

So for everyone, myself included, who checked them pre-24k...I did mine at 16k and they were slightly out.

I am now at 24k, do I need to check them again or do I base the 24k interval off of my last 16k check, and recheck at 30k?

2 hours ago, betoney said:

You can get kits that offer both options.  If you are going to replace the lines, it is MUCH easier to replace the entire line instead of piecing them together.  The old lines can be cut out and thrown away fairly easily.

From a performance aspect though, is it not better to leave hardlines in the bike where they are already? I've only seen kits that replace everything, never the shorter runs only

For those of you who have converted to braided lines, did you remove the ABS stuff or did you run from the adapters (manifolds?) at the front and rear down into the rotors. In theory, those bits where the hard lines and soft lines meet should be threaded for standard banjo fittings, no?

Edit: I should specify NOT the ABS unit under the tank, I'm referring to the hard-line assemblies that run out of that to the front and rear where the soft lines come into play

New chain and sprockets today..

Bike was purchased a year ago with 14,xxx miles on it and it just hit 23k. I probably should have replaced them around 6k ago but I was lazy and figured I'd go until the axle was out of adjustment. Nope, the old one finally hit a point of no return on Monday and now it feels like a new bike just from hthe drivetrain

Well, after looking at a brand new one (thanks to the part number) it seems as if mine is actually doing fine. It just has some wear on the leading edge where the plates have made contact when the chain bites it, but the actual ramp that the rollers would touch looks fine.

Still, for $14 I'll order a spare just to have it but also keep a better eye on my chain slack

My bike is just about at 21,000 miles, and I've noticed that the sacrificial slider on the top of the swingarm is definitely worn a bit. I want to replace it, but can not find the OEM part number on Partzilla or anywhere else.

Is there a part number for it even, or is it just part of the swingarm assembly? Aftermarket options?