ItsTracerTime

Mine sits between (Fahrenheit) 140-ish and 190-ish when moving depending on ambient, will definitely kick the fans on at a light when it's super warm out though.

As I'm sure you've all probably experienced when washing your bike, the seat does not fully "seal" the cavity under it - where your battery and other electrical parts are. Water can also slip in between the passenger/pillion seats, and soak any contents too.

Is there a good fix for this, to at least keep hose water from splashing in there? I plan on getting a Corbin eventually, which I think would alleviate it but for now I want to keep things dry-er. I have a 3d printer, but could I make some gasket type of setup using foam weather stripping?

Finally got around to putting an anti-glare protector on the dash of my '19. Doesn't completely remove the glare, as the screen still gets washed out in direct sunlight but it definitely cuts down on the eye-piercing reflection that would always be shining at me when it was mid-day.

Also got Hotwired heated gloves, makes such a difference even if they don't completely bake my hands.

I guess $80ish a piece is pretty good, that may end up being my route in the near future

That's what I feared..

Anyone have an FJ on here and not use the passenger pegs?

Cycle Gear/RevZilla has a sale on HotWired 12v stuff right now, 20% off.

I grabbed a pair of the heated leather gloves and so far they're pretty solid. They only heat the back of the hand, (where it matters IMO) and would work great in conjunction with heated grips.

My circulation is bad, so I haven't had to take them off of High yet (default on-state, controlled on gloves directly) but they are solid for the price.

I ride in full race boots (SMX Plus V2 Vented, it's a mouthful) and plan on getting a new set for colder months or rain, probably the SMX 6 Goretex or Toucans.

With the stock passenger pegs on the 2019 Tracer, my heels touch them when I have the ball of my foot on MY peg, pushing my toes forward and into a less than ideal spot. Could I buy a set from an FJ/MT/XSR to swap over? The only passenger I anticipate on having is under 5'6", so even pegs that are an inch higher or farther back would suffice. I could also fabricate some out of steel round stock or tubing if needed - I do know how to weld.

Frogg Toggs are good but mine seem to get shredded around the waistband, if velcro touches it at all.

I am thinking about RevIT Sand 4 H2O because of the removable liners (thermal mainly) but can't quite decide.

REV'IT Tracer Overshirt (I am dead serious, that's the name of it)

Alpinestars Halo Drystar (just got it, love it)

Alpinestars Andes V3 (2 year on it, it's fine but gets toasty and I despise the awful collar on it)

Scorpion leather track jacket (was on sale for cheap, first jacket I ever bought).

The Halo is becoming my favorite, I just need to get used to the offset main zipper, and the rest of the zipper placements. It's a heavy jacket but it's incredibly well built and extremely versatile.

Finally got to ride my new Road 6 tires and K-Tech fork springs, feels like an entirely new bike now. Need to tweak preload/sag for sure, and probably tire pressure as well as rebound damping, but it rides dead straight and doesn't want to wiggle like it used to around 40mph.

For anyone wondering, I am about 185-190lbs in gear and did the following:

0.9n springs from K-Tech

5W Maxima fork oil at 130mm gap

Michelin Road 6 32F/38R

On 11/13/2022 at 6:47 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

I still use my F & R PB paddock stands, as the center stand is a bit low with the PB front.

But both alternate methods work WITHOUT the skid plate installed. 

I found out just the other day that my combo PB front stand (and my cheaper similar ft stand) will not work with radial caliper forks!!!  I'm going to call PB on this one!

I've always before added the steering head pin yolk and lifted from there even with the PITA need to 1st remove my dual pancake horns and oem weather plug.

I'll have to ponder some alternative methods.  I have a gantry I made eons ago to lift and suspend the front or rear without the CS or paddock stand; the rear is hung from the rear subframe and front from frame spars near the head. Works great for swing arm, shock and steering head bearing maintainence.

What do you mean your PB combo won't work? That's the model I was looking at buying

On 11/12/2022 at 7:19 PM, piotrek said:

Why would it need to be Pit-Bull? I understand that they are pro quality big-brand tools, but... 🤔.

I have had cheap(er) front and rear paddock stands for years and they worked just fine for occasional home use. I have managed to find ways to not use them at all on the FJ. YMMV.

because rocket science lol

I ended up grabbing the pair off of CL for $100, and the front stand is like 1-2" too short for the Tracer and is not adjustable so it's currently sitting on wood to shim it to a height that I can remove the front wheel. Upon shimming it to remove the front wheel, I learned that it also is not big enough in the base so I had to remove my front fender to allow the wheel to come out.

Is it the end of the world? No, but Pitbull is designed the right way and I know it would last me forever

I just found a set of front and rear stands on the local classified, $100 for the set but it's not pitbull. It'll work for what I'm needing, and I can eventually sell them to a buddy and get a proper front stand to match my rear right?

Those are both very good ideas, I didn't think about removing the front first and resting the forks on something!

The title is a little misleading, as I have spools and a rear stand for the bike (as well as the OEM center stand) but I can not figure out a STABLE and SAFE way to get the bike in the air to remove both wheels simultaneously.

On spools, it barely lifts higher than the center stand puts it but if I flip the bits on the Pitbull stand around to the red pasta looking end, it lifts the center stand off the ground at the cost of some stability. I've come up with a few options that don't involve buying a $300 stand for the front.

1: I can try to put it on spools and then remove the rear, and then attempt to jack the bike under the oil pan (center stand up) so it pivots around the spools with no interference from the wheel hitting the ground.

2: Do the above but on the center stand instead of spools

3: Use my Craftsman jack/lift and shim the underside of the bike with random bits of wood to protect the exhaust, and then ratchet strap the bike in place on the lift to remove the wheels..

Is there a better way? It's miserably cold outside but I just bought new tires and don't want to freeze myself to death riding to get them changed.

I think it was a combination of throttle body sync and original battery.

Threw my Shorai in about 780mi ago, issue significantly reduced. Did the TB sync about 300mi ago, have had NO problems since. It does still stumble/sound weak occasionally on hot starts, such as getting gas, but it does start

Y'know now that I think of it... The caps for the vacuum lines on the throttle bodies had some cracks in them, but I did not see that they had split.

$6 at AutoZone and an hour or so in the garage might be my next move, I completely forgot that I didn't replace those yesterday

3 minutes ago, OZVFR said:

Firing intervals are 240, and that shouldn’t make any difference. 
they all start very easily and idle smoothly hot or cold, at least mine does. 
something else is going on if you’re still having problems. 
Did it only start after your valve adjustment? Can't recall it ever DYING before the valves, but it did drop below 1100 and then catch itself a few times, and it high-idled a few times as well. If yes then it must have something to do with that  

Any chance you got timing wrong, or adjusted incorrectly? The bike wouldn't run correctly under load if it was out right? It rides and sounds (exhaust, general motor noises) like it always did, and matches another Tracer I know in that regard.

How about clutch switch? Seems good, works as it should. Would it affect the idle going low?

ECU connector? Inserted fully, solid.

 

Reviving this thread.

I have done a throttle body sync (all bodies are within a single line on the carbtune pro, at idle and up to about 7k rpm just to check it), and I have rechecked all electrical connections and vacuum/breather hoses under the tank that may have been touched when doing the valves. Yes, the valves were set to within spec when I did them. I don't want to pull the cover and check again lol

Bike hit 17k miles, did the sync yesterday. Feels like it responds to throttle better, possibly a little smoother overall. HOWEVER it still has a rough hot-start and occasionally dips below 1100rpm when it spins down at a stop or when the clutch is in.

I have not had it die at idle like it did before, I think that can be attributed to putting my Shorai lithium battery in it, as I think the AGM battery it had was going out. That was done about 600mi ago and I have not had to restart the bike from a random stall.

Any other thoughts? Throttle cable is in spec, clutch as well. does the CP3 just not like to hot-start because of it's firing order being 270 degrees instead of a more even 90 or 180?

On 8/20/2022 at 2:43 AM, dazzler24 said:

Ah OK.  So I think that 'no' is the the short answer when it comes to being able to access the screws with the airbox still attached - and by the looks of some responses above by the experienced it confirms it.

You are correct lol... Unless you have a tiny screwdriver and can get a weird angle I don't think it's doable.

Syncing made the bike feel smoother, although that could be placebo

On 8/18/2022 at 1:47 AM, dazzler24 said:

I've always done mine with the airbox removed.

Can you get access to the adjusters with it still in-situ?

Not sure, I haven't done it yet but was curious if it was possible

On 8/12/2022 at 2:01 AM, OZVFR said:

It could also be your centre stand bouncing on the spring over bumps and hitting the stop on the way back up which is on the right side.

You....are a genius. I haven't confirmed that yet but never considered it as a thing that happened lol

On 3/31/2022 at 1:14 AM, dazzler24 said:

That's almost word for word of what the mechanic said!  You're all over it 2and 3. 🙂

On another note, I found that when doing my throttle body sync the white screw no longer cut it as master so now I've got a new 'master'.  Was 3 and now 2.  I noticed at the last sync it was very marginal but now enough of a change in the vacuum to warrant the switch.

Did you do the sync with the airbox mounted or removed? I just ordered a carbtune, and think I can do it WITH the airbox on, but have only seen it done with it removed... I'm sure that affects the sync right?

My 2019 has the typical clutch noise in neutral with the clutch let out, as soon as you pull it the noise goes away. My buddies 2019 XSR 900 does it as well, and we have similar mileage on the bikes.

Aside from that, every once in a while I get a very noticeable KNOCK feeling in the foot pegs, typically the right peg. No idea what it is but it wouldn't surprise me if I'm kicking a rock or something up.

I also have to check my TB sync, as if you've seen my thread, the bike occasionally drops past idle when stopping and snuffs the motor out. Completely random, hard to replicate. I actually put my Shorai battery in it (sorry, XV920) and the issue has not happened yet so I am thinking that the old AGM was on its' way out and wasn't able to keep the EFI running if the stator wasn't pumping enough current.

Depending on your location and what you end up doing, it could be $700+

Near me, valve check/adjust AND coolant flush+change was like $800 including labor. I did it myself in about 7-8 hours total and learned how to get access to the top end easily