captainscarlet

3 hours ago, piotrek said:

It's just a hair under 6mm. I think you will need a tool with the straight and angled pin end combination to make this work. The fit needs to be precise for the tool to be effective.

Ok thanks for that.  I've measured the pin holes on the K-tech collar and they are exactly 4mm in diameter and 8mm deep.  This means, unfortunately, that the Nitron tool is too large.  Looks like it might have to be the punch that BBB linked to.

CS

6 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I have the same shock. You do know to loosen the set screw on the bottom adjusteder first? I think it's a 3 mm socket head screw.  I trimmed off square the end of the K-Tech spanner so it would fit in the Yamaha OEM shock spanner and wrench extension for more leverage.  You CAN rotate the preload ring around a little bit at a time.  The small holes will accept a hardened flat end steel pin (can't remember the diameter) to also rotate the preload ring.  My shock has a custom Torrington bearing but for some reason Matt installed it at the upper end of the spring. When I remove the swing arm to grease the bearings and linkage, I'm going to move the Torrington bearing to the bottom where I think it should be. Regardless, it is a PITA to adjust preload. The pin adjuster should have a bend in it to help access, and both ends can be used.  Penske shocks use a pin "wrench" but it's much larger in diameter.

Yes I am aware of the set screw.  I think I need to find a suitable pin wrench.

CS

6 hours ago, piotrek said:

My Nitron has a similar preload ring I think. I use a pin tool and it is quite effective. I have to alternate between the straight and angled end as I work the ring. Works for me. Maybe K-Tech has a similar tool or could refer you to a third party solution. You could probably adapt the Nitron tool but would have to grind the ends to fit the holes in the ring. Would weaken the tool though. Good luck.

Ahh that Nitron tool looks just the ticket.  Do you think you might be able to stick a micrometer on the end of that pin and measure the diameter?

CS

1 hour ago, 1moreroad said:

Screwdriver and rubber mallet. 

Yeah, I've given that a bit of a try but am loath to do too much as it mars the collar.

CS

Evening all!

Quick question to those among you who enjoy twiddling your suspension.  I have a K-tech Razor R Lite rear shock fitted, the one without the remote preload adjuster.  K-tech nicely included a c-spanner, however as access to the collar is appalling once fitted to the bike I can only use the spanner for part of a turn.  Once that part turn is made I can't get the spanner into position to get another part turn.  The adjustment collar has a combination of troughs and round pin holes for inserting tools into.  Does anybody in a similar predicament have any recommendations for an alternative tool?  I'm sort of regretting being a cheapskate and wishing I'd coughed up for the remote preload version....

CS

Three in fact and all different incarnations of the fabulous 955i engine. First up was a beautiful Daytona 955i:

Whilst fabulous and great to ride when pressing on I found the Daytona simply too uncomfortable for daily riding.  I sold it on and bought my first brand new bike.  A Triumph Sprint RS.  Fantastic combination of practicality and fun.  Looks great in burnt orange too.

The RS was sold to make way for an 1150GS and a couple of other bikes in between my next Trumpet.  Bought after a short layoff from biking a really nice Sprint ST in classic British Racing Green.

I kept the ST for a year and sold it to buy my second brand new bike, my fantastic Tracer.

All three Triumphs were great bikes and performed flawlessly.  They got me hooked on the triple engine.

CS

32 minutes ago, betoney said:

I cant help you with dealers or service locations.   I am assuming that you are referring to kilometers?  What is involved in the 24,000km service? the valves aren't scheduled for adjustment until 42,000km (26,600miles).  

I have had my valves checked/adjusted twice already at 44,000 miles and paid about what you were quoted for BOTH services.  

You're mixing your units there Betoney.  The Brits are still on imperial miles like you colonials.  It's us enlightened Europhiles that drive around in kilometres. 

CS

Thanks for all the input chaps; as ever this forum does not disappoint.

I think at this stage I'm gonna go for EBC HH pads and possibly new original size but not necessarily OE manufactured discs.  At some point in the future when it's time to replace the OE lines I will upgrade to steel versions.

CS

29 minutes ago, nhchris said:

Wow! I've never owned a bike which recommended replacing brake line every four years!  (Fluid maybe, but not the lines.)

Is this another "Yamaha maintenance thing" like spark plugs every 4k miles?

My little FJ is starting to rival a Ducati in terms of wrenching required.  YIKES!

I'm pretty sure most bike manufacturers have the same recommendations.  It's not unique to Yamaha.  According to my handbook spark plugs are every 20000 km or 12000 miles in old money.

CS

13 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

The line Install is not hard if you take your time and have moderate wrenching skills, I cut the factory line to speed removal. The hardest part of the job is not getting brake fluid on any painted surface. Make sure you have a shop manual and use it. Also take a lot of pictures of line routing before you take anything apart.

Ok thanks. Just to clarify, what are you cutting and where on the diagram below?

CS

4 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

I'm running EBC HH sinsterd pads. Speigler lines and 320mm front rotors. The biggest Improvements are the Speigler lines and good quality pads.

Can you say something about installing the lines?  Did you do it yourself and is it the pig of a job everyone says?

CS

Winter is showing no sign of releasing its grip just yet and that has triggered thoughts of bike mods in me.  I had convinced myself that nothing needed doing to the Tracer this winter but I've suddenly found myself thinking about brakes.

I have read numerous posts and the most effective mod seems to be simply replacing the brake pads, with the hot favourite being EBC's HH pads, specifically FA252HH.  Is this still the case or are there other brands I should be looking at?

Another thought that popped up was changing the brake lines to stainless steel.  I am actually due a brake fluid change and thought "why not do the lines while the fluid is out".  However I'm somewhat confused about swapping out the lines.  In my ignorance I thought it would simply be a case of changing 3 lines: one from front master cylinder to left front brake caliper, one from front left caliper to front right caliper and one from rear master cylinder to rear caliper.  However some googling suggests that I also need to change the lines from the master cylinders to the ABS pump?  I'm somewhat confused about this because the lines to and from the ABS pump are already a solid tube aren't they?  In that case why do they need replacing?  Regardless, the question also arises how much of a difference steel lines really make in the grand scheme of things?  My existing rubber lines are in very good condition and I'm certainly not going to follow the ridiculous advice in the handbook that says these must be changed every 4 years just because.

Another area of consideration is of course discs.  I did notice in the latter weeks of my riding before winter hibernation that I had a slight pulsing from my brakes.  I cleaned the discs but it's still there.  It's not bad but now that I know it's there I do notice it.  From what I've read on this and other forums it's not that uncommon.  Obviously I could change the discs, which will also entail new pads, but what is the considered wisdom on replacement discs?  I'm not sure I want to faff around with bigger discs unless the swap is relatively straightforward.

Any and all input appreciated.

CS

1 hour ago, BBB said:

Whilst talking to Simon, he said that the Scorpion baffle is very restrictive. So much so that with the baffle in, the bike makes less power than standard as it cannot flow the exhaust gas fast enough. He has raised this with Scorpion, but they have designed it this way to make it EC compliant (homologated).  His suggestion was to drill some holes in the end of the baffle, which I've done in a pleasingly random pattern.

If you ride with the Scorpion baffle in, try drilling the end and see if it makes a difference for you. If not, a few blobs of weld and you can close up the holes again easily if you don't like it.

That is very useful info.  I will have to have a go at drilling mine.  Simon is really good, with great attention to detail.

CS

14 hours ago, BBB said:

Holy corrosion Batman!  That is one manky looking underside, apart from the spangly new oil cooler.  Consequence of year-round UK riding I guess.

CS

I've thought a little about this also.

One reflection I have is that quite frankly the Tracer/FJ-09 is just too good.  What I mean by that is that it has very few foibles.  Given that the bike is now five years old the initial rush of identifying standard issues and popular accessories has died down. We have a library of how-tos and such which cover most topics so there isn't really anything new to write about.  That I think reflects the traffic on the forum which is mostly about what people have been doing in their free time or what trips they're planning. Newbies to the forum can immerse themselves in the wealth of info that is on the forum without necessarily having to start threads.

CS

4 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Sorry if this has been explained before but can someone please advise me if the two connectors as shown in the photo below are from the 2A fuses marked as AUX1 & AUX2 or other?? And also if so, are they switched power?

TIA

Grey and Black connectors in boot near R/H fork leg:-

 

It is my understanding and experience that the 2 amp Aux 1 and 2 fuses are for the connectors behind the dashboard.  I have used one of them to connect my Oxford heated grips and the other to wire in a USB socket in the spare hole in the right hand side of the cockpit.

Dunno what the connecters near the fork leg are connected to.

CS

4 hours ago, BBB said:

Save your money @captainscarlet and rejoice in the unique capability of the 2015 to check and clear codes via the dash using DIAG mode.

Good point although being a bit of a gadget lover I had been quite looking forward to interrogating the inner workings of my Tracer via my mobile phone. 🙂

CS 

In April of next year my 2015 Tracer will be five years old and the factory warranty will expire.  Under the warranty period I have had the bike serviced at a Yamaha dealer but will now switch over to servicing myself.  In fact I've already begun, having given the bike a thorough service at home before putting it into hibernation in October.

Whilst my bike has never shown me the check engine light in anger I am interested in purchasing an OBD2 reader to check and reset codes as necessary.  However I'm having great difficulty determining if this option is even open to me. A quick Google reveals that there are plenty of options for buying a Yamaha connector to OBD2 adapter cable.  However every seller I've found states in their description something like the following:

Support list:
YZF R1 2016- current
YZF R6 2017- current
MT-10 2016-current
MT-09 2016-current
TRACER 09 2016 -current
MT-07 2017-current
XSR-700 2017-current
TRACER 700 2017-current
FJR 1300 2016-current
as well as other models with 4 pin diagnostic connector.

What is CAN Bus? CAN Bus is the latest electronic communication type on motor vehicles.
Which Yamaha models are covered? Starting 2015 onwards. Though it is model dependent. Some models 2017 onwards.

The above is more than a little confusing. The list clearly states that the Tracer is covered but only from 2016 onwards.  However the text underneath states that models are covered from 2015 onwards.  Personally I was not aware of any difference in spec between 2015 models and 2016 models, more than colour that is.  In fact I've checked the Yamaha parts catalogue and 2015 and 2016 bikes have exactly the same part no. for the ECU, 2SC-8591A-00.  The 2017 ECU is part no. 2SC-8591A-60.  I'm assuming its the ECU part no. that determines whether its OBD2 reader capable or not.

A quick trawl of this forum gave the following:

One of the posts in the above thread clearly states that OBD2 will not work on 2015 to 2016 bikes.

My ideal solution would be to buy an adapter cable and a suitable OBD2 bluetooth dongle.  Is this possible?

Any and all insights appreciated.

CS

1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

I think you meant No worries mate!  But I'll take it!

Cheers 🍺

Now we're getting really off topic but as I understood it Norries is slang/an abbreviation for No worries?

CS

3 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

My apologies @captainscarlet if I mangled the Swedish Language but in my defence I lay the blame solely at the feet of Google Translate. 🙂

Snälla förlåt mina synder.

Norries mate! 

😉

CS

All the best, and no regrets.

However if you turn up here with another Tracer in a couple of months then we will burn you! 😈

CS 

8 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

C'mon BugsInTeeth!  It's pretty obvious what the captain said!.....

😎😉

In fact that's not a bad translation! You certainly get the main points of what I said.

CS

2 hours ago, BugsInTeeth said:

WHUT   ?

 

Apologies folks, brain fade on my part.  I thought I was writing a PM to OneMan when in fact I was responding in the forum thread. 😲

22 hours ago, OneMan said:

Whats up riders <3'

I have thought for some time now about having my Ecu flashed. I have never had a bike or been test riding a bike that has been ecu flashed but it seems nice to have all those restrictions removed i feel like. But there is one thing i want answered.

Tja!

Som BBB sa längre ner i tråden så har jag mappat om min Tracer (2015), dock i England. Du hittar en länk längre ner i tråden. Innan jag valde S-TEC performance var jag i kontakt med Yamahacenter i Helsingborg som också utföra mappning. Om jag minns rätt vill de ha 5-6000kr för jobbet och man kan skicka sin ECU till de med Posten. Har för mig att de använda sig av samma programvara som många andra, från Woolich Racing.

Men som sagt jag valde att använda Simon på S-TEC i England då han har utvecklat mappar specifikt för Tracern och övriga MT-motorer från Yamaha och har blivit någonting av en specialist på våra cyklar. Även han har en tjänst där du kan maila in din ECU. Jag passade på när jag var på en Englands resa tidigare i år och fick mappningen gjort på plats. Jag betalade £300 motsvarande  3700kr vilket är betydligt mindre än Yamahacenter. Om du skicka din ECU till honom är det något billigare då han inte behöver tar betalt för att plocka bort och återmontera ECU:n. 

Jag är hel nöjd med mappningen och kan värmt rekommendera Simon. Vet inte vars du bor i Sverige men under vintern är det verkligen läge att skicka iväg ECU:n. Skicka ett mail till Simon. Han är bra på att svara på frågor och förklarar hur mappningen fungerar och vad man får för förbättringar.

Hälsningar

CS

11 hours ago, BBB said:

Pretty sure @captainscarletlives around there @OneMan. Although also recall he got his ECU flashed in the UK during a riding trip. Still, he’ll have the details and the tuner probably does mail order.

 

I refer the honourable gentleman to my earlier response 😉

CS