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captainscarlet

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  1. captainscarlet

    The Great Brexit Road Trip 2019

    Civilisation you say. Remember we are travelling two months after the UK has dumped itself out of the EU and into total chaos. I'm picturing a Mad Max style environment myself....😜 CS
  2. captainscarlet

    The Great Brexit Road Trip 2019

    Thanks Fd, however do you think you could edit your post as most of the text is white and almost impossible to read. CS
  3. Thought I'd consult the fountain of knowledge that is this forum. In May of this year me (a Brit expat) and 4 Swedish mates will be doing a 2 week tour from Northern Sweden to the UK, taking in SE England, the North and Scotland, with a possible quick hop over to the Isle of Man during TT practice week. The broad strokes are to tank it down to Holland in 3 days and take a ferry over to Harwich. Return journey 2 weeks later will be via Newcastle and a ferry back to Holland, before the long slog back up to Northern Sweden. I have a 2015 Tracer with the original semi-hard panniers that were/are available in Europe and am thinking of adding a Kappa rack and top box (probably K48N). Also thinking about a small tank bag. We are planning to not book accommodation and just play it by ear, but I will also likely take a tent, sleeping bag etc. My question to the esteemed panel is what would you consider essential to pack on a tour of this nature. I know there are many experienced tourers among our membership and I would be grateful for a few insights. As with all these sorts of things I'm a big believer in less is more.... CS
  4. captainscarlet

    To beak or not to beak .....

    Here's another Ebay offering, shipped from China: https://tinyurl.com/yd5j33qs Half the price of Powerbronze.... CS
  5. captainscarlet

    Disapointed...

    Hmm I don't know what you've been reading but let me add my view. As far as I'm aware there is one, perhaps two people on this board who have reported valve/head problems with a less than clear picture as to the cause. There are more than 5000 members on this forum so that makes 0.04% who have not reported a problem. The CCT "problem" has been overinflated by a number of owners insisting on replacing fully functioning CCTs. That's not to say there haven't been problems with CCTs. However if you trawl the forums of many other bikes including Hondas, Suzukis, Kawazakis etc you will find hundreds (even thousands) of posts regarding problematic CCTs. This is not an issue unique to the CP3 engine. As regards oil leaks, I must admit I can't recall reading many if any posts about those. It simply isn't a problem as far as I can tell. A few people have cracked their sumps riding over poor surfaces but the vast majority have had no problems. The CP3 engine is the same in all three bikes providing 87Nm of torque and 115HP. The FJ engine is not tamed down as you put it. I'm guessing in your trawl of the forums you missed all the posts from the satisfied owners and all the long-term reports in the motorcycling press that have stripped down CP3 engines after 50000 km and found them to be in perfect condition. If you think you'll have more fun or better reliability on the Tiger or BMW you're deluding yourself. I know because I researched both those bikes thoroughly before buying the Tracer. CS
  6. Well there you go I stand corrected. Just eaten a nice big piece of humble pie and corrected my previous post. 🥧 Apologies to Dundee. CS
  7. Edited some while later to account for my own lack of facts 😱 I'm not aware that they have changed the block. There are two, or even more, different versions of the cam chain tensioner because (like many other manufacturers) Yamaha have had trouble with some of their tensioners. The different versions of the tensioner are completely interchangeable between all the model years for the CP3 engine. The only change associated with one of the tensioner upgrades was to change one of the bolts holding the valve cover in place, to increase oil flow. All other engine compenents remained the same! The CP3 engine does not have an oil cooler! At the bottom end as you put it, the oil pan has been changed to move the drain bolt to the front of the oil pan. The original oil pan had the bolt on the bottom with a protective flange in front of it. Some people had problems with ground clearance, catching the original drain plug and breaking the pan. Many others (including myself) have had no ground clearance issues with the original oil pan. Nothing else on the block was changed to accommodate the new pan, which is fully interchangeable between model years for the CP3 engine. I've now learned that the CP3 engine does have an oil cooler and that it was changed from a round one to a square one for model year 2017 onwards. I haven't spent the time studying the parts fiche to see if there are any other changes in the block. It's still not clear though if these changes are in any way related to valve related wear issues connected to the OP's original problem. I'm afraid your post doesn't seem to contain any factually correct elements. Further as regards changing components/part nos. manufacturers are doing so ALL the time for any number of reasons. Also the CP3 engine has been in production since 2014 so it's now getting on for five years old, a lifetime in the motor industry. CS
  8. captainscarlet

    Tyre Pressure poll

    The above is completely wrong and the opposite is in fact the case. If you're going to be doing track riding increasing your pressures is not great! At the track you actually want to reduce the normal road riding tyre pressure to compensate for that fact the tyre will heat up and the pressure will increase because the tyres are working a lot harder than they would on the road. In response to the poll I ride with Yamaha's recommended tyre pressures from the owners manual: 36 psi front and 42 psi rear. CS
  9. captainscarlet

    FJ 09 Issue Advice for Newbies

    Oh dear it would seem you've been duped by the "facts" published in Wikipedia . The Tracer 900 name only came into use for the 2018 model year to differentiate between the standard Tracer and the GT version. For model years 15 up to and including 17 the UK/Euro bikes are called MT-09 Tracer. CS
  10. captainscarlet

    Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

    Good point, I'd forgotten that the CCT was suspected to be the original culprit in all of this. CS
  11. captainscarlet

    Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

    Ok well according to your results your somewhere between 0.20 and 0.25 on two cylinders on the exhaust side. I would say that's acceptable given that spec is 0.26 to 0.30, ok it's not spec but it's not far off and above 0.20. Intake valves should be between 0.11 and 0.20 so they are a little tight it would seem. This might be the cause of your problem. Before doing anything else I would suggest getting all your valves in spec and trying to run the bike. I saw from your later post that your compression test equipment now seems to be suspect. Like I said I'd get your valves in spec first and have another go at firing her up. CS
  12. captainscarlet

    Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

    Ok I'm going to ask some potentially stupid questions here so please don't be offended. I often pose these questions to myself when doing mechanical jobs ?. The leak down values seem a little strange to me. Values of 10% or less indicate an engine in great shape which means cylinder 1 is good. On that basis it seems strange that 2 and 3 would be as bad as they are. Here comes stupid question no. 1: did you rotate the crank between each test to make sure that each cylinder was at it's tdc with valves fully closed before testing? Regarding your exhaust valves, what were the actual values you recorded? You say that .25mm wouldn't fit, but which feeler gauge gave you the correct drag? The lower end of the exhaust valve tolerances is .26mm according to the factory manual. So if you're in that neighborhood then things are probably ok. I have read a number of forum posts where people have measured clearances on a factory fresh engine and found them to be around .15mm for the exhaust valves. This means that Yamaha is either building them tight or the manual is wrong; wouldn't be the first time, drive chain tension anyone? Anyway worth a triple check before you start pulling more out of the engine. CS
  13. captainscarlet

    Scorpion Serket Taper Stainless slip-on

    I have been in contact with Scorpion about the possibility of being able to paint the red ring on the end of the silencer. It would look the biz if I could get it Yamaha blue. This is their response, which may be of interest to others who have a Scorpion can but a non-red Tracer: The red ring in the outlet is actually metal that’s been coated, it’s a push fit so can be removed but you’d need to be very careful not to damage the outlet cap if attempting this. We send them away to be painted so not sure if it’s something you could do yourself. I'm not sure I'm willing to risk the beautifully made exhaust with my ham-fisted attempts to prise the ring out....not yet at least. Still don't let that stop anybody else giving it a go. CS
  14. captainscarlet

    Scorpion Serket Taper Stainless slip-on

    Well I started with Autosol but realised very quickly that I needed more oomph. So I went to town with a relatively fine grit sand paper. Can't remember exactly what grit, I think maybe 400. After that I used a cloth polishing wheel and metal polish block in my compressor driven handheld polishing wheel. This allowed me to get into most of the tight spots along the pipes. After that I went over everything by hand with the Autosol to bring out the final finish. No real tricks, just elbow grease. CS
  15. captainscarlet

    Scorpion Serket Taper Stainless slip-on

    I think it all depends on the thickness of the weld. I decided to cut in the middle of the weld seam, literally right against the silencer box. I was able to get a straight cut but was left with quite a bite of material to remove. Still with an angle grinder that was accomplished fairly quickly and I achieved a nice smooth surface for the Scorpion connecting pipe to slide onto. If I remember correctly I think I was left with just shy of 15 mm to the O2 sensor. I must confess I was also stood there at one point, holding the bracket and thinking that they must have sent the wrong one by mistake. However what I did, as I alluded to in the original post, was that I offered everything up the bike first to get everything lined up. I fitted the bracket first but just loosely so it could rotate/swing in its mounting. Once I'd got the silencer and connecting pipe at the right angles everything lined up nicely. I did not need to bend the bracket at all. The tricky part is being able to rotate the connecting pipe if necessary as it is very snug (which is good) on the downpipe. CS
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