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captainscarlet

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captainscarlet last won the day on February 20

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  1. As per the title. I am currently researching non Yamaha quick shifters and wonder if there's any experience on this board? In the running so far are: HM HealTech Translogic At the moment based on web/YouTube reviews I'm leaning towards the Translogic as that appears to better cope with a wider range of revs when upshifting. So if anybody has an aftermarket, non ECU-flash dependent device I'd love to hear about it. CS
  2. Given your intended mounting location I would like to recommend the Cosmo GPS mount which sits behind the windscreen. I have used it to mount my iPhone 6S in an Ultimateaddons case: According to the retailers website they even ship to The Colonies. CS
  3. I'm gonna keep up the psychological warfare I'm afraid.....🤪 I also thought about just buying an adapter like the one you've purchased, until I read the many threads complaining that they always vibrate loose in the socket and stop charging whatever's plugged into them. That's what prompted me to install a fixed USB-socket in the empty hole on the right hand side of the dashboard. Might be worth considering given that you're planning a long journey. CS
  4. You've almost certainly not adjusted the rebound screw on the fork cap correctly. Before you put the fork cap back on you need to wind it in i.e. clockwise the number of clicks specified in the handbook: 11. Once you've done that screw the cap back on until it stops. Check by winding the rebound screw fully out i.e. anti-clockwise and you should get 11 clicks. Wind clockwise 11 clicks again and snug up the lock nut to the fork cap. Lift the fork outer tube up to the fork cap and screw the cap back into the fork tube. Double check again that you have 11 clicks range on the rebound. Job done. CS
  5. I think you're over thinking it. The standard cig socket has two wires going to it, plus and minus. It is essentially exactly the same as the new voltmeter/usb socket you have bought. CS
  6. I don't know about giant. The Swedish standard is 17 cm x 15 cm and according to Google, the US tag measures 18 cm x 10 cm. So there´s not what you'd call a huge difference in size. Still I'm quite happy for my plate to double as a mudguard as it keeps the bike clean. CS
  7. Today I have installed one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-MT-09-Tail-Tidy-Fender-Eliminator-2013-2014-2015-2016-MT09-Tracer/162420952247?hash=item25d10b0cb7:g:21EAAOSwtaRa50PD It is a really good bit of kit and at £25 very reasonably priced. I think the likes of R&G and others are charging stupid money for similar offerings. It is robust metal, well painted and includes a led number plate light plus all the fasteners required to fit it to the bike. It is compatible with the Tracer's existing indicators as well as aftermarket versions. The bikes existing wiring is used intact apart from cutting the number plate light cable at the number plate light end to fit the new number plate light. The kit also makes use of the first bracket attached to the underneath of the bike. The rest of the tail unit goes. Happily it is also compatible with my Yamaha semi-rigid panniers. A couple of pics below. CS
  8. No I don't think you're missing anything. I'm guessing/hoping that it should be possible given that the Razor R is essentially the same shock with a remote reservoir. CS
  9. Today I dialled in the preload and rebound in the garage. I made 3 videos to illustrate the effects of different rebound settings: Too little rebound, adjuster all the way out Too much rebound, adjuster all the way in. Rebound just right, adjuster in the middle of its range. You can see in the first video that the forks bounce back very quickly, past the rest point before settling. In the second video the rate of return is very slow in the latter half of the forks travel. The third video shows a swift and steady rate return to rest, without bouncing. CS
  10. Today I set the preload on the rear shock and I have to say it was a royal pain in the neck to do. I removed the left hand rear footrest hanger but even then I could only get maybe a 1/4 turn with the provided collar spanner. Also, in order to be able to grip the next tooth I had to first use a padded screwdriver/punch to tap the preload collar round a bit more to get at the next tooth. Then it was a case of rinse and repeat to add the two full turns of preload I needed to get where I wanted to be. Further down the line I may or may not invest in a remote preload adjuster. CS
  11. I have to say I think that should be the last resort. That will definitely invalidate any warranty I would have thought. CS
  12. That is pretty crappy consumer protection. Here in the EU consumer law gives you a minimum of 2 years guarantee on goods and services: Guarantees, cancelling and returning your purchases EUROPA.EU How to claim the 2-year guarantee for EU purchases, get a repair, replacement or refund, how to cancel orders made outside shops (online, by phone, mail order). Also retailers cannot reduce that time by selling you an aftermarket warranty. Likewise they cannot claim that goods reduced in price or on sale have a shorter guarantee period. CS
  13. This is a walkthrough of the steps I took for changing the fork springs and oil on my 2015 Tracer. There are numerous how-to's around and many others have done this before me. I performed the job more or less exactly as Dave Moss does in this video: In my case I didn't need to separate the fork leg tubes as I wasn't changing the seals. I also ignored the part about the compression circuit as our bikes are not so equipped. Otherwise the above video is a great guide. Tools I did buy a couple of tools as follows. The cost of these was modest and certainly considerably less than a dealer would charge for actually performing the work. Fork spring compressor Fork Spring Compressor - Motorcycle | Part No. 6353 | Part of the Ducati range from Laser Tools WWW.LASERTOOLS.CO.UK Laser Tools 6353 Fork Spring Compressor - Motorcycle part of the Ducati range of tools. Damper rod bleeder Verktygskit För Catrigedämpare JMP (Nu -21%) - XLmoto.se WWW.XLMOTO.SE Verktygskit För Catrigedämpare JMP - Just nu 21% rabatt på XLmoto.se - Fraktfritt över 1000 kr - Snabb leverans - Gratis storleksbyte Damper rod holder Hållare För Innerben JMP (Nu -20%) - XLmoto.se WWW.XLMOTO.SE Hållare För Innerben JMP - Just nu 20% rabatt på XLmoto.se - Fraktfritt över 1000 kr - Snabb leverans - Gratis storleksbyte If you don't won't to purchase these tools there are also numerous YouTube videos showing how to make your own versions of the above. Walkthrough Bike on centre stand Raise the front of the bike. This needs to be done without the use of the forks as they are coming off the bike. I used a triple tree stand. Remove the front brake calipers, two bolts on each caliper and hang them out of the way with bungee cords/wire. Remove the front wheel. Loosen the pinch bolt on the bottom of the right fork leg and unscrew the axle using a 14 mm hex. Tap/pull the axle out and note the spacer on the left hand side. Hang the ABS sensor assembly out of the way. Remove the front mud guard. Undo four bolts on each side and open the brake line holders and pull the brake lines free. As you remove the mud guard retrieve the four silver collars that sit on the inside of the mud guard. Remove each fork leg one at a time; these instruction are for the right fork leg which contains rebound damping. Loosen the pinch bolt on the upper triple tree. At the top of the forks use a well fitting six sided socket to crack the fork cap open slightly. Loosen the pinch bolts on the lower triple tree and carefully remove the fork. You may meet some resistance but just rotate gently backwards and forwards and it should slide out Secure the fork leg upright in a vice (watch the beginning of the Dave Moss video for some advice on this). I also had a wooden stool underneath the bottom of the fork leg which the fork leg was standing on. Back out the preload and rebound adjusters so they are fully out. Write down what settings you had before you do this. Unscrew the fork cap and loosen the vice jaws slightly so the outer tube can drop down revealing the fork cap and plastic spring spacer. Once the outer tube is all the way down snug up the vice again. Use your spring compressor to compress the spring so that you can get at the lock nut under the fork cap. The two bolts on the spring compressor screw into the two holes on the side of the plastic spring spacer. I then used a ratchet strapped hooked onto each side of the spring compressor and looped around the bottom of the fork leg to compress the spring. Once the spring was compressed sufficiently I lifted the fork cap to expose the lock nut. At this point I inserted my damper rod holding tool between the lock nut and the spring spacer. Remove the fork cap by cracking loose the lock nut underneath as you hold the fork cap with an appropriate spanner. Unscrew the fork cap and set it aside. Remove the damper rod holding tool from under the lock nut and carefully loosen the ratchet strap relieving tension on the spring. Lift the plastic spring spacer off the spring and set it aside. Lift the spring out of the fork tube; have a rag handy as it will be covered in oil. If you're fitting new springs chuck the OEM spring in the bin! 😋 Lift out the damper rod from the damper tube and set it aside. Drain the oil. Undo the vice and, holding the bottom of the fork leg/brake caliper mount, carefully tip up the fork and pour out the old oil into a suitable container. I put the tube upside down back in the vice and let it drain for a while. It's also a good idea to pull the damper tube in and out a few times to help get all the oil out. Fill the fork with new oil. Put the fork back in the vice the right way up and with the outer tube all the way down. Make sure the fork is vertical. Carefully pour in your oil of choice. Don't worry too much about volume, it's the height of the oil or rather the air gap at the top that we're going to measure. Pour enough oil in so that it's fairly full. Bleed the fork. Put the damper rod back in the damper tube and attach your fork bleeding tool to the top of the damper tube. Now pull the damper tube up and down around 10 times or so to get all the air out. Check the height of the oil. I had an old syringe to which I attached a thin solid tube of the right length. I used this to suck oil out of the fork so that the correct height was achieved. The service manual calls for an air gap of 174-175 mm. Advice on this board suggested that a good gap is suspension travel plus 25 mm. For the Tracer that is 137 mm + 25 mm giving 162 mm. I settled on 160 mm. Reassemble. Put the damper bleeding tool back on so you don't "lose" the damper tube down inside the fork. Carefully slide your new spring into the fork tube being careful not to spill any oil. Slide the spring spacer over the top. Re-compress the spring and insert the damper rod holding tool between the spring spacer and the lock nut. Re-attach the fork cap. Make sure the rebound adjuster is wound all the way out i.e. anti-clockwise. Then wind in the adjuster the maximum number of clicks specified in the manual, in my case 11 clicks. Screw the fork cap back onto the adjuster rod until it stops. Tighten up the lock nut against the base of the cap and snug with a spanner. Remove the damper rod holding tool. Carefully slacken the ratchet straps and ensure that the plastic spacer engages properly with the fork cap. Once this is done the fork spring compressor can be removed. Loosen the jaws on the vice slightly and slide the outer tube up to the threads on the fork cap. Rotate the cap anti-clockwise first until you hear a click, then wind clockwise to screw the cap in. Hold the fork in the vice again and snug up the fork cap with an appropriate socket/spanner. Slide the fork leg carefully back into the triple trees. I used a bit of WD-40 to lubricate the upper part of the fork leg to help it slide into position. Set the fork leg at the correct height. Factory is with the top of the fork leg flush with the top of the upper triple tree. Snug up the upper pinch bolt. Repeat the above steps with the left fork leg. This is slightly easier as there is no damping rod to worry about. Refit the mudguard and attach the four bolts loosely. Re-clip all the brake lines in the correct position Refit the wheel taking care of the spacer on the left and the ABS sensor on the right. Do not fully tighten the axle. Refit the brake calipers and loosely tighten the brake caliper bolts. With the bike on the centre stand/paddock stand remove the front triple tree stand. Stand on the foot pegs and using your hands and body weight push vertically down on the centre of the steering stem a few times. This allows everything to line up. Tighten up the pinch bolts on the lower triple tree and then the front axle, pinch bolt, mudguard bolts and brake caliper bolts to the appropriate torque. Slacken off the pinch bolts on the upper triple tree and then tighten the fork caps to the appropriate torque, re-tighten the pinch bolts. Take the bike off it's stands and set rider sag and initial rebound. Job done! CS
  14. Not so much a "what have I done today" as a "what have I done this winter". I bought my Tracer new in 2015 and for whatever reason left it more or less bog standard (Evotech radiator guard and Hepco & Becker crash bars) for the first three years. Last year I put on KTM hand guards, Oxford heated grips, Kev's O2 mod and a Scorpion silencer. I also finally got around to adjusting the standard suspension for me. This year, the last two months, I have relatively speaking excelled myself. Givi M7 luggage rack and fitting kit Givi V40N top box Givi BF23 tanklock ring Givi MT505 tank bag FACO windscreen model no. 28435 Cosmo windscreen GPS bracket Ultimateaddons iPhone 6 plus case with quick release mount Double USB charger (mounted in the right hand socket space) Pirelli Angel GT tyres front and rear No-name black right angle tyre valves K-tech fork springs (9.0 Nm) Redline Extralight suspension fluid (8.3 CSt@40) K-tech Razor R Light rear shock No-name black 6 mm paddock stand bobbins I think that's it. The other thing I have done as a result of the above is equip myself with tyre changing equipment and fork servicing equipment. These tool purchases were made for less than the cost of a dealer doing the actual work so I consider them to be "free". Plus I can now perform these tasks at no cost in the future. CS
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