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captainscarlet

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captainscarlet last won the day on November 27 2019

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About captainscarlet

  • Birthday 01/21/1972

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  1. Interesting. Are the heat demons designed to work in parallel? I have Oxford grips which are designed to work in parallel and they barely warm up connecting to the factory connectors as the factory grips are designed to work in series. CS
  2. I posed the same question to K-tech and received the following response, for those who are interested: Morning The Pin holes are 4mm. You can use an off the shelf pin punch to do this. https://www.tengtools.com/r/gb/en/Striking-Tools/4mm-Parallel-Pin-Punch-PP04 Best Regards
  3. Ok thanks for that. I've measured the pin holes on the K-tech collar and they are exactly 4mm in diameter and 8mm deep. This means, unfortunately, that the Nitron tool is too large. Looks like it might have to be the punch that BBB linked to. CS
  4. Yes I am aware of the set screw. I think I need to find a suitable pin wrench. CS
  5. Ahh that Nitron tool looks just the ticket. Do you think you might be able to stick a micrometer on the end of that pin and measure the diameter? CS
  6. Yeah, I've given that a bit of a try but am loath to do too much as it mars the collar. CS
  7. Evening all! Quick question to those among you who enjoy twiddling your suspension. I have a K-tech Razor R Lite rear shock fitted, the one without the remote preload adjuster. K-tech nicely included a c-spanner, however as access to the collar is appalling once fitted to the bike I can only use the spanner for part of a turn. Once that part turn is made I can't get the spanner into position to get another part turn. The adjustment collar has a combination of troughs and round pin holes for inserting tools into. Does anybody in a similar predicament have any recommendations for an alternative tool? I'm sort of regretting being a cheapskate and wishing I'd coughed up for the remote preload version.... CS
  8. Three in fact and all different incarnations of the fabulous 955i engine. First up was a beautiful Daytona 955i: Whilst fabulous and great to ride when pressing on I found the Daytona simply too uncomfortable for daily riding. I sold it on and bought my first brand new bike. A Triumph Sprint RS. Fantastic combination of practicality and fun. Looks great in burnt orange too. The RS was sold to make way for an 1150GS and a couple of other bikes in between my next Trumpet. Bought after a short layoff from biking a really nice Sprint ST in classic British Racing Green. I kept the ST for a year and sold it to buy my second brand new bike, my fantastic Tracer. All three Triumphs were great bikes and performed flawlessly. They got me hooked on the triple engine. CS
  9. You're mixing your units there Betoney. The Brits are still on imperial miles like you colonials. It's us enlightened Europhiles that drive around in kilometres. CS
  10. Thanks for all the input chaps; as ever this forum does not disappoint. I think at this stage I'm gonna go for EBC HH pads and possibly new original size but not necessarily OE manufactured discs. At some point in the future when it's time to replace the OE lines I will upgrade to steel versions. CS
  11. I'm pretty sure most bike manufacturers have the same recommendations. It's not unique to Yamaha. According to my handbook spark plugs are every 20000 km or 12000 miles in old money. CS
  12. Ok thanks. Just to clarify, what are you cutting and where on the diagram below? CS
  13. Can you say something about installing the lines? Did you do it yourself and is it the pig of a job everyone says? CS
  14. Winter is showing no sign of releasing its grip just yet and that has triggered thoughts of bike mods in me. I had convinced myself that nothing needed doing to the Tracer this winter but I've suddenly found myself thinking about brakes. I have read numerous posts and the most effective mod seems to be simply replacing the brake pads, with the hot favourite being EBC's HH pads, specifically FA252HH. Is this still the case or are there other brands I should be looking at? Another thought that popped up was changing the brake lines to stainless steel. I am actually due a brake fluid change and thought "why not do the lines while the fluid is out". However I'm somewhat confused about swapping out the lines. In my ignorance I thought it would simply be a case of changing 3 lines: one from front master cylinder to left front brake caliper, one from front left caliper to front right caliper and one from rear master cylinder to rear caliper. However some googling suggests that I also need to change the lines from the master cylinders to the ABS pump? I'm somewhat confused about this because the lines to and from the ABS pump are already a solid tube aren't they? In that case why do they need replacing? Regardless, the question also arises how much of a difference steel lines really make in the grand scheme of things? My existing rubber lines are in very good condition and I'm certainly not going to follow the ridiculous advice in the handbook that says these must be changed every 4 years just because. Another area of consideration is of course discs. I did notice in the latter weeks of my riding before winter hibernation that I had a slight pulsing from my brakes. I cleaned the discs but it's still there. It's not bad but now that I know it's there I do notice it. From what I've read on this and other forums it's not that uncommon. Obviously I could change the discs, which will also entail new pads, but what is the considered wisdom on replacement discs? I'm not sure I want to faff around with bigger discs unless the swap is relatively straightforward. Any and all input appreciated. CS
  15. Ok thanks for letting me know.
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