ilanr1

Even with 1 cable there is enough tension...

Yes , it was the thermostat !!!  ,  it stayed closed.

Thanks , all is good now !!! , going for a test ride ...

Hi , i did fill the reservoir bottle to the max level - as it was bellow the minimum level and i added water to the radiator untill the max.

No air pockets as i can recognize ... I did some slow ride in the city.

When it reach 106C as usual in low city speed i pull over and noticed that a water from the  reservoir bottle are going out through the black excess tube .

Yes i understand that 106C are above the boiling point of the water and in the reservoir buttle there is no room for the extra water so , in the end i'm still missing water.

* i have replaced the radiator cup but it looks like nothing has changed...

* No water in the oil.

The oil looks ok to me in color .

It seems that the ventilator is working hard to reduce the heat , but the heat rise up very quickly after a cooling cycle from the vent.

Again we are on winter time now..  i don't want to think what will be in the summer...

Any other ideas ?.

Thanks

What i found is that the water tank is a lot below the low level and little water is missing in  the radiator.

What was strange to me is that during a cruising speed on the HWY i have noticed that the temp is like 105-106 celciuse and that is very hot !!!.

I usually have a reading in situation like that with a temp like 75 degrees steady reading.

Hi , it looks like the bike is overheating...

I will follow the tread that you added and update.

Thanks

If my engine temperature is higher what should i check ?.

As i mentioned , the water level are right now in the radiator and in the water tank on the side of the bike.

No missing of water.

So should it be a termostat ? Or a blocked radiator ?.

Thanks

Hi , i have noticed that my motor is running a little warm , in the city 85-95 degrees celcius and we are in the winter now...

I checked the water level on the radiator and a little water was missing there and also on the water tank.

Please share your engine temp in the city and in the highway during summer and winter.

What else do i need to check in order to feel good with that issue ?.

Thanks

We are dealing here with throttle bodies that have throttle position sentor , accelerator sensor etc.

I saw that there are 2 throttle cables that exists on various models.

On my tracer 900 GT 2019 model year , the first is to pull in order to accelerate and the second is to break the cruise control operation - there is a small micro switch that is doing this operation when you push the throttle.

So only one cable is enough in a non cruise control models.

Second think about a less friction on the throtle movement ...

Any thoughts please.

Thanks

Update :

I took the faulty throttle bodies that i inserted a finger inside them while cleaning to my friend's bike - Tracer 900 2015.

I connected the throttle bodies to my friend's bike and  follow the diagnostic options , checked that the throttle position switch is under the range , also the accelerator switch it's values are in the range.

After that i put it again in my bike Tracer 900 GT and problem solved !!!.

It looks that when you insert a finger in the throttle bodies you change the setting of the step motor and you will get a high rpm motor , all you need is just reset it to it's values , i mean Yamaha tool or just Tracer 900 2015...

Ok , got it.

Thanks

You mean that you tried to do that on the 2015 year model too ? - i mean to reset the ISC.

Something i don't understand here , i changed all the throttle bodies as a set and the issue was solved , how do you explain that ?.

I didn't reset the ISC..

39 minutes ago, Karlos said:

Update I slowed the issue luckily I have access to the Yamaha software… 

so after trying 

new tps

new aps

adjusting as much as I could where I could everything was in spec but the ideal was 1700rpm and the bike self drove/revved upto 2500rpm when in gear. 
I sourced a set of throttle bodies bolted them on everything was in spec but still idle was up at 1700rpm.

still getting code 243 I went through everything.

So I went through every setting in the diag and decided to reset the isc with the diag!!! Lo and behold it fixed it by relearning the values… so if anyone else suffers this you’ll need to go to Yamaha and ask them to go to code “67 correction value erasure”.

if everything else is ok this will fix it. 
Hope this helps anyone that might have a similar issue. 

cheers 

karl

According to the manual :

To erase the ISC (idle speed control) learning data , set the start/engine stop switch from "start to stop" 3 times in 5 seconds , did you tried that too ?.

I have the 2019 model , do you have the 2015 model year that you can enter the diag mode ?.

Ok , update what is your find.

Hi , yes i solved it !.

I have to replace all the throttle bodies as a set from Ebay...

Cost me 100 euro.

I tried a lot of options BUT replacing it saved me.

Learned my lesson..

Hi , the project is done.

All is working as it should.

My concern was on the front headlight , but it is the same on all the years 2015-2020.

Thanks

The bike is Tracer 900 GT 2019 , i should update my picture...

Thanks .

Hi , i'm feeling that my front brake lever is a little spongy like there is air in the system.

I tried to bleed the system and it's much better , i saw in youtube that if i put overnight pressure on the front brake lever the air bubbles that trapped inside will go up in the morning when i release the pressure and that will improve the braking action.

So i have done that and in the morning i saw that the front lever is not holding presure and it went all inside , no leaks in the front brake tubes or connections.

Do i need a rebuild kit to the front master cylinder ? or what ?.

Thanks

If it's from GIVI it's been tested . So don't worry.

Is it good to do some service while it's up ? . I mean secure...

Price spend ?.

On 2/28/2023 at 2:20 AM, Heavy said:

I don't have a heated seat but I do have a pdf of the installation instructions.  Appears that there are 2 connectors ... 4 wires total.

I don't see a way to attach the pdf.  Maybe PM your email address and I'll send it to you?

I already have this pdf with the instructions.

There are 4 wires at the plug. 

It should be lighted orange at start = off , first push low heat = green , second push high heat = red.

Next push orange again = off.

The colors of the wires are white , green , brown , red.

If i push the switch what is the connection on the wires ?.

Thanks

Hi , i found a heated seat that comes without the operating switch for my tracer GT 2019.

Yamaha doesn't sell the switch , only the all package , a switch with a seat complete.

Can anyone here share the switch picture / internals and how many wires does it have ?.

Thanks

Hi ,  I have managed to buy a heated seat without the switch to operate it ...

There are 4 wires at the plug. 

It should be lighted orange at start = off , first push low heat = green , second push high heat = red.

Next push orange again = off.

The colors of the wires are white , green , brown , red.

If i push the switch what is the connection on the wires ?.

Thanks

Hi , in this model when a check engine light turns on you can't reach the menu.

You need a bar code scanner to delete this light.

Search for a thread like this in the forum.

Thanks