xlxr

I was surprised the two times ABS mode kicked in, it was on dry pavement at slower speeds and I really did not consider the tire was on the edge of loosing traction. Based on my very limited experience with FJ 09 ABS, it kicked in too soon and actually increased braking distance. More testing will continue. I like to test ABS on wet paved roads for consistency sake. Problem is, it doesn't rain much where I live. Question, why not just remove the rear wheel sensor and re-position it so it cannot pick up the signal from the rotor? Is there a connector so the sensor lead can be disconnected from the wiring harness? Next question, how do you clear problem codes from ECU, just in case an error code is generated? So far, only one guy has said pulling the fuses did not kick off error codes.

My first experience with anti-lock brakes was very similar, except I was in a pick up truck and the dirt road I was on ended on a highway with lots of traffic. I agree, in unexpected slippery conditions such as washboard roads, ABS can be dangerous. That's why dirt bikers do not like them.

Is it possible to disable rear ABS but leave the front intact. I am an old dirt biker and find it very easy to modulate the rear as needed and have no fear losing control of the bike without rear ABS. However, front is a different story. If the front locks up, it is much harder to not meet MR Pavement. Been there, done that. The way I use ABS in cars, is to brake hard, then if anti-lock sets off, release pressure on the brake pedal just a bit to get the ABS mode to shut off and continue to modulate the brake pedal pressure as needed, trying to keep as much pressure on the brake system as possible while trying to avoid initiating ABS from kicking in. I am still in break-in mode for my bike, but the anti-lock brakes have kicked in twice. Problem I had was I could not tell which wheel was in ant-lock mode and could not tell which brake lever to let off a bit. I read the previous post about two fuses, does that mean one fuse front, a different fuse rear? Implying that I could switch off rear but keep front ABS on.

http://www.burnsstainless.com/sm-scrubble.aspx This is the best packing material I have found, not cheap, but lasts a lot longer. It uses a type of stainless steel that is meant to withstand high temps in exhaust. The exhaust tone is not as deep as all fiberglass packing. It needs perforated pipe with smaller sized holes to keep individual strands from blowing through the holes. Fiberglass will eventually fall apart and get louder. Some types of kitchen stainless steel scrubbies will burn up and break apart into small pieces that clump together and partially clog holes in the perforated tube. http://steelwooldirect.com/muffler-packing/ Here is another link to good packing material. My concern (meant to be constructive criticism for others to improve design) with the mod as done by Rodan on page 11, is that eventually the fiberglass packing closer to the pipe will burn out first and need repacking in (guessing) 25K miles. This design should perform very close to a typical glass pack / straight through muffler, fairly loud with minimal back pressure that typically shifts the power band higher in the rpm range, and may loose low end torque. It may also require ECU remap. I will have to go back and see if he posted a ride report, I don't remember reading it. I do not have any experience with packing so deep from the perforated pipe to the far side wall of the muffler. I am only guessing again, but it may be cheaper and lighter to weld in a baffle closer to the perforated pipe so that you do not have to fill the entire muffler volume with packing. I also am not sure how that would change the sound or performance. My comments are based on experience with other bikes, other mufflers. I have no intention of cutting open my FJ exhaust (for now any way).