xlxr

I have no idea how it works on an FJ 09, but all smog engines ventilate crankcase vapors through the air intake system. It may be normal, but I have not read about any other reports like yours. Bad piston rings will pressurize the crank case and force more oil through the crankcase ventilation system. But, then I would expect a lot more oil in the air filter box. Do not try heavier viscosity oil. that may cause further damage to other parts of the engine. If your engine is already worn to the point that heavier oil will help, the engine is already getting close to needing a rebuild. There may be a simple check valve in a line from crank case to air box that needs replacing. Cheaper dino oils that tend to burn off and vaporize will leave a build up of tarnish/varnish/sludge in the PCV (positive crankcase valve, as it is called in cars), and cause it to clog up and get stuck in the open position. The better synthetic oils tend to boil off less than the cheaper dino oils and leave less sludge behind that can clog up PCV valve, or whatever Yamaha calls it. Water cooled engines tend to be able to cool themselves quite well in stop and go traffic. I never see water temps over 204 to 2008 degrees on my bike, which I would consider normal. So, unless your temps are getting up to 230 to 250 degrees, temperature is not part of the problem. Over filling oil may be part of the problem.

If you are a big guy like me, start with heavier spring. Then I went with Ohlins, with compression fork revalved by Norwest Suspension.

I weigh 270 lbs in gear and have 1.0 spring with Ohlins cartridge inserts.

I have 3,000 miles on my 2015 FJ 09, 2WDW ECU reflash is the only engine mod. Engine runs so good at all rpms, including low rpm, that I have not attempted to synch the throttle plates. I have installed G2 throttle tamer which improves roll on from idle. So add my name to the list that this engine can be silky smooth.

With 2WDW ECU reflash and G2 throttle tamer, I do not feel the need for slipper clutch with aggressive street riding. So I am wondering why you want it and if simple changes in set up may help. There are leverage gizmos that can be added to the clutch cable, but I do not know what fits FJ O9. Since this kind of gizmo reduces force by increasing distance, you do have to make sure there is enough travel available to move the clutch pack the full distance needed. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4223/i/moose-racing-easy-pull-clutch-system?year=2009&make=Kawasaki&model=KX250F&colorid=262&SITEID=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+Product+Level+Ads+-+Google+Shopping+Campaign&P_ID=3052909189&adpos=1o1&creative=93111299573&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CMGn8sCy-s0CFYIBaQod1AQAJA

Exactly what is the myth you are referring to? I use magnetic drain plugs because they make it easier to see metal than cutting the filter open. And magnets do get out metal particles smaller than what the filter can catch.

I built an self supporting A frame out of 2X4's and use a motorcycle strap around the handle bars to hold the front end up when removing front wheel/suspension. Use center stand for rear. When I'm done, I unscrew the A frame and stack the parts in a corner of the garage until next time it is needed.

The loose nut holding the handle bars is the best speed limiter, unless it is not working. I have seen 100 mph, for brief moment while on a straight, flat highway, with properly set up aftermarket suspension. That's my limit.

I did not know European bikes were not speed limited. I am in USA, and the internet is full of law suits related to wobbles from several different manufacturers. I assume the speed limitation in USA is to limit financial liability. Regardless, there are several reports of FJ 09 wobbles on this forum, but they all seem to get resolved by the rider and by a variety of means. Preload / rider sag and rebound adjustmemts can have a direct effect on chassis pitch and stability of a motorcycle. The problem is that high speed wobbles can also be caused by any combination of several different things, and any two bikes may or may not have the exact same causes of wobbles. Preload / rider sag front and rear, and level the forks are set in the triple clamp are primary method to set chassis pitch in a static mode, sitting on the bike in the garage. Rebound (or compression) damping have no effect when sitting on the bike in the garage. Hydraulic damping does become a factor when the suspension starts moving up and down while riding at speed. Too much rebound damping can cause "packing down", keeping the suspension compressed too much because the forks or shocks will not extend after a bump. Too much fork rebound damping can hold the forks down, compressed, which causes too much forward chassis pitch and instability. Too much shock rebound damping can hold down the shock, compressed, causing the front end to get too light and contribute to wobble. Generally, if you stay within the manual's recommendations for these settings, and the bike does not have other mechanical problems such as too loose steering head bearings, or any of a long list of other problems, you should be OK. But not always. And the faster you expect to go, the greater the effect of small changes, problems, or mis-adjustmets can be.

I have 2,000 miles on my 2015 FJ 09. No wobble problems, but I ride solo, no bags, with upgraded suspension and almost never ride over 90 mph. I read through this thread a few months ago, but wanted to get more miles on my bike before commenting. I think most of the wobble problems are related to improper set up, excessive weight too far back, and excessive speed. The faster you go, the more the drive from the rear tire tends to lift the front, the forks fully extend and the front tire gets too light and starts to wobble. The best way to counter act this is with forward chassis pitch, lower the front, raise the rear. However, I have no idea how much is too much which can also cause wobbles. This is a light bike, with higher CG than sport bikes, and shorter wheel base compared to full touring bikes, and aerodynamics simply not meant for triple digit (mph) speeds. These are the reasons Yamaha limited top speed. Any motorcycle can develop a wobble problem if improperly set up or operated outside recommended parameters. Lots of small things can contribute to a wobble, you have to check each one until you find and fix the problem.

There was another thread asking how much play in the linkage is normal. Due to the loose fit of the bolts in various mounting holes, there is a good bit of play. Over-tightened nuts can cause too much binding friction, stiction. I loosened mine, and used lock-tight on the nuts for safety, and could feel a bit softer ride from the shock. I think the bolts self center in the bearing race they go through. Maybe just push the bolt that has the rubbing dog bone over a bit to get equal clearance on both sides.

I agree with this statement 100%. This is my first bike with ABS, and I am trying how to use it most effectively, which means being able to modulate lever pressure of front brake lever.

I'll try this tomorrow. What force did you apply to the brake lever each time, was it in Nm ft-lb? How many runs did you have to do to reach a 95% confidence level when you calculated the variance between ABS and non-ABS? Presumably you used the Chi-Squared test? I'm a little rusty on some of the comparative stats but appreciate the need erradicate any theories or assumptions.Start easy and don't exceed your riding skills. I have no idea what Chi-Squared test means. I don't think you need a MN ft-lb gauge, just use rocks, cracks, shadows for measuring stopping distance. That way there is nothing to calculate. But be prepared for all the scientific criticism from all the scientists around here. But my assumption is this whole discussion has turned into comical side show from a bunch of theorists who read the owners manual to figure out how to mash down on a brake pedal. (pun intended) I doubt I will have any more to contribute to this conversation until I get my bike back together and get some of my own test riding done.

I really don't get the issue here... Plain and simple, if you activate abs, you would have started to lose traction without it which would increase your stopping distance. Abs tries to keep you from losing traction to have a more controlled stop. If you don't want abs to engage then don't lose traction and use proper brake control. Abs is for when you **** up. Now if you are trying to slide, then I can see why you wouldn't want abs.The issue for me is I cannot feel the difference between front and rear ABS kicking in, so I don't know which brake lever to modulate. I haven't had time for any additional riding/testing recently and may not for a few more weeks, but reading these opinions is only getting me more confused.

that would be anecdotal evidence, rather than scientific as you are not controlling the variables mentioned in the previous postSame guy, same bike, same road, that will control enough variables for me. We're talking braking distance, not trying to get a PhD and publish the results. ...And, I am making this up as I go along, so I reserve the right to change the rules any time I want.

If enough people try it, rear brake only with and without ABS activation, 40 mph, straight line, dry pavement, and all get the same results, it will be scientifically valid. If enough people try it, and results are not consistent, then we will have to refine the parameters. The single biggest factor we cannot control is rider skill, all the other factors are too minor to bother with. I watched some ABS videos, it would be nice to have a bike with out-riggers for safer testing. But in those videos, on wet roads, the guys without ABS locked up brakes and never let go. That is a completely poor riding technique. It would have been a more realistic comparison if the guys without ABS tried to maintain control. I rarely have to ride in the rain, maybe once every 2 or 3 years, so I do not consider those tests valid for my riding condition. I live in a city, even in the mountains, there are always other cars. I cannot remember how many times I have had to hit the brakes hard to avoid accident with some car that pulled out in front of me. Reducing braking distance on dry pavement is far more important to me than wet weather riding conditions.

The sciency part would be if you repeat my simple test and report back your results.

In my simple test, ABS on rear only increased stopping distance by 5 to 10 feet from 40 mph on dry paved road in a straight line. Pretty much proves under those conditions, ABS on rear takes longer to stop. I will also submit, if you cannot control rear wheel skid without ABS, your riding skills are not adequate and you need ABS. No more theory and assumptions. I want to hear from guys who have actually tried my test, to see if they get the same results.

OOOPPPSS, I suddenly realized a basic flaw in my own reasoning. In hard straight line braking on dry pavement with the front brake, the bike pitches forward so much that there is almost no weight on the rear wheel. Therefor, the extended braking distance caused by rear ABS probably gets close to insignificant because the rear tire can't do much braking anyway. So, like the previous posters said, time for more practice.

I read up on ABS in Yamaha service manual. There does not appear to be any way to disconnect rear ABS only from electrical circuit. Apparently, the ECU does store error codes caused by disconnecting the rear wheel sensor and some special gizmo from Yamaha is needed to clear error codes.

JEEESSSS, I just want to find out how to disconnect rear ABS. I do not like it, and I do not want it. I never ride in the rain or dirt, so I am not concerned about those conditions. Using back brake only, on dry paved road, in a straight line, I can stop shorter without ABS. I'm waiting to hear from some one who has done the same test.

Your reaction time analogy is so flawed in logic it is completely meaningless. Rider reaction time is exactly the same with or without ABS. In both cases, nothing happens until you get your foot on the brake. With ABS, the brakes are OFF 25% of the time (I have no idea what the actual number is.) Even if I have to let off the brake pedal 2 or 3 times in a single stop to let the bike straighten out without rear ABS, the time the brakes are on is still way longer than if the ABS is cycling on and off 15 or 20 times. So it really doesn't matter what the road surface is like, ABS extends braking distance. On a motorcycle, the front provides 80% of the braking power. Since I cannot easily tell if front or rear ABS is kicking off, I don't know how much to modulate the front brake, adding even longer braking distance.

If you want to keep ABS, that is your choice. I see it as a compromise at best, and definitely not the optimum braking system in all situations. ABS lengthens braking distance, with the assumption it provides better control. Did you read the multiple reports from myself and other riders about ABS actually ineffective and dangerous on slippery wash board roads? I don't consider the ABS system on FJ 09 to be very effective at minimizing breaking distance or very advanced in design to work well in all conditions. If ABS is so great, why do dirt bikers hate it?????? I am an old dirt biker and it is strange how 35 years of riding/braking skills are now instinct programs burned into my brain. Rear ABS screws up those instinctual reactions. Once I get the rear ABS turned off, then I will probably keep front ABS.

Currently, I am thinking that you cannot disable signal from rear wheel sensor to ECU because that also disconnects speedo and TCS. Assuming front and rear ABS are completely independent, maybe disconnecting the signal from ECU to rear ABS solenoid will work????

With 1,300 miles on my bike, I figured brakes were worn in enough to test rear ABS. On dry pavement at 40 mph I hit the rear brake by itself and measured the stopping distance by referencing cracks in the road and curb. If I just smashed the brake pedal as hard as possible and kept it in ABS mode all the way to full stop, the braking distance was 5 to 10 feet longer than if I tried to hold just enough pressure to NOT initiate ABS mode. The less I let the ABS cycle, the shorter the braking distance. If the ABS cycled only once or twice, the braking distance was still shorter than if I let the ABS cycle continuously. I encourage others to do the same test and post their results. Then I unbolted the rear wheel sensor and just zip tied it out of the way. This killed the speed/mph reading on the dash gauge and lighted up the TCS and check engine light, but everything else seemed to work. This completely disabled the rear ABS, and made it much easier to lock up rear tire. I cannot remember for sure, but I think the front ABS still worked, I only tested the front once. Once I bolted the rear wheel sensor back in place, the error lights when out, speedo worked, rear ABS worked, but I have no idea if error codes remained in ECU. I have a service manual and could not find separate fuses for front or rear ABS, but I will need to look in more detail when I have time. It looks like pulling fuses disconnects the entire ABS system. The video at the start of this thread shows how to pull one fuse, so I am not sure why later posts refer to 2 fuses. I still want to disconnect rear ABS, but leave front intact. My main reason is that it is easy to tell if the rear locks up, and I do not need or want rear ABS. With rear ABS disconnected, if ABS kicks in and starts to cycle, I know it is the front brake that needs modulating. More experimenting to continue when I have time.