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nsmiller

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Everything posted by nsmiller

  1. You should try 3D printing it. That would be cool, and probably work well. Would only cost a few $ in plastic. Sometimes local libraries in larger cities have 3D printers available for use.
  2. Caliper has both cm on top and inches on bottom. Dial is thousandths of an inch. Tooth Measurement (6 Teeth): NOTE: The teeth have a slightly larger inner diameter than the rest of the socket does (which is what was measured). Add a mm or two to get the ID for the teeth. Outer Diameter: Inner Diameter:
  3. I'll get you the measurements on the tool, but give me a day or two... I need to figure out what I did with my calipers.
  4. In addition, the bearings can become loosened over time due to riding on bumpy roads and/or popping wheelies. Really anything that places them under large amounts of stress. Keeping the torque on the bearings correct by checking it every 4000 miles ensures that your bearings will last a long time before needing to be replaced, which is a more difficult complicated job.
  5. While filming this whole process took me probably 1.5 hours. If you weren't filming you could do the whole job in about 45 min or less. Not necessarily a winter time job. Best of luck!
  6. The 4,000 mile service continues with how to torque the steering head bearings. You need a couple special tools for this job. 1. 27 mm Socket $10 2. Steering Nut Wrench (Can either get stamped tool or socket) $40 3. Torque Wrench $100 If you had to buy all the tools you would still save money (or at least break even) on paying the dealer to do this service. A very easy and straight forward procedure if you have the tools. [video src=https://youtu.be/HuFyEVn8Bx8]
  7. I made a DIY video of how I performed the break-in throttle body sync at 750 miles for your viewing pleasure. Hope it helps you.
  8. I run a Bosch 3323 on my FJR. I haven't yet tried it on my wife's FJ-09. Bosch and many other filter manufacturers recently changed the style of their filter mating surface from concave to convex which is what causes it to bottom out. Since many FJR riders love to use these and other aftermarket filters there is a guy on the FJR forum who modifies the oil filter union bolt (same part on FJ09) by removing about 20 thousandths of thickness using his lathe. Once that modification is made you can run a much greater variety of filters including the Bosch 3323. As far as tightening the filter, oil filters should only ever be hand tight. About 3/4 of a turn once the o-ring first makes contact is a good rule of thumb. For removing I just use a channel locks if my hand isn't good enough.
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