FJ29ER

Could be. I would think it would be a pop/crack kinda noise though. Not a solid clunk. But sound could be changing leaving the exhaust tip.

Thank you. I remember reading that awhile back, completely forgot. I searched every word I could think of and could not find that "fix the stupid..." post. And only made it to page 3 searching with windscreen.

Any ideas on how to keep the stupid windshield adjusters from loosening? I put a taller screen on and the left side adjuster no matter how tight I get it. It vibrates completely loose within 5 miles or so. Was thinking of a little ziptie around the threads to give it some friction but still be able to loosen it if need be...

21K. Valves have been adjusted. 2500 miles ago Manual tensioner installed and adjusted correctly. 2500 miles on current oil change. 10w40 yamalube When cold starting my FJ there is 1 knock/clunk after about 20 seconds of running. I only heard it recently when I changed my routine in the morning by staying with the bike as it warms up. Usually I would start it and go inside for a few then come out and go. So I have no idea when it started. The first time I filmed it from the left side of the bike because I was thinking it was the starter getting stuck or something then disengaging. I did not hear it in the video but could in real life,and it sounded louder from the right side. So when I filmed from right side I heard it in both. My eyes darted directly to the exhaust when it happened so I am thinking it is coming from the rear transmission area. Any ideas? Goinng to try to film every cold start to see if I can get a better origin of clunk. In the video it is about 3.5-4 seconds in. It is faint.

Thank ya baby Jesus!!!!

Make sure when you spin the wheel the rotor stays equal through the gap circled in red

Bracket kind of looks like it's too low in the front. Like it's not mating with the swing arm correctly but could just be perspective. And the pin that holds the brake pads looks like it's grooved. Make sure that is prefectly smooth. But otherwise nothing really like askew

Please Be our savior!!! Lol

Put your bike on the center stand. Put a brick on the rear brake pedal. Lock it on full Throttle. Start it in let's say 4th gear and let it go. See how hot it gets ya know. For science.

I would be amazed how a big chunk of cast aluminum that probably barely sees over 150 degrees would warp... As Long as it's sitting correctly against the swing arm.. Which it should because it's two big flat faces unless something is in between them then idk. It looks to obviously have been going on for a little while. Bike get dropped or hit? I don't really see any big marks. But it would be bending inward not outward. Does the caliper slide freely with the pads out like I've asked multiple times? With pads out and you push the pedal ever so slightly does the piston move? Can you push piston back in with a pair of pliers? Or is it solid? But as I said if everything looks to be fine which in the pics it looks to be correct but the caliper is still crooked it seems then send it to someone who can put there hands on it. I think you've exhausted the forums help honestly.

Hopefully one of those pictures makes you have a eureka moment. But just make sure caliper slides nicely side to side with pads out. And the metal clip is correct. And when the pads are in they are seated correct against that clip. And if it's all mechanically good.then follow this bleed procedure(I know you've done it multiple times but obviously something is wrong somewhere so yea) this will be brake bleeding for dummies... 1- remove reservoir cap and fill reservoir to upper line. Lay cap or rag on top of reservoir to prevent anything from getting in. 2- put the box end of a 10mm wrench on the bleed plug on the caliper, pointing away from the bike. Then Put some kind of tubing etc on the bleed plug to get spent fluid away from bike. Preferably into a container. 3-without touching anything else, crack the bleeder valve open a little bit then back closed again. 4- with the bleeder valve closed apply firm steady pressure to rear brake pedal in a downward motion. 5-crack bleeder open, allow brake pedal to bottom out, DO NOT LET UP ON THE PEDAL and close bleeder valve. 6- repeat step 4-5 approx 4 times or until fluid reaches lower mark on reservoir. I've never had contamination or air cause a sticking caliper. Only a master cylinder on a race car that had failed that wasn't allowing the pressure to bleed off. But it would be one hell of a coincidence for this to happen all of a sudden. If none of what I have posted has solved the issue then idk wtf is going on. Send it to the professionals

#1-full picture again #2- top view of top slider #3clip again. Make sure that is still fully seated and correct.

#1-pad pin/lower slider bolt removed close up #2-same farther away #3caliper pulled up, pads just hanging #4-showing the sliver of the sleeve butted up against the caliper bracket, when tightened down

Overview of caliper bracket without caliper

#1- full picture of caliper #2- picture of spring clip that holds pads in a downward direction. #3- #4- receiver clip? Holder? Shelf? Of the "front" side of the pads.

Ok. But please remove the pads. Just pull the pin out and pull pads out only. And see if the whole caliper slides nicely in and out all he way stop to stop(which the lower pin with the sleeve is the "limiter"), because if it binds at all then it wont release. The hydraulic system doesn't provide enough pressure to push the caliper back to resting position if it is binding. We gotta do process of elimination. Not step 5, then to step 10, then to step 3. Eliminate 1 by 1. Been a mechanic for anything with wheels for about 20 ish years. But you always start with step 1 and so on.

IF YOU PULL THE PADS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE CALIPER, DOES THE CALIPER SLIDE FREELY IN AND OUT? PICTURES REQUESTED. PLEASE -BOTH SIDES OF AXLE ENDS. -TOP SLIDER PIN CLOSE UP -WIDE VIEW OF COMPLETE CALIPER FROM MULTIPLE ANGLES.

Thats the abs sensor you are seeing. I thought the same thing at first as well. axle is below that. can barely see it. But something just seems off about the back/lower slider sleeve install. Like its missing or not installed correctly. Were the pads ever removed and does the caliper slide side to side freely? The rubber boot ends should be sitting in the groove like the above posted picture with the red arrows.

Yea I saw that...but was the bolt not installed like he said...and i do notice the caliper sitting crooked in the last picture?. But not sure if its just the photo or not. Cant be sure until steps are followed.

Yea I think a possible mechanical issue with the installation needs to be worked out before going to hydraulic issue. But unless he pushed the piston completely out on the original push of the brake pedal with the caliper unmounted then idk how it magically got messed up.

Welcome to owning anything with moving parts. Whats the saying... if it has tits or an engine it will give you problems...

haha Ok. If you pull the brake pads out completely can you slide the caliper back and forth freely?

Morning! but That was directed at @hammer not you.😏

Not sure if my posts are being seen. But if you go back to look at what @texscottyd posted on page 2 you can clearly see the head of the bolt that holds the lower slide pin, you cant see yours at all.

You lubed #11 and #9 in the link above? It would have to be some crazy contamination to cause a stuck caliper. And the lower slider bolt looks to be missing..or too far in. It should be protruding from the caliper. Are you missing #9? That is what the lower mount of the caliper slides on. It is like a shiny sleeve.