StealthAu

I don't think it is a 10mm thread. I haven't had mine off yet, but the diameter of the stalks suggests it isn't going to be a 10mm thread. 

I didn't know Yamaha did the reverse thread mirror thing. But, if they do, it'll be the right one. 

That is a good price, I've paid double that for suspension parts alone for some bikes, then still had to fit it.

What are you getting? I'm guessing springs and valves in the front?

Does the new shock retain hydraulic preload adjustment?

21 minutes ago, betoney said:

 Did the article mention what rider weight these settings are based on?  He seems to be using a fair amount of spring preload on both ends.

it is right there in the text you quoted. 89kg.

I'm 100kg.

Fitted 1.0kg/mm front springs. Was bottoming out the forks with stock springs.

Have 6 full turns of preload from full out (stuff measuring heights, counting turns is an easier measure). This gives me 35mm rider sag front. I aimed for less than usual sag for a little more ground clearance. 

Still have stock fork fluid, with such, achieving correct rebound damping in the front is at 2 clicks out. 

Next time I change fork fluid, I'll go with a heavier weight. While I can achieve correct rebound with stock spec fluid, as it is right on the end of the adjustment range, maintaining the stock oil weight/valving would require more frequent fluid changes. changing fluid for a higher weight is cheaper and easier than a revalve. 

Compression damping is set at 5 clicks out. 

On the rear, i am yet to replace the spring. With stock spring, to match the front sag preload is set at 1 click out from max, yielding no static sag.

Rebound is at 5 clicks out.

Works alright as is, but I need to pull my finger out and respring the shock. 

I'm a little concerned when I do, that the stock valving won't allow adequate rebound damping. Here's hoping I am wrong! 

You could always add some additional turn signal indicators to the hand guards.  

You don't adjust the preload for static sag. You want to adjust it for rider sag (or rider and pillion/rider and luggage, whatever the bike is carrying). When the rider sag is set, you should have around 10mm of static sag. If you don't, you need a different spring.

If a spanner can fall in there, can it not be retrieved with a magnet? 

I'd go with anyone who uses Woolich. Woolich have just released their race tools for the GT which include quick shift tuning and up shift auto blip. 

I've always tied bikes down from the fork lowers and swingarm. No need to fully compress the suspension and when driving over rough roads, never need to readjust straps. 

9 hours ago, Larz said:

 

@StealthAuThanks man. Gosh, I wish it was my idea 🤩 but it's not 🤔 been done by many- I first got into it on my Harley- lots of kids with Dynas on a HD forum were doin' it to their bikes. 

 

I was refering to your colour scheme. 

I've also used plasti-dip over the years to visualise ideas before committing to them. 

Capainscarlet is on the money. Setup rider sag first. 

After adjusting preload, you need to adjust rebound. 

If you haven't played around with suspension before, start by winding the front rebound damping all the way out. Now hold the brake on, push down firmly on the handlebars and let it come back up under its own force. It'll come back up fast and bounce a few times before settling. 

Repeat with rebound damping dialed all the way in. It will come up slowly meeting the static position and stopping. 

Do the same again on the rear. If you know what bad looks and feels like, it will assist in finding what is good. 

Rebound damping is used to offset the force caused by the springs unloading. Too little rebound damping and the bike bounces, too much and it doesn't respond quick enough for the suspension to be able to do its job.

You want to have the least amount of rebound damping that when you push down on the forks, they come back up without bouncing into further cycles. Same applied to the rear. 

With preload and rebound set, it is a good idea to continue with learning what bad feels like. back the compression damping out to min and go for a ride. Take your screwdriver with you. wind in compression damping to max, ride more. With an idea of what too little and too much compression damping feels like, back it out 5 clicks and ride again. From there, you will know if it needs more or less. 

On 7/2/2019 at 6:57 PM, dmanteigas said:

https://www.carpimoto.com/EN/42720_Matris-Fork-Springs-Kit-for-Yamaha-Tracer-900-18-.htm

Just letting you know, your info was right, mine was wrong. 

I just swapped out the stock springs and yes, they are progressive. 

I like it, grab rails and all. I might steal your idea. 

3 hours ago, dmanteigas said:

Hi All,

 

I have a Tracer 900 GT with 26000kms and it's now time to do front fork maintenance. Should I stick with Yamaha standard fork oil or there are better alternatives?

If you are able to setup your compression and damping within the adjustable range, stick with the same fork oil. 

I've been through the wiring schematics in the workshop manual.

The contacts in the switch are normally closed. There is a white/green wire coming from the switch to the ecu. Cut this wire and it'll default to no traction control. This is where I'll wire in the time delay relay. Open circuit for the first 10 seconds, closed circuit after that. 

The ones on their site look like you'd barely notice them. Better than others I've seen on other bikes. 

Just had an idea. 10 second time delay relay. 

I just ordered one of these, should result in default traction off, but able to turn it back on if wanted without extra switches being required.

DC 12V Relay Module Adjustable Delay Time Switch 0-10 Second NE555 Timer Board N

---

<li> Features:<br...

I often forget to turn it off when firing the bike up. Then I'll be riding along, want to throw the front wheel up and it wont allow it.

Was hoping with a flash I could default it off, sounds like that isn't an option.

However, I have found that if you hold the traction toggle up while turning the bike on, traction control is off.

So, if you wanted to, you could short the switch and effectively traction control would default off.

If you want it to default off, but still want the option to turn traction control on, shorting function could be wired to a secondary switch. 

It's pretty lame. Yamaha really need to spend some money on traction control and abs. 

The GT has 2 level traction control and off. The lowest level is excessively intrusive. 

I've got a 7 year old ducati streetfighter. 8 levels of traction control, with the lower three barely noticeable and allow wheelies. 

Fair enough. With how effortless it is to get on the stand, I would have thought most people would have no issue. 

It is definitely a lot easier than any other bike I've owned before.  

Why don't you use the passenger grab rail for lifting the bike onto the stand?

I find it rather effortless doing so, but I am 2mtrs tall, so maybe a height/reach thing?

17 minutes ago, dmanteigas said:

https://www.carpimoto.com/EN/42720_Matris-Fork-Springs-Kit-for-Yamaha-Tracer-900-18-.htm

Interesting.

I went here and got the part number of the Tracer GT stock springs.

I  then checked what other models use the same springs, partzilla is good for this. Same part number for springs in all tracers/fj09's since 2015.

Racetech and other sources I could find indicated a constant rate spring. 

I said 0.75kg/mm before, that was actually the mt09. Tracers get 0.70kg/mm.

5 hours ago, dmanteigas said:

Are you sure? Can you send me the reference? Because according to info I have, it's progressive 7.5-10

What info have you got?

You might be gripping the bars too tightly?

1 hour ago, mike said:

OK, This may be my last post on this issue. 

"Sp0okz" appears to be a fairly new rider asking for advice setting up the "stock" suspension for someone around his weight. I answered with the settings that have worked for me after adjusting over the last 5,000 miles or so. I am not an expert rider but I ride fairly rough roads at a pace that the Chicken Strips on my tires are fairly narrow. I have a feeling that he is not going to run out and install $1,000 in improvements to his suspension at this stage of the game. He may very well find that he pushes the bike hard enough in the future that those improvements are needed. After a test at these settings , it would be pretty easy to return to the stock settings and start over if that is desired.

I have ridden the bike with these rebound adjustments and found them to work. Anyone who thinks I am delusional might want to set things up the way I have and test ride a bike with "stock" suspension and give it a try. I do understand that anyone much lighter than me will probably find things too harsh but I don't think they will find the bike unrideable.  

Once again I am not dragging a knee and don't ride with a lot of extra weight on the bike for trips or camping. I am sure there are many things I could do to make the bike handle better but it suits my purpose just fine the way it is. That may change in the future but only time will tell.

Mate, don't take it personally or feel like you need to defend yourself. 

I understand why you would feel a need to max out rebound damping.

Under braking, you don't have enough front spring. Compresses hard and fast. High rebound in the rear slows the weight transfer. 

You don't have enough spring in the rear, so you crank up the rebound damping in the front to limit squat under acceleration. 

The downside of taking this approach is when going over bumps, your wheels can't return from the compression cycle fast enough to maintain contact with the road. 

You can increase front compression to reduce fork dive which in turn, will allow you to reduce rebound in the rear. This will be an improvement to your current settings. 

For upgrades, all you really need are new springs front and rear and a heavier fork oil. For this, you'd only be looking at a couple hundred dollars.