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40 minutes ago, pmason718 said:

I use to own a 2015 FJ-09 but I sold it about 2yrs ago and picked up a 2019 Superduke GT. My brother will be purchasing a 2020 Tracer 900 GT and I’m wondering what is the major differences? I know the 2020 has a color TFT, quick shifter, etc but what else has changed? 
 

also is the 2019 and the 2020 the same bike? Or were there changes made to the 2020 that the 2019 doesn’t have? 
 

Did they fix that wobble at high speeds?

I experienced the wobble on the newer Tracer but was easily remedied by tuning the suspension and setting the correct sag to the rider's weight. Didn't have any problem after that, bike is stable even at 220+ kph (135+mph). 

Other changes aside from those mentioned above and the aesthetics is the narrower handle bar too. As for internal components, essentially the same as the FJ09.

On 3/10/2021 at 2:49 AM, roy826 said:

Finally got everything together to Mount my Rottweiler Arrow CRG mirrors onto the stock hand guards. I used nylon spacers to bring the Rottweiler mounts flush with inside of hand guard. 1” long stainless M6 bolts to take up the extra depth verses how they use short screws on the much thinner Ktm hand guards. Pretty happy with them. Already knew they were a high quality mirror with a set mounted to the barkbusters on my Tenere 700. No more unclear right mirror snd no more mirror movement. 
 

Looks really nice with my puig short racing wind screen I’ll use for summer. Not to shabby with the stock wind screen. 
 

Mind sharing how the spacer looks like? 

I encountered the same issue on mine (2019 Tracer 900 non-gt) at 10,000 kms (6,213 miles). Can I just replace the chain if my sprockets are still okay? or do you recommend to change all?

So I've done my research and have narrowed down my selection to Metzeler Roadtec 01s, Michelin Road 5s, and Pirelli Angel GT IIs. The Roadtec being an older tire to the other 2, how does it compare? What would you guys recommend? How about a Pirelli Scorpion Trail II?

I am currently just waiting to finish the stock Dunlops on my 2019 Tracer 900. Obviously not so impressed with its performance and I agree with most sentiments shared here in the forum.

To give context for the tire recommendation I'm looking for, I live in a tropical country (Philippines) where it's usually hot and humid and is raining at least half the year and where roads are not always great (from good asphalt paved roads to uneven, pothole-ridden, debris-filled, cracked, concrete).

I love the occasional mountain carving rides but mostly enjoy long distance riding (multi-day trips and whatnot). I barely use my bike to commute so that won't be a big factor for me and am mostly a weekend rider.

Anyone care to chime in which tire would be among the 4 models I've mentioned with perfomance in mind for both wet and dry conditions with a decent amount of longevity? 

On 9/17/2019 at 7:10 PM, dmanteigas said:

So far I have used D222 (9000km both front and rear), Road Attack 3 (11000km front, 6000km rear + 5000km rear but with 1500-2000km of use left when replaced), Angel GT II (10000km front and still running, 9000 kms rear to the cords) and I put an Angel GT old version now in the rear which has ~500km. 

 

RoadAttack 3 are great tyres, very agile and plenty of grip, but my personal preference are the Angel GT II. Plenty of feedback, tons of rear tyre grip, perfect trajetories and good aging and milleage as compared to the RA3. It will be my preferred tyre moving forward in the 900GT

how are the Angel GT IIs in the rain?

4 minutes ago, koth442 said:

Looks fine. How did it feel?

I just saw this on Facebook haha! Haven’t tried yet. I’m guessing the oil sump is sturdy enough 😅

is this also a safe way to lift the front?

6 hours ago, piotrek said:

In the process of changing tires, so had a look. All these check out, except OD. Mine measures 25mm, but it is powder coated. The OD is a little larger than the mated caliper side, but just right on the fork side. If you already have these or can source them easily... I think 24mm will work fine.

awesome! thanks so much! will keep you posted on the progress of this "minor upgrade"  

2 hours ago, BBB said:

IIRC they gave an 11mm spacing. The diameter is the same as the calliper mount. Mine have a step/recess at each end so they insert in without wobbling, but I’m sure that’s not essential.

got this! I think I got it. Would anyone be able to verify these dimensions? please forgive my sketch haha actual photo of spacers for reference which I got off the MT09 forum. 

Does anyone know the exact specs/dimensions of the spacers? Will just have them made in a machine shop.

Decided to go with the SW Motech as it has a cleaner look than the Givi mount. Quite happy with the quality. Will purchase the Givi adapter next and save up for a 30L Trekker top case. Hopefully it will be sturdy enough in the long run.

11 hours ago, texscottyd said:

There was a really detailed thread about this 320mm brake conversion topic, but it seems to have been removed.   It had part numbers for rotors, spacer specs, install tips, lots of personal experiences, etc...   

I’m thinking it was in the Forks By Matt forum area, and was removed since he’s no longer a supporting vendor.  @Cruizin - Is it possible to find that thread and move it into one of the active technical forums?  

Yeah, I saw that and was looking for it too. Sorry if I had to post this topic again 😅

Has anyone done this on the GT? If so, how's your experience?

I believe, you'd need four 11mm spacers for the calipers and longer bolts. Would anyone know the exact bolt specification needed? Planning to use sintered brake pads with bigger front rotors for better braking power. 

On 5/7/2020 at 9:09 AM, Kevin R said:

I put an Adventure Rack from SW Motech on my '19. It fit perfectly and holds the Givi trunk from my previous bike. Bought it several weeks ago (on sale!) and have logged several hundred miles with it thus far. I am very happy with it and can share a couple of observations about it if you plan to ride with a passenger:

1. There is not much extra space between the rear of the passenger seat and the rack (it keeps whatever payload you carry from hanging off the back of the bike - less wheelie potential!). There are two options for where the plate mounts to the tubing and I used the one that is furthest back since I do ride with my wife occasionally. She is slim and has enough room but others may find that the rack places a trunk a little too close for optimum comfort. If I had a nitpick, I would advise SW Motech to give a smidge more room back there, maybe another centimeter or two.
2. The tubing on the rack (which replaces the OEM grab rails) also does not leave much extra room for the passenger's hips if riding 2-up. Again, my wife is slim and fits okay for 2-3hr rides but for really long days on the bike the rack's grab rails put too much unwanted pressure on my wife's hips. Another 2-3 centimeters between the two rails would be better. We're actually looking to add a seat pad to elevate her a little to clear the grab rails (looking at an Airhawk).

  I think there are photos on the forum showing the rack, and you can kind of see how it's situated in my avatar photo. If you'd like to see more, just let know and I can post a couple.

 

Cheers!

Any issues riding at speed and weight capacity? The site says that the limit is 22 lbs and that you can’t ride past 130kph 😅 I’m deciding if I should get this or the Givi one. 

Anybody here know where I could order 11mm spacers for the caliper? Also, what are the new bolt specs if you go with 320mm rotor upgrade?

Has anyone tried this already? If so, is it worth the purchase? I'm only 5'6" and would like to reach the ground better during stop and go situations hehe Nope, I don't want to use lowering links so a slightly lower seat will do. 

Low Rider Seat - B5C-F4710-A0-00 - Yamaha Motor

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Low Rider Seat - For your Yamaha Model Name

Thank you all for your inputs, helped a lot! Much appreciated. 😁

So I was cleaning my bike the other day and needed to remove the excess water on the chain. I placed the bike on the center stand, folded the side stand, put the bike on 1st gear, and just let it run without opening the throttle in order for the excess water on the chain to get out. This is the first time I did it and I noticed that the chain shook up and down too much while running on its own. Is this normal? does my chain have too much slack? or is it out of alignment? Haven't checked the slack yet cause I recently just had it serviced and the mechanic supposedly adjusted it already.

You can view it here for reference: 

Feel free to check out the whole video too if you see anything out of the ordinary.

PS

Disregard the debris on the chain, that's just tissue paper that got stuck while I was inspecting the chain. White stuff is the ceramix wax from my Putoline chain lube. 2000+ kms on the ODO.

For those who got the street rally pegs, did you have to adjust the rear brake and gear shifter position? I saw some members mention that the foot pegs are slightly taller than the stock one. 

So I have the 2019 Tracer and was able to buy those cheap beaks from China. Unfortunately, the one I got is for the earlier models (knock off of the powerbronze one for '15-17 models) and is not a direct fit to the 2019 model. Has anyone here been able to retrofit this to the 2019 model? 

On 7/21/2019 at 8:19 AM, bugie said:

This is the inside of the exhaust. The 3 pipes slip over the pipes in the exhaust and the round dish in the middle of the exhaust prevents the exhaust gases from leaving. I am wondering if drilling holes in the dish will create the same effect, or perhaps cutting the remainder of the baffle from exactly behind the round dish would be more beneficial

Did you end up cutting the baffles after the dish or cut off the dish itself?

2 minutes ago, bugie said:

I have the newer model and was thinking of doing similar. I don't think cutting the exposed part of the baffle will do anything but i was thinking about shortening 1 or 2 of the baffles in the exhaust so that they no longer connect at the back of the exhaust (to improve airflow)

I dented one of the tips while trying to pull it out with a vice grip and mallet hahaha but that part is mainly for aesthetics to make the outlet look cleaner for me. Let me know how it goes if and when you cut the inner part. It's such a pain to pull it out and put it back in with that part. Photos also please! 

For those who have the Akrapovic Racing Line (Titanium) S-Y9R3-HAFT on their bikes, did any of you ever try to shorten the baffle? I find it too loud without and too quiet with the baffle. I was thinking of cutting these parts off. Have any of you done this? If so, any problems, suggestions? My obejctive to find that sweet spot between too loud and too quiet and eliminate the difficulty of putting the baffle in and out of the can.

On 11/2/2018 at 11:47 AM, rain said:

Except this one's about a hundred bucks cheaper... That was the point.
Maybe I missed earlier references to others that weren't ~165 bucks.
 
rain
 
 

any long term issues with the beak? Got one from China as well for about USD 25 haha! I wonder how this will hold up at high speeds..

42 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Yes, your photos are normal. You’re all good.

There’s a few things that could have caused people to have issues with the nuts seizing and cross threading: dirty threads from shoving the axle back through when changing the tire.  Not lining the axle up properly and beating the other end with a hammer which can damage the threads of the axle. Over torquing the nut, tightening or loosening with impact wrenches, and as the OP mentioned: bad luck and not paying attention. 

-Skip

 

Awesome, thanks for clarifying things. Hard not to get OC about these things at times hehe!