v1nn1e

Oh My Word!

So, in the UK, even on ebay, the Yamaha panniers are £390 EACH!

Then another £100 for the tiddly brackets that bolt to the pillion footrests, and then on top of all that you have to buy the lock!

It is a neat, minimalist system, and nice how it clips into the bracket at the top, but that is a colossal price! 😲😲

There was a ground frost today and the air temp gauge was down to 3 degreesC.

Had the grips on 3 bars, which is set to level 5 and my gloves didn't melt!

Reckon I will up that to 6 now and increase all the other levels a bit through to next March!

The funky pieces down each side of the pillion seat, above the coloured rear section, I assume are related in some way to the fixings for the OEM panniers?

Do they serve any other function?

Do any of the non-OEM panniers use them as part of their fitting?

Is some additional frame also required, in addition to these side rails?

On 11/1/2019 at 3:05 PM, clint said:

I've run the Roadtec 01, Road 5, and RS3. The RS3 lasted longest and wore most evenly.

Which one did you prefer in the rain...?

I'm sure I read through the manual but confess I completely missed that the three bars selectable from the handlebar controls can have their actual amount of heat set from the settings menu.

My two-bar/middle position was too hot at anything above 5 degrees C so I've lowered it to 3 from 4. The three-bar/top position was set to 7! I guess that's when you ride in -5 degrees C! I've reduced that to 5 which I reckon should be plenty if I'm out when it's freezing. 

I was lubing my chain at the weekend, OE ~19k km, and while there has been little wear, a couple of links have seized.

As the sprockets look pretty good I'm going to just change the chain.

Just mounted mine up this morning.

It's the Ultimate Addons handlebar clamp with three-prong attachment. Just long enough to go between the bar clamps and for the Universal Smartphone holder not to foul the top of them.

Even in portrait orientation, it doesn't obscure the instruments.

I dug out an old USB cigarette lighter charger that has one built-in cable but then discovered that cable was broken, so using as a SatNav the phone died on my 20 minutes in to the ride.

I'll try again this evening using the raw USB port and cable but this is not weatherproof. What are folks using for USB charging that uses the accessory socket and is weatherproof too...?

Another one for Loomies A32/A272 junction.

Saw an absolutely immaculate red Tracer, identical to my '16 and assumed it must be newer... it was a '15 plate! 😖

Ah, right.

For this run, the count had started and lower bar flashing at ~197 miles.

Ah, thanks.

First need to confirm the thread size and then give some thought to what 'shape' a mount could take - not that I have any ability other than simple bends in flat sheet strip! 

That was keeping to 70mph cruising. Plus I don't go mad accelerating from lights, you can still out-run most things anyway.

I find I can do just under 80 and still keep the ECO indicator on, and then real avge consumption drops to ~55mpg.

Of course, that all depends on road mix, loading and what not. My daily commute is largely dual-carriage with a little urban at one end.

I trawled through most of this thread but apologies if I missed the answer to my question, but just to confirm...

Is the accessory socket identical to a regular car cigarette lighter socket? Is it safe to use most standard car accessories?

I have an Ultimate Addons mount, along with the universal smartphone holder.

I've not tried it on the tracer yet so I'll have to see where it fits best.

I've posted elsewhere about the lugs in front of the pinch bolts on the top yoke. Anyone know if they can be used in some way...?

I've noticed two lugs that extend forward of the pinch bolts on the top yoke.

They look enticingly like potential mounts for a bracket for accessories such as phone charger/phone mount/GPS etc.

Anyone made any use of them?

Just filled up and the avge display was showing 66.6mpg

It took 16.17 litres and had done 215 miles - that equates to ~60mpg (Imp)

So about 10% optimistic. As I'm using the same mileage value there's something wrong with the fuel measurement. I'm assuming it's just in the display electronics/software, as the engine runs and feels fine.

I've got a scattering all over, particularly the header brackets and nuts and the big nut in the centre of the oil heat exchanger, plus some corrosion on most of the lower crankcase bolt heads.

When I have the time, after washing I go around with ACF50 and apply with an old toothbrush to all areas, also the clips around the radiator pipes

Has anyone tried the Metzeler Roadtec 01?

It's been getting very good reviews in the UK, comparable to the PR5 in the wet.

Thumbs up for the Harpic approach, works a treat both on the headers and the big collector box where the pipe exits.

I use the plastic scourers, and you can get the foam backed ones in packs very cheaply. Finish with Solvol Autosol for a better shine.

Yeah, you get burn-off when the engine is started as everything hots up - it was like a bonfire down there after my latest round! 😆

I do apply the ACF50 when the bike is cold and assume it's primarily working only until the next start-up. 

I don't put ACF50 on the actual pipes, just the clamp plates and nuts that secure them, which appear to be mild steel rather than stainless.

BTW, for bringing your old stainless pipes up to new and shiny, there's little to beat Harpic loo cleaner.

Paint on with a brush, leave for 30 minutes or so, then use a plastic kitchen scourer. Finish up with some Solvol Autosol.

Make sure none goes on the engine or anywhere else and rinse off thoroughly with a hose!

Yeah, the issue with attempting a replacement is exactly that - sheared stud!

I'll continue the ACF50 and also intersperse with WD40 and whatever penetrating fluid I can lay my hands on. Hopefully, as, when and if I need to remove them, they'll come off! 😖

I know mine wasn't garaged for the first year or two of its life but even so, the brackets/clamps and nuts that hold the exhaust headers into the cylinder head are mighty corroded.

I've been lathering them in ACF50 at every opportunity in the hope it may make a little difference.

I assume these are swaged in place when the header piping assembly is made up and so cannot be changed without a new set of header pipes...?

FWIW, mine is the same.

Not bothered about it too much but may look at painting it with Hammerite or some such.

The clear vinyl film that you can get for fairing protection may be an idea...

I took an F800ST BMW over the Khulo pass in Georgia (European country) and it has an equally exposed oil filter. It was mostly a gravel trail with one place where I was on grass with a few ruts. It's doo-able - I went very slowly!

The tyres I used were Continental TKC70, which is a notch less off-road than the TKC80. If you need the TKC80, then you are probably outside the bike's envelope!

tried A mode this morning (bike is all original).

For the most part I would say this is much more like a normal response, other than the abruptness of the off/on change over.

However, given what poor shape UK roads are in, trying to keep a constant throttle while hitting grooves, potholes, splits, manhole covers, drain covers... is a bit wearing!