Manxkiwi

4 hours ago, kyle J said:

Yup the 700 not available in Canada and if it was I think that would be the ticket !

Ah, I didn't realise that. I haven't ridden one, but believe they are very good.

Oh well, you'll have to make do with a 900 then! I see you found a non GT bike. If that doesn't work out for any reason, I would highly recommend trying to seek out a GT. There are a good number of differences, all of them good to have IMO.

Can anyone confirm that the non GT has unadjustable forks? Or am i mistaken? 

Oh and if you pull the trigger on the 19 900, the MRA vario-tour screen is highly recommended by me.

Good luck whichever way you choose..

I haven't read every single word in this thread, but has no one suggested a Tracer 700?

Aren't all the gears in constant mesh? If you smashed through the gears, you would damage the dogs, not the teeth. Am I right in my understanding of bike gearboxes? It's certainly a huge failure whatever the reason/cause.

Yes, they have the roller clickers for span adjustment and billet machined. I just got them from Ebay, about $70nz, a while ago now, so don't have a link to the seller. But I imagine there are plenty to chose from?

I found MT10 levers are a direct fit for the GT. I got the cheap ones (MT10) and they are a perfect fit (incl. CC).

Easier to find too I found.

10 hours ago, duckie said:

Thing about a dyno is ……..the motorcycle is held in place unlike the real world.

In the real world…..the motorcycle moves forward when acclerating.

Another thing that effects how mototcycle handles is the location of the center of gravity. 

Yes good point. It's not a real world demonstration. But the rear doesn't go down.

Keith Code proves rear suspension lifts under 'normal' acceleration, i.e. on the flat, with a pointer fitted to a bike. They then go for a spin and film what's happening. If the rear of the bike went down, very powerful bikes would be spinning up left, right and center. You'd be lessening the desired push into the track for the drive forward. The desired geometry pushes the tyre into the ground.

Because the front lifts significantly under acceleration, many people see this as the rear squatting. It is in fact lifting, just less than the front.

Treat yourself to watching a few dyno runs online. Watch the rear of the bike when they go for it through the gears. All will be clear..

When I did my 5000k south island tour, the GT was fully loaded (top box and panniers). With missus on the back, I worked out we were a few kgs over the bike load limit. The bike handled just fine. I do have a Nitron shock though. The stock shock would never have handled it!

Maybe move the hour element 12hrs forward?

I have always tightened the axle nut with the bike on its wheels (any bike). There is a small amount of play within the axle, swingarm and adjusters. All the play is taken up in the natural direction if you do it this way. I also hold the bike somewhere and push my knee onto the the rear tyre as I tighten the nut, to make sure the adjuster blocks are 'home' and any play (fore'n'aft) is also taken up. You could argue that it makes very little difference, but as an engineer, I have always done it that way.. YMMV.

Would you post to NZ? I'm interested if that's possible. Cheers.

Looks ugly but you'll probably get away with it I reckon. Some people will say no compromise with brakes, which is true to a point. But the shoulders of the bolts take all the load in a 'shear' direction, at 18Nm the bolts are basically just stopping the discs from falling off. There is still most of the location face there.

It's up to you in the end though. Go for a wee ride and see how it is. I doubt there will be a catastrophic failure. Good luck.

Fair enough. I've got 5 turns of preload on the 750lb for solo riding. 10ish for two up.

Ultimately only you can make your call for yourself. Good luck anyway. If you found your spring choice to be not ideal, you can always change it again, it's not that big a deal.

Cheers.

I would imagine you'll regret a 115Nm spring and will be upping it later. Here in NZ many roads are pretty bumpy, I was continually grounding out the bike on bumps in corners with the stock unit on full preload, riding solo! There was no way I would be touring two up with that. I guess it depends how bumpy your roads are and how you ride, but I would never go lower than my 750 knowing what I know now. YMMV..

Photos for reference: Not lovely vs Nitron loveliness.

If it helps at all; on my 2019 GT I have an NTR2. I ended up with 750lb/in spring, which is approx 13.1Nm. Stock is 10! And woefully undersprung.

I am 80kg in civvies. The GTs longer swingarm necessitates a heavier spring than earlier gens. I do mixed riding, sometimes two up and the 750 seems spot on for me. I can get my sags no prob and the bike handles very well.

5 hours ago, howie333 said:

2017 FJ-09

 I measure 150mm total fork travel, made deduction for actual fork travel and deducted the 137mm, made 13mm mak on fork tube, w/ tiewrap on fork tube, I measured 72mm left w/ fully loosened adjusters. would'nt my sag only be 46% ? I would need only 55mm left to get a 35% sag.

Sounds like you're trying to have 33% left. You want 33% used, 66% left unused at a standstill. So, around 100mm. It seems you need to wind preload in to increase the 72mm dimension.

Though I am a little unclear on your measuring system..

You don't mention if you're measuring rider sag or static sag. Both are relevant for checking correct spring weight. But the 30ish% measurement is a rider 'on' measurement. Though you must know this I guess if you've watched some vids? As a very rough guide, push cable tie to top, get on bike and gently lift her vertical, then get off. The tie should be in vicinity of 100mm up from the bottom (ish).

And, ok, I'll be the first; the rear shock isn't worth the material it's made of. Forks aren't actually too bad for stockers. But if you're very light, you might want to get lighter springs?

Ideally you'd book your travel and accom at least a year out. If you have enough time; arriving and leaving a bit before and after the fortnight will make it much easier.

You will deffinately not regret it! I guarantee you that..

On 11/17/2021 at 7:41 AM, Rdecae81 said:

so one question.  I have a 2019 Tracer GT

figure in 3 months it will be 3 model years old, with 20K miles, so probably worth 8K give or take

how did you justify (sorry I am a right brain CPA) spending 2,500.00 on a 8k bike.  I plan on keeping this bike for another two years, but by then it will be 5 model years old, with 50k miles.  the depreciation will be about 100% on the suspension components

on the other hand I will have 30k miles of fun, so maybe I just focus on that, and screw the money

You put the stock suspension back in to sell the bike. Then sell the good stuff to get a chunk of it back. Also if you have the good suspension for a lot of miles, you save (some) money on tyres. They wear better and last longer, generally speaking.

1 hour ago, Kenny A. said:

I like the look of the SW Motech bars,and they are also a lot cheaper than the genuine Yamaha ones. There isn't much choice for the 9GT,yet.

I think kilo3 meant the bike, not the bars..

2 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Maybe the beginning of the production run they did send the swingarms to the DID Chain factory. Maybe it's right next door.  Japan is not a large place.

I DID check both sides multiple times now. I marked a random link to know when I've gone around. I laid on my  side with a flashlight and spun it around.

Hmm, that is unusual. Maybe the riveting machine at Yamaha puts the same shape on the end of the pins? No matter where the chain is fitted, it has to be looped through the swingarm and riveted by some means.

9 hours ago, duckie said:

Hmmmm, my tracer gt runs a 118 link chain when using stock sprockets…..16/45.

I know the swingam is longer by roughly 2 inches. Didnt think it would take a 8 links longer chain.

The green tape is used for chain adjustment. The other side has one also. I got a really good alignment of the rear.

When I go to adjust the chain, I place a mark on the both tapes where the front of the axle slider is located.

Once I get the chain slack where I want it using the sprocket side adjuster, I place a mark on the tape where the front of the axle slider is now.

I measure the distance between the marks and then on the other side, place a mark on the tape that distance from the current mark.

I then just adjust that side back until the axle slider front  is at the new mark.

 

 

8 5/8ths of an inch (the first 5 in '525') is 5 inches, so 2 1/2 inches longer (top and bottom of chain). 

You don't need to move the adjuster bolts when removing the wheel. So you never need to reset them once set, just count flats when adjusting.

7 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Is that a pic of the OEM chain or a replacement? I know what they look like I've installed a few.

I don't have one. 🤷‍♂️

It's OEM, not buggered enough yet to require replacement. Have you looked on the inside of your chain? 

I doubt Yamaha send all of their swingarms to the chain manufacturer to be factory fitted through said swingarms before assembly. You will have a rivet type link, you're just not finding it for some reason.

Your master link will look like this. You will definitely have one!