Manxkiwi

Correction! I just went out and checked: the panniers are 10kg, but the top box (39l) is 3kg!!

Crazy..

Yamaha seem incredibly over cautious about luggage. IIRC the top box shouldn't take more than 2kg and the panniers 3kg!!! This must be to completely rule out any comp claims for over loading? Could be why they don't recommend box with panniers?

"Did you have two or three pairs of undies in the top box?", "Three". Claim thrown out; over loaded! Ha ha.

The GTs quality is pretty good in my opinion, apart from the fasteners. They are truly woeful. I try to replace each one I find the need to deal with. Honda are very good generally speaking, but in my opinion Triumph are beautifully put together with good design and components. My Daytona is littered with stainless fasteners. Of course there will be small exceptions and this is a generalisation of my opinion.

Interesting discussion, I think the spending more time on one side of the tyre because of the side of the road you ride is a thin concept. If you ride 50km down a twisty road, how much further has the right side vs the left gone? Intersections would be counted as negligible I think. 

I think the camber does play some part; on the straight its negligible, but in corners the camber is added to or subtracted from your actual lean angle, added to (as mentioned) being more aggressive in lefts/rights (depending on which side you ride on). So: ride on left, right turns taken faster because of better vision, more shear on tyre side on the right. 

On chicken strips: the tyre profile and squash amount (construction and pressure) count a lot to getting out to the edge. Michelins are very semicircular, so hard to get right out there. Some others are relatively flat across the profile, so easy to get right to the edge.

Just my thoughts...

Yes, I noticed it is the earlier model. Maybe there is a long development lag for the police to be satisfied they're good? Not sure, but the news is fresh. So they are just getting here now!

Ha ha, I don't either. Never have. A mate sent me the link..

The NZ police Tracers have started to arrive. FB link to article:

https://www.facebook.com/111212242261339/posts/3925349540847571/?sfnsn=mo

I don't think you can execute a sync via the scan tool. But you can at least check without a full disassembly. That's my understanding..

So obviously the OBD scan tool doesn't show vacuum values like Triumph/Tune ecu does? You can check throttle sync with a dongle in 2 mins. 

The fictional character doesn't say if the 45mm is static or rider sag. 45mm rider sag is ball park. Don't forget, you're not simply getting sags correct (though, of course this is important). Changing springs require damping control changes. I'm 80kg in civvie clothes and required a 50% spring rate increase on my Nitron. I'm sure the fictional rider will love the results of spending as much as poss on suspension.

People don't advocate suspension upgrades because they have shares in suspension companies. They do it because they know it's about the best thing you can do.

Fitted these Givi hand guard extensions. Haven't ridden with them yet, but they should help a lot in the cooler air of winter..

Dunlops 'Mutant' tyre looks interesting and gets great reviews. Could be something to look at?

PS. The video shows pretty normal behaviour. Of course there will be very slight resistance with the clutch compared to neutral. Presuming you've pushed a few bikes around in gear (bump starting maybe?), you'll know how much to expect. 

But it doesn't look undue in the video. So the drag issue might be solved, but the bump, jerky pick up still eludes..

The wheel turning in neutral will just be gear/oil drag.

Maybe I wasn't specific enough in the main post? There is a bit of resistance as the clutch frees itself, then very little. There is a multi plate clutch in there, you must feel it a bit. But once rolling around, virtually nothing, extremely low resistance.

You could try adjusting your cable to no slack (for a test), then try the roll around test and see if its freer? (More free). To be sure the clutch is fully releasing. If it's still resistant to pushing around then there could be an issue? Still guessing..

Oops, I think you're talking about a whole hugger aren't you? Not the 'extenda'.. Sorry. 

Mine fitted perfectly. What year is yours?

Yes, cold. Bike parked in the garage. Temps around 20c here at the moment.

I must say, all the things you are saying makes me think it might be worth a look inside the clutch. That 'bang' you mention doesn't sound right. I'm still thinking ramps and/or plate issue? Without an inspection it's all a bit of a guessing game.

Cheers and good luck.

I doubt that would be the issue, as semi synth is recommended by Yamaha. Sounds like you have unusually high drag in the clutch. Could it be the fibre plates deteriorating? That would be unusual, but not impossible..

A great couple of videos there. Very clear in showing how those/our clutches work.

I just went out and rolled the bike around in gear with clutch pulled in (obviously), there is no undue resistance from my clutch, backwards and forwards the same. I wonder if you have an issue with your plates? Given what you say about its resistance to being moved in gear..

So it seems my thought could still be a possibility? The slip/assist ramps might be sticking slightly (stiction). Did you try rocking her back in gear then seeing if you get the same feeling?

25 minutes ago, petshark said:

Down and back so the riding wind blows everything out instead of in 👍

 

Indeed..

A wee thing I do is adjust the 'fine-adjust' wheel at the lever so the slot faces down. Up is just asking for water to enter.

5 minutes ago, petshark said:

I flushed a ton of transparant silicone lubricant through there and it came out at the bottom completely clean. With both ends detached you can see pieces of the cable that normally never see daylight and the cable looks brand new in every way.

But.. you were right!!

It is the cable. 
I used vise grips (with some cardboard in between for protection) to check the clutch arm on it’s own and it was completely normal. Great!

I lubed the cable again but it is definitely binding somehow. When it’s not under tension it is super loose. I can twist and move it to its extremes but there is no way to get any hint that something is not right inside. When I pull on both ends and move it this way I can immediately feel the familiar jerkiness. 

I then spent a lot of time on the routing of the cable and disconnected the cable tie near the top. I was trying to change the angles to find if I could make it better or worse but had little success. 

So I guess I’ll get a new cable. 😁
 

You wrote this while I was writing my post! Ha ha.

Sounds like you've got it now. Good to hear. A simple cheap resolution is always good. Cheers.

I thought right at the beginning of this thread that it could be the ramps in the clutch. It has a slip assist clutch, like my Triumph. If there is abnormal wear on the ramps, I reckon it could manifest in this way. That's a clutch apart job though. I don't think wear on the 'fingers' of the basket would show like this as the movement of the plates simply isn't enough.

A thought for a test on this, not sure if it will work, but worth a try perhaps? Put the bike in gear (not running), roll it back against the gearbox (maybe try clutch in and clutch out?). Then see if you feel the 'notchiness'? This might unload the ramps enough to feel a difference? Worth a try imo as it's free.

Something I have noticed/realised looking through this thread, is that the SCR (SRC?), Ebay and SW motec plates mount via the M6 engine case screws, whereas the Givi mounts via the frame. I think this is a real consideration, that if you hit something hard, you might crack the engine castings. Not trying to sh*t stir or anything, just an observation and (I believe) a valid consideration. Cheers.