Soullancer
-
Posts
46 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Soullancer
-
-
On 7/14/2021 at 2:17 PM, CRFan250 said:
Yep you are right for sure. Its funny because I find the Puig touring screen to be uglier then the Madstad...I think it makes the bike look like an alien, haha. But I am 100% for whatever works for any given person👍
On that note, I have kind of given up making the bike look pretty. It is not the best looking bike on the planet and this time around and I am making mods that will make the bike work on a long ride. So with the Madstad, I have a Seth Laam seat coming, lol. So it may even be more ugly but man I will be riding in complete comfort (I hope)! If I want pretty and cool I ride my 2010 Ducati1098 Streetfighter, haha
How does that clip on shield work for you on the madstad? Seems like a overkill? Or does it still make a difference
-
This one is new
And the original hugger (shorter):
-
2
-
-
Shorty in the summer on the madstad mount, 26" in the winter
-
2
-
-
Nice!! Looks neat, I'd love to have one of these
-
1
-
-
Nice looking bike!
Isn't the passenger seat bag a little clumsy to get it off quick?
And one thing I noticed, or is it just me? You sit back quite alot on the saddle, while I always sit against the front of the tank lol.
-
3 hours ago, northsouth said:
I just bought a Madstad for my 2020 GT. I got the 22in light tint and there appears to be numerous tiny bubbles in the plastic. They are sending me a new screen free of charge. I also had their set up on my fz10. I ordered a replacement screen of a different size and it came in with imperfections. They sent 2 more screens for free before I got one that was perfect. I think they have some issues with their plastics, but their customer service has been pretty good for me. They don't want the old screens back so I have a few now.
So.. does the 22 work for your size for stopping turbulence?
-
..Just got a update.
Madstad isn't the fastest with email replys, but waiting was worth it these 2 weeks.
They just sended me a notice that they are replacing the damaged screen, for free, to Europe.
Guess the nightmare of no answer or a 6 month return hassle that I was afraid of turned into a good customer service experience 🙂
-
1
-
1
-
-
7 minutes ago, Michiel900GT said:
Uh oh, I ordered mine 2 weeks ago. Let's just hope it will work....
Mine also arrived damaged..
It's a complete nightmare as I see what I've paid for it to get it here, and waiting for over 3 months.
Now madstad are overthinking wether I should return it in order to get a new one. 😭 If it goes by the same speed I'll be waiting 6 months and another 100$
-
46 minutes ago, draco_1967 said:
I was also having buffeting issues. In an unrelated attempt to prevent the mirrors from always getting bumped and coming loose on long rides, I decided to switch to some CRG mirrors after doing some research. I bought these (though I found a used set to save some $$): http://www.rottweilerperformance.com/quick-flip-mirror-mounts-arrow-kit/. Removing the factory mirrors resulted in very clean air flow with my 24" Madstad screen! I didn't make the change with that expectation in mind, but it worked wonderfully. There are knock-off versions of the mirrors available for much less money, but they don't have the quick rotating detent setup that the CRG mirrors have. It's not a necessary feature, but it is really nice for lane filtering. Note, the Rottweiler kit includes a mount to attach the mirrors to KTM handguards, and not the actual bars. I had to make a spacer and get some longer screws for them to work with the Tracer handguards. Here are what the mirrors look like on the bike:
In other news, I have had a super annoying whistle ever since I installed the Madstad. I thought it was my helmet at first, but the whistle didn't change or go away when moving my head or covering vents. It turns out the little "V" cutout on the Madstad bracket is a perfect whistle at 60+ MPH:
Quick question, how to remove the mirrors (without making them spin because of the wind when I put em back on ;))
-
1
-
-
Got the 24" on my tracer gt, I'm 6'0".
Can't get it right, keep getting the buffeting on my helmet, feeling it right on the top of it.
Dunno what I'm doing wrong after trying all kinds of angles, had high hopes on this screen after all the stories
-
Any photos available in this shielding the tft screen mod?
And does it help just above the screen or also when it is placed on the steering bars, as you noticed interference there aswell I saw
-
Does the stoppy happen at the end of your braking when coming to a halt or immediately at the beginning of braking?
Stoppy means your front wheel has grip!! Alot of it. If it starts sliding, grip is gone..
Don't expect it to go sliding on dry asfalt to be honest (and ask for the abs to kick in). That's more something for the rear wheel as you figure out the weight distribution and thus braking balance between front/back.
In this case I think it's a combination of getting your suspension right, and using the right technique.
It involves leaning backward a little and keeping your arms in the right position. Don't get your weight over or near the tank.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, duckie said:
well, here's something I just started doing.....I did a chain adjustment and wheel alignment then realized I needed a rear tire.
To avoid going through the process again, I put a length of vinyl tape that runs along the side of the axle slider placed such that the tape edge runs even against the front of the slider where the screw head rest. I did this for both sides.
I then placed a fine mark on the tape at where the front edge of the adjuster is located. Did this on both sides.
when I replaced the rear wheel, I just adjusted the axle sliders until the front edge of the axle sliders was at the marks on both tapes. I rechecked the tension and alignment to make sure nothing changed which nothing did. I kept the tape on just as a quick visual check to see if the rear axle has moved.
I need to do a tension adjustment now. So, all I have to do is adjust the chain tension, use a pair of calipers to set the distance from old mark to the new mark once adjusted, then use them the set the distance on the other side using the old mark. Once set, remark the tape.
I read on here about someone making their own chain tension gauge by making a mark on a piece of wood then measuring up 35mm, make another mark and then another mark 10mm from that one. which would be 45mm from the first mark. Just place the the first mark at the bottom of the chain, push the chain up to see where the top of the chain is in relation to the 35 and 45 mm marks.
Works great. So, between the tension gauge and the tape next to the axle sliders, chain adjusting just got easier for me.
Well.. if you search the internet on how to measure you also get millions of ways
From bottom chain, push it up and measure on top of the chain
😵 from Bottom , push it up, measure the bottom again
Etc...
-
Mine came with one aswell, brand new, europe
-
Still waiting on my screen from madstad, send on may 28th....... 😔
Send by ship instead of plans cause of covid.
-
23 minutes ago, iitywygms said:
Moving the lever increases the distance between the two cable connection points. Reducing cable slack. You are correct that the travel is the same. If I rotate the lever 90 degrees, the clutch cable would then be to short.
Si using a adjustable lever shouldn't cause problems if I use setting 1 or 5 on the lever
-
So.. If you take adjustable clutch levers, you risk not engaging the clutch entirely? 😳 When setting them shorter to the bars
-
6 hours ago, Wintersdark said:
They're 4.25mm thick, so they raise the front of the seat 4.25mm
a stack of thinner washers would do the same, there's nothing special about these, they're just thick washers. I've got iirc 2mm washers raising the rear of the tank as well, the thick washers wouldn't fit without the rear of the tank lifted a bit too.
LoL, ok! I was thinking to myself that assuming the height was 4mm was kind of stupid, what could 4mm possibly do in terms of making a difference
😐 A hell of a lot I guess when I hear you guys
-
5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:
Amazing. This is perfect.
Now, I run my seat in the upper position, so things look a bit different, but this worked great for me.
I went a little further than @smurph. What I did was removed the tank retaining bolts right there under the seat, lifted it a bit and slid a pair of washers underneat (one per bolt) - this raised the rear of the tank by 2mm. That same piece, of course, is the piece that has the slots for the seat height adjustment, so this immediately raises the front of the seat by 2mm. I then put giant 4.25mm fender washers taped to the frame, *under* the plastic seat base that @smurph taped the washers to. I did this because trying to tape washers to that plastic base (or the seat itself) was difficult: they'd get pushed off when I tried to slide the seat on. However, when taped to the frame underneath, they simply hold the rubber stops up and are never subjected to lateral stress.
This made an *enormous* difference, the seat feels completely flat now, and I can move around on it without feeling like I'm going to slide into the tank as soon as I relax. It's more stable, too, less side to side tippiness.
By raising the rear of the tank, you can get a lot more adjustment room, but to be honest you don't really need much. Even the little bit I got it up here makes a tremendous, immediately noticable difference.
Lift the rear of the tank a bit.
Washers onto the frame.
And done!
The advantage of going this way is you can still easily change the seat height in the normal way without needing to move spacers around. If you stick spacers permenantly to the plastic insert, you'd need to move them to still keep the slope when you adjust the seat height.
Just for me so I don't do anything stupid 😉
How much do those 4.25mm fender washers raise the whole thing? As I don't know that type of washer.
-
Cardo packtalk bold is the way to go... Good volume, quality sound, microphone is a no brainer because it sends clear voice thanks to the noise cancelling of the wind. Other pros are mentioned above.
You get what you pay for...
-
-
15 hours ago, betoney said:
Here is a list of typical Yamaha connectors.
Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals
Sumitomo - HM Sealed(Mounting Bracket type) and MT Sealed type...thanks, already looked on that page, didn't find it
. only the right connector appears there. The lefty seems to be a mysterious one, tho there are 2 on the GT in the dash and the usb/12v cigarette socket is connected to it
-
1 hour ago, flyfifer said:
Look on ebay for Yamaha-DC-Power-Outlet-Connector-x2-FZ6-MT07-MT09-FZ07-FZ09.
That's not the one I ment, that's the unplugged right one, that is easy to find. I'm talking about the left one that has a cable plugged in on the picture
-
does anybody know what kind of plug this white one that already is connected? The right one wasn't so hard to find, but a want a loose left white connector to connect some wires nicely.
Paralyzed by windshield choices…
in Tracer 900 GT Discussions
Posted
Thanks for your reply!
Did you choose the biggest one? As I see there are 3 different sizes available