Jfundo

Old gas wouldn't make it not start, it would just run a little worse.  The plugs could get their terminals coated with crap if something weird happens in the combustion chamber.  The fact that it started once is telling, and we need to consider that one running after the new exhaust is the source of the problem.  Something got messed up running like that.  That could still be fouled spark plugs if it is running with a very bad mixture. 

In all honesty, you don't sound like doing this diagnosis work is really in your wheelhouse.  There are too many things it can be and you are having a hard time helping us eliminate possibilities.  This isn't meant to be an insult at all, you obviously have skills if you welded up your own exhaust creation, that is an accomplishment. I'm just thinking you should throw in the towel and have a good mechanic look at it.

Like you said, it is very likely something simple and dumb, which would be a good thing.  

I think I would start at the beginning to diagnose.  I feel like you can rule out clogged injectors, or an electrical system problem just because the bike isn't old enough (unless you accidentally damaged a wire).  Check for proper spark.  Pull the spark plugs out, leave them connected to the wires, rest them so the threads of the plug are against the engine head (for grounding) and hit the starter (don't have your hand on it unless you appreciate the sensation of 20,000 volts).  See if there is a good spark there.   If not, maybe somehow in the process you just fouled your plugs.  If so, clean the tips up with a wire brush (as a temporary test solution until you buy new ones) and try again. 

Edit:  Well, I guess we all had the same idea at the same time...

As far as your question as to what to partially cover the exhaust with, a piece of wood or something.  Your new exhaust sure looks to be free flowing, no doubt there.  To address everyone else, pull the spark plugs to see their condition, if they are wet or not.  That would help determine if it is flooded.  Although I have no idea how you would inadvertently flood a fuel injected motor, especially one that is in near new condition.  It would have to be a result of not starting, not a cause, wouldn't it? 

I don't agree that it sounds flooded, it is firing.  

Sounds sort of like an old carbureted engine trying to start up in the cold without choke.  Meaning too lean for the temp (you are in new england, right).  Oxygen sensor does have an impact on your mixture.  So does the back pressure of your exhaust of which you just drastically reduced.   I would try the old fashioned choke method if possible, put your hand over the air intake.  Or maybe even exhaust (I suggest something not directly connected to your nervous system for that one).

See if either of those make any difference.  What exhaust did you install?

Plenty of people will read this post!  We love mysteries.  I'll be the first to suggest that the oil level is a red herring, but lets start there anyway.  If you were very much overfilled, maybe it got into the cylinders.  My first suggestion is to pull the spark plugs and see if maybe they got fouled.  Try to start the bike, then pull the plugs.  If they are gummed up, then you fouled them.  If they are completely dry, then you aren't getting any fuel and is unrelated to your oil issues.

If the plugs are fouled, replace them.  Fix the oil level, then you are good to go.  You will probably blow out a ton of smoke for a couple minutes. 

I doubt

you trashed your motor by having an extra quart of oil so don't worry about that. 

My initial reaction to that is that it looks amazingly clean for the miles.

I'm thinking you install the exhaust and don't re-map.  You will have plenty of popping.  Farting on the other hand, you will need to run some sort of refried bean injector into the combustion chamber.  Or just eat the burritos yourself and make your own farting. 

Welcome to the team that believes that the function of a bike is priority #1, not the looks.  I don't understand buying a bike that looks a certain way and as a result sacrifices the main point of the bike, which is the ride.  And welcome to the board.  We are all geeks, so be prepared for that. 

No other changes to the bike?  Air filter?  You are somewhere between being normal and maybe running slightly lean.  I feel like mine does a slight bit of popping and it is completely stock.  

I typically put in the highest octane they have because I feel like I'm taking better care of my bike that way and it is what I'm used to doing.  No real purpose other than to avoid ethanol.  Doesn't hurt the bike in any way as far as I know.

You convinced me to trust my own opinion more than others.  

^^see what I did there?  Anyway, I have a full can, I'll give it another shot next time I clean and re-lube.  

I think it is a genius move by Yamaha.  It will make a great street bike for the younger crowd.  Sure it can't touch and R6 on the track, but it looks like it can, and it has a decent size motor.  The price point is the key, it is significantly cheaper than and R6. It is obviously aimed directly at the ninja 650, which I'm guessing sells well.  And naming it an R matches Kawi naming theirs a Ninja.  

I put that stuff on my chain, and when I took it to my local guy to get my inspection done he gave me quite a lecture and told me it was crap.  He showed me what he meant, there were some dry spots on the chain.  It doesn't seem to leave any sort of protective coating.  

I have a can of that stuff that I use to paint things all the time in areas that don't need to be shiny.  Very durable coating and even can look nice like your brackets. 

Maybe as an experiment, take the baffle out you have.  See what happens.

I think it all depends on how potentially wasting $40 on giving it a shots feels to you.

I thought this was supposed to be a judgement free zone...

Anyway, my guess is there is just some sort of resonance coming out of the pipe at that specific RPM that can work its way into your ears, and the earplugs are actually helping it.  Probably need to start at the source and change something with your exhaust.  Those baffles you can buy might not cut down volume a ton, but I'm willing to bet they will change harmonics.  Hopefully for the better.

I think I would start here:

https://delkevic.com/accessories/baffles/

On 3/21/2021 at 5:02 PM, Ride365 said:

I stupidly ran my GT on the centerstand in gear after washing it, now I have a CEL.......guess I'll order this up.

  I did that the other day, not for long, just lecturing the kid on how clutches work and such.  Didn't get a light though.

Let's hope that the seat is where his creativity with modifications starts and ends.

A couple years ago there was a national geographic story about the recovery of the area around the volcano, and how it is a one giant science experiment conducted by nature.  They are learning a ton from it. 

I wish I lived less than 3,000 miles from there. Wait, I do, I just looked it up.  2,863 miles over 43 hours.  I can handle that on my bike.  

I don't know that I buy that the wheelbase would make much of a difference in how far you lean, but it might make a difference for how stable and planted you feel while in a lean.  FJRay, do you get a sense of why you are slower on the curves in the Tracer?  Pucker factor with something not feeling right that keeps you from pushing it a bit more?  Seems like something that a better suspension would take care of. 

Cutting off all the parts and the bottom of the fender and moving the license plate up can actually be done without changing the arm length, and vice versa.  It will still have a pretty big impact.  

By the way...link to my writeup:  

All the differences that you don't like definitely were intended to be improvements, just not for the canyon carvers.  And I'm sure you know that they can't update the bike without changing the bodywork.  That just isn't good business.  

I don't have any advice for you.  Sucks to be disappointed.  

I have no idea on what happens with side cases.  I don't expect to ever have any.  The width of the signals is unchanged, just moved up and towards the front, probably in the 3"-4" range. 

It really wasn't that hard, probably only took 3 or 4 hours including time staring at it trying to figure out the next step.