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iitywygms

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Posts posted by iitywygms

  1. On 7/18/2020 at 5:38 PM, betoney said:

    After I initially adjusted mine, there was a very noticeable difference, I decided to adjust it again dropping the settings down to 12, even smoother.  Next time you are under the tank, give it a try.

    I'm not sure exactly but I believe the adjustment affects the ratio or speed between the throttle grip turning and the throttle bodies opening.

    Would it be safe to say you turned the aps counter clockwise about 1/8 inch?  

  2. 41 minutes ago, betoney said:

    The shock is a direct swap, no special tools required.  The forks will require some sort of cartridge tool like you mentioned, a fork oil height measuring tool, a spring compressor and a jamb nut holder.

    FSTK.jpg

    We have assembled a tool kit consisting of everything special you will need...

    So with this kit, and a cartridge tool of some sort I can do the complete fork cartridge swap?

     

  3. 16 minutes ago, fr8dog said:

    If you're near Sac, contact Aaron at bhp motorsports.

    They installed ktech valves, pistons and springs for my weight.

    There's a mechanic there that has a fj-09, fz-09 and a xsr. I guess he likes the engine. 

    👍

    Did they have the parts or did you bring your own?

    Sac is about 2 hours from me.  San Fran sico is about the same.  Any suggestions in the 707 area?

  4. 13 minutes ago, betoney said:

    There have been several members getting upgrades recently, lots of discussion in the past on choices.  What are your questions?

    Obviously the ideal solution would be consulting a vendor close to you but that's not always an option.  Most people order components and install the shock their self and the fork might be easier to mail off and get modified unless you have the proper tools.

    Lots of info on this site, feel free to ask.👍

    Well.  First, basically what is a good value for around 1500 usd.? Just in parts.  I'm thinking K-Tech is a good option?

    2019 Yamaha TRACER 900 K-Tech Suspension Razor-R Lite Rear Shock

    2019 Yamaha TRACER 900 K-Tech Suspension 20IDS Fork Cartridges

    I'm not a racer.  I enjoy spirited riding every now and then but my tires wear mostly down the middle.

    And those 2 purchases should totally cover me right?  Nothing else to buy as far as shocks and forks go besides fork oil.

    Second.  Is this a diy project?  I do brakes, change shocks, I do all my own work on my vehicles and have been wrenching all my life.  But I have never done motorcycle forks.  From what I have read so far, most people have been able to do the cartridge swap without buying special tools.  I saw one guy made a tool from pvc pipe to reach down in the tube to get that one special nut. 👍 And I could macgiver  a spring compressor.  The rear shock seems fairly straight forward.  

    But then I ask myself if its worth it to pay a shop to do the work.  It is vital that it is done correctly.  And I would suspect a shop would spend some time helping me set it up correctly too.  But, in my area a good suspension shop is 1.5 hours away.  And its more money.

    The second question is more of a personal choice I guess. 

    But some feedback on the K-tech choice or another option would be cool.

     

  5. 4 minutes ago, Stew said:

    HIya @iitywygms , I went with a UK company , TWS Suspension, who provided me with a list of custom options.

    I decided on...

    Fully strip and service forks and Install K-Tech-20 SSK Piston Kit with springs to suit your weight

     

    Replace the stock shock with a K-Tech Razor R Performance shock fully adjustable in preload, compression and rebound

     

    All being fitted by the guy who runs the company, so it will all be set as well as possible for me. I am tall and very skinny, so I like a bike set up really soft, but with the ability to stiffen up the back end a bit for camping gear/inflatable canoe/pillion (in that order!)

    Sounds sweet.  I can turn a wrench so I am going to try this myself.  Although I think if I could find a shop nearby that specialized in suspension I may go that route.  I'm hoping that I can spend just under 1500 usd and get goodies for both the front and rear.  But the options out there are overwhelming. 

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  6. 2 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

    I know, right?   A fairly minor change, but it really helps me connecting with the bike   

    Did you do the Rizoma 60mm risers that were discussed in another thread?   

    Yup.  Those are the ones.  Pretty straight forward swap with a long extension.  One of the riser kept spinning on me when tightening it down but other than that it was fairly simple.  I did not have to make any changes to cables or anything except mirrors.  Well worth it in my opinion.  The ease of putting the key in is a added bonus.

     

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  7. 1 hour ago, Stew said:

    Next thing, call the suspension guy on Monday, as I got an email to say that my front and rear suspension k-tech shiny bits have arrived and to phone to arrange a ride down to have everything done, yahooooooo!

    What suspension goodies did you decide on?  I have the base 900 and have been looking around trying to find something that is the best bang for the buck.

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  8. 26 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

    You may surprise yourself with adjustments to the riding position after having the suspension done.   I went lower & farther away with the bars, and the slight extra weight over the front is the perfect complement to the more sporting nature of the bike.   It’s still super comfortable, and the slight forward upper-body lean balances nicely with the clean airflow from the shorty windscreen I use.    It’s kind of a a comfy hooligan-sport-standard...  

    I just got done putting on risers that are lower and I set them farther away.  Wow! so much better for me.  Feel way more in tune with the bike.

     

    • Like 1
  9. 22 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

    I can’t speak for for original poster, but I did exactly the same thing and LOVE the results.   It feels more natural to me than the stock setup, especially in combination with the CalSci shorty windscreen I use.  The slightly more forward lean is nicely balanced by the airflow at 75 mph or so. 

    I’ve put about 1,500 miles on the bike with the Rizoma risers, and my only regret is that I didn’t do it sooner.  

    Thanks for the info.  Did you run into any issues with cables or levers?  Sounds like this is pretty straight forward swap.  I just pulled the trigger on getting some.

     

  10. On 4/27/2019 at 1:50 PM, jeff400650 said:

    The soft, outer insulation for the wires touch the tank trim on the left side at full lock, but in no way seem problematic. And the risers come with a pair of nice little spacers that can be used to raise them about 4mm. I tried them first with the spacers, but could see that I did not need them, so took them back out. Also, they are offset 5mm forward and back like the stock risers, so you can mount the for more or less reach. I like the forward position.

    the throttle cable got tight with the lowering and wanted to not return to closed at full left lock, I adjusted it for more free play with the thumb wheel adjuster, and all is well.

    I have only ridden about 10 easy miles on em. I am about to go for a little longer ride with good twisties in a few minutes.

    So it's been a year.  Still have them on?  Any regrets?

  11. 2 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

    Your old school style can only be matched by going backwards, if that’s what you desire then so be it, it’s your bike. It’s funny how all the older riders have such a hard time with the newer bikes, it’s not the bike it’s you. You are slower, possibly fatter and closer to the grave than you think. It holds you back but then you want to blame the bike. Bikes have gotten better, you have gotten worse.....these are facts 

    Looking through your post history I can see that confrontation is something you enjoy.  And using your logic no one should make modifications to a bike to make it better for themselves.  Change windscreen?  Noooo.  Change your riding style.  Put your head closer to the windscreen.  Ass get sore on the seat?  Dont change the seat.  Change your body.  Go ahead and keep on knocking people if it makes you feel good.  I will get the golden ticket because I have gotten it before with a little bit of research and work on my previous bikes.  You might get there someday if you relax a bit and take some advice from us "old school riders" .... Also facts.

  12. 13 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

    Maybe you need to flash your riding style, quite possibly it’s more you than the bike. It’s been put out there so much that you need this or that to ride better when in truth it all comes down to you, not the bike you ride. Seat hurts your ass, change it......throttle not perfect, flash ecu.......bike not responsive enough, suspension will do the trick.......always after that golden ticket that doesn’t exist. 

    I agree riding style is somewhat involved in all things.  But I do not think I need to change my riding style after 30 years of riding over 6 different motorcycles.  None had nearly as twitchy of a throttle as this bike.  This particular bike has this quirk and I am hoping to remedy it using suggestions found here.  Sounds like a ecu flash may do the trick.  

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  13. 8 minutes ago, betoney said:

    I have mine flashed for smoothness and set to default to A-mode which is now perfect for for everyday riding.  The biggest benefit of A-mode is the quick-turn throttle but it doesn't have to be abrupt, jerky or track use only.

    I wish I could do a before and after comparison of a ecu flash.  I am getting use to the abruptness of the throttle, but I still notice it quite a bit.  Like going over bumps on the road cause a noticeable change in the throttle just because my hand moves a bit while going over bumps.  All while in standard mode.  I'm nervous to go into to A mode right now.  Hopefully a ecu flash mellows it out a bit.

  14. 2 hours ago, kilo3 said:

    Moving where the arm sits does almost nothing (minus the minimal radius change in relation to the cable), you still have the same amount of travel and still need to have a set amount of slack.

    Moving the lever increases the distance between the two cable connection points.  Reducing cable slack.  You are correct that the travel is the same.  If I rotate the lever 90 degrees, the clutch cable would then be to short.  

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