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MrFritz86

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Posts posted by MrFritz86

  1. 2 hours ago, DavidS said:

    Am I the only one who uses the kill switch to turn the motorcycle off? If I' done riding for the day, I pull the bike in the garage and flip the kill switch. I get off the bike and THEN turn the key (actually remove the key from the bike, as I don't think leaving the key in the bike is a smart move, even in my garage)

    I'm not saying this is the best way, but I started this routine when I got my 2015 FJ09, and still do it with my 2020 Tracer

    I do the same, that’s why I was having issues when turning the key back on

    I’m now trying to place the switch back on before getting off the bike, or remember to turn it to on before turning the key

    I’m just getting used to it

    • Thumbsup 1
  2. Sw Motech provides crash guards brackets as mounting solutions, or amazon can have cheaper options.

    Last time I've ordered my Aero side cases, it took just little over a week to be delivered even if they were listed as backordered by 3-4 weeks from Germany.

    You Might be lucky just like I was 😅

    • Thumbsup 1
  3. I did read the owner's manual, I always do before posting anything online, It's common sense to read it. 😅

    However, the manual I found online is a bit different (I'm now wondering if the hard copy is like yours)

    It says, turn the key on and set the stop switch to run

    I always let the pump prime, and never start the engine before it's finished

    But what it doesn't make any sense is that, if I turn the key on, and wait a bit to set the stop switch to run, it does not prime. And this is where it's having a rough start.

    It seems odd that it doesn't prime whenever we set the switch to run. But only if it's already set prior to turn the key on. 

    And/or within that amount of time after turning the key on (which still not the correct way of doing it, it has to be set to run before turning the key)

    I obviously try to get used to it, but sometimes I just forget.

    Thanks anyway.

     

    start.JPG

  4. Hello everyone

    '19 Tracer 900 here. 

    I have a doubt on the fuel pump not priming (see below), I took a look to the owner's manual but couldn't find anything on this matter bc to turn on the bike says to turn the key on, set kill switch to run and then start (nothing wrong here)

    This is what doesn't add up

    I turn the key on and if the kill switch is set to stop and I wait like a few seconds (lets say the amount of time that the pump usually takes to prime) before turning the kill switch to run, the fuel pump will not prime! So I don't hear the sound at all.

    But, the fuel pump is only priming if the kill switch is already set to run prior to turn the key on

    it seems odd that the pump will only prime within that amount of time, and it seems like it's having a rough start.

    On my other bike, if I turn the key on, and wait even a few minutes, when I turn the kill switch to run, it will prime the pump no matter what.

    Do all the Tracers behave like this? or is it just mine?

    Thanks in advance

  5. 1 hour ago, maximNikenGT said:

    That looks so much better than stock. I didn't know you could get one flood one driving light configuration - did you specify that during  ordering?

    The kit comes with interchangeable lenses, you can either do both spot or flood. I chose whatever they call hybrid with mixed lenses.

    And yes it really looks much better, it gave me much more confidence in both night and day riding.

    Maybe would have been better the D2 instead of DM. But I'm still happy with these.

    • Thumbsup 1
  6. 41 minutes ago, maximNikenGT said:

    Is brown normally positive wire on motorcycles or is this specific to Yamaha?

    Electronically speaking, brown / white / red are positive, black/ blue /green are ground/negative 
    Then there are mixed colors (or numbered wires) to be distinguished 

    Also buy a service book, that will help you a lot with the wiring diagrams, other stuff as well

    • Thumbsup 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. 5 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

    Ok so you only have two cables to pick from for your taillight. For sure reason I've got three cables (brown, yellow and black) before they hit a connector where they change colors on me (black, yellow and blue) before going to the tail light. I already tried to tap yellow and that didn't work, so it must be brown. Will try that next for my live wire once my shipment of positaps arrive . Thank you!

    I would suggest you get a multimeter, it’s inexpensive and will definitely help you a lot in many situations 
    In this case you would have had already found the live wire
    However, most of the time brown would be the positive, so it must be it

  8. 13 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

    How many wires did you have going to your tail light, what colors were they, and which one did you tap into?  I'm trying to tap into a live tail light wire for my arboreal systems Aurora power distribution module but am unsure as to which wire is the live one. 

    D2044BFE-33F1-4ABE-AB97-B70B5AB4E64F.jpeg

    FE5E1FDB-C4AE-490B-BE60-6FBA30B1AD06.jpeg

    9E79243D-FAB2-4868-826A-F6A610118073.jpeg

    Ok on the Tracer I tapped on the tail light which is the connector with 2 cables

    black is ground as you can see, and tapped the white/red I have a different connection bc I have a aftermarket plate mount now

    where the OEM cable was brown to blue on the tail light

    so this is a live wire when turning the key on

    6EC187C8-4349-45F5-97D2-07DBE46CD50C.jpeg

    922AAC14-95D1-4F2F-8043-81D2418F35B4.jpeg

    • Thanks 1
  9. 6 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

    How many wires did you have going to your tail light, what colors were they, and which one did you tap into?  I'm trying to tap into a live tail light wire for my arboreal systems Aurora power distribution module but am unsure as to which wire is the live one. 

    D2044BFE-33F1-4ABE-AB97-B70B5AB4E64F.jpeg

    FE5E1FDB-C4AE-490B-BE60-6FBA30B1AD06.jpeg

    9E79243D-FAB2-4868-826A-F6A610118073.jpeg

    I’ll get back to you once I get home later today
    Busy with a customer atm

  10. 2 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

    Looks great! Did you have the option to mount the lights on the outside of the forks instead of the inside? Not sure I can do an iside mount because of my front Niken suspension mechanism. Also did you wire  the lights directly to the battery or did you tap into the headlight wiring?

    Outside the forks wouldn’t be possible since the lights were hitting the fairing, maybe lowering the mounts it would have been possible, but it that case I needed the extension cables

    there is a fender mount option, but depends on the bike you might need the extension cables.

    with the single intensity relay I had to tap only in one cable (i.e. tag light).
    There are different ways of setting them up based on what you’re looking for.
    I’m buying another switch bc I want the aux lights to be controlled independently without tapping in the stock lights and control them with the stock light controls

    • Thumbsup 1
  11. 34 minutes ago, maximNikenGT said:

    Do you have a picture of what it looks like mounted on your forks as well as nighttime pictures of what the light throw pattern looks like with and without the D2s?

    I didn’t take pics during nighttime yet, but I can definitely do it
    I'm planning on buying the dual intensity relay and hi/low switch pretty soon

    here some pics of the lights and mounts
    please consider that I have the DM 2.0 kit

    D2 2.0 kit is a step up

    InC6zv7.jpg?fb

    Imgur: The magic of the Internet

     

    • Thumbsup 1
  12. On 9/20/2020 at 11:33 PM, maximNikenGT said:

    Aftermarket driving / fog lights seem like a must have on the Niken GT since the throw even with high beam doesn't inspire me with a ton of confidence for early morning mountain rides where encounters with animals is not that uncommon. 

    I added Denali DM 2 Kit with the fork mounts on my tracer bc I had the same issue

    Dark in the area from the front wheel to where the beam started to hit the road

    it made a huge improvement, now the front road is well lit and it made the road ahead better illuminated, also on both sides

    you might want to consider the D2 if you want a wider and deeper illumination 

    • Thumbsup 1
  13. did the TB sync yesterday afternoon since the Carbtune was delivered earlier than expected.

    Also changed the front brake pads to the EBC HH, couldn't stand the abrupt initial bite of the stock pads. now I just need new levers, hate the stockers.

    Note on the TB sync:

    the master body, remained the master since it was pulling the least amount even when the other 2 screws were fully seated.

    I was able to get them close enough, but the Carbtune scale up by 2cmHg with 4 dash in the middle, and yes I was able to keep the bodies within 2 dashes, which corresponds to 10cmHg (or 10mmHg as per Yamaha service manual)

    Maybe it smoothed out a lil bit, but was barely noticeable. Also the it wasn't that bad at first, just leveled them a bit better.

    Now here comes a question based on some info I was able to gather on TB sync around the web...

    how true is to sync them at 5k rpm, to reduce vibrations when cruising? I know the service manual states to sync at idle, but anybody ever tried to sync at higher rpm?

  14. After my recent trip to Dallas, TX, I got back home with 4000miles on the clock

    Today did the oil and filter change, tried Maxima synthetic 10w40 and the engine seems a bit smoother (maybe due to the fact the oil still new), Yamaha OEM filter.

    In the next few days I'll do the TB Sync once the Carbtune Pro 4 is delivered, hopefully I can get rid of some vibrations. Also the engine feels like when sitting at idle is kinda knocking/pinging a lil bit.

    • Like 1
  15. 36 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

    Exactly the same for me.  I’ve been wearing the Duluth Trading long boxer briefs as part of my standard riding apparel for a couple of years now.   I haven’t found anything else that works better, especially in the hot Texas summers.

    @MrFritz86 - Here’s the online product link.   FYI:  There’s a Duluth Trading retail store in Arlington, which is just a short distance from Coppell.  

    Duluth Trading long boxer briefs

     

    I’m actually On my way to through Denton to NTK and just found a Duluth store there, imma stop by and check it out 

    thanks a lot guys for the input 

    • Thumbsup 1
  16. 10 minutes ago, keithu said:

    I recently bought some wicking underwear from Duluth Trading Company and they worked great on my 4000 mile trip. I got the long boxer briefs so the seams at the ends of the legs were well away from where I sit. Wicking moisture away has a huge effect on comfort. 

    I've tried padded bicycle shorts in the past but I think these worked better.

    Thanks for the info

    do you have a link to the product?

  17. 15 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

    Welcome to Texas, @MrFritz86!   We’re glad you’re here... unless you’re from California or Detroit, which we have to evaluate on a case-by-case basis.  :)  

    I put a Sargent seat on my FJ, and it was a big improvement from the stock upholstered plank that passed for a seat.   My longest day on the Sargent has only been about 450 miles, but it was very tolerable up to that point.   It’s not a full custom fitted seat, but for off-the-rack the Sargent seems to work well.  

    Thanks for greeting me, I quite spend bit some time throughout the year here in Coppell when visiting my dad
    Living in Nashville, we were mostly using stand by flight tickets, but with Covid and the new bike, I started this touring experience and I think I’m gonna love it
    even more now that you told me the huge improvement that was the Sargent compared to the plank stocker (hey nothing wrong with it since its much more comfy compared my naked stocker 😅)

    Where are you located?


  18. Today I rode from Nashville, TN to Coppell, TX
    12 hours riding counting all the stops for stretching, snacks, fueling and lunch
    With the car it took me exactly 10 hours last month
    Not bad considering that my butt was completely dead after 6hours of agony, the rest of the ride was completely numb when sitting, hurting really bad when stretching a bit
    Recently bought some padded undershorts and tried to avoid any kind of seams to make my life easier, still my skinny butt is in pain
    Last night I’ve ordered the Sargent seat (rebate for Labor Day weekend), and hopefully I can stretch my rides to a full tank, which is around 210miles and around 3 hours
    today I had to stop every hour otherwise I couldn’t make it

    also to my surprise, the Puig touring screen is garbage, buffeting above the helmet is atrocious, luckily I’ve tried it on Wednesday for a couple of hours on the highway, and after that I’ve tried the Yamaha stock screen and it is much better. I can live with (stock screen) taking pretty much a full blast without having that atrocious buffeting. I think (Puig Tour) it fits better shorter people, bc when bending my back to lower the helmet height below the top section of the Screen the buffeting was gone and it was super quite, but being 5’10” I can’t ride bending my back. I don’t wanna spend $130 to add the add on top screen and maybe it won’t even fix the buffeting

    added some FJR pegs and it dampened the vibrations a lot, very useful on longer rides 

    also added the Givi splash guard, the SW Motech Evo Engage and the tailbag which was already in use on my other bike so it’s good that I can exchange the bags in between my bikes

    fuel economy is not bad, rode 172 miles and filled up with 3.7 , so yeah 210 miles for a full tank. Today the fuel average was around 46 considering the spirited ride 😅

    AEE40784-29F9-4082-8D86-00C729530A49.jpeg

    • Thumbsup 4
    • Like 2
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