Rdecae81

it has been a while since this happened. but i wanted to note the great customer service from OBDLink MX+ my unit stopped working, I contacted support, and they sent me a replacement. Replacement came in and connected right up and cleared my code. (let battery die, so I got low voltage code) great customer service.

the local dealer did a great job. all fixed turned out to be a bolt (unfortunately not identified where it came from) fell into the cable linkage and jammed it wide open. Just a one in a million chance that a loose bolt would fall right as I was at full throttle. they removed the bolt and bike is running awesome. Kudos to Mountain motor sports Lawrenceville, GA

based on a lot of responses here, I may have missed the opportunity to learn how the cable system works in the throttle housing. However, because the Yamaha OEM replacement schedule for these cables is (I think) 30K miles (I only have 22K) I decided to involve my dealer. We will see.

good point on the lubrication, my bike has 22K miles and never have lubed the cables. If it turns out to just be a bad cable, then Yes I may lube them once a year when I do my winter maintenance. for right now, I could take it apart and I might "fix" the issue, but I might also miss something, and for this I prefer (hopefully) a professional check it out.

I do not care what the answer is, I just care that Yamaha knows of the issue IF it is not a simple cable problem. For all we know, this has happened a few times, and Yamaha wants to know if/when it has happened. I have worked for a lot of companies in my career and all companies want to know if there is a problem. Again, at this point it could just be a worn out cable. But maybe others have reported the same information, and Yamaha might change their maintenance from 30K to 20k for cables. Who knows, but if manufacturers do not get valid information, then constant improvement is stymied. Just my opinion.

NO changes to the bars. i.e. not raised or rotated etc. bike is basically 100% stock My guess is it is cable related, but it could be the connection at the TPS junction. I would be comfortable with fixing it on my own, but to have this happen, I want it documented to Yamaha. I am writing an email to Yamaha USA documenting what happened and what "dealership" the bike is at.

the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position. And yes when you hit the start button, the engine starts and immediately goes to 12k RPM and would (if I did not hit the kill switch) stay at 12k RPM's

so yes the GT has OEM factory heated grips. Cannot tell if the check engine light is on, because as soon as you hit the start button the engine kicks in to 12k RPM and I hit the kill switch immediately. So not enough time to see CEL icon. NO the throttle does not return. it is locked "fully on"

bummer mine is a 2019 900GT

if that is correct that would be awesome that it is a know issue and a fix at the root cause level until now this bike has never given me an issue. I upgraded the OEM suspension to RacTec front and rear, but other than that upgrade it is stock, and I really like this bike. So right now I have lost confidence, and would like a true fix by the shop.

thanks I was not sure of the exact set up. Any chance it is just a ECU error? and a reset is all that will be needed? It feels mechanical i.e. a cable issue to the TPS sensor. but I now have a code reader so I will hook it up.

I forgot to ask, I have not checked yet, is the 2019 Trace GT 900 fly by wire, or just standard cable throttle?

ok so no I did not ride the bike home 🙂 Luckily our group of riders has a car enthusiast who comes with us. Very good driver anyway put my tank bag, tail bag and helmet in his car, I got into passenger seat and he took me home. I then got my truck and trailer and went and picked the bike up. thanks for the link to the thread, I will follow up with my dealer on tuesday.

2019 Tracer GT 900 22,000 miles so I was riding on the highway, I pass a car and truck in third gear and pin the throttle to get around them. The throttle does not back off, my throttle/engine is pinned to max revs. luckily, I was in third gear, so just spend up REAL fast but no cars in my lane. I see a pull off, I hit the kill switch and coast into the pull off. I can tell the throttle is pinned, seems like the issue is at the throttle body, not at the handlebar. Anyone experience this? Suggestions?

yea not the case this time, I removed the tires, I changed the tires, and I installed the tires, all by myself. So I have no idea what I did wrong, but I only have myself to blame. but I do think if my lift was working, the problem would not have occurred.

actually I bought my NoMar classic in 2006. I also have a balancer. I have all the tools to do the job correctly. I have probably now changed close to 500 tires in my last 20 years of tire changing. I also started out with a harbor freight tire changer 🙂 and like I said, I have a lift it was just in for maintenance, so that was the variable.

I have been changing my own tires for 20+ years. Never had a ring or sensor damage. I am just guessing I messed up somehow. But honestly cannot remember anything going unusual in this tire change. But lesson learned, no matter how long I have been doing something, do not get complacent. And again, I did this tire change on the floor of my garage. So I am guessing that was the variable. Once I had my lift working, the rear tire removal, ring swapped out and rear tire installed it was a smooth process.

Yes I always remove the sensor from the bike and zip tie it safely somewhere. I never leave the sensor attached during a tire change. Hence why I really started looking elsewhere, I just did not think the sensor was the issue, despite what the code was showing. so as noted first time doing a rear tire change on the garage floor in around 20 years. I am assuming I did not align it correctly, and I bent it. But to be honest it is pretty stiff metal. But the real answer is, I do not know for sure. As noted I now have my lift working (better than it has for past 5 years) and I could lift it to eye level and easily line everything up for the rear wheel install. Plus my lift is on my back cement porch area, and it is bright sunlight today vrs the garage lighting, so today it all worked perfectly, and I am just going with human error on the install two weeks ago.

ok so the final solution was actually pretty simple. As all of you noted, and the error code reader shown, our guess was a sensor. But I had noted I have changed tires for 25 years and really, I am very careful with the sensors. so, one item I forgot to mention in addition to having my own tire changer I have a lift. BUT for this tire change, my lift (20 years old) was getting a lift pump rebuild by a friend of mine, new gaskets, seals, oil etc. so, for the first time in 20 years I had to do a tire change on the centerstand on my garage floor. Well, someone once said, "when the probable is ruled out, the improbable is the answer" So I started looking at other options besides the sensor. my friend had the pump all fixed up; we installed it on the lift put the Tracer on the lift. Once I had the bike on the lift out in the daylight, at eye level, it took less than 5 minutes to see that the rear senser Ring (not the sensor) but the metal ring was damaged. Pretty severally. so Partzilla to the rescue and new ring arrived, I had the rear wheel off, the ring swapped out, and the rear wheel reinstalled. Took the bike for a test ride, NO error codes, ABS kicks in as usual, and Cruise control worked just fine. so, all is good, and it was a simple 30-minute fix. so if you have an error code PD-0500 sensor A, just remember that can mean the actual sensor, OR it can mean the metal sensor ring. Check both.

so took the bike out hit rear brake hard, NO abs. and ABS light is on. came home and hooked up the scanner, NO error codes. Interesting. so swapping out the sensor with a new one. looks like the tank has to come off, then maybe air box, we will see.

so I did as suggested above removed the sensor and installed by hand lined up bracket correctly hooked up OBD and cleared the codes took the bike for a spin only the ABS light came on so I came back home and hooked up the OBD again and it shows NO error codes Interesting. I am going to go for another ride and see if the ABS light is really on. maybe the sun was just reflecting. Plus I have a nice large clean parking lot that I can go to and kick in the rear brake to see if the ABS activates. I will let you know.

Yes temp is 90-91 heat index is 93-96

And to be honest, it is so hot I am not riding right now. This could not have happened at a better time. Bike is sitting in the garage and is just fine. So long as I get this figured out by this weekend I will be good. We have a heat wave I think for the next 2-3 weeks with very little relief. So this issue is not a big problem right now.

well, I have already purchased a new front sensor. I have no issue swapping it out, pretty easy. But for now, I have removed the current front sensor and as noted above I hand seated it into the fork tube hole. I then made sure my bracket looked like the one in the pricture. I have cleared all the codes. My menu is working, so I know the code clearing worked. I will take it for a spin tonight once the sun goes down, and it cools off just a little and see if I get the codes again. I have a large parking lot close by, I can go there and hit the rear brake to engage the ABS and test that as well. I will report back what is the situation.

ok so my install looks just like yours.