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Tracer 9 '21-onwards. Handlebar Riser options with OEM Wiring, brakeline & Clutchcable lengths


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Having T-rex syndrom with long upper body and short arms every bike I own needs to bring the bars closer.

The Tracer is no different. I could not really find any pictures or how to's about this topic so I thought I'd share for anybody trying a similar action.

To start with the conclusion: With a fairly simple reroute of OEM wiring/cabling you can get away with barbacks from SW motech with increased height of 30mm and offset of 22 mm backwards. I would imagine that 25 mm normal risers for height are equally possible. Maybe even 30mm (but you need to verify this)

Disclaimer: use common sense and check for yourself if the remaining slack is acceptable in your case. Doing this is on your own risk!

Plan of attack:

  1. Make pictures of your setup, if you ever want to return to stock that's always good to have
  2. Protect your tank with a towel or rags etc. Your handlebar needs to rest there while you install risers.
  3. Cut cableties, release/relocate rubberbands and remove brakeline bracket from right forkleg and wrap in a cloth
  4. Move cables and lines to indicated positions
  5. remove bolts from original risers.
  6. Place handlebar on tank and mount risers in place.
  7. re-mount handlebar and torque according to riser spec or service manual spec. 
  8. Rotate handlebars to full lock to see if slack is acceptable. (I found clutch to be operated slightly at full right lock, therfore next step)
  9. Remove handguard connection to clutch lever assembly to remove cable from clutchlever and reroute the cable from OEM position past the triple tree, to before the triple tree.
  10. Re-assemble clutchlever cable and assembly
  11.  re-check slack on all cables
  12. If you are satisfied with the result, unwrap the brakeline bracket and remove it from the brakeline. Either remove brakeline from reservoir and slide bracket out (beware of brake fluid leakage and possible venting and use of new crush washers) or (as I did) boltcut/saw/anglegrind the bracket so you can open it up and remove from the brakeline. If you would need to return to stock depending on where you separate it, it should be fairly easy to restore (or buy new bracket). Make sure to protect everything when working with boltcutter/saw/anglegrinder on the bike.
  13. Done!

 Now for some pictures:

Original OEM setup:


  • Cut cabletie 1 release or cut cableholder on bracket 1A and remove or loosen all rubber bands holding cables.
  • Move cables 2 to the left.
  • Remove bracket 3, and pull it up to the brake reservoir and tie it wrapped in a cloth
  • Move over brakeline 4 the the inside of the forkleg.
  • Cut Cabletie 5 and 6. Remove or cut cableholder 7 on clutchcable and relocate clutch cable 8 (when disconnected from lever) pulling it under the tripletree and pulling it back up before the triple tree.



  • Brakeline 4 is relocated to the inside of the forkleg and sits where the cables were, the cables are moved to the left to accomodate the brakeline.
  • Re distribute the rubber bands.  

On full lock left the cables and brakeline are not pinched by the plastic "Nose" that comes down from between the 2 screens.


On the left side it looks like this:


  • Clutch cable 8 is relocated from it's original plastic cable holder (I put it back not to loose it should I ever need to go back to stock) to before the triple tree and cam move freely and without engaging during lock to lock.

 BEWARE: If you rotate the handlebars themselves too far back/downwards the slack of all cables and lines is less!! Check if all is still acceptable before you start riding.  

For me this mod made a huge difference in comfort.

If you want wider bars or even more rise, consider a brake line extension (link) or more extreme would require a complete new set of brakelines.

Edited by SVincent
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