SVincent

Thanks Clegg😉👍. You can't help it that I'm halfway across the globe from where you are. And loopholes only go sofar. We could get packages in without customs fees untill they decided to stop the cheap import of Chinese goods and now there is no minimal threshold anymore under which you could avoid the fee. Anywhow I might try the washer option for proof of concept and if it works order one anyway... Or maybe I can make it a combined shipment from more dutch T9 forum members. I presume that there is no option of having it printed somewhere else without the risk of losing your interlecutal property/design? Who would have thought 25 years back that we would have 3d printer capabilities which enable us to create great distances between the creator and manufacturing, but the same progressions would limit the use of this because stealing designs and not respecting IP has lowered in the same pace. Ah well, reality is beautiful I guess, we need to try and make it better in our own circle of influence and accept that it ends there and we cannot change the rest of the world.

Contemplating on getting the this kit aswell, but being in "a land far far away" does make the kit a bit on the pricey side for me. Adds another 20 dollar for the shipping and possibly another 25 for customs procedures..... I would say it might be worth it if I knew it did the job for me, so from a practical point of view would temporarily putting 6/8mm washers in the location of the shim bracket and leaving the rubber grommets with the centered hole in place (lifting the tank, and looking like shit) still offer the opportunity to test this for the slope correction?

Mine were: SKU: B5U-829A0-10-00 But this is an EU part... So not sure if this helps

Sw motech barbacks 28mm bar diameter. Height 30mm backwards 22mm Bar back for Ø 28 mm handlebar H = 30 mm. Displacement by 22 mm. Aluminum. Black. Art. No.: LEH.00.039.23100/B

Hi Ron, Sorry to hear you are also considering other options, that would mean the Cosmo isn't what you hoped it would be? To get you started I have made a quick sketch on how it looks like under the plastic cover that sits directly behind the clocks. There are some internal obstacles in the way under the plastic that you need to avoid to make it sit flush. Unfortunately I don't have any sizing for you 😔 It took a lot of on and off and filing to get it right😅. And there isn't a lot of room around there to work with. (cant count the number of times I dropped nuts and bolts through the fairings). Also the screen adjustment just clears the bolt and nut that is on the screen side of the bracket. It's not y much though. Also interested to see what your shorter screen adjustment would lever would impact on the design (always welcome come over and try to swap them over to see if it still works)

The dash is different on the 2019, but maybe the attachment for the windscreen is similar which might enable to fabricate a similar mount if you would like to: https://www.tracer900.net/topic/11955-diy-ram-ball-mount-bracket-between-the-eyes-tracer-9-21-onwards-tested-on-23/

Hi All, I have made a DIY bracket for my tracer 9 '23 based on an M8 thread RAM mount ball mounted between the "eyes" of the dash. It's made of 2 aluminum L-profiles of 5x5cm (approx 2"x2") which clamp to the metal base of the screen mount (not the sliding part). I wrapped it in some carbon sticker I had lying around, might take it off at some point to give it a spray-paint instead. The Ram mount attaches to my TomTom baseplate. Or my modified SP connect anti vibration phone mount. With the phone in portrait mode it matches the width of the screen height adjustment lever and keeps the green indicator arrows in sight (something i tend to forget sometimes and most of the satnav/phone mounts obstructs some of the dash). It ticks my boxes: Central mount Not too low down to enable keeping the eyes on the road Screen adjustment lever can still be used Can also be used with the short puig screen Solid connection to the bike I'm happy with it! I do have the longer/higher screen adjustment lever compared to older models, so if you would consider doing the same take this into account.

Mounted the heed crashbars, must say I'm impressed by the quality and the fit and don't look half bad on the black bike. Hope I will never have to test them. Does require to remove them if you need to access the front panel behind it. They were about 2,5 kg each side so 5 in total. Any questions let me know😉👍

Just to update. With the heed crashbars (or other upper part ones?) you need to remove oor loosen them in order to remove the front side panels. As they mount on the engine mountinbolts you need to remove or loosen them and remove the panel. And put them back or at least the bolts before you do the same on the other side. Did need to look very closely for the heated grips connectors but I'm glad I had the video in earlier post to guide me. Both plugs were taped to a loom. (but 2 different ones) one is grey and buried deep, the other is black and because they are taped with black tape can be harder to spot. After that the grip install was easy easy and is working great (for now while still not very cold)

As mentioned above, a little how to on the risor options without brake/clutch or wiring extensions: https://www.tracer900.net/topic/11945-tracer-9-21-onwards-handlebar-riser-options-with-oem-wiring-brakeline-clutchcable-lengths/#comment-156841

Having T-rex syndrom with long upper body and short arms every bike I own needs to bring the bars closer. The Tracer is no different. I could not really find any pictures or how to's about this topic so I thought I'd share for anybody trying a similar action. To start with the conclusion: With a fairly simple reroute of OEM wiring/cabling you can get away with barbacks from SW motech with increased height of 30mm and offset of 22 mm backwards. I would imagine that 25 mm normal risers for height are equally possible. Maybe even 30mm (but you need to verify this) Disclaimer: use common sense and check for yourself if the remaining slack is acceptable in your case. Doing this is on your own risk! Plan of attack: Make pictures of your setup, if you ever want to return to stock that's always good to have Protect your tank with a towel or rags etc. Your handlebar needs to rest there while you install risers. Cut cableties, release/relocate rubberbands and remove brakeline bracket from right forkleg and wrap in a cloth Move cables and lines to indicated positions remove bolts from original risers. Place handlebar on tank and mount risers in place. re-mount handlebar and torque according to riser spec or service manual spec. Rotate handlebars to full lock to see if slack is acceptable. (I found clutch to be operated slightly at full right lock, therfore next step) Remove handguard connection to clutch lever assembly to remove cable from clutchlever and reroute the cable from OEM position past the triple tree, to before the triple tree. Re-assemble clutchlever cable and assembly re-check slack on all cables If you are satisfied with the result, unwrap the brakeline bracket and remove it from the brakeline. Either remove brakeline from reservoir and slide bracket out (beware of brake fluid leakage and possible venting and use of new crush washers) or (as I did) boltcut/saw/anglegrind the bracket so you can open it up and remove from the brakeline. If you would need to return to stock depending on where you separate it, it should be fairly easy to restore (or buy new bracket). Make sure to protect everything when working with boltcutter/saw/anglegrinder on the bike. Done! Now for some pictures: Original OEM setup: Cut cabletie 1 release or cut cableholder on bracket 1A and remove or loosen all rubber bands holding cables. Move cables 2 to the left. Remove bracket 3, and pull it up to the brake reservoir and tie it wrapped in a cloth Move over brakeline 4 the the inside of the forkleg. Cut Cabletie 5 and 6. Remove or cut cableholder 7 on clutchcable and relocate clutch cable 8 (when disconnected from lever) pulling it under the tripletree and pulling it back up before the triple tree. Result: Brakeline 4 is relocated to the inside of the forkleg and sits where the cables were, the cables are moved to the left to accomodate the brakeline. Re distribute the rubber bands. On full lock left the cables and brakeline are not pinched by the plastic "Nose" that comes down from between the 2 screens. On the left side it looks like this: Clutch cable 8 is relocated from it's original plastic cable holder (I put it back not to loose it should I ever need to go back to stock) to before the triple tree and cam move freely and without engaging during lock to lock. BEWARE: If you rotate the handlebars themselves too far back/downwards the slack of all cables and lines is less!! Check if all is still acceptable before you start riding. For me this mod made a huge difference in comfort. If you want wider bars or even more rise, consider a brake line extension (link) or more extreme would require a complete new set of brakelines.

After adding 1400 km last weekend in Germany I finally have some pictures worth showing: Here she is: Hot setup with the smaller Puig screen Normal setup with the standard windshield and the MRA X-Creen Small weekend bag on the back until we find a different solution (still hate the "kick your leg up between the bag end the tank" to get in the seat move). The black HEED crash bars, kneepads for the tank and heel protectors SW motech barbacks, handlebar bag and made a custom bracket for the windshield mount from Aluminum supporting a RAM mount that can carry either my TomTom or my phone via SP connect. Managed to get quite a few tools, ty raps, tyre plug tools and small other bits and bobs under the main seat for some roadside repairs that I would hopefully never need to use. The engine is fully broken in and i could unleash its true potential. It's amazing! still need to work on my footwork. The back brake was closer to locking up a bit when attacking a slow speed corners from decent speed, will require some more front braking, and for this I just might want some extra lever te grip onto. I would have loved if the lever could be adjusted 1 or 2 steps closer to the handlebar. (hope some aftermarket solutions might enable this and not stay within the same range.... As for the other foot, had some false neutrals (need to put some more resolution in the shift) and while blasting from a corner didn't release my toes back properly to quickshift from 2nd to 3rd (as from 1st to 2nd is so quick and when revving up you get to 2nd to 3rd in a heartbeat, but need to disengage the shifter enough to be able to shift up again). But i'm sure this will grow on me quick enough. I'll put some pictures up from the crashbar, barback + cable rerouting and satnav bracket Mods in a separate topic at some point... Too bad we are entering autumn here, so sunny hotter days are behind us. Let's hope we can manage some nice dry weather in the next few weeks before PMS kicks in.

Very true, its time for some pictures and updates..... The pictures will have to wait for now but I'm sure I'll be able to snap some on my next trip. Mods sofar: -Mra xcreen spoiler on the standard screen -Puig shorty for them hot days -qc3 usb in cigarette lighter (used tyraps and old bycicle tyre to secure and waterproof.) - tomtom powerlead into spare power output under the fairing (had wrong 3pin sumimoto, but could use the pins to fill the dummy 2 pin connectors that were on the bike) - sw motech barback risers. Had to modify the brakeline and clutch to accomodate. But is working great! (t-rex syndrome cured) -switched red brakelight for mt09 transperant version. - tank side protectors - shinguard stickers (first thing that loses paint.) Projects ongoing - fit heed crashbars - store emergency tools tyre plug/first aid kit etc.(looking for an option to use empty space where the cases, that I don't have, mount) - make a mount that is centered for my sarnav or phone above the clocks. - heated grips somewhere along the line. - givi or swmotech rear rack. Or softbag supports.. Not sure yet. To be continued........

They look great, and nice price too. But do you think it is made in France? 🤔 Not opposed to Asian manufacturing by the way. As long as there is thurough quality control. Had some vtrec levers from motea on my versys and they did fine. But they did come with ABE type approval from Germany. Not the run off the mill aliexpress stuff

Mines a 2023, but I guess that 2021 onward is similar. Does this also cover the mt09/sp years?