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Clutch Cables and Handlebar Risers


phpaul

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I read the Rox Risers thread and a couple of others having to do with moving the handlebars.
 
Based on what I read, I installed 2" risers, the longer R1 clutch cable and the Bolt clutch arm.  
 
Sufferin' Teapot!  The clutch, which was entirely acceptable in it's stock form is now nothing short of HORRIBLE.  We're talking Mack Truck here.  
 
I've re-routed to get the gentlest curves I can manage, moved the clutch arm both ways a couple of splines and it's NASTY.
 
Just got back from a 130 mile ride through two of my favorite twisties routes, and my left wrist is pumped up like Arnold Schwartzenegger!
 
I haven't lubed the new cable so that may be part of it, and I haven't gone back to the stock clutch arm yet to try that but SOMETHING has to be done.  The bike is dang near unrideable.
 
The handlebar position is perfect for the the new Corbin seat so I really, REALLY want to keep the risers, but I'm up for anything else that will lighten this monster up!
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DOH! >:D
 
Belay my last.  Lubed the cable good, made all the difference in the world.  Also moved the slack from the engine end to the handlebar end so I could rotate the clutch arm one spline and get a straighter pull on it.
 
All is well.
 
I'm an idiot...
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cc1.jpg
 
cc2.jpg
 
cc3.jpg
 
I taped the top of the new cable to the bottom of the old cable and used the old cable as a "fish tape" to pull the new cable up through in the original path.
 
Once it came out through the routing clip above the radiator, I made as large a bend as I could, angled it towards the steering neck in front of the forks and then brought it back around to the clutch lever.  Still tighter than I'd like but gives the best bends possible under the circumstances.
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Thanks... Looks like your slack is all taken up. I either have too little or too much with the 1" rise. Gotta rethink things a bit.
I didn't think to take a picture, but on the clutch end the adjuster is at full travel.  The "outside" nut (nearest the clutch arm) is threaded on just enough to hold and as much as possible of the threaded metal tip is toward the center of the bike. 
Hope that makes sense.
 
The idea is to move as much of the cable housing as I can up behind the headlight to make larger bends.  There's enough adjustment on the clutch lever end to take it up.
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